So I notice there's a single loop on one end to connect to harness, and two loops on the other end with one biner to anchor. Can you put a biner on each loop to clip two anchors?

Is there a good reason not to save a biner and girth hitch the whole thing to the tie in points?

I'd highly recommend a direct girth hitch and not using a biner.

Maybe the people in Majid's picture are using a biner for a particular reason... Majid?

what do you mean direct girth hitch to harness ?

I think he means girth hitching the loop created by the figure 8 on a bight directly to your belay loop instead of using a biner to attach this loop to your belay loop.

I've seen this before but really never gave it any thought.
How much cord might one need to make the purcell?
I'm beginning to like my thoughts here.

So I notice there's a single loop on one end to connect to harness, and two loops on the other end with one biner to anchor. Can you put a biner on each loop to clip two anchors?

I want to say about 12' of 6mm cord will be just about right. If you want it longer, then maybe 13' or 14'.

How long of a tether will this make when fully extended?

The one on the right is made up of 12' of 6mm. It's a little under 2', and all the way extended it's a hair over 3'.

1) The OP's link seems to indicate that some sliding of the prusik occurs during a fall. Is it correct that in a fall, the prusik will slide, thereby reducing the peak force of the fall?

2) What happens if you use a 2-wrap purcell prusik to clip into anchors instead of a 3-wrap?

I understand the hitch would slide at different amounts of force, but how does this affect the peak force the climber encounters? More generally, there is an optimal slipping coefficient that would minimize peak force for a specified cord diameter (e.g. 6mm) and specified maximal slipping length (e.g. 2ft) in a factor 1 or 2 fall?

3) Is it a bad idea to use 5.5mm tech cord as a purcell prusik, and why if so? Would it be bad because sliding/slippage could lead to material failure, or because peak forces would be higher because of the material, etc.?

4) I tie an overhand in my purcell prusik about 1.5 inches away from my harness tie-in point and clip my rappel device into the shelf created by the overhand, so that I can extend my rappel device away from me a bit (which makes it easier to clip backup prusik on my belay loop and onto the rope). Is this a bad idea for any reason? Specifically, does the purcell prusik become weaker to a point where I should be concerned?

5) Are there any hitches one can tie on a single line (instead of a loop of cord) that would be suitable for tying into rap anchors? For example, a tautline hitch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taut-line_hitch), tied on two separate cords, each of which is tied off to the harness (***NO*** idea how much force that hitch or the others would hold).

Having an adjustable tether is great, but if there was an clutter-minimal way to be clipped into two bolts, that would be even better. I realize that most people just girth hitch two slings (or worse, daisies) to their harness.. I would like something adjustable. And like someone else mentioned, clipping a carabiner to each of the two loops of the purcell prussik does not work well.

I have experimented with a single-line Purcell idea, but I don't have any testing data to prove it's viability, so take it as you will. Take the end of your cord, make a bight and use the end to tie a barrel knot on itself, making something like a noose. Use that loop to tie a prussic back on itself. Once in place, work the slack out until the barrel knot is snug against the prussic hitch.


If you figure that one out let me know!

I would not use it for two reasons:
1. You want the semi-dynamic properties of standard nylon cord (reduces peak force).
2. Tech cord has much less friction so it may not hold on itself as well as standard nylon. (Recommended knot for Tech cord is a triple fisherman's.)

5) Are there any hitches one can tie on a single line (instead of a loop of cord) that would be suitable for tying into rap anchors? For example, a tautline hitch (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taut-line_hitch), tied on two separate cords, each of which is tied off to the harness (***NO*** idea how much force that hitch or the others would hold).

Wow, I just had an idea...

While I use my PP on a regular basis, I know that tying in with the climbing rope is the easiest/simplest/strongest/no-extra-gear-est way to tie in. The problem is you've only got one rope to use to tie in (excepting doubles/twins).

So here's my idea: When tying in to the climbing rope, tie in with a good 4-5 feet of tail after your knot. This way when you get to a 2-bolt anchor you can clove hitch on one bolt as usual and then clove hitch/fig-8 into the other. Simple, no extra gear (save the second biner), elegant!

The only exception I can think of is if you need every last inch of your rope to get to the anchors. While I have heard of this potential problem, I have never personally experienced it.

Hmm interesting idea. I usually just tie a two-loop 8...

I'm not sure I'd be a fan of that since I can't stand having a big tail in the way when I'm clipping. I almost always tuck the tail back into my figure-8.

I'm just having a hard time envisioning this vs. clove hitching the loop of rope between me & my belayer/last piece into the anchor.

I'll try again:

Tie in to the rope (i.e. fig-8) as usual except tie in so you have a 5 foot tail after your knot.

When you arrive at a 2 bolt anchor, take that 5' tail and clove hitch that to the first bolt. Then pull up some slack from your lead line and clove hitch that to the second bolt.

Ta da!

so now you are tied in to two points, without the need of extra gear.

however, i have another question. you climb to the top of a multipitch route, and now you have to rappel down. how do you tie in to the anchors to pull the rope to set it at the rap station for the next pitch down??

or does this clove hitching thing only works in single pitch routes??

Well, I only came up with this idea just yesterday so I hadn't thought through all scenarios. For raps I would use a separate system (Purcell, slings, etc).

does this clove hitching thing only works in single pitch routes??

the extra figure-8 tail tether idea for 2 bolts is interesting, but is this for belaying or setting up to rapel?

I have my own variation on the Prucell. My desire was to incorporate a loop to rappel from.

The top left loop is to clip into an anchor. The small cord, a klemheist (but Prusik works too), is to adjust the length of the lanyard.

The loop with the black plastic protector is where I clip to my harness.

Note that the small Klemheist cord is wrapped around the orange cord a few times under the black plastic. This guarantees that when clipping to this loop, you have clipped both the orange cord and the small Klemheist cord. (the black plastic also makes it easy to identify what loop goes onto the harness)

Lastly, there is a short loop for rappelling off of. I sized it to my preference for a short, extended-rappel.

The big knot is a figure-8 with 3 passes of cord in it. (Note that the bottom end of the figure-8 has only 2 cords used for the loop, so the third cord is tied in a small stopper knot)



Thoughts?