I am analyzing an accident report where two climbers were trad climbing a multi-pitch wall and lead climber was carrying the second rope coiled up on his day-pack however, he took a fall, belay lost control of the belay and leader decked ( lead rope fell to the ground) leaving belayer three pitches up with no backup rope to rap.

Anyone wants to take guess on why leader was carrying the second rope with him instead of clipping behind his harness or letting second carry it up ?

I am analyzing an accident report where two climbers were trad climbing a multi-pitch wall and lead climber was carrying the second rope coiled up on his day-pack however, he took a fall, belay lost control of the belay and leader decked ( lead rope fell to the ground) leaving belayer three pitches up with no backup rope to rap.

Anyone wants to take guess on why leader was carrying the second rope with him instead of clipping behind his harness or letting second carry it up ?

the belayer was a weakass noob?

not sure why the leader was carrying it in his pack, but as for the second not taking it, unless the second was going to put it in his pack, I've always been under the impression that the leader takes it in case it becomes snarled somewhere. In other words, the second has a better chance of fixing a CF with it.

I dunno, otherwise?, maybe the leader was a stronger climber and it made sense for him to take the second rope?

sucks that the dude fell. here's hoping he's OK.

more importantly, why did the lead rope go through the second's belay device? Three pitches up and he wasn't tied in? Sounds odd, even if they were untying to switch belays.

It was the end of the daylight hours. Leader was going to fix the next pitch and rap back down for the night. That pitch was longer than half a rope length.

Edit: I don't know why the leader wouldn't trail the second rope in my explanation.

Now, why wasn't the system closed on the lead rope?

3rd to 4th pitch had an 8 m traverse so rapping back to p3 was out of question. I am guessing that he did not the weak n00b carry the rope.

so that if his belayer dropped him, he'd be stuck mid route without a rope

yes, she was stuck on the wall with no rope to rap and needed a rescue.

if you actually climbed you'd be able to figure it out i'm sure

that weakass noob probably climbs better than ya

consider the time that it takes to restack the second rope each pitch as a possible reason as to not trailing it

the question to ask is why wasnt she tied into the same rope ... and if not how did she anchor herself ... if all this is even real ...

if you actually climbed you'd be able to figure it out i'm sure

that weakass noob probably climbs better than ya

consider the time that it takes to restack the second rope each pitch as a possible reason as to not trailing it

the question to ask is why wasnt she tied into the same rope ... and if not how did she anchor herself ... if all this is even real ...

well, this was a disaster from the beginning and i am trying to figure out why leader was carrying the rope. sure he was stronger and more experience but still, numbers do not add right.

Anyways, both ended up ok.

well, this was a disaster from the beginning and i am trying to figure out why leader was carrying the rope. sure he was stronger and more experience but still, numbers do not add right. .

Guy decked from the 3rd pitch and is ok? Sounds like he's doing something right.

I am really getting tired of you chasing me around in RC so please stay out of my way before you piss me off.

Thanks for your cooperation and move on.

you still havent asked or answered the relevant question ... why wasnt the second tied in properly???

if you actually climbed you'd be able to figure it out i'm sure

that weakass noob probably climbs better than ya

consider the time that it takes to restack the second rope each pitch as a possible reason as to not trailing it

the question to ask is why wasnt she tied into the same rope ... and if not how did she anchor herself ... if all this is even real ...

im confused. how could this possibly happen? what the hell was the second doing not tied into the rope?

a leader with a trail line in a pack is odd, but i've seen weirder things. not that unusual.

dont like being asked questions mista majid? ... you seem to have no issue telling everyone how stupid they are and how they will die

well tough luck its a free world ... i simply asked the relevant question and provided a possible explanation on the pack

you still havent asked or answered the relevant question ... why wasnt the second tied in properly???

whether the rope is in the leaders pack, the seconds pack or trailing isnt really a relevant issue if the both climbers are tied in properly ... as you would know from climbing you can fall on lead anytime ...

You said rope so I would guess not but ...

Was the second rope a "single" rope or perhaps a skinny tag line. Plenty of times I've led with the skinny tag line on my back when my second has our water, jackets, and a little extra food.

it was 50 m 10.2 mm

show me one post out of 7000+ threads to my name that I called people stupid and they were going to die.

come on, start searching

you are going to DIE

leader took a n00b for a ride and set everything up including fixing all anchors so on the last pitch (3rd) he had to do 7-8 m traverse to the left and then continue upward. At that point, he takes fall and n00b hits the wall ( possibility of some sort of redirect) and she loose it, rope runs thru her hands and burns them pretty bad. When she gain consciousness she was still holding the rope but then she drops it and leader falls another 2m till rope drops to the ground.

Again these were short pitches (18m,20m,20m) and first rope was a 60m and second rope was 50 m.

The belayer was much less experiened, so the leader wanted to make her task as simple as possible, hence no pack or trailing rope for the second.
[snip]
The worst mistake here is obviously (doh!) the second not being tied in. Due to crazy luck both survived. Glad to hear that.

She even had hard time tying fig 8 so on every anchor, she untie the fig 8 and retie before following the leader.

[quote "majid_sabet" She even had hard time tying fig 8 so on every anchor, she untie the fig 8 and retie before following the leader.

ah yes, just what someone who isnt sure how to tie in should do- untie from the rope and then re-tie in without supervision. 100' up. nice.

im confused. how could this possibly happen? what the hell was the second doing not tied into the rope?

You and me both. And I'm further confused about how the leader decked from three pitches, but escaped injury.

He basically took this inexperienced girl on a multi-pitch expedition and he was babysitting her . She even had hard time tying fig 8 so on every anchor, she untie the fig 8 and retie before following the leader. leader also noticed that she was too weak to carry anything so he decided to carry the second rope on him before he fell.

Thanks all

who does 20m pitches on a route you could link together?

What leader would ever leave a multipitch belay when their 2nd wasn't tied in?

If the belayer was actually unconscious i have no idea how they would hold the belay if it was weighted.. i don't see that happening.

sounds like a bunch of gumbies. blind leading the blind. or the figment of majidiots imagination

Doing short pitches is common when leading someone inexperienced. One, so you can see and communicate with them. Two, less rope stretch in case they fall, especially if there's a low crux.


Not much of a leader, that's who. Someone who also lacks basic common sense.



I have heard of someone who died still with a death grip on the break strand. I actually DO believe this COULD happen. Not that it actually did, but it is possible.


Watch the personal attacks. You don't want to upset the rc gods

Josh

as someone who's had like 5' of rope burn from a slipping rope i can say that after trying to regain a rope going that fast there is no way they could be holding on.. their hand would be trashed.

this isn't A/I he's in the deep end now

You and me both. And I'm further confused about how the leader decked from three pitches, but escaped injury.

I call BS. There is NO WAY that a leader would have her do that. That is perhaps the stupidest thing I have ever heard on here (and that is saying something).

Josh

He survived but I did not mention the extend of his injuries.

Are you implying there were extensive injuries? Because what you said was: "Anyways, both ended up ok."

You clearly know enough English to know the difference between those two statements.

he also claims to have more experience than he actually does and proves it every time he asks these stupid questions that should be easy to figure out.

jake

do you have a GF ?

you blow gasket left and right dude.

jake

do you have a GF ?

you blow gasket left and right dude.

Yep, and she climbs more, harder and smarter than you.

jake

the way you write about girls just tells me that you loose your virginity not too long ago. an experienced climber never says stuff like this about women

jake

the way you write about girls just tells me that you loose your virginity not too long ago. an experienced climber never says stuff like this about women

You mean because an experienced climber like you would never say anyone climbs harder & smarter?

Even in majidiots imaginary world girls don't talk to him. Might be the bodies in his basement for "research"

jake

your GF may be strong climber but what really keeps the girl aint climbing but a hard and strong di*$ which do not have.

WOW.

jake

your GF may be strong climber but what really keeps the girl aint climbing but a hard and strong di*$ which I do not have.

Well, this thread has take an interesting turn. Why doesn't everybody just pull them out, take a pic and post them. Then we can end this train wreck.

Josh

I am new to climbing so when i stumbled across RC.com I thought cool!, climbers discussing climbing but after reading a few of the threads. I came to this conclusion
Majid is a douch!

Now if we can all agree (and I believe most of us do), Then we can get back to discussing climbing.

Such as, What is this talk about tying in to the lead rope? You use the static end? What knot, a double 8?