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Re: [acorneau] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch:
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daveat
Sep 9, 2013, 3:19 PM
Views: 8941
Registered: Sep 8, 2013
Posts: 4
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 Kind of new to the forums, semi new to climbing and brand new to Trad... so maybe i'm making some stupid thoughts here.. BUT,
This is an interesting point to me.
rgold wrote: There is an issue with clipping separated strands to a single piece that is not the top piece that is worth mentioning: when loaded, this configuration will lift the draw. If the piece (nut or cam) is in a vertical crack, then it is going to move and could be extracted. If the piece is critical to a back-up role, then this would be reason enough to either not to join to strands there or else make sure the piece is secured from lifting. The lifting action of separated strands could potentially zipper a whole line of doubly-clipped pieces in this fashion if the lowest double-clipped pieces isn't held down.
As that would apply, the piece on the left could/would likely shoot out of its placement.
acorneau wrote: rocknice2 wrote: I also ask if he could do a non official test. Jim Ewing wrote: I’ve been trying to imagine some sort of test set up for this issue in years past but it never seems to become a very high priority, unfortunately. If you have some ideas feel free to share them and I’ll try to determine if it is possible to set up a test. I could imagine a test jig that would be easy to incorporate into a standard drop test tower, something like this...  This should allow the two ropes to stretch at differing speeds/amounts. Any wear would be witnessed where the ropes pass through the top combining "biner".
(This post was edited by daveat on Sep 9, 2013, 3:23 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by daveat
() on Sep 9, 2013, 3:20 PM
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Post edited by daveat
() on Sep 9, 2013, 3:23 PM
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