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jumar
Nov 28, 2006, 6:52 PM
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Temps are dropping here in Utah. Thought I'd start a conditions thread for Utah. Anyone going out this weekend to try to find ice?
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builttospill
Nov 28, 2006, 8:58 PM
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the price-cicle ought to be in. A call to Hansen Mountaineering in Orem should yield info about that since I think the Serac Club went down on thanksgiving. I don't think PC is in, but there is easy stuff up the Aspen Grove trail a mile if you've got skis or snowshoes.
Not sure about the ice up in Ogden or GWI, would be interested to hear.
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stymingersfink
Nov 29, 2006, 5:45 AM
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price-cicle was in two weeks ago, with the warmer temps we had over the last week it's probably in a reforming state. I was driving through provo canyon on thanksgiving, dry as a bone, relatively speaking.
should be good by the time I get home however.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:25 AM)
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builttospill
Nov 30, 2006, 7:53 PM
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word on another website is that GWI is good to go, but scruffy is not in at all. Haven't checked myself, but may go up tomorrow.
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builttospill
Dec 1, 2006, 8:02 AM
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just confirmed that GWI is in. First pitch is a bit thin, and so is the final bulge to the right on the very last section. Neither would take pro well at this point, but you can avoid the latter by moving left to easier ground and the first section is easy enough by itself that most won't NEED to protect it.
Get after it.
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jumar
Dec 1, 2006, 7:47 PM
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Stairway is coming in nicely, but I saw a sign that the area is closed for avalanche control. I think i'll head to Joe's this weekend
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builttospill
Dec 1, 2006, 10:50 PM
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I think that sign was because on Thursday UDOT was sighting in their howitzer, according to the Utah Avalanche website. Not sure it should still be up but I'll avoid it anyway.
How are the bridal veil flows looking, and what about the stuff further east in the canyon?
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stymingersfink
Dec 4, 2006, 5:54 AM
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today (sunday, dec 3) my partner and I climbed to the base of P5 on stairway. The P5 left pillar is mostly there,, though the top appeared scary-thin WI5+ conditions. No guarantees on how well it's bonded to the rock at the top!
P3 was wetter than usual. P4 has the left pillar forming, though it has not touched down quite yet.
Also of note on stairway was the absence of any flow from last years farming efforts above P5... anyone have any beta on what happened to the hoses?
From what I was seeing, almost everything on the South side of the creek is in climbing shape, with the exception of the Fang, the tube of which has not yet closed.
Miller's Thriller, Post Nasal Drip, Finger of Fate, the stuff left of Bridal Veil, BVR, White Nightmare, the two climbs west of Stairway are IN... get it while its cold!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:26 AM)
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jumar
Dec 4, 2006, 4:21 PM
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Joe's is coming in as well. CCC is in, Highway and Wolfenstein looked climbable on Saturday.
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btreanor
Dec 10, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Right, I'd love it if folks kept this updated, as there are no regular updates like there are for SW Colorado (Vince) and Lee Vining (Doug). So, I'm thinking of heading out to Utah any conditions reports on:
Stairway to Heaven
White Nightmare and the routes around the falls
Storm Mountain Falls
Scottish Gully
The Donorsicle ( and other routes at Joe's)
Get Whacked (and other routes at Maple)
Thanks for any info
Brian
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stymingersfink
Dec 10, 2006, 1:28 AM
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No word yet on maple, I doubt there has been enough snow in the high country to feed the flows yet, though I could be totally off base with that one... it's certainly been cold enough down there.
Stairway was looking good last week, though tonight I heard second-hand information which leads me to believe that P5 has collapsed. Tomorrow will tell for sure.
White Nightmare, Bridalveil and routes east were looking good last week with the exception of the Fang, probably in similar shape tonight.
Joe's is an early season sure-thing, but haven't been there to check it out in quite some time. Post above was reporting forming conditions,, probably hasn't changed much.
Scottish Gully... Why Bother? Since we haven't gotten much snow in the last week it's probably safe to climb, but its a no-go after a storm due to its location in an avalanche path.
Storm Mountain, like Mahlen's, requires an inversionary system, or a cold snap with cloud cover. Due to their southern exposure you've gotta get them the day they come in or till sunny weather returns. VERY fickle those two are.
Perhaps I'll have an update for the BV area tomorrow night, if I have time to post.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:26 AM)
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builttospill
Dec 10, 2006, 4:38 AM
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As of Thursday the 7th, the flows in Bridal Veil were looking good, white nightmare was climbable. We messed around on the flows at the base of stairway and it was fat.
These guys say Joe's is in. I don't know any better.
http://www.utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1971
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btreanor
Dec 10, 2006, 4:53 AM
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Thanks for the beta. I've climbed all the routes I listed, so other suggestions would certainly be welcome. I did Storm Mountain and Scottish Gully on the same day and thought Scottish Gully was a blast. I'll keep "bumping" this thread through the season; thanks in advance for the beta.
Brian
(This post was edited by btreanor on Dec 10, 2006, 4:53 AM)
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jumar
Dec 19, 2006, 7:27 PM
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I haven't gotten out lately, but PC looks like it's in good shape. Anyone have conditions to report?
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natec
Dec 19, 2006, 7:47 PM
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I'm hoping that Joes will be in for the weekend after Christmas. Anyone have word on the current conditions at Joes?
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jumar
Dec 19, 2006, 7:49 PM
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Joe's will be in good shape. At least CCC and Highway to Heaven. I bet Donnercicle is getting better too. Not sure on wolfenstein or the others.
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mccallew
Dec 19, 2006, 8:26 PM
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Can anyone suggest any online resources for route information in and or around Maple Canyon?
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btreanor
Dec 19, 2006, 9:05 PM
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Bump! Any specific conditions would be much appreciated. I may be in UT the first week in January, but will have to wait to see what I can hear about conditions. The San Juans are looking great right now, so I may end up doing the extra drive.
How is Utah looking my friends?
Brian
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builttospill
Dec 20, 2006, 5:20 AM
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I'll be out on Friday hopefully so I can report more then, but all I know is that it's 12 degrees in pleasant grove right now (about 12 minutes from the mouth of provo canyon) so I'm guessing conditions there are quite good. 10 day forecast has the absolute high at 37 here in the valley, so it should be good for awhile.
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jahsh
Dec 20, 2006, 8:34 PM
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I live in about 30 miles south of Maple and it was 3'F this morning at about 6:30...about a week and a half ago i went up maple and none of the major flows of the road had formed in thick yet but definetly was forming ice...might head up there tommorow to see how this cold spell is treating them...anyone interested in a climbing partner for maple should drop me a line
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stymingersfink
Dec 23, 2006, 3:27 AM
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maple requires snow loads in the high country, followed by 33+ degree days to get the water flowing. once it hits the low-country it will freeze up quite nicely. With the storm that's pounding us now, I'd expect to see some thick ice with the next few slightly warmish days.
Yeah!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:27 AM)
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jahsh
Dec 23, 2006, 4:34 PM
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thanks for the beta on maple, stymi.
nice quote
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stymingersfink
Dec 25, 2006, 2:44 AM
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Went up Stairway yesterday to the top of 5, it was FAT! Everything on the south side up the canyon from there was in with the exception of the Fang.
Hiked up to climb on Malen's today, which was in pretty nice, but didn't get to climb on it. Had an issue with my dog which required a 45 minute hike out with her on my back, then a visit to the pet ER. Oh well.
Heard reports that things are still too cold to get good ice forming in Maple yet. As I stated before, we need snow in the high country (got it) followed by warm days to get the water flowing. If anyone has better conditions reports from there I would be happy to see them.
A bit O/T, word is Cody was in the best shape EVER last year, but even better THIS year. Anyone planning on heading up that way for the Cody Ice Fest?
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:28 AM)
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reno
Dec 25, 2006, 3:50 AM
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Now y'all are making me cry:
I'm gonna be in SLC Jan 24-27, and will not have time to climb any of this fat ice of which you speak.
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robman
Dec 25, 2006, 4:20 AM
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I would consider climbing in Cody, went there last year and loved it. Hope to get out later this week/ weekend PROVO!!!
Just got back from Ouray and would like to keep the momentum going. Phat Ice = good stuff!!!
Anybody???
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deanlords
Dec 25, 2006, 6:05 AM
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Climbed in Maple 5 or 6 days ago. Cobble Cruncher was in great condition. A few other routes in the Box are doable. Also climbed Topless, Bottomless the same day. Accessed the ice via drytooling up the bolt line to the left of the water streak. At the time, a small curtain of ice hung down to the same level as the top anchors for the rock route and felt about WI 6+ to gain lower angle thin ice above. It was dripping and seemed to be forming fast.
Hope that helps. Other routes in the canyon seemed to be forming well.
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alpinerocket
Dec 28, 2006, 7:51 PM
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any one been out recently? Looking for conditions from Logan to GWI to Provo.
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stymingersfink
Dec 29, 2006, 2:22 AM
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ask me sunday.
It warmed up a little bit over the past few days here in the SLC area, but cooled down a bit today. Highs for the next week are forecasted in the high 20's low 30's. That's HIGHs, so things should be looking good.
Planning on heading down to santaquin on saturday, but if it's not looking good we'll probably finish the drive to maple and get on SOMEthing
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:28 AM)
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alpinerocket
Dec 29, 2006, 3:01 AM
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thanks for the reply, I'll probable get out tomarrow. Havent been out for bout 2 weeks. Ill post what I find.
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Base733
Dec 30, 2006, 6:02 AM
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Word was the GWI was good for the first few pitches but the top was wet and mixed. Also, the route was pretty crowded with three separate parties on it at one time this afternoon.
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btreanor
Dec 30, 2006, 11:37 PM
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Hey all,
Any updated conditions from folks out on the ice today?
Stairway?
Maple?
Santaquin?
Joe's?
Thanks
Brian
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 2:28 AM
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Yesterday drove past Ogden on the 15, was able to see the top of malan's was still hanging around... if you're up for a WI5 lead you may get the first ascent of the season. Get there early to beat the sun.
This morning my partner drove down provo canyon on the way to santaquin, reports that stairway is fatter this week than last week (when it was climbing pretty fat already). He was tempted to hit up PND, but didn't bring rock gear, so SOL. With the exception of the Fang, all climbs on south side are in climbable condition.
We went down to Santaquin, where Candlestick looked 90% in (the top looked like a death-trap, more so than usual) ACT's curtain was 20' short of touching down, but if one was up for some M8-ish climbing to reach the ice, it appeared sol-ID!
White Angel of Fear is getting it's wings, the upper dagger is ~ 15 -20ft shy of touching down, the lower pitch is in need of some moisture, though one might mix it up if one were desperate to put themselves in harms way. Here's hoping the new year remains cold enough to keep it forming, with enough moisture to feed it.
The top of Ricochet had a dagger hanging over the exit, if one were looking for some serious M-climbing.
We soloed up Squashead, it was some nice firm ice, if a bit chopped in places... At least the majority of it was dry.
Rapped off the back side to do Back-Off, there was another party's leader about half-way up the center (PM me Nick), so I took the left side... it was running with water in places, snow-covered chandelier ice in others. I felt like I was soloing it, as my screws felt like junk, but Matt said they had refrozen in place pretty well so they may have held if tested.
Get Back On It had a dusting of snow, it didn't look to have an ice-glaze though. I've never climbed it, so don't know what climbable conditions for it are, but I wouldn't have seen a climb there if Matt hadn't pointed out where it SHOULD have been.
Tomorrow planning on a run in to check on conditions at Stewart's Falls, then get some bc skiing in with some friends who came in from out of town. If anyone could save me the trip I would appreciate it!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:23 AM)
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btreanor
Dec 31, 2006, 3:07 AM
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stymingersfink
Thanks! I think I'll be out there from the 2nd to the 8th, planning on hitting Joe's first and working north...
Brian
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 3:47 AM
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save yourself an hour or two to play on the pricicle (aka, dirticicle) on the drive north on highway 6. Esthetically it doesn't receive too high a marks, but you can literally belay from the truck! Keep an eye out for it on the west side of the road as you climb the hill... its north of the coal mine by 10-ish miles or so. Usually in WI4+ - WI5 ish conditions.
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:29 AM)
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builttospill
Dec 31, 2006, 4:31 AM
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climbed GWI this morning. It was in fine shape....sort of a mixed bag....first pitch was the best I've ever seen it, but up top it wasn't quite so nice.
Climbable for sure, but felt a bit harder and delicate than the standard WI3.....protection isn't "throw a screw in anywhere" at this point, but it's a nice climb still. Wasn't crowded this morning, shockingly.
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 4:38 AM
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builttospill wrote: climbed GWI this morning. It was in fine shape....sort of a mixed bag....first pitch was the best I've ever seen it, but up top it wasn't quite so nice. Climbable for sure, but felt a bit harder and delicate than the standard WI3.....protection isn't "throw a screw in anywhere" at this point, but it's a nice climb still. Wasn't crowded this morning, shockingly.
get thee to provo canyon!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:29 AM)
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builttospill
Dec 31, 2006, 11:19 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: builttospill wrote: climbed GWI this morning. It was in fine shape....sort of a mixed bag....first pitch was the best I've ever seen it, but up top it wasn't quite so nice. Climbable for sure, but felt a bit harder and delicate than the standard WI3.....protection isn't "throw a screw in anywhere" at this point, but it's a nice climb still. Wasn't crowded this morning, shockingly. get thee to provo canyon!
[IMage]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/daryns77/indian%20creek/IMG_0932.jpg[/IMage]
I know, I know, but I go where there is someone to hold the rope for me (and occasionally put it at the top for me).
I need to lead some harder stuff though.
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gargrantuan
Dec 31, 2006, 5:40 PM
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i am just wondering how utah ice grades compare to canadian rockies ice grades. it seems like you guys toss out WI6/6+ pretty easily, whereas up here it is reserved for the test pieces. how do some of your 6's compare to some of ours?
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 6:12 PM
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gargrantuan wrote: i am just wondering how utah ice grades compare to canadian rockies ice grades. it seems like you guys toss out WI6/6+ pretty easily, whereas up here it is reserved for the test pieces. how do some of your 6's compare to some of ours?
well, haven't climbed WI6 in "your" neck of the woods, but I would guess similarly, in that dead-vertical and overhanging ice to some degree probably poorly bonded to the rock with tricky protection and an inability to regain one's highpoint should a section collapse and not add to the body-count sort of way.
Here's Frankenchrist, a WI6 from the Maple area
By contrast, WI5 would be merely vertical ice, by all appearances fairly well bonded to the rock with protection one might reasonably expect to hold a fall.
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alpinerocket
Jan 2, 2007, 8:09 PM
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Sorry, didnt post conditions earlier. We just got on GWI friday and I have to echo earlier comment on its condition. Ok ice on the lower portion. Climbed to the upper pitch and found a horizontal fracture in the pillar we wanted to do. Based on the routes crowds we elected to not climb it, concerned that we may knock a refrigerator size block on some one.
I would like to get to Provo or Logan this Friday if anyone is interested. I can lead WI 3-4. Have everything needed. I'll take a newbie as long as yur a solid belay.
Take it easy, John
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guanoboy
Jan 2, 2007, 8:42 PM
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what would you want to do in Logan? I could be up for Malan's.
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alpinerocket
Jan 3, 2007, 3:27 AM
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I could be up for Malans. However I cant get out till 8am (get off work at the FD at that time). So, it may be a little late to to start that one. I will climb anything in Logan thats in. Or head to Provo. Doesnt matter as long as I can swing my tools. Let me know.
alpinerocket@comcast.net or 801-643-6774
Take it easy, John
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stymingersfink
Jan 3, 2007, 6:41 PM
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Got fairly reliable information that Huntsville has some quality ice conditions as of new-years weekend, and that Joe's has quite a bit of ice to be climbed.
New Years Day my partner and I hit up Stewart's Falls (behind Sundance) with photographer in tow... the light left a little to be desired but the ice was phenomenal. Too bad the approaching storm will probably leave it too dangerous to climb for some time due to avie conditions.
Ran into a guy on Sunday who was scoping the Fang. It was still spitting water, but this morning my partner drove by and reports it's as close to climbable as he's ever seen it. He's made two attempts on it in years past, having to retreat each time due to rapid changes in the condition of the ice tube, but perhaps this weekend will provide an opportunity for another attempt.
All other climbs in the Bridalveil area are in climbing shape AFAIK.
Malan's was due to be climbed this morning. Preliminary reports from an developing grade-5 leader said the right side was running water, but the left side of the upper curtain looked primed to climb... don't think the thing has seen an ascent yet this season, so if he makes it up safely he'll be this season's first.
As of Saturday Santaquin was needing some time to develope, but I haven't heard anything new from that area yet. Provided there has been enough water to keep things forming I would expect ACT to be near touching down... temps have certainly been cold enough.
Have yet to hit Maple up myself, though with the weather we've been having it should be approaching prime shape. Looking forward to getting down there in the near future... anyone got any more recent beta on that area they'd care to share?
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builttospill
Jan 5, 2007, 8:54 PM
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provo canyon is still good, if a bit crowded this morning. miller's thriller was wet and crumbly. everything looks fat.
The tube on the fang is the only exception....it is running water.
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guanoboy
Jan 6, 2007, 4:59 PM
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anyone interested in getting on Malan's tomorrow (sun, Jan. 7). Looks like it might warm up later this week - get it while its cold.
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stymingersfink
Jan 7, 2007, 3:06 AM
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the Fang was looking good today, but we weren't the first, nor the last. Someone had hit it up probably Friday, and as we were topping out there was another party getting started at the base.
The tube is not closed, but the left side is solid enough that someone felt comfortable placing a half dozen screws into it.
MT styled up the second pitch quite nicely if I do say so myself, damn near soloing it while leaving a single screw behind the pillar mid-way up. It was a nice lead... He's off to Ouray this week, while other business compells me to fly to california on Monday. Damn.
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btreanor
Jan 7, 2007, 7:06 PM
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From my recent roadtrip:
BCC:
Storm Mountain OUT
Scottish Gully OUT
LCC:
GWI IN
Scruffy's IN AND THIN (in places)
Provo:
Stairway IN, but not as good as my last two trips
Bridalveil area: LOOKS like some is IN
Santaquin:
Candelstick: IN
Squashhead: IN (wet)
Better Than Bagdhad: IN
Backoff: IN
Joe's:
Highway to Heaven: IN
Wolfenstein: IN
CCC: IN
Spear of Fear: OUT
Ampitheater: OUT
Maple:
Pretty much everything OUT
Cobble Cruncher and a few others are THIN and SCARY
Hopefully the storms that hit me on Thurs, Fri will help out the ice.
Thanks for the beta prior to my trip. Keep it up.
Brian
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jumar
Jan 12, 2007, 4:40 PM
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So is there not going to be an ice festival in Provo this year?
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stymingersfink
Jan 13, 2007, 4:55 AM
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hasn't been in the last several years, AFAIR.
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robman
Jan 15, 2007, 4:16 PM
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It has been cold as F*#! Here in SLC. And the ice is doing real well.
As of 1-14-07
GWI is fat
Scruffy Band 10cm screws and rock gear. Scary…
Provo; most everything is in and climbing well.
Santaquin; Automatic control is Phat and touching down. Candlestick is also looking good.
Squash Head; good
Back off; is fat
It don’t get much better so get out there and flick your picks 
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natec
Jan 16, 2007, 5:26 PM
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robman wrote: It has been cold as F*#! Here in SLC. And the ice is doing real well. As of 1-14-07 GWI is fat Scruffy Band 10cm screws and rock gear. Scary… Provo; most everything is in and climbing well. Santaquin; Automatic control is Phat and touching down. Candlestick is also looking good. Squash Head; good Back off; is fat It don’t get much better so get out there and flick your picks
I was in Santaquin and Provo over the weekend and will second that. Such an amazing weekend and such awesome conditions, maybe a little too cold but hey whatever.
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stymingersfink
Jan 16, 2007, 10:20 PM
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Was White Angel of Fear still building? How far till it touches down? It's the massive hanging thing just up-canyon from ACT... still there?
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wyjames
Jan 16, 2007, 10:25 PM
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Thanks for the updates everyone!
We are coming to SLC the middle of next month and hope to climb some ice (most likely GWI) and the current conditions are very appreciated.
Cheers, James
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natec
Jan 17, 2007, 5:55 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Was White Angel of Fear still building? How far till it touches down? It's the massive hanging thing just up-canyon from ACT... still there?
It was still forming. I'm not quite sure how much more it had to go. Sorry I don't have more info.
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00bg
Jan 17, 2007, 4:28 PM
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did you notice any (climbable?) free hanging cicles/daggers to the lookers left of White Angel of Fear?
(been wantin' to give Ricochet a go.)
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natec
Jan 17, 2007, 4:37 PM
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00bg wrote: did you notice any (climbable?) free hanging cicles/daggers to the lookers left of White Angel of Fear? (been wantin' to give Ricochet a go.)
Ricochet "may" be climbable. I say may because I don't know how far the mixed climbing extends to reach the icicle.
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00bg
Jan 17, 2007, 8:57 PM
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natec, thanks for the heads-up on Ricochet. temping to check it out but i'm not willing to kick anything free-hanging with day-temps as they currently are (been on the delivery end before).
hey Scott/Darren/locals, are you not piping water off the tram deck this year? i'm not seeing any ice in this photo taken last friday.
credit: John Frieh
sure would be nice to see a repeat like that of last february (sorry, no photo).
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bsmoot
Jan 18, 2007, 12:39 AM
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Yeah, the ice farming last year above Stairway was sooo amazing.
In Big Cottonwood Canyon, the falls right of Bumble Bee wall are not in...need more water flow.
The name White Angel of Fear is incorrect, it's just Angel of Fear
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stymingersfink
Jan 19, 2007, 4:36 AM
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noted.
headin down there sat is sounds like, we'll be gettin on somethin.
I've heard (pure conjecture) that early season avalanches disturbed the hoses for the upper pitches on stairway, but another friend wonders if the water police didn't go up thattaway and rip them out over the summer.
Darren... any word on that?
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natec
Jan 20, 2007, 12:59 AM
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00bg wrote: natec, thanks for the heads-up on Ricochet. temping to check it out but i'm not willing to kick anything free-hanging with day-temps as they currently are (been on the delivery end before). hey Scott/Darren/locals, are you not piping water off the tram deck this year? i'm not seeing any ice in this photo taken last friday. sure would be nice to see a repeat like that of last february (sorry, no photo).
I've got a photo of Ricochet that I found if you're interested. If anyone else is interested in pics from Santaquin last week check back later this evening. I'm going to see if I can get them posted.
I also need help identifying a route that we climbed.
Stay tuned.
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triassic
Jan 20, 2007, 1:44 AM
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The hoses to the left of Upper Bridalveil Falls are still there, but froze up and broke. The ones to the right of Upper Bridalveil Falls were taken out by the avalanche, but there's still some new hose up there but no funnel. The stuff above Stairway to Heaven is there, but busted into three pieces and part of the first one is frozen. None of us had a couple of free days to set it up this year again, too bad because it's probably one of the best ice years for Provo in a long, long time.
I've been ice climbing in Maple for the last two months. Nothing's in too well in Box Canyon, but you could do Moroni Turkey Plant WI4, Roadside Couloir WI3, Wet Itchies WI4, Four Pin Variation WI4+, Bowling Ball Head WI3+, Deep Throat Maple WI3, Belly Flop Slab WI2, The Brittle Stiffie (3 pitches of WI3-..WI3+..WI5-), Iron Hawk WI4+, Fallen Angel WI3-, Halo WI3-, Ooga Booga WI2+, Bubbling Googly WI2+, Gun Street Girl WI5. And Ice 800 at The Margarita Cave has finally touched down all the way. I'm calling it The White Light and it seemed about WI6 like the Jason Steven's guide predicted it would be.
Frankenchrist still had about 20 feet to go and Get Whacked was almost together, there are a few bolts from the sport climbs sticking thru and could probably be done in comparative safety.
(Note to people reading this that have never ice climbed in Maple before: Maple is thinner and quite a bit more difficult than your pure ice route, so come prepared with short screws, angles and lost arrows, tri-cams, etc. Mountainworks and Maple Leaf both sell the Maple Ice Guide if you can't find it anywhere, there are a lot more ice routes in it than the Ice Climbing Utah Guide.)
Oh Yeah, a 4WD and High clearance is necessary to get to the parking for Left & Right Fork that means AWD cars have been getting stuck.
If I get a chance I'll post some photos.
Have Fun, Darren.
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jahsh
Jan 20, 2007, 1:53 AM
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Does anyone know what is going on with ogdens ice farming up waterfall canyon? (near malan's) i'd heard alot a talk about an ice park this fall...and is it still illegal to climb the falls in ogden canyon?
just curious
thanks
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guanoboy
Jan 21, 2007, 5:10 PM
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can anyone get out on something in the next few days?
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stymingersfink
Jan 22, 2007, 5:30 AM
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thanks for the update, triassic. give a shout out early next season if you need a hand with the hoses, I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to volunteer.
We were up on upper BV yesterday, checking things out and made an attempt to get the hoses flowing again, but they seemed full of ice, so not much luck there.
Must say, the ice around the upper falls is some of the most beautiful, intricate ice I've ever seen... beautiful cauliflowers covered in rime ice, roots dangling from them near the roof, the crystal caverns surrounding the stream were magnificent!
Of note for any of you headed up that direction... there is a tree with a short setion of rope set up to get you over the lip to a 4 bolt anchor, two with chains. I wasn't trusting the rope for shit, but after my partner made it to the lower ledge I rapped over and clipped in to it, then re-set the rap with a simple knot untying/retying. Probably worth the hassle, as the tree is back from the edge a ways and the knot may have caused problems with the pull. All in all, it may have been easier to walk around to the top of White Nightmare and rap it instead, but we had left our ropes/tools behind while we were checking out the mixed lines in the area, so screwed ourselves there.
Where is this Ice800 you speak of? I may have to take a couple of day off work this week to see it for myself. Planning on hitting Stewarts again on tuesday morning as it is...
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brianinslc
Jan 22, 2007, 4:19 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: Where is this Ice800 you speak of?
Methinks its on the left side of the cave? Its in JS's book.
Nice send, D to the K! And, great update on the conditions down yonder.
-Brian in SLC
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triassic
Jan 23, 2007, 6:21 AM
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Ice 800 is in The Margarita Cave which is about 75 yards to the left of The Pipedream Cave.
The waterfall on the left side of the Pipedream Cave has never touched down and if it does it would be about WI9. There's a sport climb that angles up and right underneath it and if you added a few bolts going left you could have an eighty foot mixed route into a super huge dagger.
The White Light is to the right of Ice 800 and is about 40 feet of a u-shaped column about 3 inches thick and very delicate. You can clip a bolt and then the anchors of Ice 800 when you're about 40 feet up then another 10 feet puts you on a small ledge with a bolt. I put a few bolts above that ledge in on the lead to protect a 35' brittle ice tube. (This section usually gets a little thinner later in the season). All in all about 100 feet tall.
If the column looks really scary you can clip a few bolts on Ice 800 and take a big swing to the left if the whole things collapses.
If you lead this climb and your climbing partner wants to toprope it have them lightly hook and tick their way up it. If they swing their axe too hard it could bring the whole thing down on them.
Very cool lead though!
Gun Street Girl is also a route you walk by on the way to The Pipedream Cave and is as good as if not better than Get Whacked. It was in about a week ago! It's up the 1st gulley to your left after passing the Damascus Gate on your left.
There's too much ice to do and not enough cold months!
Darren.
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stymingersfink
Jan 24, 2007, 12:23 AM
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triassic wrote: There's too much ice to do and not enough cold months!
SECOND THAT!
Stewarts was in this morning fatter than it was 3 weeks ago, got some good pics from the day but you'll have to wait a bit to see them.
It was getting full on sun from 7:30-11:30, a wet almost slushy climb till ya hit the shade, where it turned brittle as hell. There's plenty of room to play on the thing, and the hike in is only about 35-40 min... I might recommend the left side as the safer play, but I don't always take my own advise.
Ice 9, huh? We could climb that in 40degree days, yes? (I forget who proposed such a thing... was it Ray Bradbury?) Sickness!
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jahsh
Jan 24, 2007, 5:48 PM
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ice 9...thats from cats cradle by kurt vonnegut.
josh
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stymingersfink
Jan 31, 2007, 1:20 AM
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Check injuries accidents forum for link to Stairway to Heaven fatality story.
Conditions update:
Provo: Everything except Bridal Veil is still in climbable shape.
Santaquin: ACT seeing quite a bit of traffic, candlestick's top end is in it's usual delaminated shape, though the pillar is looking pretty stout. Two separate parties were on it on Saturday. Angle of Fear had collapsed and is in a re-building state, the upper curtain is hanging probably 30' over the edge of the roof... serious M-climbing to get up that direction.
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natec
Feb 8, 2007, 7:10 AM
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What's the hopes for the ice in SLC or Provo this weekend? I know this warm weather couldn't have made things better but I'd like to hear from someone who's been out this week.
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Gino74
Feb 8, 2007, 9:57 PM
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For any ice climber in Utah, I have a Question. Is ther any ice climbing down in the ST George area? And if so were? I am new to this part of the counrty. Utah rulz..
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stymingersfink
Feb 10, 2007, 12:58 AM
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headed out to the uinta basin this weekend, i'll post up on monday with results. anything on the wasatch front would probably not be safe to climb with current temps being what they are. if it keeps up the way it has the season may be over!
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natec
Feb 12, 2007, 10:24 PM
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After taking care of some business in SLC and hearing from everyone that there was nothing to climb there we made the drive down to Joe's Valley on the whim that something, anything would be in.
Unfortunately there is neither snow nor ice at Joe's at this point and it's probably safe to say that the season is over at Joes. There's simply nothing left.
I'm not ready to put the tools away, this is a bummer.
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stymingersfink
Feb 13, 2007, 1:38 AM
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the rain we received on sunday was not a good thing.
My partner drove down provo canyon that afternoon for an appointment in town, reported that the place is toast.
Probably game over, unless it gets cold for a real long time, and quick like.
Fucking global warming!
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natec
Feb 13, 2007, 4:06 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: Fucking global warming!
Amen to that bro.
Fuckin global warming.
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jahsh
Feb 13, 2007, 5:11 PM
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maybe ole gov. mikey leavitt from the epa could step in and declare war on pollution...they could drop bombs and send troops, create a frenzy of media histeria and make a bad situation even worse...wait isnt that what they did.
letting random fuctards run the world could result in injury or even worse.
sorry just venting, but last week in the valleys (slc&utah) were the worst i had ever seen...reminded me of the controlled burns in YNP (couldnt see the walls from the valley floor, less than a mile away)
climbed one last 'cicle friday in twelve mile canyons bear fork...it fell down sunday...what about last chance falls in logan?
but what does some random fuctard know
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builttospill
Feb 16, 2007, 1:45 AM
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I'm assuming that GWI is toast, but I want to confirm without driving all the way up there.
Is it climbable (even if not protectable)? Thanks.
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clipinmt
Feb 19, 2007, 5:54 PM
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sunday the GWI was still up there, it don't look to bad. Anybody been down to maple lately? looks like temps could be favorable. Warm days cold nights.
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bsmoot
Feb 20, 2007, 4:37 AM
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Don't know about Maple, but when I drove by on Friday, it looked like ACT was still touching down.
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wyjames
Feb 21, 2007, 8:39 PM
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clipinmt wrote: sunday the GWI was still up there, it don't look to bad. Anybody been down to maple lately? looks like temps could be favorable. Warm days cold nights.
Thanks for the updates everyone, we are coming to SLC this weekend and are hoping to find Ice -anything from WI4+ to easy TRs just want to be able to climb a bit.
Anybody know if GWI is still in? protectable? anywhere else like Ogden or Logan in?
Where would the closest ice be? Tetons? South fork? Lake Louise?
Gracias, James
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stymingersfink
Feb 22, 2007, 11:25 PM
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sounds like santaquin might still have a few lines in.
With the weather expected this weekend, I would be very careful about climbing in or near any kind of terrain traps. There have been 4+ avalanche fatalities in the past week, the latest one last night.
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stymingersfink
Feb 26, 2007, 4:38 AM
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drove down to Maple today with MT, intent on checking the lines DK reported in the pipedream/margarita caves area. Met in provo canyon to check the state of the ice there... white nightmare was looking pretty good, BVR was doable, stairway was looking like early-season conditions on P1-3, while P's 4&5 were still up from earlier in the season. Perhaps it snowed on the upper pitches instead of the rain on the lower stuff... don't know. MT said the Fang was rebuilding, but I didn't get eyes on it.
The road into maple has seen some traffic, there was only a couple of inches of packed snow on the road. Drove up to the forks, which was nice, as that cut some time off the hike.
Hiked up to Frankenchrist to check it out first... still in a rebuilding state, not too well bonded to the rock and with the sounds of water moving behind it. The shit looked dangerously thin, so we continued up to the pipedream.
The Ice 800 dagger was dripping wet... someone tried to goad me into mixing it up to the dagger itself, I wasn't having any of it, so we hiked around to the Margarita to find a quite remarkable piece of ice.
Perhaps the tube DK had reported before, but it was now a half-moon shape probably 8-10" thick at the base, sporting a 2-3" fracture about 4' up from ground level with no real sign of healing. The inside of the thing was dripping pretty well, the snow was falling about 1/2" per hour.
Left side was chandeliered as hell, making the bolt line impossible to reach, but the main face was looking pretty solid so that's what we climbed. The upper section was pretty solid, the bolts clippable, the top-out snow-covered terror. We both led the thing, then TR'd it a couple of times before leaving.
On the drive out we stopped and followed some boot tracks into the Box to check the ice. Cobble-cruncher was 4+ THIN at the top(maybe WI6 if someone were actually foolish enough to climb it in such conditions), Tied Off Stubbies was sporting some ice in forming state (still wouldn't even consider getting on it yet), Maple Moon had a few small icicles clinging to the rock, Maple Syrup had part of the upper column still remaining though the rest was trying to rebuild.
The top of climb 26(?) from JS's guide was visible above the lower falls, but without our gear with us we were stopped at the bottom of the 30' of WI2 in the bottom of the drainage.
All in all, I think we climbed on the only ice in the canyon still in climbing shape. Plenty of snow down there, just need some cold weather to get things growing again.
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natec
Feb 26, 2007, 5:09 AM
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Thanks for the updates. Looks like Lee Vining for me next week instead of Utah. At least it's starting to cool down a little.
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triassic
Feb 26, 2007, 5:19 AM
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Nice job Stymingersfink!!
It had to be very exciting with the conditions lately! The half circle bottom was about 4 inches thick when I did it , but there was only a horizontal crack without the 3 inches of seperation. Your blood had to be racing a little on that thing!
Good job!!
DK.
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stymingersfink
Feb 26, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Oh yeah, Forgot to mention we put some glasses on santaquin canyon during the drive down... it appeared that ACT and Candlestick were still hanging out, but no guarantees on how well they are bonded to the rock. Anything else up that way was not viewable from the highway, so their conditions are anyone's guess.
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clipinmt
Mar 8, 2007, 12:09 AM
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man that is some sweet looking ice where did you find that? any beta?
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jumar
Mar 9, 2007, 3:04 PM
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That IS sweet! I wanna go!
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00bg
Mar 13, 2007, 9:24 PM
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unfortunately, i was not present to send that juicy morsel. however, i was turned onto the photo-bucket after talking with one of the luck fellas.
as the (his) story goes, the intention was to engage in some wintertime canyoneering in zion, but having discovered ice at the start of a particular route, he hiked back to the car, drove back to slc, recruited a compitent ice climber, drove back down early in the morn, and sent.
he was vague (intentionally?) about its location. however, it became obvious when viewing the photos that the ice poured over the start to Englestead Hollow.
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clipinmt
Mar 14, 2007, 6:58 PM
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probably a pretty little waterfall by now. hummm, think of the possibilities. thanks
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