|
|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
Technique & Training:
Re: [pedro_sandchez] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle:
Edit Log
|
|
climb4free
Aug 20, 2012, 2:36 PM
Views: 3128
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
Not sure if this will be right on track, but here is my experience:
First note: I have utilized the RockProdigy article in combination with SCC. I have also tweaked it considerably to fit my life.
I only do one dedicated cycle in the winter. Then during the remaining 3 quarters, I do modified cycles that balance out the ability to have decent performance days throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Because of my family schedule, I'd rather have a more gradual growth than steep peaks and valleys.
Therefore, the major rest cycles are positioned at the end of the fall season for 10-14 days and at the end of my winter training cycle for 14 days. In them I do zero climbing. A little work on the antagonist muscle groups and a little cardio, but mainly REST & RECUPERATION. I let my body heal as completely as possible.
When I ease into my winter cycle, I start with a couple weeks of just ARC and Technique workouts.
My "in season" workouts are a rotation similar to below(replace HYP with POW or 4x4, etc.):
Week 1 = OFF - HYP - OFF - Technique - OFF - HYP - OFF
Week 2 = Technique - OFF - HYP - ARC - OFF - OFF - "Send"
I then have a mid summer One WEEK Rest.
Results(may or may not be impressive): Onsight increased by 1 full # grade & Redpoint increased by 3 letter grades. My 3 hardest redpoints have only taken one working burn and then send, so I think I could redpoint harder if I tried.
Edited to add: Also, I have not had a single finger injury. My only injury was a rib head displaced from playing pick-up football.
Hope this helps, otherwise ignore 
(This post was edited by climb4free on Aug 20, 2012, 2:48 PM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by climb4free
() on Aug 20, 2012, 2:48 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
