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jakedatc
Mar 9, 2006, 2:46 AM
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Funny... i like the multi loops better than the single sling. my reasoning. Oranization.. especially when i guess wrong and want to replace that cam back into at least the general area of sizes.
while you can't throw all of a multi loop behind you.. at least some will stay behind you.. on slab constantly having to toss the single sling back out of the way is annoying.
and finally.. trying to pull something out of the middle of the single sling.. you'd better have Euro's color coded biner/cams
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brent_e
Mar 13, 2006, 6:39 PM
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this thread deserves a bump, methinks.
Brent
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scrappydoo
Mar 13, 2006, 8:30 PM
Post #53 of 112
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Posts: 139
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SWEET:
MontBell Thermawrap-- awesome; lightweight synthetic down coat, weighs as much as a cotton t-shirt
Mammut 8mm contact slings-- especially the triple-length one (red), lightest webolette ever.
Schoeller soft-shell material--
Trango Superfly wiregates-- best clipping lightweight biner out there, even for Ogre-sized hands, cheaper than other lightweights
La Sportiva-- anything they make (even their 'approach flops' are the tits)
Kong oval lockers-- light(er) weight, keylock, lots of space, excellent
Prussiks-- nothing beats the lightweight versatility of 8mm cord
BD Mittens-- sweet
Petzl Mini-Traxion-- best ratcheting pulley out there, weight is worth replacing pulley/prussik combo
HB Offset micronuts-- they place where nothing else can.
SOUR:
BD auto-locking biners-- F those man (autolock sticks on nose, keeping gate open)
BD Spaceshot Headlamp-- unless you're into seizure-inducing strobe lighting (intensity changes every 2 secs). This lamp SUCKS: heavy, burns through batteries, not bright (for it's weight), external battery pack poorly designed for attaching to helmet/clothing, wiring from light to batteries too short, AND it's like $90.
WC Heliums-- doesn't clip well at all, especially for an $11 biner
Petzl Ultralegere pulley wheel-- easily the most useless piece of climbing-related gear ever made
Jackets w/out two-way zip-- why do companies continue to advertise these jackets for 'climbing' when you have to wear the hem above your belly button to belay?
SWEET & SOUR:
BD Neutrinos-- good biner, but much better/cheaper out there
Trango Cinch (1st generation)-- cheaper/lighter than GriGri, but bad for lefthanders; GriGri much more versatile
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iamthewallress
Mar 13, 2006, 8:47 PM
Post #54 of 112
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Stuff I Dig:
Camalot C4's...Yes, they're noticably better all the way around than the older model.
Aliens that don't fall apart.
HB Offset Nuts...Oh, when will the return?
CAMP Nanowires...Feel just like BD neutrinos, but so much lighter.
Petzl Ball Lock Carabiners...Peace of mind times 3.
...to be continued...
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brent_e
Mar 16, 2006, 1:02 AM
Post #55 of 112
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Dig:
Marmot Talus (old style) Backpack. I use it everyday. Had it for 4 years and beaten the crap out of it. Load it with books, occasionally loaded it with gear (before I got an Eiger), and it is only showing some fuzz. it has a great sunglass holder and I can reach the zips on the back while wearing it. Love it! :D It's like a male version of a purse.
Brent
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iamthewallress
Mar 16, 2006, 1:26 AM
Post #56 of 112
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Stuff that Sux
Dovals. Quite possible the worst carabiner innovation since the dogboneshaped biner keychain. There's nothing like cruxin' and shouting to the cruel mountain gods, "Which side of this fucker opens?!?!"
Wild Country Flexi-Friends. At least the vintage that I used to own. Between the grippy teeth and the limited retraction range these things are so hard to clean compared to BD, Aliens, or Metolius.
Stuff sized "small" for 165 lb. men. Includes lots of stuff that would be on my rah, rah list if it fit: Any wall gear that is size specific, including harnesses and haulbags, by most manufacturers, Gramicci quickdry pants, and hand jammies.
The Omega Pacific Wall Hammer. Might be good if you're Paul Bunyon. I couldn't even hold the thing one handed.
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healyje
Mar 16, 2006, 1:33 AM
Post #57 of 112
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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Big Wall Gear for Women - now there's a teaming and underserved market..
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landgolier
Mar 16, 2006, 3:07 AM
Post #58 of 112
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Posts: 714
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Hmm, guess I should put up a few more, this thread is really going.
Hot Shit:
Leatherman Micra - Heavier than a tiny little single blade, but worth it. Scissors on this thing are sooo much more useful than having pliers.
Plasti-dip - liquid duct tape
DMM 4CU's, sizes 2-4 - Perfect fits in a couple sizes where camalots are weird, and so light you almost reach for the one that's way too big because a cupped hands cam is supposed to feel heavy.
Regular old nylon 4' (double shoulder length) slings - Tied or sewn. Mammuts are nice and all, but when you want to sling some gooey pine tree, and would rather clip both ends than leave a girth hitch on a thing, these are what the doctor ordered. Wear 'em out and then put them on dog leash duty.
Steaming Piles:
#1 forged friend - Not dissing on a classic, but this is just too small for a rigid stem cam. Maybe in a perfect splitter, but for most placements the stem is too close in size to the cams and you have to fiddle a bit.
Rolled rap rings and quicklinks - thousands of dollars in gear and hours of time invested in the sport, and some people still won't leave a $5 biner behind. Suck it up.
Headlamps that have both led and conventional bulbs, but don't have independent switces - Speaks for itself. LAME.
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climbingbetty22
Mar 16, 2006, 3:24 AM
Post #59 of 112
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 1538
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Dig
Petzl Elios helmet- I got a small melon. The number 1 size actually fits me and doesn't make me look like a giant 'schroom.
La Sportiva Women's Katanas- I love their edgy goodness and the fit- oh-la-la!
BD Hotwire biners- I just like their feel
Bluewater Accelerator- even after a couple seasons this thing still has a buttery-soft hand.
Aliens- I know, I've read all the stuff about their recent fall from grace. But I've checked mine out, they don't have that little punch. And they still place so well.
Salomon XA Pro 3D- I just picked up a pair for $30. LOVE 'EM
Patagonia Capilene Underwear- their sports bra and thongs are the bomb!
Sux
Marmot Eiger pack- I've had this for years but I've never really loved it. The suspension just doesn't carry well on my frame.
Metolius Power Cams- I almost never place these. They are just so awkwardly sized.
Metolius Curved Nuts- I hate these things, I think they are so awkward to place.
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euroford
Mar 16, 2006, 3:43 AM
Post #60 of 112
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Posts: 2913
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dig:
the petzl ecrin rock lid. comfy, burly, ventlated nicely. did i mention burley? if i'm going to take hooks, dinnerplates or rocks on my head this is the lid i want. i feel like superman in my helmet. i actually like wearing it. i put it on and i'm like "ggggggggrrrrr, ready for battle!! yarrrr!!!" my rock pirate persona takes over and i'm ready to go.
sucks:
the bd halfdome helmet. i dropped it, and it broke. WTF.
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brent_e
Mar 16, 2006, 3:53 AM
Post #61 of 112
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In reply to: dig: the petzl ecrin rock lid. comfy, burly, ventlated nicely. did i mention burley? if i'm going to take hooks, dinnerplates or rocks on my head this is the lid i want. i feel like superman in my helmet. i actually like wearing it. i put it on and i'm like "ggggggggrrrrr, ready for battle!! yarrrr!!!" my rock pirate persona takes over and i'm ready to go. sucks: the bd halfdome helmet. i dropped it, and it broke. WTF.
:lol: :lol:
You should either put a bandana print or an actualy bandana on your lid, or wear a dandana over your mouth when wearing your ecrin! Yar
my halfdome cracked a bit, too...when i landed on it and a crampon hit it... long story.
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brent_e
Mar 16, 2006, 5:54 AM
Post #63 of 112
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HA! sweet!!
soon you'll look like this!!!
(cool, i got it to work!)
bwahahahhah
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anykineclimb
Mar 16, 2006, 6:33 AM
Post #64 of 112
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
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Sweet sticker! where the ehck you get that thing?!
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kimgraves
Mar 23, 2006, 5:12 AM
Post #65 of 112
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After last weekend's trip to Mt Washington, I have a couple of things to add to the "pile of shit" list.
JetBoil cooking system. This is a great idea that simply doesn't work in the cold. It's very convenient, very well thought out BUT it didn't work in the 0 degree temperatures we experienced.
1) Even with 4-season fuel, we had to use a candle under the fuel to get it to be hot enough to be functional.
2) Getting the caps off the bottom were impossible with gloves on. But luckily we had those two caps (we were carrying two separate cups) because we used them to balance the stove over the candle. But of course we had to be very careful so that we didn't knock over the precariously balanced unit.
3) The unit easily boiled over which send water all over and causing potential safety problems.
4) It was hard to disengage the cup part from the stove part. It just wasn't smooth. It locked up in the cold.
5) We were in a shelter. Given all of the above, it would have been very difficult to use the stove in a tent.
This would be a good summer stove, but it's not a good winter unit. We've heard of the trick of running a copper wire around the unit and into the flame to keep it warm. But it takes BTU's to do that - BTU's that could be used to cook the food/melt the water. So in effect you end up carrying extra gas to make the unit functional.
Leki trekking poles: I use these poles because of my bad knees. I've used them successfully in summer and last time I was on Washington when it was warmer. This time the poles worked fine in the relatively warmer valley. But they failed when I got above tree line and the temperature fell to 0 or below. Then the poles wouldn't lock the end telescoped in and out. I stowed the pole until we got down to below treeline. Then using the stove we heated the little plastic part that locks the pole in place. The pole once again worked. Interestingly enough, another hiker passed me who also had Leki poles and he said one of his had failed as well.
I assume that plastic part spring that locks the poles has a operative working temperature and I and the other hiker were below that. It may have been -10 degrees but certainly no lower. -10 is just not that cold. If you need to have your poles remain adjustable at or below that temperature, keep this in mind.
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Dec 31, 2006, 8:18 PM)
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nedsurf
Mar 23, 2006, 6:26 AM
Post #66 of 112
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Yeah kim, I second the report on the Jetboil. It does not do well in the cold. I haven't found a good replacement for my old, handed down whisperlite. The jetboil is a convenient stove for other stuff though.
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thetroutscout
Mar 23, 2006, 6:31 AM
Post #67 of 112
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Registered: Jun 23, 2004
Posts: 388
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I dig:
MSR Pocket Rockett matched with a titanium kettle. So freakin light and boils so freakin fast!
Anything made with eVENT fabric. My tent and jacket I love.
Evolv Shoes - High performance, affordable, comfy, stylish shoes. Did I mention their customer service can't be beat?
Mad Rock Mad Pad - Big and cheap.
Petzl harnesses - I can't find anything that fits and feel like a Petzl.
MH Softshell jackets - Weather proof, warm and stylish.
LED flashlights - Saves me batteries and weight.
Sucks:
OP D-ovals - I don't think I've ever opened one when it was facing the right way. They move and jump around and I hate them!
Petzl Tibloc - Rope killer! Rope killer. I've never used one and not had a problem.
Metolius Belay Device - The only bad thing ever to come from Metolius - what where they thinking??
^^ike
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euroford
Apr 17, 2006, 2:44 PM
Post #68 of 112
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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about time to bump this back up and add a couple of new things.
items i've recently aquired that i'm very impressed with:
Petzl Williams Ball lock biners: i recently scored 4 of these ($$$ bling bling $$$) for future use as dedicated powerpoints in my anchors on my wall project, of course i've been using them for other stuff in the meantime and i've come to appreciate these as an absolutle artwork of biner design. this year the ball locks use a metal locking sleve and a larger button = even safe and also easier to use. these things got it all, huge to swallow mass quantities of bigwall clusterfrig, a keynose design to make it easy when its time to break the pitch down, the safest locking mechanism out there and very lightweight for the size.
montrail D7 wall shoes: these came highly recomended, so i had some pretty high expectations. well, they lived up and surpassed. comfy, sticky rubber and with the very stiff sole that are exceptionally comfy in aiders. i'm really looking forward to doing a bunch of scrambling, low 5th trad and tons of aid climbing in these.
BD contour treking poles: i've been a major resistor of getting some trecking poles. i'll admit i've even more than once thought "loooook at zee goofy dorks wit zee poles yar har har" a couple of times. well i started breaking down when allot of climbers way more experienced than i started seriously recomending them for humping gear to the diamond this summer. i totally caved when i twisted my ankle a couple of weekends ago but wanted to go to the crags anyways. this saturday i surely set a personall record for speed and minimal exhaustion blasting up the CCC trail en route to devils lakes east bluffs climbing area. despite the still tender ankle and the 50lb load of solo aid gear. i guess these things actually work.
but i still feel like a dorky treker. LOL
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kimgraves
May 9, 2006, 9:39 PM
Post #69 of 112
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Time to bump this thread back on top by giving an update on my Leki Makalu trekking pole problem that I described above.
I returned them to Tent & Trails where I bought them....
(An aside: for those of you who live in NYC, you know just what a pain it is to go to Tent & Trails because of the two owners. However Mitch, the manager and buyer really knows his shit better than anyone else in town. AND he can find things in the mess. So ignore the owners on the first floor and just head down to the basement where Mitch hangs out.)
and Mitch listened to my story - "the poles stayed locked in the cold, but once I unlocked them to adjust them they wouldn't relock" - and called the district saleswomen. She told him it was a known problem! She authorized Mitch to replace them. But the replacements Mitch had in stock looked exactly like the ones I had, so how would that help me? Mitch called back and Leki asked that I return my poles for inspection. Mitch mailed my poles back and Leki replaced them with the new model - the old ones were blue, the new gray.
I'm going to have to wait till next winter to see if this is a real fix, but I was real pleased with how Mitch and Leki responded. Trophy for Mitch and Leki customer service. I'll let you know whether the new poles also get a trophy next season.
Best, Kim
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euroford
Jun 12, 2006, 3:38 PM
Post #70 of 112
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i've probobly mentioned this thing earlier in the thread, but i thought it would be worth brining back up.
my car camping tent of choice has been the Mountain Hardware Light Wedge 3 for about the past 6 years. i'm sure i've spent over 100 nights in this thing and its really been to hell and back.
over memorial day weekend we camped in it and i just noticed that it was absolutly filthy. so last week i brought it to the laundromat with me, tossed it and the fly into a large front loader along with some woolite. then against MH's recomendations i threw it into the dryer on 'warm'.
man, it looks just brand new. other than one spot where i patched a burn from my primus lantern this thing is basicly no diffrent from the day i bought it. i went over every square inch of the tent and fly and patched one small area where the seam goop i had applied pealed off a bit.
i also have a MH trango2 tent that has served me well, but it hasn't seen much milliage. in fact, the 3 season light wedge has seen way more brutal weather than the 4 season trango.
just a damn well built nice tent.
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pastprime
Jun 12, 2006, 5:31 PM
Post #71 of 112
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Registered: Jul 7, 2005
Posts: 251
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I am wild crazy nuts about my Mont Bell Ultralight Super Stretch Down Hugger #2 sleeping bag. 6 1/2" of loft, warm as a ridiculously narrow bag, but lets my cramped tired legs and body sprawl all over in any position I want; and only weighs 1 pound 13 ounces. Comfy into low 20's so far.
MSR pocket rocket. Teeny, light, ferociously hot, and I like the case.
Wild Country Rockcentrics. Took a lot to pry me away from a lifelong relationship with Hexentrics, but these are lighter, easier to place, and don't come out on their own once they are in place.
Backpacking / base tent: Tarptent squall 2. Weighs 2 pounds 2 oz. complete; very roomy for two, fits 3 by alpine climber standards, great design, but not a small footprint or snow tent.
Dislike:
Tiblocks. Should be called Rope Destroyers.
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crotch
Jun 12, 2006, 5:52 PM
Post #72 of 112
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Posts: 1277
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In reply to: SOUR: BD auto-locking biners-- F those man (autolock sticks on nose, keeping gate open)
If you've got any old-school BD autolockers you don't want, I might be interested in buying them off of you. Specifically, I'm looking for BD Big Easy Bayonets, and BD Superlockers.
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fenderfour
Jun 14, 2006, 2:38 PM
Post #73 of 112
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Posts: 177
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In reply to: Yeah kim, I second the report on the Jetboil. It does not do well in the cold. I haven't found a good replacement for my old, handed down whisperlite. The jetboil is a convenient stove for other stuff though.
Check out the Simmerlite. It's lighter than the Whisperlite and works (almost) as well.
FYI - All cannister stoves have problems with the cold. The only way to help them is to keep the cannister warm. There are a bunch of ways to do this, all increase the risk of overheating the cannister and causing a fire or explosion.
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crimpstrength
Jun 14, 2006, 2:59 PM
Post #74 of 112
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 285
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Love:
Anything from Mammut
- stratus jacket
- ice 45
- 8mm dyneema (please release the 6)
- Flash 10.5 x 60 dry
Most Stuff from Petzl
- reverso
- spirit bent gates
- shunt
- william, attache, am'd
- vasak
- ecrin roc
- myo 5
CCH
Metoius - the new ultralights are sweet
- PAS
Misty Mountain Caddy
Trango Alpine Equalizer
Mountain Hardwear anything
Arcteryx Alpha SV
Salomon footwear
North Face Base Cam Duffel - the only remain TNF gear I have
BD Nuts size 3 to 7
Oakley M Frame
Five Ten
- Mtn Master
- Anasavi VCS, need galileos
So So
Gregory Alpinisto 55
Zasque Boots
Gregory Z Pack
Won't Use
BD ATC
BD biners
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heiko
Jun 14, 2006, 5:06 PM
Post #75 of 112
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
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My Montane Jetstream jacket. Lightest windshirt on the planet.
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