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cahuitaboy
Dec 2, 2010, 12:56 PM
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My friends and i are starting to climb harder routes and its a pain to sit there for ever holding onto the rope with a reverso. Which should i get a grigri or a cinch? i tend to use my right as a brake hand but honestly it doesnt make much of a difference which hand i belay with. Let me know
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NJSlacker
Dec 2, 2010, 2:23 PM
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ur gonna die...
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jo247
Dec 2, 2010, 2:28 PM
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NJSlacker wrote: ur gonna die... indeed.
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carabiner96
Dec 2, 2010, 2:33 PM
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cahuitaboy wrote: My friends and i are starting to climb harder routes and its a pain to sit there for ever holding onto the rope with a reverso. Which should i get a grigri or a cinch? i tend to use my right as a brake hand but honestly it doesnt make much of a difference which hand i belay with. Let me know Meh, I usually use whichever tuber I grab first a majority of the time, and save the gri gri for toproping or fatties.
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carabiner96
Dec 2, 2010, 2:37 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: cahuitaboy wrote: My friends and i are starting to climb harder routes and its a pain to sit there for ever holding onto the rope with a reverso. Which should i get a grigri or a cinch? i tend to use my right as a brake hand but honestly it doesnt make much of a difference which hand i belay with. Let me know Meh, I usually use whichever tuber I grab first a majority of the time, and save the gri gri for toproping or fatties. Ok, side story. A gri gri was my first belay device - like very first (back when they were $60!) I got it because I thought people would see the gri gri and think I would be a safer belayer and I'd make lots of friends and we could have hair braiding parties at the base of routes. Oh, and because people would inherently mistrust a one handed belayer with a tuber device. Well, 10 years later, no one's braided my hair but I've logged an inane amount of hours belaying with no problems yet. Moral of the story? Use what you are most comfortable with, not what you think you should have or looks the coolest or "this thing must be more rad because its $95"
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Jooler
Dec 2, 2010, 6:25 PM
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I've used a friends cinch and I didn't like it. I find the rope runs smoother through a grigri and the grigri is easier to use in general (personal opinion). If you choose a grigri however, maybe wait til spring as Petzl is releasing their new version of it then...smaller, lighter... Edit: Grigri2: http://www.petzl.com/en/video/grigri2
(This post was edited by Jooler on Dec 2, 2010, 6:27 PM)
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rock_fencer
Dec 2, 2010, 6:31 PM
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cinch feeds faster and is lighter than the Gri-Gri Version 1.0. In general i use a tube style device for anything that isnt toproping or aid in reality it doesnt really matter. If your partner is just dogging the shit out of a route and hes just resting, then learn how to tie him off with a mule knot T
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brokesomeribs
Dec 2, 2010, 9:38 PM
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Trango Cinch, without a doubt. It's lighter, cheaper, and smaller than a GriGri. The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. The Cinch passes the rope through perfectly unbent and through a slightly larger cavity... it's science. Additionally, the only real safe method to feed rope quickly through a GriGri is slightly awkward, hence most people just squeeze the cam with their hand.... which causes idiots to drop their friends every year. The Cinch is much more intelligently designed, IMO. The upcoming GG2 may change some of my above complaints, but the Cinch is still definitely cheaper. Since I like it so much, I have no intention of switching.
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jakedatc
Dec 2, 2010, 9:50 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: Trango Cinch, without a doubt. It's lighter, cheaper, and smaller than a GriGri. The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. The Cinch passes the rope through perfectly unbent and through a slightly larger cavity... it's science. Additionally, the only real safe method to feed rope quickly through a GriGri is slightly awkward, hence most people just squeeze the cam with their hand.... which causes idiots to drop their friends every year. The Cinch is much more intelligently designed, IMO. The upcoming GG2 may change some of my above complaints, but the Cinch is still definitely cheaper. Since I like it so much, I have no intention of switching. Yep, notice the guy who posted it hasn't actually used it for very long. It takes practice and you can't think of it like a gri gri. Plus if you ever have issues Mal is a great resource that is almost always reachable by PM or email. Vote: Cinch
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gosharks
Dec 2, 2010, 10:52 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: Additionally, the only real safe method to feed rope quickly through a GriGri is slightly awkward, hence most people just squeeze the cam with their hand.... which causes idiots to drop their friends every year. Eh? No more awkward than the entire act of belaying...
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currupt4130
Dec 2, 2010, 11:06 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: Trango Cinch, without a doubt. It's lighter, cheaper, and smaller than a GriGri. The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. The Cinch passes the rope through perfectly unbent and through a slightly larger cavity... it's science. Additionally, the only real safe method to feed rope quickly through a GriGri is slightly awkward, hence most people just squeeze the cam with their hand.... which causes idiots to drop their friends every year. The Cinch is much more intelligently designed, IMO. The upcoming GG2 may change some of my above complaints, but the Cinch is still definitely cheaper. Since I like it so much, I have no intention of switching. My vote is for the Cinch as well. A word of advice though, learn how to use it properly. Don't think of it like a Grigri, they don't work the same way. Everyone likes a Grigri because you can pick it up, hold the cam down, throw rope and act like you're belaying and feel safe about it because it's an "auto locking device" or "locking assist" (which is more appropriate). Get a Cinch, become proficient with it, and you'll hate using a Grigri. It will feel un-natural, clumsy and slow. I'll get you started on learning to use it too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9TO5ikqXwo
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brokesomeribs
Dec 2, 2010, 11:08 PM
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The new technique that Petzl put out in '08 is substantially better than the old/classic technique they endorsed, but still lacking. You have to wrap your thumb around the lever, hook your pointer finger under the bent lip on the face of the grigri, and then pull rope through. It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. The Cinch has none of those shortcomings. The act of holding it in the normal belaying position also allows it to instantly feed rope, just by virtue of hand position. And definitely watch the video above. For what it's worth, ignore the "counter-intuitive" remark that Mal makes. it's only counter-intuitive because the world is used to 20 years of GriGri clumsiness.
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Jooler
Dec 2, 2010, 11:12 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. Jooler wrote: I've used a friends cinch and I didn't like it. I find the rope runs smoother through a grigri and the grigri is easier to use in general (personal opinion). So what you're saying is how I found the cinch vs grigri...my PERSONAL opinion...is wrong? You're implying that what I was actually feeling was that the cinch was feeding smoother and it was easier to use? Crazy!
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brokesomeribs
Dec 2, 2010, 11:27 PM
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Jooler wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. Jooler wrote: I've used a friends cinch and I didn't like it. I find the rope runs smoother through a grigri and the grigri is easier to use in general (personal opinion). So what you're saying is how I found the cinch vs grigri...my PERSONAL opinion...is wrong? You're implying that what I was actually feeling was that the cinch was feeding smoother and it was easier to use? Crazy! I sure am. I know your thoughts. Trust me, I have ESPN. If I wanted your opinion, I would have given it to you. And being serious for a second.... you're entitled to prefer the GriGri. It's irrelevant to me which belay device you choose. However, you can't claim that a GriGri feeds smoother - it's physically impossible (unless you were using the Cinch improperly). When feeding rope, the Cinch passes the rope in a straight line over the cam - effectively zero friction. The GriGri wraps the rope in a nearly 180 degree bend around the cam. There is no way, under proper operating conditions, either theoretical or practical, whereby a GriGri can feed rope smoother than a Cinch. QED
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redlude97
Dec 2, 2010, 11:37 PM
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Jooler wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. Jooler wrote: I've used a friends cinch and I didn't like it. I find the rope runs smoother through a grigri and the grigri is easier to use in general (personal opinion). So what you're saying is how I found the cinch vs grigri...my PERSONAL opinion...is wrong? You're implying that what I was actually feeling was that the cinch was feeding smoother and it was easier to use? Crazy! Your opinion was based on poor technique. Period. A cinch in the hands of a properly trained belayer is smoother and faster than a gri gri. That is a fact. You just cant overcome the physics involved.
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Jooler
Dec 2, 2010, 11:41 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote: Jooler wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: The previous poster who mentioned that a GriGri feeds smoother is outright wrong. Jooler wrote: I've used a friends cinch and I didn't like it. I find the rope runs smoother through a grigri and the grigri is easier to use in general (personal opinion). So what you're saying is how I found the cinch vs grigri...my PERSONAL opinion...is wrong? You're implying that what I was actually feeling was that the cinch was feeding smoother and it was easier to use? Crazy! I sure am. I know your thoughts. Trust me, I have ESPN. If I wanted your opinion, I would have given it to you. And being serious for a second.... you're entitled to prefer the GriGri. It's irrelevant to me which belay device you choose. However, you can't claim that a GriGri feeds smoother - it's physically impossible (unless you were using the Cinch improperly). When feeding rope, the Cinch passes the rope in a straight line over the cam - effectively zero friction. The GriGri wraps the rope in a nearly 180 degree bend around the cam. There is no way, under proper operating conditions, either theoretical or practical, whereby a GriGri can feed rope smoother than a Cinch. QED Haha thanks for the laugh Perhaps I was using the Cinch incorrectly, I really didn't like it, therefore I'll probably never know! (as I highly doubt I'll give it another shot...yea stubborn). I wonder what the GriGri2 will be like...perhaps it will be "physically possible" for it to feed smoother, eh?
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Jooler
Dec 2, 2010, 11:45 PM
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Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri?
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rocknice2
Dec 2, 2010, 11:59 PM
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Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? The technique to feed rope fast is easier to master wjth the Cinch than the GG. It just fits properly in the hand. 3 finger on brake @ 2 controlling Cinch. I have both, got the GG first and 5 years later bought a Cinch. Never picked up the GG again. The GriGri does a better job for top ropping.
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Jooler
Dec 3, 2010, 12:05 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? The technique to feed rope fast is easier to master wjth the Cinch than the GG. It just fits properly in the hand. 3 finger on brake @ 2 controlling Cinch. I have both, got the GG first and 5 years later bought a Cinch. Never picked up the GG again. The GriGri does a better job for top ropping. Perhaps its time I give the Cinch another try then... Edit: a quick search answered my question
(This post was edited by Jooler on Dec 3, 2010, 12:07 AM)
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rocknice2
Dec 3, 2010, 12:13 AM
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A friend gave me a Smartt. It works OK, very light but kind of flimsy. Multi pitch I just grab a BD Guide and craging I use the Cinch.
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bill413
Dec 3, 2010, 2:24 AM
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Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? They are slightly different. They are both relatively easy to use AS LONG AS YOU LEARN HOW TO USE THE DEVICE. They do not operate the same, and some folks prefer one, some folks prefer the other. You will probably find the one you practice with the most to be easiest.
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gosharks
Dec 3, 2010, 8:39 AM
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brokesomeribs wrote: It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. I actually think that the "new" method is smoother than just grabbing the entire device. Looping the brake end of the rope over the lip critically improves the smoothness of pulling the rope through. Then again, I can't say that I have all a bunch of experience using the traditional method. I picked up the "new" method off of 8a.nu well before it was the officially recommended method (shortly after I had started using a GriGri.)
(This post was edited by gosharks on Dec 3, 2010, 8:40 AM)
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billcoe_
Dec 3, 2010, 4:22 PM
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Get one of each. BTW, learn to use each hand.
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jt512
Dec 3, 2010, 7:52 PM
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gosharks wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. I actually think that the "new" method is smoother than just grabbing the entire device. Looping the brake end of the rope over the lip critically improves the smoothness of pulling the rope through. Really? I think it does just the opposite. I haven't used the "new" method much, but it seems to me that looping the rope over the lip of the grigri creates additional friction, making it more difficult to feed rope smoothly. Jay
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caughtinside
Dec 3, 2010, 8:22 PM
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bill413 wrote: Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? They are slightly different. They are both relatively easy to use AS LONG AS YOU LEARN HOW TO USE THE DEVICE. They do not operate the same, and some folks prefer one, some folks prefer the other. You will probably find the one you practice with the most to be easiest. I learned the grigri first, and felt very comfortable using it. I got a cinch to try out, more for fun than anything else. It wasn't intuative for me, and I never felt as solid with the cinch as with the grigri. Not saying this is a flaw with the cinch, they just require a different belay technique. I gave up on the cinch because I already had so much belay time in on the grigri where I felt solid, and didn't get enough benefit from using the cinch to warrant switching devices.
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mtclimberjd
Dec 3, 2010, 9:49 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: ... Get a Cinch, become proficient with it, and you'll hate using a Grigri. It will feel un-natural, clumsy and slow. I'll get you started on learning to use it too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9TO5ikqXwo Agreed. The vid above is essential for learning to use the Cinch. Of course, you can always let go of the brake strand like I see many people with gri gris do if you don't like the proper method (as long as you're no where near me ). Another tidbit for using the Cinch that isn't in the video - when your leader takes a big fall and the Cinch gets cammed tight enough that torquing downward doesn't open it up, you can use your top, rope feeding hand to push on the cam plate to open it as you pull more rope. It might not be obvious at first but eventually it becomes second nature when grabbing rope after the device is locked. So there's definitely a learning curve compared to an ATC or Reverso but once you're up to speed it's an awesome device for lead belays (and as invaluable as the Reverso / ATC Guide for belaying a follower in autoblock). JD
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bill413
Dec 3, 2010, 11:54 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: BTW, learn to use each hand. Critical. I was in a place yesterday where it was far preferable to use my left hand as the brake hand.
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gosharks
Dec 3, 2010, 11:54 PM
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jt512 wrote: gosharks wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. I actually think that the "new" method is smoother than just grabbing the entire device. Looping the brake end of the rope over the lip critically improves the smoothness of pulling the rope through. Really? I think it does just the opposite. I haven't used the "new" method much, but it seems to me that looping the rope over the lip of the grigri creates additional friction, making it more difficult to feed rope smoothly. Jay Well, I'm not exactly putting the rope in contact with the entire lip, or much of it at all. Try bending the brake end back towards you a little bit (like this http://www2.8a.nu/eng/pics/sterkygrigri.jpg ) and compare to having the rope run in the same plane as the GriGri. Holding my 10.1 rope bent back like that, I don't even have to press the cam down to feed rope unless it is a quick clip.
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jt512
Dec 4, 2010, 12:42 AM
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gosharks wrote: jt512 wrote: gosharks wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. I actually think that the "new" method is smoother than just grabbing the entire device. Looping the brake end of the rope over the lip critically improves the smoothness of pulling the rope through. Really? I think it does just the opposite. I haven't used the "new" method much, but it seems to me that looping the rope over the lip of the grigri creates additional friction, making it more difficult to feed rope smoothly. Jay Well, I'm not exactly putting the rope in contact with the entire lip, or much of it at all. Try bending the brake end back towards you a little bit (like this http://www2.8a.nu/eng/pics/sterkygrigri.jpg ) and compare to having the rope run in the same plane as the GriGri. That's exactly how I've done it. Jay
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redlude97
Dec 4, 2010, 2:47 AM
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caughtinside wrote: bill413 wrote: Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? They are slightly different. They are both relatively easy to use AS LONG AS YOU LEARN HOW TO USE THE DEVICE. They do not operate the same, and some folks prefer one, some folks prefer the other. You will probably find the one you practice with the most to be easiest. I learned the grigri first, and felt very comfortable using it. I got a cinch to try out, more for fun than anything else. It wasn't intuative for me, and I never felt as solid with the cinch as with the grigri. Not saying this is a flaw with the cinch, they just require a different belay technique. I gave up on the cinch because I already had so much belay time in on the grigri where I felt solid, and didn't get enough benefit from using the cinch to warrant switching devices. Many people who start on the grigri find the cinch harder to use, but to say it is less intuitive than the grigri? The grigri is probably the least intuitive belay device there is.
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rocknice2
Dec 4, 2010, 5:28 AM
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gosharks wrote: Holding my 10.1 rope bent back like that, I don't even have to press the cam down to feed rope unless it is a quick clip. That's just it you can yard very hard on the rope with a Cinch and always have fingers on the brake. I've seen guys feeding a rope fast through a GriGri as well. The technique is a bit simplar with a Cinch.
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gosharks
Dec 4, 2010, 8:46 AM
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rocknice2 wrote: That's just it you can yard very hard on the rope with a Cinch and always have fingers on the brake. Same with a GriGri. A Cinch definitely requires less force to feed rope though. I don't use an ATC much for lead anymore, and it feels like I feed rope quicker with a GriGri than ATC.
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madscientist
Dec 4, 2010, 3:48 PM
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There are people very firmly in the Cinch or the GriGri camp. I use both frequently, and use the new method for both. Thus, I use the method in the video posted earlier, and the new method endorsed by Petzl. I find that the Cinch is easier to feed, but the difference between the two would not make me recommend one over the other. I believe that the new GriGri method is safer than the old method (just saw someone almost deck the other day when they slipped off while clipping; the belayer did not get their hand back to the rope fast enough; she was using the old method). The new method is also a little harder to get used. I prefer lowering on the GriGri and find that it is easier to deal with when someone is dogging a route. The cinch feeds rope great and I prefer it when the climber is actually climbing. Considering you are complaining about holding the rope while someone is dogging a route, I would lean a little (and very little) towards a GriGri.
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caughtinside
Dec 4, 2010, 4:47 PM
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redlude97 wrote: caughtinside wrote: bill413 wrote: Jooler wrote: Is a Cinch easier to use than a GriGri? They are slightly different. They are both relatively easy to use AS LONG AS YOU LEARN HOW TO USE THE DEVICE. They do not operate the same, and some folks prefer one, some folks prefer the other. You will probably find the one you practice with the most to be easiest. I learned the grigri first, and felt very comfortable using it. I got a cinch to try out, more for fun than anything else. It wasn't intuative for me, and I never felt as solid with the cinch as with the grigri. Not saying this is a flaw with the cinch, they just require a different belay technique. I gave up on the cinch because I already had so much belay time in on the grigri where I felt solid, and didn't get enough benefit from using the cinch to warrant switching devices. Many people who start on the grigri find the cinch harder to use, but to say it is less intuitive than the grigri? The grigri is probably the least intuitive belay device there is. Hmm, I worded that poorly. I didn't mean to imply that the grigri belay was more intuitive than the cinch belay for someone who hadn't used either. I had someone coaching me on using the grigri when I learned, and then I used it for about 5 straight years. When I got the cinch, I read the instructions and watched the vid, but didn't know any experienced climbers who used one, and I felt vulnerable from my inexperience with the device. I decided that the pro, which was to take a lighter auto locker on multipitch climbs wasn't worth it. I ended up just going back to a tube style for multipitch anyway and the grigri for cragging and sport.
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spikeddem
Dec 4, 2010, 6:32 PM
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jt512 wrote: gosharks wrote: jt512 wrote: gosharks wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: It's awkward, and worse, it still doesn't feed as smooth as grabbing the cam (AKA "the death belay") which is what ends up happening all over the country as n00bs think they're safer. I actually think that the "new" method is smoother than just grabbing the entire device. Looping the brake end of the rope over the lip critically improves the smoothness of pulling the rope through. Really? I think it does just the opposite. I haven't used the "new" method much, but it seems to me that looping the rope over the lip of the grigri creates additional friction, making it more difficult to feed rope smoothly. Jay Well, I'm not exactly putting the rope in contact with the entire lip, or much of it at all. Try bending the brake end back towards you a little bit (like this http://www2.8a.nu/eng/pics/sterkygrigri.jpg ) and compare to having the rope run in the same plane as the GriGri. That's exactly how I've done it. Jay I agree with gosharks. By looping the break strand over the lip (with a bit larger radius in the bend than what is shown in the 8a.nu photo), the tangent of the rope's path as it enters the grigri seems to align perfectly with the grigri to minimize the rope's resistance to entering the device.
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K-Tanz
Dec 4, 2010, 10:59 PM
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I have a cinch and will never go back to a gri-gri. I have found that the Cinch feeds slack much easier than the gri-gri and I like how it catches right away. I will say the gri-gri is easier to lower people with, especially if they are heavy. I've seen this debate a lot before and it seems that usually what a person learned on is what they prefer. I can't speak for the gri-gri 2 though. One thing to remember with auto-locking devices is that they are the opposite of idiot proof. If your belayer is inexperienced with the device and they, say, grab the rope above the device during a fall (which happens), it may not lock and you have just gone french fry when you wanted to go pizza. Whatever you get just make sure to know the operation inside and out so you don't end up a skid mark
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jakedatc
Dec 5, 2010, 12:58 AM
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madscientist wrote: There are people very firmly in the Cinch or the GriGri camp. I use both frequently, and use the new method for both. Thus, I use the method in the video posted earlier, and the new method endorsed by Petzl. I find that the Cinch is easier to feed, but the difference between the two would not make me recommend one over the other. I believe that the new GriGri method is safer than the old method (just saw someone almost deck the other day when they slipped off while clipping; the belayer did not get their hand back to the rope fast enough; she was using the old method). The new method is also a little harder to get used. I prefer lowering on the GriGri and find that it is easier to deal with when someone is dogging a route. The cinch feeds rope great and I prefer it when the climber is actually climbing. Considering you are complaining about holding the rope while someone is dogging a route, I would lean a little (and very little) towards a GriGri. why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. lowering with the Cinch takes practice and perhaps a redirect off your leg loop. Belay gloves have improved this for me immensely.
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gosharks
Dec 5, 2010, 1:37 AM
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jakedatc wrote: why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. Considering that the GriGri requires little to none of this, I would consider it easier to deal with.
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jakedatc
Dec 5, 2010, 2:20 AM
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gosharks wrote: jakedatc wrote: why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. Considering that the GriGri requires little to none of this, I would consider it easier to deal with. 1/2 second difference doesn't exactly make up for the short comings of the Gri gri the rest of the time.
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vegastradguy
Dec 5, 2010, 3:26 AM
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gosharks wrote: jakedatc wrote: why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. Considering that the GriGri requires little to none of this, I would consider it easier to deal with. neither does the cinch, actually. slight pressure on the back of the release handle with your thumb quickly and easily releases the cinch when the climber unweights the rope.
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brokesomeribs
Dec 5, 2010, 9:06 AM
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gosharks wrote: jakedatc wrote: why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. Considering that the GriGri requires little to none of this, I would consider it easier to deal with. None of that is necessary. It just takes a slight modulation of thumb pressure on the rotating plate. Your right hand is already in position, you don't even need to move it off the Cinch (unlike a GriGI) to pop the release open. I frequently belay my 240lb buddy in the gym. He locks up my Cinch like a boss. Neither device is objectively "better" than the other. Each one has nuances that need to be understood to use them in the best/safest/smoothest fashion. The GriGri lowers better, the Cinch feeds smoother. Pick your poison. All that matters is that the belayer using the device is well trained and experienced with his chosen device.
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madscientist
Dec 5, 2010, 3:21 PM
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jakedatc wrote: madscientist wrote: There are people very firmly in the Cinch or the GriGri camp. I use both frequently, and use the new method for both. Thus, I use the method in the video posted earlier, and the new method endorsed by Petzl. I find that the Cinch is easier to feed, but the difference between the two would not make me recommend one over the other. I believe that the new GriGri method is safer than the old method (just saw someone almost deck the other day when they slipped off while clipping; the belayer did not get their hand back to the rope fast enough; she was using the old method). The new method is also a little harder to get used. I prefer lowering on the GriGri and find that it is easier to deal with when someone is dogging a route. The cinch feeds rope great and I prefer it when the climber is actually climbing. Considering you are complaining about holding the rope while someone is dogging a route, I would lean a little (and very little) towards a GriGri. why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. lowering with the Cinch takes practice and perhaps a redirect off your leg loop. Belay gloves have improved this for me immensely. I find the GriGri easier to unlock while someone is dogging a route. I don't have to do things like jump, and stepping forward is not always an option since I try to belay under the first bolt so I don't get pulled off my stance. I did not say that the Cinch is hard to deal with, just that the GriGri is easier to deal with. The longer handle also makes lowering easier, but I also have no problems lowering with the Cinch. I just find that lowering with the GriGri is easier.
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camhead
Dec 5, 2010, 4:12 PM
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I still go for the gri gri, use it for 99% of all belays. It might not be more "intuitive," but it is definitely more universal and status quo right now. I think that it is definitely easier to mess up with a cinch than with a gri gri.
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naitch
Dec 5, 2010, 4:21 PM
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Have and use both. For me they both have their uses: Grigri: TRing, and sport climbing but only when I know the leader is going to be excessively dogging and is heavier than me. Cinch: most sport climbing and trad (when only bringing up one, otherwise BD guide). For me, the Cinch feeds much easier and quicker and I tend to prefer it.
(This post was edited by naitch on Dec 5, 2010, 8:41 PM)
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jakedatc
Dec 5, 2010, 10:58 PM
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madscientist wrote: jakedatc wrote: madscientist wrote: There are people very firmly in the Cinch or the GriGri camp. I use both frequently, and use the new method for both. Thus, I use the method in the video posted earlier, and the new method endorsed by Petzl. I find that the Cinch is easier to feed, but the difference between the two would not make me recommend one over the other. I believe that the new GriGri method is safer than the old method (just saw someone almost deck the other day when they slipped off while clipping; the belayer did not get their hand back to the rope fast enough; she was using the old method). The new method is also a little harder to get used. I prefer lowering on the GriGri and find that it is easier to deal with when someone is dogging a route. The cinch feeds rope great and I prefer it when the climber is actually climbing. Considering you are complaining about holding the rope while someone is dogging a route, I would lean a little (and very little) towards a GriGri. why? Cinch should stay locked the same as a gri gri. To "unlock" the Cinch when someone is getting back on the route i step forward a step or do a little hop and it takes the pressure off and lets you feed smoothly again. lowering with the Cinch takes practice and perhaps a redirect off your leg loop. Belay gloves have improved this for me immensely. I find the GriGri easier to unlock while someone is dogging a route. I don't have to do things like jump, and stepping forward is not always an option since I try to belay under the first bolt so I don't get pulled off my stance. I did not say that the Cinch is hard to deal with, just that the GriGri is easier to deal with. The longer handle also makes lowering easier, but I also have no problems lowering with the Cinch. I just find that lowering with the GriGri is easier. I also do the thumb push that Vegas mentioned and doesn't involve any moving. And by jumping i mean a very small hop.. and even then it probably isn't necessary. I will give you that Gri Gri's are easier to lower larger people on fat ropes. other wise it is really not a big deal. I think folks who have learned on a gri gri have a harder time on the Cinch due to muscle memory that is not transferable. I learned on an tube device and went straight to Cinch. (only used Gri gri for top roping) So i think the Gri gri is giant and clumsy.
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anarkhos
Dec 6, 2010, 9:38 PM
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If you're tired of holing the brake hand, you're getting an auto-lock for the wrong reason. It's posts like yours that make me feel queasy. For what it's worth, I absolutely hate the GriGri, even though its the first belay device I learned to use. The whole pinch-to-release mechanism blows. I've known two people who were dropped on a GriGri because the natural reaction when surprised is to grab something. I've also been short-roped on a GriGri more than any other device and refuse to lead anything hard when climbing for the first time with a GriGri user. They're also heavy and dirty the rope quickly. Longest whipper I took was when being belayed on a GriGri because the user pulled out a lot of slack when I was clipping. It also doesn't bite on thin ropes well. The cinch, on the other hand, is awesome and if you hold it the way I do there is a positive "pinch" motion to grip the rope which I love. Reversing the motion un-grips the rope and I can give out slack as the leader pulls it and quickly take out unused slack. I gave one to my then-GF and never got short roped or dropped. It's great on multi-pitch and I've used it to self-belay on top-ropes (Trango says don't do this). It also works as a hand ascender although not very well (sucks as any other kind of ascender like foot, et cetera). Another great feature is you can clip it to and un-clip it from a weighted rope which makes escaping the belay quick and easy, or when you need to pass a knot. I'm not aware of any other belay device that can do this other than one's butt. The part that mostly rubs against the rope is steel so it doesn't dirty it as quickly, and it works well on thin ropes. What's not to like? GriGri: D- Cinch: A
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gosharks
Dec 6, 2010, 9:57 PM
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anarkhos wrote: If you're tired of holing the brake hand, you're getting an auto-lock for the wrong reason. It's posts like yours that make me feel queasy. For what it's worth, I absolutely hate the GriGri, even though its the first belay device I learned to use. The whole pinch-to-release mechanism blows. I've known two people who were dropped on a GriGri because the natural reaction when surprised is to grab something. I've also been short-roped on a GriGri more than any other device and refuse to lead anything hard when climbing for the first time with a GriGri user. They're also heavy and dirty the rope quickly. Longest whipper I took was when being belayed on a GriGri because the user pulled out a lot of slack when I was clipping. It also doesn't bite on thin ropes well. Sounds like you need to find some people that actually know how to properly use a GriGri.
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spikeddem
Dec 6, 2010, 11:39 PM
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anarkhos wrote: If you're tired of holing the brake hand, you're getting an auto-lock for the wrong reason. It's posts like yours that make me feel queasy. I agree.
In reply to: For what it's worth, I absolutely hate the GriGri, even though its the first belay device I learned to use. The whole pinch-to-release mechanism blows. This is not how the gri-gri should be used. Issue #1 solved.
In reply to: I've known two people who were dropped on a GriGri because the natural reaction when surprised is to grab something. Besides the fact that we shouldn't be so taken aback by a falling climber that we forget how to use the brake end of the rope...there's also the fact that the "correct" style of belaying with a gri-gri would not have this issue. This is related to your first point, so I'll still consider this as only Issue #1 solved.
In reply to: I've also been short-roped on a GriGri more than any other device and refuse to lead anything hard when climbing for the first time with a GriGri user. Well, damn, sounds like we're still dealing with Issue #1.
In reply to: They're also heavy and dirty the rope quickly. Weight: I agree, relative to a Cinch. That said, I don't climb while carrying it, so it doesn't matter to me. Dirty the rope? How so? Describe to me why they would dirty the rope before a cinch would. The part that touches the rope touches nothing but the rope. I've never experienced any dirtiness from my gri-gri.
In reply to: Longest whipper I took was when being belayed on a GriGri because the user pulled out a lot of slack when I was clipping. How can you blame this on the gri-gri? I mean, you even follow up the word "because" with "the user" not "the device."
In reply to: It also doesn't bite on thin ropes well. This is true.
In reply to: The cinch, on the other hand, is awesome and if you hold it the way I do there is a positive "pinch" motion to grip the rope which I love. I don't really know what you're talking about here.
In reply to: Reversing the motion un-grips the rope and I can give out slack as the leader pulls it and quickly take out unused slack. Hmm. Sounds like you're still comparing to any non-optimal way of belaying with a gri-gri.
In reply to: It also works as a hand ascender although not very well (sucks as any other kind of ascender like foot, et cetera). Gri-gri too.
In reply to: Another great feature is you can clip it to and un-clip it from a weighted rope which makes escaping the belay quick and easy, or when you need to pass a knot. I'm not aware of any other belay device that can do this other than one's butt. This is, as far as I know, true.
In reply to: The part that mostly rubs against the rope is steel so it doesn't dirty it as quickly Again with the dirty. Where's the dirt coming from? This is like a long version of gosharks post, but whatever. I'm not some grigri fanatic. I have one, it works well. I support a cinch just as much, but there's a lot of crap that gets spit out about the grigri.
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anarkhos
Dec 7, 2010, 12:56 AM
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It dirties the rope because the part that grips the rope is made of aluminum. I would think that was obvious.
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adam14113
Dec 7, 2010, 1:01 AM
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grigri all the way. haters gonna hate
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gosharks
Dec 7, 2010, 1:05 AM
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anarkhos wrote: It dirties the rope because the part that grips the rope is made of aluminum. I would think that was obvious. You're wrong. Why would you even think that it is made of aluminum?
In reply to: stainless steel cam and friction plate http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-devices/grigri
(This post was edited by gosharks on Dec 7, 2010, 1:06 AM)
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anarkhos
Dec 7, 2010, 1:12 AM
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Well it certainly seems to dirty the rope quicker. Maybe because it rubs against the rounded-off side plate when being lowered.
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joeforte
Dec 7, 2010, 1:13 AM
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adam14113 wrote: grigri all the way. haters gonna hate He makes a very valid point, although the cinch is still better, just because.
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robinsmv
Dec 7, 2010, 1:17 AM
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anarkhos wrote: It dirties the rope because the part that grips the rope is made of aluminum. I would think that was obvious. What about aluminum would make a rope dirty? If it does then this means everyone using an aluminum tube device and aluminum biners is making their rope dirty quicker.
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redlude97
Dec 7, 2010, 1:40 AM
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robinsmv wrote: anarkhos wrote: It dirties the rope because the part that grips the rope is made of aluminum. I would think that was obvious. What about aluminum would make a rope dirty? If it does then this means everyone using an aluminum tube device and aluminum biners is making their rope dirty quicker. Welcome, noob
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anarkhos
Dec 7, 2010, 2:05 AM
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I suppose it could also come down to how people typically use a GriGri, that being top-roping and hang-dogging (instead of actual climbing) thus grinding away at the anchor biners. Personal experience YMMV. Regardless, would still rather be belayed by anything else.
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gosharks
Dec 7, 2010, 2:10 AM
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anarkhos wrote: Regardless, would still rather be belayed by anything else. I wouldn't let somebody that doesn't know how to properly use a GriGri belay me with one either.
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bill413
Dec 7, 2010, 4:42 AM
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gosharks wrote: anarkhos wrote: Regardless, would still rather be belayed by anything else. I wouldn't let somebody that doesn't know how to properly use a GriGri belay me with one either. +1
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spikeddem
Dec 7, 2010, 5:12 AM
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hahah. this thread is sooooooooooooo just...ugh. god.
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Dec 7, 2010, 5:13 AM)
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spikeddem
Dec 7, 2010, 5:15 AM
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bill413 wrote: gosharks wrote: anarkhos wrote: Regardless, would still rather be belayed by anything else. I wouldn't let somebody that doesn't know how to properly use a GriGri belay me with one either. +1 i agree too. Saying something like "would still rather be belayed by anything else [other than a grigri] just shows a very fundamental lack of understanding the device..and...dare i say...belaying?
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spikeddem
Dec 7, 2010, 5:16 AM
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spikeddem wrote: bill413 wrote: gosharks wrote: anarkhos wrote: Regardless, would still rather be belayed by anything else. I wouldn't let somebody that doesn't know how to properly use a GriGri belay me with one either. +1 i agree too. Saying something like "would still rather be belayed by anything else [other than a grigri] just shows a very fundamental lack of understanding the device..and...dare i say...belaying? nah. just the device.
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carabiner96
Dec 7, 2010, 1:27 PM
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anarkhos wrote: It dirties the rope because the part that grips the rope is made of aluminum. I would think that was obvious. Oh, obvi, bro!
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madscientist
Dec 7, 2010, 3:06 PM
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spikeddem wrote: hahah. this thread is sooooooooooooo just...ugh. god. I am starting to agree with this comment. There is a lot of noise that needs to be filtered. Whatever device someone buys, they have to learn how to use it correctly. It sounds like people are giving advice based on not being able to use one device or the other correctly, thus they hate it. Both devices are good belay devices that are not difficult to use, but you must learn how to use them correctly. Once you do, then you will find that the difference between the two is small. The Cinch is lighter and it is easier to feed the rope. Again, it is not difficult to feed the rope with a GriGri. Fat ropes (fat 10.5, 11) can be difficult to feed in a Cinch, I have seen the GriGri not lock on a 9.4 (which is below the recommended diameter). To the credit of the GriGri, the belayer held on to the brake strand and nothing bad happened, so the device still worked fine. I took from that experience that the Cinch works better on thin ropes, and it is approved for thinner ropes. Lowering on the Cinch takes some getting used to, as does unlocking it after someone has fallen. In my opinion, this makes the GriGri easier to deal with when someone is dogging a route, especially someone like my 200+ pound friend who has a habit of falling with no warning. Since I use both frequently, I have no trouble lowering with either. I just find the GriGri easier, but it is not difficult to lower with the Cinch (the new version that is, the old version was a different story). One final thing, the Cinch is cheaper, and if money is an issue there is no reason to not to choose the Cinch.
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jt512
Dec 7, 2010, 4:40 PM
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madscientist wrote: The Cinch is lighter and it is easier to feed the rope. Again, it is not difficult to feed the rope with a GriGri. Fat ropes (fat 10.5, 11) can be difficult to feed in a Cinch, I have seen the GriGri not lock on a 9.4 (which is below the recommended diameter). These problems are reportedly alleviated by the Grigri 2, due out in March 2011, which got rave reviews from attendees of the last Outdoor Show in Utah. If I were contemplating buying a Grigri, I'd wait till the Grigri 2 was available. Jay
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madscientist
Dec 7, 2010, 7:45 PM
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jt512 wrote: madscientist wrote: The Cinch is lighter and it is easier to feed the rope. Again, it is not difficult to feed the rope with a GriGri. Fat ropes (fat 10.5, 11) can be difficult to feed in a Cinch, I have seen the GriGri not lock on a 9.4 (which is below the recommended diameter). These problems are reportedly alleviated by the Grigri 2, due out in March 2011, which got rave reviews from attendees of the last Outdoor Show in Utah. If I were contemplating buying a Grigri, I'd wait till the Grigri 2 was available. Jay I would also recommend waiting until the GriGri 2 is out to make a decision on either device.
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spikeddem
Dec 7, 2010, 8:06 PM
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madscientist wrote: jt512 wrote: madscientist wrote: The Cinch is lighter and it is easier to feed the rope. Again, it is not difficult to feed the rope with a GriGri. Fat ropes (fat 10.5, 11) can be difficult to feed in a Cinch, I have seen the GriGri not lock on a 9.4 (which is below the recommended diameter). These problems are reportedly alleviated by the Grigri 2, due out in March 2011, which got rave reviews from attendees of the last Outdoor Show in Utah. If I were contemplating buying a Grigri, I'd wait till the Grigri 2 was available. Jay I would also recommend waiting until the GriGri 2 is out to make a decision on either device. I'd recommend buying two GriGri 1's. Just playing a bit of Devil's advocate.
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anarkhos
Dec 14, 2010, 7:11 PM
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madscientist wrote: ...I have no trouble lowering with either. I just find the GriGri easier, but it is not difficult to lower with the Cinch (the new version that is, the old version was a different story). One final thing, the Cinch is cheaper, and if money is an issue there is no reason to not to choose the Cinch. Lowering with either the original or "improved" cinch is easy if you use your left hand and place your thumb under the pivot for the plastic handle.
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joeforte
Dec 15, 2010, 5:47 AM
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anarkhos wrote: madscientist wrote: ...I have no trouble lowering with either. I just find the GriGri easier, but it is not difficult to lower with the Cinch (the new version that is, the old version was a different story). One final thing, the Cinch is cheaper, and if money is an issue there is no reason to not to choose the Cinch. Lowering with either the original or "improved" cinch is easy if you use your left hand and place your thumb under the pivot for the plastic handle. Having owned both, I agree
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csproul
Dec 15, 2010, 1:05 PM
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joeforte wrote: anarkhos wrote: madscientist wrote: ...I have no trouble lowering with either. I just find the GriGri easier, but it is not difficult to lower with the Cinch (the new version that is, the old version was a different story). One final thing, the Cinch is cheaper, and if money is an issue there is no reason to not to choose the Cinch. Lowering with either the original or "improved" cinch is easy if you use your left hand and place your thumb under the pivot for the plastic handle. Having owned both, I agree I also own and use both. While the Cinch is "easy" to lower with if you use this technique, the Grigri is still better while lowering/rapping. Try using a Cinch to rappel with a very heavy haulbag and then try it with a Grigri, and there'll be no question which one is smoother. Same with lowering a heavy person. In general, however, I prefer belaying with a Cinch.
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camhead
Dec 16, 2010, 2:08 PM
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Someone should try to combine the two devices, so that you get the easy rope feed of the cinch, but the safety of a gri gri. The result would look like this:
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csproul
Dec 16, 2010, 2:31 PM
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The Gri-grinch!
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bill413
Dec 16, 2010, 2:59 PM
Post #72 of 74
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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camhead wrote: Someone should try to combine the two devices, so that you get the easy rope feed of the cinch, but the safety of a gri gri. The result would look like this: [image]http://sofura.blogg.se/images/2008/grinch3_18101208.gif[/image] Are you sure you don't get the reverse combination?
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robinsmv
Dec 16, 2010, 3:11 PM
Post #73 of 74
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Registered: Mar 20, 2010
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bill413 wrote: camhead wrote: Someone should try to combine the two devices, so that you get the easy rope feed of the cinch, but the safety of a gri gri. The result would look like this: [image]http://sofura.blogg.se/images/2008/grinch3_18101208.gif[/image] Are you sure you don't get the reverse combination? I think it would depend on which device is the mother and which is the father, kinda like a liger vs a tiglon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liger vs. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiglon
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camhead
Dec 16, 2010, 5:49 PM
Post #74 of 74
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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bill413 wrote: camhead wrote: Someone should try to combine the two devices, so that you get the easy rope feed of the cinch, but the safety of a gri gri. The result would look like this: [image]http://sofura.blogg.se/images/2008/grinch3_18101208.gif[/image] Are you sure you don't get the reverse combination? What, a Cri Cri? That makes no sense at all.
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