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arjunrattan
Aug 30, 2005, 4:15 AM
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Cause I do!!!! call me a n00b or gymrat or watever, but i honestly love sport climbing inside, cause I find the route patterns and degree of overhang etc etc are pretty varied as compared to outside.( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?). I guess I just love climbbing upside down! :roll: :roll: Oh i'm leading about 5.10d - 11b.
As such I sometimes enjoy sport climbing at the gym more than outside, but bouldering is def wayyyyy more fun outside.
I suppose i'm going to get majorly thrashed by the hardass outdoorsmen(and women, but mostly men) on the site, but watever.
Anyone else feel the same way?? :roll: feel differently?? :roll:
Cheers,
- Arjun
p.s. my outdoor climbing has been mostly on the niagra escarpment in ontario. 5.10s mostly. Maybe thats a factor?? :?: :?:
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fear
Aug 30, 2005, 4:27 AM
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In reply to: .......( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?). ....... .........
None... None at all. :roll:
-Fear....
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collegekid
Aug 30, 2005, 4:30 AM
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i do...especially after a morning of working various sized cracks at Mt. Woodson.
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arjunrattan
Aug 30, 2005, 4:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: .......( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?). ....... ......... None... None at all. :roll: -Fear....
exactly my point!
I guess this was just a bit of a rant after i read this recently:
In reply to: Rock Oasis can get very hot in summer time. Grades at Joerockheads are tougher then at RO but people that work at JR and the whole gym SUCKS. CLIMB OUTDOORS. Good Luck NOOB :D |
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rockrat511
Aug 30, 2005, 4:54 AM
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Come climb outside with me and I'll show you horizontal roofs that go at 5.8 and up. You just didn't look hard enough. Afraid of a little hike?
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kachoong
Aug 30, 2005, 4:55 AM
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In reply to: I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find? I guess I just love climbbing upside down! :roll: :roll:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=29619
In reply to: Oh i'm leading about 5.10d - 11b.
In reply to: p.s. my outdoor climbing has been mostly on the niagra escarpment in ontario. 5.10s mostly. Maybe thats a factor?? :?: :?:
....btw... I do infact like to climb in the gym, but it's a way to keep fit and is only a part of my whole training regime.... outside is where it's at dude....
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philbox
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Aug 30, 2005, 4:58 AM
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HB can show you a 30 metre roof offwidth.
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philbox
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Aug 30, 2005, 4:59 AM
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philbox moved this thread from General to Indoor Gyms.
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firstmatetickles
Aug 30, 2005, 6:02 AM
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hey man, climbing indoors is cool. So is climbing out doors. It all really matters where you live and what kinda free time you have. If you can make it outdoors to a good spot that's awesome. I like the fact that you can do a lot of routes at a gym on a weekday when there's no way you could climb out doors with that amount of free time. It also really depends on the gym and the people who climb there. There's a lot of gyms I wouldn't waste my time at.
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neuroshock
Aug 30, 2005, 6:43 AM
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i say that climbing indoors can be fun, but outdoors is moreso.
In reply to: I find the route patterns and degree of overhang etc etc are pretty varied as compared to outside.( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?).
In reply to: I suppose i'm going to get majorly thrashed by the hardass outdoorsmen(and women, but mostly men) |
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elepita
Aug 30, 2005, 9:47 AM
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What is that about mostly man??? and what is that about not finding overhanging 10s?? you do need to travel more....I think your perspective would change. Come to Europe, I will show you some overhanging limestone routes which you will not even be able to start...and some lady climbers who could kick your gym a%$&. You were asking for it right? you got it!
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coldclimb
Aug 30, 2005, 9:52 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: .......( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?). ....... ......... None... None at all. :roll: -Fear....
Yeah, not much at all. Except competitions. Gyms just aren't worth the money for me, anymore.
Especially since I can climb aid year-round! :wink:
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damon99
Aug 30, 2005, 9:55 AM
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gyms are good for me, because it doesnt require any hike, besides that you make from you car to the gym.. yes yes, i feel lazy sometimes.. but yes - outdoor - most deffinately the best. fresh air, exposure.. ehh.. i want to go climb now!
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bigjonnyc
Aug 30, 2005, 11:17 AM
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From a quick search at RedRiverClimbing.com:
Route Wall Moves Length Year
Standing Ovation 5.10d *** (S) The Arena - CLOSED Overhanging jug haul 70
Heard It On NPR 5.10d *** (S) Joe Ponder Branch Hollow Overhanging jug haul 100 2004
Opening Act 5.10d *** (S) The Arena - CLOSED Overhanging jug haul 70 2003
Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky 5.10b *** (S) Lower Tantroft Branch Hollow Overhanging jug haul 60 2004
Barenjager 5.10d ** (S) Joe Ponder Branch Hollow Overhanging jug haul 40 2004
Annie The Annihilator 5.10c *** (S) Lower Tantroft Branch Hollow Overhanging jug haul 40 2004
Sunbeam 5.10d *** (S) Sunbeam Buttress Overhanging jug haul 65 2005
Out of the Dark 5.10c ** (S) Sunbeam Buttress Overhanging jug haul 65 2005
Loosen Up 5.10b ** (S) Lady Slipper - Global Village Overhanging jug haul 50 1992
Beta Spewer 5.10b ** (S) Joe Ponder Branch Hollow Overhanging face 20 2005
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azrockclimber
Aug 30, 2005, 11:24 AM
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no
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tradclimbinfool
Aug 30, 2005, 12:51 PM
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Do what you want, but I'd rather let my climbing ablility suffer than climb in a gym. Just bores the heck out of me.
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arjunrattan
Aug 30, 2005, 1:51 PM
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In reply to: What is that about mostly man??? and what is that about not finding overhanging 10s??
Oh believe me when I say that the mostly men thing...had nothing sexist to do with it. Its just that well...of the 12 or replies so far, theres a total of what 1 woman? Thats you! My point being that yea in my opinion theres alot more guys who are really serios about climbing than women. As such it would def be cool to have more women who could "kick my ass in climbing".
In reply to: you do need to travel more....I think your perspective would change. Come to Europe, I will show you some overhanging limestone routes which you will not even be able to start...
Your right, I DO need to travel more. Unforunately i'm studying full time in university in a place where the escarpment is the only source of outdoor climbing. I've climbed at a few crags on the escarpment and most of the routes were the usual vertical-moderately overhang slabs.
Erope..WOW! I wish...my friend is in spain on vacation right now..having a blast! But yea I'd def want to check out different climbing spots outside ontario. Maybe when I graduate.
In reply to: and some lady climbers who could kick your gym a%$&. You were asking for it right? you got it!
SOME??? I know LOTS...and they are are right there at my gym!!
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arjunrattan
Aug 30, 2005, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: Do what you want, but I'd rather let my climbing ablility suffer than climb in a gym. Just bores the heck out of me.
How I ask?? how can you not ENJOY climbing whether its inside or out??
Or maybe your just in it for the sense of achievement , seeing beatiful landscapes, the adventure etcc etc...everything but the actual movement of climbing??
Then again I climb only sport...trad doesnt appeal to me..YET..quite frankly trad kinda freaks me out..I got the jitters just seconding an eay trad climb! :? :?
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j_ung
Aug 30, 2005, 2:21 PM
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I know of several very steep 10s.
That said, I enjoy climbing in a gym quite a bit, but for slightly different reasons that I enjoy climbing outside. My preferences are for sport and trad, but I've logged a little (very little) time in aiders, on boulders and in snowy high places, too. I'm thankful for any time I get climbing. If it's inside, hey great. I'll make the best of it and have a swell time.
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kyote321
Aug 30, 2005, 2:50 PM
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yes, but i climb outdoors to stay motivated to train for the gym. and vice vera. sometimes it difficult to take the stategically placed plastic bits seriously.
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overlord
Aug 30, 2005, 2:52 PM
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i do. but i enjoy real rock even more.
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cracklover
Aug 30, 2005, 2:53 PM
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Sure, I like climbing in the gym.
I like climbing rocks whether they're big, little, fake, part of a building, whatever.
But if you think that the gym is more varied than outside, that simply speaks to the fact that you haven't seen much outside. Mind you - travelling for climbing *is* a lot harder than just driving to the local gym. But if variety turns you on (as it does me) than the effort is well worth it.
GO
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mother_sheep
Aug 30, 2005, 2:55 PM
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If the sun is shining and its over 40 degrees outside, I don't enjoy it. I go to the gym at lunch during the work week and in those cases I do like it. It gives me a chance to get a good workout and see some of my climbing buddies that I only see at the gym. Plus, it gives me the chance to climb harder in a very controled environment, even though I don't particularly relate gym climbing to outdoor climbing at all. But you feed the rat any way that you can, right?
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dingus
Aug 30, 2005, 3:01 PM
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If I were a painter I would want to be able to paint in many styles, using many techniques. I would most likely specialize in some forms, and shy away from others. But I would want to dabble in them all, take their measure and decide if they were for me.
I do not 'enjoy' gym climbing and that is a fact. That isn't to say I haven't had fun in gyms, I have. Its not to say I dislike gyms, I don't. And I don't think I have an overly antagonistic view of gym climbers. I simply prefer to climb outside. Why?
Cuz I'm a guy and I have blood in my veins and testerone in my balls goddamnit, yee hah!
You can bet half your ass that's part of it. Left cheek OR right!
But too, its more complicated. Tony Yaniro is famous for establishing the Grand Illusion on Sugarloaf in the late 70's, the worlds fiorst 13 if memory serves. Certainly America's anyway. Now old Tony is a controversial sort, but I don't want to get into that.
Tony was at the leading edge, and in fact may HAVE BEEN the actual leading edge that pushed us into our modern era of gym climbing. He built a crack machine to stimulate the Grand Illusion and he practiced like a madman on that thing. When he got to where he could do it on the machine without fail, he went out and sent the route.
Now of course he could have simply stayed on the crack machine and pulled some of the most legendary moves ever pumped by a human. Who would have cared???
I have also repeatedly hurt myself climbing in gyms. I don't like when my training time deep sixes my recreation time, that sucks BIG TIME.
Gyms are great for creating facsimilies of the real thing. But a fax is a fax, and that's a fact. Yes, you can create the perfect series of moves in the gym, at whatever grade you wish.
But outside? You gotta take what mother nature gives, (or take up the bosch and chisel). I really don't have the words to describe the incredible joy of discovering an area, a cliff, a route, envisioning how it might be climbed, and then going up and doing it.
Lots of routes will have bogus sections. Some of them will just plain suck. But when you do uncover a true gem, it seems very much like the diamond cutter... you have a rough stone (idea) of where the climb will lead. But you don't really begin to understand the true beauty of the stone (route) until you start cutting (climbing). The jewel of the route doesn't reveal herself until you are done.
In the gym, by contrast, you are clinging to clumps of lifeless carbon, arranged by someone else, making dance steps on a vertical floor.
But what do I know? Gyms are cool brough.
DMT
ps. The thing I dislike intensely about gyms is: they have RULES!
IN ROCK CLIMBING??? RULES??? I don't think so...
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cracklover
Aug 30, 2005, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: {plenty of good impassioned writing about climbing outside}
I concur, but Dingus, it's all for naught. The original poster already said he doesn't like trad climbing. !!!
I wouldn't hold that against him though.
As a climber, he's a wee babe. It's like saying mother's milk is the best - and solid food isn't really his thing. (And by solid food, he means the only food he's tasted - the pre-processed stuff that comes out of the little jars). Meanwhile, you're saying that filet minon is a wonderful thing.
Maybe as he gets into it, he'll still like milk the best, but maybe not. I sense that he's curious about what's out there, though - which is part of why he created this thread.
So good for you, Dingus, for painting a picture that may inspire, even if it's completely foreign for now.
GO
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renohandjams
Aug 30, 2005, 3:42 PM
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In reply to: Gyms just aren't worth the money for me, anymore. Especially since I can climb aid year-round! :wink:
Yeah, imagine how big your rack would be if you saved all of that money from the gym and just bought stuff, new rope.... nuts... cams...
gym climbing is better than no climbing, and I would love to go every night, but the money part sucks. UNR has an indoor gym for students, haven't climbed there much, but I think I need to since I am sick and tired of not climbing at all.
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angelaa
Aug 30, 2005, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: Then again I climb only sport...trad doesnt appeal to me..YET..quite frankly trad kinda freaks me out..I got the jitters just seconding an eay trad climb! :? :?
In reply to: My point being that yea in my opinion theres alot more guys who are really serios about climbing than women. As such it would def be cool to have more women who could "kick my ass in climbing".
there are PLENTY of TRAD WOMEN out there that can kick your sport climbin' a$$ and freak you out!!
and I bet I don't even have to climb 5.6 to do it! :P
So watch what you say about women not being as serious as men!
Surprised Mother_Sheep hasn't piped in yet. . . if she does, you're in trouble! She's got plenty of routes under her belt that'd give you more than the jitters :lol:
oh and just to stay on topic. . . I haven't climbed in the gym for almost a year now . . . and I am enjoying it !!! outside outside outside! 8^)
Angela
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matttracyg
Aug 30, 2005, 8:39 PM
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Not really.
Climbing in the gym seems to just invite finger injuries.
It's just a necessary evil to stay in shape when the crags are too far.
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angelaa
Aug 30, 2005, 8:39 PM
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I see Mother_Sheep piped in as I was typing up my last message!
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kyote321
Aug 30, 2005, 8:45 PM
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'Not really.
Climbing in the gym seems to just invite finger injuries.
It's just a necessary evil to stay in shape when the crags are too far. '
if you warm up correctly, climbing on plastic should increase your resistence to injuries.
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skinnyclimber
Aug 30, 2005, 9:19 PM
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In reply to: ...Lots of good stuff... DMT ps. The thing I dislike intensely about gyms is: they have RULES! IN ROCK CLIMBING??? RULES??? I don't think so...
Stupid rules.
Personally I have a good time on the plastic. Mostly though I like the fact that it allows me to climb after work on the weekdays. But don't get me wrong, I love love love the rock soooo much more. The gym is essentially for training for me... but fun training.
skinny
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: there are PLENTY of TRAD WOMEN out there that can kick your sport climbin' a$$ and freak you out!!
In reply to: and I bet I don't even have to climb 5.6 to do it! :P So watch what you say about women not being as serious as men!
In reply to: Surprised Mother_Sheep hasn't piped in yet. . . if she does, you're in trouble! She's got plenty of routes under her belt that'd give you more than the jitters :lol:
Also well..everybody is right! I do need to get out more. Its hard when your a poor full time UNI kid tho! I did manage to get in a decent amount of outdoor climbing this summer...which is my first serios outdoor climbing season! Most of it was in ontario - niagra escarment...
so heres the bottom line: I enjoy climbing both inside and outside. You'll have pretty much listed all the reasons why I love climbing outside. Heres some pro gym stuff:
- I can get in more routes and train harder inside...and I LOVE doing that..cause getting stronger and sending something I couldnt even hangdog a week ago..is seriosly wat climbing is to me at this point!
- I can concentrate more on improving my climbing and focus on improving my lead(sport) climbing skillz more inside cause the bolts arent too far apart adn such. I find outside specially on onsight attempts on climbs at or near my limit..i really get sketched out wen the last bolt is a way down..and tend to loose focus on the climbing at hand..
-Indoor climbing has made me more comfortable taking falls..to the degree that I honestly dont even worry about falling now(inside)...and I simply try and carry that mindset outside...and yes it really seems to have helped!
- Its social! :lol: Anytime time im super bored I just pop by the gym and theres some fun ppl out there!
So there!
Cheers..
- Arjun
PS. Sure i'm waiting to get done with my undergrad and head out to BC or something for my masters...but I want to be UUUBBER strong before I get there!
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Ohh but the ppl at the gym can be bullies at times! My buddy was leading the roof and he had his foot on the adjacent wall(off limits) for a microsecond.
The gym bully(attempting the adjacent .12d) whose watching like a hawk for a chance to crtisize goes "your judment is tainted...that wall is out..you may as well use the yello and grey holds as well(he was on a red hold route)"...and that guy works there...hes verrry competent and is like an insane climber..but hes arrogant at times....and that kinda taskes away the pleasure from the climbing experience.
I find outside I climb at my own pace etc etc....and theres noo bullies around! :wink: :P
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 31, 2005, 3:50 PM
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“So I’ve sort of let myself go…gained a few pounds here and there… Anyway, I finally broke down and decided to get a gym membership. I figure, I’ll either lose weight…or I’ll end up just paying a $55 a month ‘fat tax’…and that’s ok too.”
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mother_sheep
Aug 31, 2005, 3:51 PM
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In reply to: Surprised Mother_Sheep hasn't piped in yet. . . if she does, you're in trouble! She's got plenty of routes under her belt that'd give you more than the jitters Well watever trouble I supposedly made...loos like I GOT AWAY WITH IT THIS TIME!
Ohhh nooooo MISTER!!! You're in big, big trouble!!!!
hehe
Angela. .we need to climb next time you're here!
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 31, 2005, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: Ohh but the ppl at the gym can be bullies at times! My buddy was leading the roof and he had his foot on the adjacent wall(off limits) for a microsecond. The gym bully(attempting the adjacent .12d) whose watching like a hawk for a chance to crtisize goes "your judment is tainted...that wall is out..you may as well use the yello and grey holds as well(he was on a red hold route)"...and that guy works there...hes verrry competent and is like an insane climber..but hes arrogant at times....and that kinda taskes away the pleasure from the climbing experience.
A "gym bully"...?!?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
That's like an Orange County "Gangsta"!
Fucking hilarious!!
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angelaa
Aug 31, 2005, 3:57 PM
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In reply to: Angela. .we need to climb next time you're here!
now THERE'S trouble!!!
we've never even met . . . and we know we'd be a 'force' 8^)
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nedsurf
Aug 31, 2005, 3:57 PM
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No sir... no I don't like gyms at all. But thank you for volunteering to stay in the gym for us who enjoy the outside only.
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jibsguy
Aug 31, 2005, 4:11 PM
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I havn't got enough outdoor experience to say I like gym better than outdoors, but I do know that I love climbing in the gym. I like hiking and all but sometimes it is nice to just walk in and start climbing with other, in my case usually better climbers, there that I can climb with or get suggestions from.
Matt
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 4:13 PM
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In reply to: A "gym bully"...?!? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! That's like an Orange County "Gangsta"! f---ing hilarious!!
Its true..thats the only way to describe him...hes old...like i donno 40+ im guessing..hes BIG..looks like he has a potbelly! Hes strong...climbs 12ds and 13s and wat not...and hes UNFORGIVING!
But hes arrogant and rude. Like he prolly knows everything there is to know about climbing. But he deliberately bes a an A$$ to everyone who hasnt taken his damn lead course(hes good tho..i really wanted to take it but its $$).
Ohhh and he also hangs around with his posse of 40+ chronies! But they are all nice guys. Well hes ok i suppose..that is if you keep out of his way and do everything by the book in his presence!
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 31, 2005, 4:32 PM
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Say something to the effect of:
"Sir? I know you're probably a rad climber and all...and could probably climb circles around me...but, um, we're in a gym. Not exactly the place for an 'ego', eh? I mean, 'real' climbers don't even admit to climbing in a gym...much less boast about it."
*ROLLING!!*
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rastafari
Aug 31, 2005, 4:48 PM
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A bully?????LOL. I'd teach his ass. Well, in my country we don't have this sort of a problem. I use the wall for free since I'm a member of the ''club''. We don't have bullies, but occasionally there is a senior 13's or 14's climber that is a bit of arrogant. But besides that nothing.
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Surprised Mother_Sheep hasn't piped in yet. . . if she does, you're in trouble! She's got plenty of routes under her belt that'd give you more than the jitters Well watever trouble I supposedly made...loos like I GOT AWAY WITH IT THIS TIME! Ohhh nooooo MISTER!!! You're in big, big trouble!!!! hehe Angela. .we need to climb next time you're here!
is that in that motherly sort of tone??? cause if so...then I SERIOSLY AM IN TROUBLE! so wats it gonna be...no pulling PLASTIC for a week?? a month?? NOOOOOOO............... :lol: :lol:
BTW you've got my vote for "COOLEST MUM EVVER"....! adorable boys youve got( lucky guys!)
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Say something to the effect of: "Sir? I know you're probably a rad climber and all...and could probably climb circles around me...but, um, we're in a gym. Not exactly the place for an 'ego', eh? I mean, 'real' climbers don't even admit to climbing in a gym...much less boast about it." *ROLLING!!*
In reply to: A bully?????LOL. I'd teach his ass. Well, in my country we don't have this sort of a problem. I use the wall for free since I'm a member of the ''club''. We don't have bullies, but occasionally there is a senior 13's or 14's climber that is a bit of arrogant. But besides that nothing.
You'd teach his ass eh?!! and what happens wen you call the bully who stole your lunch money a retard mofo asswipe???
I'm not saying i'm afraid of him...but just like a lunch money bully...hes fuckin wayyy stronger than me...so theres not much i can say or do to stand up to him....
ahahahaahah :lol: :lol: :lol:
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 31, 2005, 5:27 PM
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In reply to: well he works there...hes like the resident mountaineer or watever they call it..he sets the routes, teaches the courses etc etc
Sounds like a glorified "routesetter"...40+ yrs old...climbing .12/.13 gym routes that he set...hmm, I'm impressed
;)
I'm just kidding...I find it ridiculous for anyone to have an ego about something as free-spirited as climbing...just doesn't make sense to me.
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arjunrattan
Aug 31, 2005, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like a glorified "routesetter"...40+ yrs old...climbing .12/.13 gym routes that he set...hmm, I'm impressed ;) I'm just kidding...I find it ridiculous for anyone to have an ego about something as free-spirited as climbing...just doesn't make sense to me.
No... knowledge wise this guy is super competent...and no hes not just a glorified route setter...this guy is the real deal. Hes definitely a hardman...trad alpine..i hear hes done it all!
So that ways I guess he can have an attitude if he wants...cause hey..if you can walk the walk, then you get to talk the talk...
Its idiotic though to have an ego about climbing...but then again...it is wat is it...
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teknikal
Aug 31, 2005, 8:14 PM
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I climb indoors because: (1) I live in Kansas, and the closest outdoor climbing is over an hour away, so the gym is more convenient, and (2) because the variability of a t-nutted wall allows me to practice many types of moves and positions (I set routes at the gym, so I am allowed to do this). Other than that, I would much rather be outside climbing somewhere.
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cchildre
Aug 31, 2005, 9:21 PM
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I still encourage you to climb outdoors, but I understand the comfort of the gym and the consistent nature of the climb appeals to you. I just think you haven't spent enough time climbing outdoors to find and experience routes that appeal to you. Climbing areas vary greatly and are condusive to certain climbing styles. Judging from your post, I would imagine that your not too into slab climbing, and I bet a 5.8-.9 slab would cause you plenty of grief, but that isn't what your after. In New Mexico, we have Sitting Bull Falls, they have 60 foot 10's that overhang like mad climbing on mostly jugs, then at the Enchanted Tower even more slung 10's, in fact, they even have an overhanging 5.9 sport route like nothing I have ever seen! It is great you love the indoors, but I think with time and experience, you will find that outside lines will appeal to you more as you learn more about them. Just an opinion though. Sure your a gym rat! Hell your climbing, and is that ever a bad thing for anyone? Who cares where you do it! My selfish stance, has me hoping you will stay indoors and away from the crowded crag, giving me more room to climb. Keep it up brother.
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quiteatingmysteak
Aug 31, 2005, 10:27 PM
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Climbing is what it is, whether for the sport, workout or experience, its all good. Its gonna change so don't expect it to stay the same becauseyou will get Uber frustrated.... only 25 years ago the style was completely different, and it sometimes may be harder to accept, but climb for yourself, not for other people :D
Gyms are sweet, it gives me a job! a lot of very talented climbers train in a gym, but more than that, if its like 7pm on a wed, i cant really go out to Woodson and climb for an hour... its like a 3 hour round trip. but i can get some buddies and mess around at a gym and have just as much fun. easier to be social in a gym.
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arjunrattan
Sep 1, 2005, 5:05 AM
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In reply to: I still encourage you to climb outdoors, but I understand the comfort of the gym and the consistent nature of the climb appeals to you. I just think you haven't spent enough time climbing outdoors to find and experience routes that appeal to you. Climbing areas vary greatly and are condusive to certain climbing styles. Judging from your post, I would imagine that your not too into slab climbing, and I bet a 5.8-.9 slab would cause you plenty of grief, but that isn't what your after. In New Mexico, we have Sitting Bull Falls, they have 60 foot 10's that overhang like mad climbing on mostly jugs, then at the Enchanted Tower even more slung 10's, in fact, they even have an overhanging 5.9 sport route like nothing I have ever seen! It is great you love the indoors, but I think with time and experience, you will find that outside lines will appeal to you more as you learn more about them. Just an opinion though. Sure your a gym rat! Hell your climbing, and is that ever a bad thing for anyone? Who cares where you do it! My selfish stance, has me hoping you will stay indoors and away from the crowded crag, giving me more room to climb. Keep it up brother.
well its funnny...slab climbing is def my strong point, even thuogh it isnt wat totally stimulates me. I just enjoy being on overhanging stuff...and moving on rock upside down more. But slabs are cool as well....
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vlasik
Sep 1, 2005, 7:23 AM
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I climb indoors now because I am married and have 2 kids and work 75 hours a week and have very little time to drive 3 hours to climb.
Much different from living down from Boulder Canyon when I climbed 3-4 days a week and never would have dreamed of climbing indoors.
Do I enjoy it...well its better than not climbing at all. What amazes me is talking to gym employees who have never climber outdoors or learned how to place gear.
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kachoong
Sep 1, 2005, 8:54 AM
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In reply to: What amazes me is talking to gym employees who have never climber outdoors or learned how to place gear. |
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dingus
Sep 1, 2005, 3:35 PM
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What do you expect, you're in Dallas! Sorta like the Jamaican Bob Sled Team didn't have a lot of 'on-ice' time when they got to the Olympics, ya know?
DMT
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cchildre
Sep 1, 2005, 8:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What amazes me is talking to gym employees who have never climber outdoors or learned how to place gear. ....Seems to be the norm these days.... :roll:
Honestly...I think it is probably a good thing for the gym. Having semi qualified personell that might accidentally hand out some outdoor climbing advice for placing gear or anything could leave them in a position to face a lawsuit. IMO, gym emps should know indoor safety procedures and climbing movement...but outdoor stuff I think is a non factor.
I climb with some guys that work at a shop. The liability part of selling gear, you have to walk a fine line, as your really should not demonstrate how it works, and if so, then always follow it up with, "you must have professional instruction to use this gear properly". The liability thing came up after I missed a hold doing a dyno in the shop from a door jam to the ceiling and fell flat on my back on a concrete floor, with out a spot. Luckily no major damage, but it was one hell of a wake up call for them.
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fender13
Sep 1, 2005, 9:19 PM
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I just glanced through the thread but does anyone here realize that you aloud to just enjoy climbing wherever you are :roll:
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cchildre
Sep 1, 2005, 9:30 PM
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In reply to: I just glanced through the thread but does anyone here realize that you aloud to just enjoy climbing wherever you are :roll:
Not to bash on you...but you really should read the whole thread and then answer it yourself.
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tradman
Sep 2, 2005, 9:59 AM
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The criticism that gym routes need to be done in a particular sequence but outdoors you have the freedom to do as you please rings very hollow to me. Hard routes, and especially hard boulder problems, rarely have more than a few ways to do them, precisely because the holds are limited (that's why it's hard, duh).
Indoor climbing doesn't very closely simulate easy outdoor climbing, but I've found that it has very useful similarities to the harder stuff.
Do I enjoy climbing indoors? Yeah, I do. I'm not the macho sort who spends all week boasting about how "hard" and "dangerous" the 5.2 stepladder he flailed up at the weekend was. I'm not in it for the risk, I'm in it for the challenges, and indoor climbings holds just as many of those as outdoors.
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vanclimber
Sep 2, 2005, 12:44 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Do what you want, but I'd rather let my climbing ablility suffer than climb in a gym. Just bores the heck out of me. How I ask?? how can you not ENJOY climbing whether its inside or out?? Or maybe your just in it for the sense of achievement , seeing beatiful landscapes, the adventure etcc etc...everything but the actual movement of climbing?? Then again I climb only sport...trad doesnt appeal to me..YET..quite frankly trad kinda freaks me out..I got the jitters just seconding an eay trad climb! :? :?
http://www.whatafag.com/...447ac5d_original.jpg
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vanclimber
Sep 2, 2005, 12:46 PM
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In reply to: Ohh but the ppl at the gym can be bullies at times! My buddy was leading the roof and he had his foot on the adjacent wall(off limits) for a microsecond. The gym bully(attempting the adjacent .12d) whose watching like a hawk for a chance to crtisize goes "your judment is tainted...that wall is out..you may as well use the yello and grey holds as well(he was on a red hold route)"...and that guy works there...hes verrry competent and is like an insane climber..but hes arrogant at times....and that kinda taskes away the pleasure from the climbing experience. I find outside I climb at my own pace etc etc....and theres noo bullies around! :wink: :P
ROFL
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nicklikesfire
Sep 2, 2005, 1:07 PM
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I liked our gyym at college (clarkson university) The climbbing gym was stutend built, anid student maintained. When you have a part in building something, you apprecuiate it more. Plus I was in charge for a few hours a week, which meant I got keys, which meant if my friends and I wanted to climb at 3 AM, we could.
Aside from a top rope wall, bouldering, and a totally sweet cave, our gym had a slackline, gym rope, and other neat stuff.
It was a good place to hang out.
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ingrowing_whale
Sep 2, 2005, 3:34 PM
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I love climbing gyms. The one I climb in has wall with cracks and notches in just like a real cliff.
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litleclimberchick
Sep 3, 2005, 3:24 AM
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i used to love climbing at my gym, that is until yesterday when my bf broke up w/ me there. now i cant stand too be there. too many memories. anyone need a climbing partner?
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buoux
Sep 3, 2005, 3:59 AM
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i love climbing. (i didn't read the whole thread - just wanted to say what i had to say) so be it in a gym, a desert-wasteland micro-crag, a route many number grades below my ability, to me it's all climbing. movement, problem solving, and physical ability- that's a big part of what draws me to climb. cool people and good times kinda round it out for me.
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stzzo
Sep 3, 2005, 6:20 AM
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Yup, I do. It's different than climbing outside, but for me it's just as fun - for different reasons.
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andrewbanandrew
Sep 3, 2005, 6:31 AM
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I like how I can get much better much faster in a gym. It doesn't help with routefinding skills at all though, and sometimes it's bad in a way because after a while I start recognising the shapes and colors of the holds, so I know if I can throw to something
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johnsor12
Sep 3, 2005, 11:25 AM
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In reply to: Cause I do!!!! call me a n00b or gymrat or watever, but i honestly love sport climbing inside, cause I find the route patterns and degree of overhang etc etc are pretty varied as compared to outside.( I mean how many outdoor super overhang 5.10s do you find?). I guess I just love climbbing upside down! :roll: :roll: Oh i'm leading about 5.10d - 11b.
First off,
HOW did this get to five pages off of this? Monkeys can type?
strike that....considering the climbing reference.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOh I'm leading about 5.10d...........
For f*ck sake. flippin dribble.........
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samxbam8
Sep 11, 2005, 3:48 PM
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I like to gym climb accept it can get really old if u are at the same gym and for 20+ hrs, but it is still fun.
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realdeal39
Sep 11, 2005, 4:09 PM
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I enjoy gyms on a limited basis. Mostly on days when I want to climb but I'm feeling lazy and don't feel like getting all my gear together, finding a partner, untangling my rope, which somehow always manages to get tangled into a huge cluster f--- no matter how much care I had taken to coil it after it's last use, and hiking to a climb. Also when they do a complete overhaul of all the routes I like to spend 2 or 3 days in the gym trying them all out.
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 11, 2005, 4:17 PM
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You could call me a gymrat, because i LOVE inddor bouldering and climbing because its great training for the real thing. Also, the rocks dont hurt your hands and it is alot safer than outdoor bouldering by yourself....
Also, its a fun place just to chill with your climbin buddies....
So yes, i do enjoy gym climbing/bouldering
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sesh
Sep 12, 2005, 7:25 AM
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OK, I'm going to try to answer this question seriously ...
I have plastic climbs (literally) in my back yard (and I don't have to pay anything for it), and there are almost no outdoor routes in my city more than about 30 ft. high, but I still prefer climbing outdoors to in. Real rock just feels so much better than plastic!
And heck, I don't know what kind of gyms you guys have access to, but I find there's MUCH more variety outdoors. Quite apart from the different surfaces you can get (I know of at least 3 different types of sandstone alone), there are all kinds of enormous or tiny cracks in real rocks that you just cant get in a gym. Besides which, after some point in a gym you get to recognise the holds and you know which one has to be held which way. Much better outside where the rock isn't all dotted with bits of pink and green to let you know where to go next.
By the way Arjun, climbing upside down is great, but I can show you 25 foot high simple vertical 5.10a's that you'd fall straight off.
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sesh
Sep 12, 2005, 7:28 AM
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In reply to: does anyone else actually ENJOY gym climbing??
Gym climbing apart, I can see you really enjoyed this thread ... must have doubled your number of posts! Go climb some more!
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arjunrattan
Sep 12, 2005, 10:43 PM
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In reply to: By the way Arjun, climbing upside down is great, but I can show you 25 foot high simple vertical 5.10a's that you'd fall straight off.
ohhh dont get me wrong. Id choose an overhanging outdoor climb to an overhanging indoor climb anyday. Too bad most overhanging stuff around here is is out of my range for now. Bouldering is def my preference, but I find it too short! plus you dont get the same sense of achievement of reaching the top..the kind you get after completing a route.
But yea make no mistake..for now my only goal in climbing is to be the STROGEST climber I can be! So naturally my preference is for stuff that pushes me physically...aka overhanging sport climbs and boulder problems. I find inside alot more conducive to getting real strong real quick.
In reply to: By the way Arjun, climbing upside down is great, but I can show you 25 foot high simple vertical 5.10a's that you'd fall straight off.
Sure bring on them 10a's! Id love to give em a try!
In reply to: Gym climbing apart, I can see you really enjoyed this thread ... must have doubled your number of posts! Go climb some more!
I have a SIKKKK bouldering cave IN MY HOUSE! and the gym is like a 5 min bike ride! I CLIMB EVERYDAY! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: ..well if not climb...train..something..like if im too sore i do pushups. My housemate is uuubbbber strong....like v10ish climbing. I try to keep up with him.. :roll: :roll: ...
But yea all this pursuit of strength is so i can someday go and KILL all them hard routes outside!!!!
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arjunrattan
Sep 12, 2005, 10:47 PM
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Also overhanging sport climbing is more AESTETICALLY pleasing and visually STIMULATING than crimpy slabs...no?? which is partly why i dig it...
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gymslackerclimber
Sep 13, 2005, 8:17 PM
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Do i enjoy it???
where else can you think of, then create, a totally great move/routes.. and create any type of trainning set up you can imagine,,, and easily teach moves and technique,, and make games full of fun, ridiculous, unique moves with your friends...
of course i enjoy gym climbing...!!
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jumpingrock
Sep 13, 2005, 8:48 PM
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Arjun, honestly. You live in Toronto. You want to know how many world class single pitch overhanging 10/11's there are within a 10 hour drive of you? Go to Lion's Head, steep over hanging limestone. Nimbus is a 10a probably one of the best in Southern Ontario.
You want to get out but don't have the money eh? Well hmmm... try car pooling. There are plenty of climbers in Toronto who would be more than willing to split the cost of driving. Try camping. Lions Head camping is from $10 a night. How much do you pay for your year pass?
However, at the end of the day you climb at a half decent gym. It is a fun gym. But most of your arguments are weak. Try growing a pair and getting outside. And the Milton area doesn't really count. (Though there is a 15' Roof crack at Nemo. I think it goes at 11c. Looks pretty sweet)
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snodawg
Sep 13, 2005, 9:24 PM
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Outdoor climbing is great. I climb at smith rock and other places but I do love my winters in the gym. I like the people, the attitude, and the workout. I can work harder and faster in the gym. The gym is coming in second though. My own personal climbing wall will be done in my vaulted living room very soon.
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leezerdgirl
Sep 14, 2005, 2:05 AM
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I love my gym. I love climbing outside. I'd feel the loss painfully if I couldn't have either one.
Re: whether real climbers climb at the gym...I've seen Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden several times at my gym. They didn't seem to be sneering. They were just climbing, just like me. Okay, about ten to twelve grades harder, but otherwise just like me. :D
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climbgod
Sep 19, 2005, 2:18 AM
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climbing outside is definately a huge part of the whole experience and i definately prefer it but i still love climbing in the gym if i have to. climbing is climbing and its always fun no matter where.
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misanthropic_nihilist
Sep 19, 2005, 3:39 AM
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I've grown to love climbing in the gym, mainly for two reasons:
There isn't any great outdoor climbing near me.
I have no friends to climb with outside.
...I'm mostly a bouldering wall rat. Although I've been thinking of getting into free soloing. That way I'll get outside and won't have to worry about making friends.
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kricir
Oct 24, 2005, 5:04 AM
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I Think that it is important to distinguish between gym “climbing” and actual climbing. This thread is the same as if a runner asked, do you like to actually go running, or run on a treadmill? You may be able to “train” in a gym physically, but none of the mental aspects/challenges of climbing exist in a gym. And even then, how much training can really be done on a 30 ft “route”? I think gym climbing is a poor distorted imitation of the sport I love, I climb to gain perspective on the world and this life, to explore reality and expand my character. Gyms have opened the door for every day mediocre people to pretend they are doing something different or extreme, and climbing has suffered because of it. To all of you gym rats out there, please do us all a favor and stop thinking of yourself as “climbers”.
But after all that, I’d say yea, gym climbing can be fun.
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arjunrattan
Oct 24, 2005, 8:12 PM
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In reply to: I Think that it is important to distinguish between gym “climbing” and actual climbing. This thread is the same as if a runner asked, do you like to actually go running, or run on a treadmill? You may be able to “train” in a gym physically, but none of the mental aspects/challenges of climbing exist in a gym. And even then, how much training can really be done on a 30 ft “route”? I think gym climbing is a poor distorted imitation of the sport I love, I climb to gain perspective on the world and this life, to explore reality and expand my character. Gyms have opened the door for every day mediocre people to pretend they are doing something different or extreme, and climbing has suffered because of it. To all of you gym rats out there, please do us all a favor and stop thinking of yourself as “climbers”. But after all that, I’d say yea, gym climbing can be fun.
You know what, your right! Thats exactly what I'm asking...Its like asking the runner...does he enjoy the very motion of running...if he answers yes..then sure hed enjoi the treadmill as well...
I'm not saying indoor climbing is better or worse than outside...I'm simply asking whether you enjoi it not... Like ENJOY it..not just do it for training to get bettter or something...
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realdeal39
Oct 24, 2005, 9:26 PM
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I love gym climbing. I really love it when there is a group of little kids watching me and I jump on a 5.12+ and their eyes just light up in amazement because they think I'm a bad a--. Then some 7 year old will jump on a 5.13 and show me up and I'll come crashing back to the harsh reality that I'm only a 5.11 climber. But for those few moments, I feel like a god.
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deltav
Oct 24, 2005, 10:36 PM
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For those of us who work 9-5 and are at least 1.5hrs away from a crag, gyms are a great thing...for TRAINING. I love going to the gym after work or grad classes. Much better than the type that involves putting 200lbs of iron over my head again and again. But you will never catch me at the gym on a bright and sunny Sat. If you do, take that big #5BD and clock me upside the head. :o
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pianomahnn
Oct 25, 2005, 5:15 AM
Post #85 of 89
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Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
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I'm a born and raised Chicago gym rat.
I stand proud behind why I climb. The friends, exercise, and it makes me look HOT for all the BEETCHES.
Thats right. Watch me pull down on your v12 slopey plastic nonsense. CAMPUS DYNO GASTON SLABDYNO4LYFE!!
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musicman1586
Oct 26, 2005, 5:46 AM
Post #86 of 89
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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I've been climbing for somewhere around 2 months now, thus meaning that I'm quite qualified to be labeled the most extreme beginner around. I have to say that I do enjoy indoor climbing and not just for training purposes for several reasons, although don't get me wrong I wish to partake in more outdoor ventures as they continue to come. My first reasoning is that if it wasn't for the gym, I never would have gotten into rock climbing. My university has a nice, brand new, rock gym and while visiting the recreation center I decided to check it out. Thus I owe it to a gym that I even got started on my new addiction. Second I think plastic is more beginner friendly. Those that may have started on rock may disagree, but the gym allowed me to slowly build up the muscle (in particular finger) strength, starting off on those huge easy-to-grab hand holds then slowly moving to working the tiny crimps, odd-shaped holds, and natural cracks and features. For me, when I finally got outside, I had a more enjoyable experience because my body was better prepared, so I could better focus on "proper outdoor technique" such as how to hold a hand jam tighter, rather then having to focus on both the hand jam AND how to keep my foot smeared against the wall. A third reason for why I like indoor climbing is the people. I meet a lot of climbers who have plenty of useful information to pass on, and it's because of a gym that I've met people that I'm able to do outside climbing with as I don't have the gear (yet) needed to do so, or the experience needed to set up equipment that sort of deal. Granted I could just go bouldering, but with the experience I have I think a partner is undeniably a good idea. My final reason for why I enjoy indoor climbing refers more so to bouldering, but really climbing in general. I think it's helped with mental training as well, because knowing that there's a thick pad underneath me has allowed me make myself go for those awkward, unorthodox, or just plain "hard" moves where my body and mind are just yelling "this is too weird, you don't have the strength for that, etc. etc." In other words, the safety factor has helped me get control of what real potential I have as a climber each day. Well this was quite a long-winded response, I've never been one for short words, but I hope some people find it interesting enough.
PS. I am not saying that climbing indoor is better then outdoor or vice versa, just stating the opinion of an eager newbie.
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dilly
Oct 26, 2005, 6:38 AM
Post #87 of 89
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Registered: May 20, 2004
Posts: 5
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I've developed a love for gym climbing because of women in lulu lemon pants.
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singin_rocker
Oct 26, 2005, 7:49 AM
Post #88 of 89
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Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 75
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Gym climbing has it's appealing dynamic that it's become obvious to me, won't appeal to everyone.
The gym I go to is gruelling practice. It's mostly ceiling. Real endurance training, but not much of the head game involved. It's like: Me - "falling...". Belayer - "whatever.".
Outdoors is great. A lot of it can seem not very challenging at first (talking about sport routes that are neither straight vertical or ceilings), but it all depends on what you climb. The variety is endless.
I love meeting local climbers at the gym. This is such a small country that when you climb outdoors, there's no telling where people will be from. You meet people at the gym who climb at your level, maybe future climbing partners and you can hang out with 'em at the pub later to talk about .... well, I don't know. What do climbers talk about? :)
Waylan
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litleclimberchick
Oct 27, 2005, 7:34 PM
Post #89 of 89
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
Posts: 1254
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oh god, not this thread again...
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
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