Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [rocknice2] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch: Edit Log




Partner cracklover


Sep 10, 2013, 4:05 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [rocknice2] Use 2 Ropes as Twin and Double in Same Pitch
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rgold wrote:
There is an issue with clipping separated strands to a single piece that is not the top piece that is worth mentioning: when loaded, this configuration will lift the draw. If the piece (nut or cam) is in a vertical crack, then it is going to move and could be extracted. If the piece is critical to a back-up role, then this would be reason enough to either not to join to strands there or else make sure the piece is secured from lifting. The lifting action of separated strands could potentially zipper a whole line of doubly-clipped pieces in this fashion if the lowest double-clipped pieces isn't held down.

Just a point of clarification: I think you meant to say the *highest*, not the lowest doubly-clipped piece. As I'm envisioning it, in this scenario (unlike the normal zippering scenario) the bottom of a string of doubly-clipped pieces will actually be pulled *down*, while the top ones will be pulled up. And then, if the top one rips, the upward force will go to the next one down, etc.

Here's a quick pic to explain:



GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Sep 10, 2013, 4:05 PM)
Attachments: double-twin.JPG (39.8 KB)



Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Sep 10, 2013, 4:05 PM


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