What's a gumby? I always thought a "noobie" was a new and potentially dangerous leader, so is a gumby a safe but mid-level leader?

What's a gumby?

In my experience its pretty rare to hear Seneca climbers spraying about what they climbed and how hard they are. In contrast, areas like Salt Lake and Boulder have a high concentration of climbers congregating in one spot so its easier to spray about your latest tick. At Seneca people come, climb, and then go there separate ways.

Heh. I still have not checked out Seneca since I moved east, and part of the reason I have not yet is because I have gotten the impression that it is a gumby-fest riddled with falling rocks and idiots.

I haven't looked at the article yet.

Heh. I still have not checked out Seneca since I moved east, and part of the reason I have not yet is because I have gotten the impression that it is a gumby-fest riddled with falling rocks and idiots.

I haven't looked at the article yet.

I heard it was because you were scared.

Yes, fat traddies yarding on choss does scare the hell out of me.

Yes, fat traddies yarding on choss does scare the hell out of me.

Absolutely. Definitely better for you to stay in grade inflated e-climbing land where you and yours can spray to your heart's content - you know - stick to what you are good at.

why do you care if someone calls you a gumby or not (or for anything else for that matter). Just go out and pull down and see what YOUR limit is.
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I also thought that the photography was pretty lame for such a photogenic place. And am I correct that they used a fish-eye lens to shoot Madmen, making it look steeper than it really is?

Damn. I guess I'll have to make a trip out to Seneca just to piss you guys off.

I had a similar reaction about the criticism of the "locals" (who live in DC and PGH). It did give credit to Seneca for its hard grades and singled out Gunsight to South Peak as a truly fantastic climb at 5.4.

However, the idea that no one climbs Castor, Pollux, Orangeaid, Nip and Tuck, etc. is wrong. I've seen plenty of people on those climbs. The whole, "we were being watched closely by locals because we were on 5.10s" bit was kind of lame. The article published back in '98 was better.

Let's see you hot shots get on some of the Eddie Begoon climbs! .

Begoon routes are great. That guy could crimp! Routes by by Begoon, Prothro, Swoager, and Shull always stand out.

What's a gumby? I always thought a "noobie" was a new and potentially dangerous leader, so is a gumby a safe but mid-level leader?
If so, I'm fine being a gumby.

Back then when I was breaking into leading 5.10s at Seneca, one day I managed to struggle and huff my way up Mongoose. A few days latter while chatting with Tony Barnes, I mentioned to him that I felt Mongoose was really hard for a 5.10a comparing to other 5.10a. He bursted out laughing and said "Do you know who put up that route? It's Eddie Begoon. He doesn't know what a 5.10a is".

I've climbed all over the U.S. and I can honestly say, in most trad climbing areas, if you climb 5.10 or 5.11, you rarely have to stand in line. It's not a grade most people reach when climbing trad.

My two cents

Yes, you'd get many 10 and 11 leaders at The New, for example, but if they came to Seneca, they'd be on the 8's and having a great time. Different styles of climbing.

It's an article written by someone who hasn't spent much time at Seneca so it's hardly surprising that it's superficial and somewhat misleading. It's also Rock and Ice so what do you expect?

Edit:

It's not really a bad article but it's kind of silly to think anyone will notice or care if you climb 5.10-5.11 there. Nice to see Hunt and Ray get some play.

One surprise thing was they didn't do any climbs at the "Face of a thousand pitons" but instead spending time at the Southern Pillar and lower slab.

Has anyone ever done Ambush?

I've never even seen it but the photos make it look pretty cool.....its not that thing that comes out to the left of the cave is it? The start to muscle beach?

Has anyone ever done Ambush?

Ambush is ok. If you go over there, you could check out Daytripper Direct which is a very nice and fairly challenging 5.11. Daytripper itself is often a little damp and not that exciting but the direct continuation of the regular route is worthy.

Good to know, I don't get over to the Southern Pillar much. I only know a handful of good 11s at Seneca so its always nice to find something else to check out. You recommend anything else?

While I can see that the article is a bit silly/inflammatory all you butthurtz whiners are just making it worse.

Good to know, I don't get over to the Southern Pillar much. I only know a handful of good 11s at Seneca so its always nice to find something else to check out. You recommend anything else?

We really don't care about grades. We climb for ourselves, and nobody else. We could care less what anyone thinks, but don't ever say we only climb easy routes.

In the same area, you can do Judgment Seat which is one of the better 5.10s at Seneca and, from the Judgment Seat itself at the end of the first pitch, exit the alcove to the right and follow a sweet stemming/edging corner past some fixed pro and nuts/cams at moderate 5.11. It's not in the guidebook but it is good.

For you, I would also recommend the Samurai Wall. Really great thin quartzite face/crack routes. Each route is real 5.12. It's on the West Face below Front C. Easy to check out on toprope first.

You could write the same exact article about Joshua Tree for gods sakes. Let it go.

That's because there are only a handful of good 11 there. If you haven't done so, check out The Socerer. It goes up the Pleasant Overhang roof on the right side. The climbing is quite good but doesn't see much traffic so it can be licheny. Another one is Kosher Critter (direct?) on the far right side of the critter wall. It's only 10d but very nice climbing. Combining both sections and it's a nice long pitch. Ambush is ok to play on only when it gets too hot to climb everywhere else.

No I will never let it go. We are climbers that only care about having fun on the rock. We could care less about grades, but don't dare say we don't climb hard routes!

You don't climb hard routes.

So that's what those bolts out of overhand are! Cool, I'll check that out too.

Sounds like I'm gonna have a good day out next time I'm in Seneca.

You don't climb hard routes!

You don't climb hard routes!

I would assume cclarke is referring to Projected Futures, Ronin, and Hishiryo if you want to check the guidebook. They look thin, scary, and beautiful!

Autumn Fire and the Changeling are nice if you haven't been on them. Helter Skelter is also worth getting on. It is 10c in the guidebook but felt like an 11 to me.

In the same area, you can do Judgment Seat which is one of the better 5.10s at Seneca and, from the Judgment Seat itself at the end of the first pitch, exit the alcove to the right and follow a sweet stemming/edging corner past some fixed pro and nuts/cams at moderate 5.11. It's not in the guidebook but it is good.

For you, I would also recommend the Samurai Wall. Really great thin quartzite face/crack routes. Each route is real 5.12. It's on the West Face below Front C. Easy to check out on toprope first.

I would assume cclarke is referring to Projected Futures, Ronin, and Hishiryo if you want to check the guidebook. They look thin, scary, and beautiful!

Autumn Fire and the Changeling are nice if you haven't been on them. Helter Skelter is also worth getting on. It is 10c in the guidebook but felt like an 11 to me.

Damn Projected, Ronin and Hishiryo look serious.

I've done Changeling. Really good. I''ll try the others

Low Octane, just to the left of Nip and Tuck is also very good. For some reason, I never saw anyone on it. I assume that you've already done the classic Terra Firma.

Yeah....not yet. I'd like to onsight that one so I've held off on it till now. Been working on my stetch pro abilities and I might try it this season.

Have you done it?

Yes. It took me a couple tries as the sequence isn't obvious to me at all. The footwork was intricate. The gear is straight forward because there aren't many. I took quite a whipper too.

Encouraging to hear that the gear (or at least some of the gear) held. The way I heard it, there were some suspect micro nuts that might not be worth placing. I don't mind running it out provided when you find some pro, its got a fighting chance it'll stick.