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mr.tastycakes
Jul 21, 2011, 5:07 AM
Post #51 of 108
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johnwesely wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: But.... Here is a pretty nice video featuring female sponsored climbers. Madeline Sorkin leading Pewrsistence(5.11d) at the Gunks, filmed by Liz Skully. She totally cheated by not pulling the roof at the start. That is the hardest part.
I was wondering if anyone would say anything. Of course, I'm a punter, I've only TR'd the route. Always struck me as a spicy lead with that block right behind you.
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callie104
Jul 21, 2011, 6:56 AM
Post #52 of 108
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Hey, there's nothing wrong with being impressed with myself! :) I've been working my little ass off, eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit, and tearing the skin off my fingers. Considering I did my first pull-up EVER three months ago and can now pull my body up over a ledge on a climb I never thought I'd be able to finish? Fuck yes, I am impressed with myself.
I have no intention of sleeping with anyone or showing my AA boobies to anyone interested. Geez, people. @Happie - you're awesome :) Thanks for the insight.
Free gear would be cool, but I have a degree and will be either a nurse or NP. Lots of free time to improve. Again, I don't desire to be famous. Maybe just a little respect. I'm tired of asking to join in with a group of guys working a problem and not being taken seriously until I send something they can't, or barely could do.
I will admit that it didn't occur to me that sponsorship is in large part about selling an image and not necessarily about being a top climber. I am aiming for the latter OVER the former, however, they were, in my mind, connected.
I would like to thank everyone who is so encouraging. Seriously.
And if anyone ever comes to Alabama, there's actually some good climbing here. Hit me up. :)
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qwert
Jul 21, 2011, 8:48 AM
Post #53 of 108
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Maybe we should clarify what is actually seen as "being sponsored"?
For me that are the folks that are actually making their living solely by climbing and related stuff. Those that do get all their gear for free, that get their climbing trips fully paid, and do them all them time, world wide. Those that are in the magazines and in the ads. Those whose names might even known outside the climbing community. An extreme example would probably be the Huber brothers, that are now (or is it just one of them?) sponsored by Adidas (probably one of the biggest sports brands worldwide, at the same level as Nike) and did a stupid commercial for a chocolate bar thats running on virtually all german TV stations.
Thats sponsored climbers for me!
(and those climbers are probably only a few dozends world wide)
However if we are talking about the occasional free gear, some support for trips, or some special deals for gear, then yes, thats in the realm of the possible, even for average climbers, but thats not exactly something i would work towards, since it doesnt really pay of.
If thats "being sponsored", then i am a sponsored climber too! My ice climbing gloves did cost me nothing, as did my new softshell, the latter even has two extra logos on it, you dont get in the version all the lowly ordinary people get. I also have two shops where i get big discounts, and i get into the gym for free! I feel so pro now!
Climb because you like it, get better because you want to. If you get some stuff for free along the way, treat it as a nice bonus.
qwert
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sungam
Jul 21, 2011, 10:16 AM
Post #54 of 108
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callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit
It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session.
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sungam
Jul 21, 2011, 10:16 AM
Post #55 of 108
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Speed4TheNeed wrote: sungam wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: While it is true that some of these posts are made in jest, they do have a certain tome to them, one which a male climber would never be subjected to. "Subjected to"? Are you kidding me? I think the phrase your looking for is "Unfortunately these tactics don't really work for guys, so no one really jokes about it". I wish showing off my goods would get me a set of petzl draws! All I got was chased around the Ouray Ice Fest swimsuit party by the cops  I'd LOVE to be "subjected to" excess attention, free meals, and my door opened up for me everywhere I go.
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granite_grrl
Jul 21, 2011, 12:13 PM
Post #56 of 108
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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sungam wrote: callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit Can I recommend a book to you? It's called Gold Medal Nutrition and it's by Glenn Cardwell (or something like that). You can get it on Amazon for like £12. It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session.
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climbingtrash
Jul 21, 2011, 12:31 PM
Post #57 of 108
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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granite_grrl wrote: sungam wrote: callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit Can I recommend a book to you? It's called Gold Medal Nutrition and it's by Glenn Cardwell (or something like that). You can get it on Amazon for like £12. It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session. I'll admit that this is not the kind of post I expected to see from you.
He copy pastes gud.
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johnwesely
Jul 21, 2011, 2:21 PM
Post #58 of 108
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mr.tastycakes wrote: johnwesely wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: But.... Here is a pretty nice video featuring female sponsored climbers. Madeline Sorkin leading Pewrsistence(5.11d) at the Gunks, filmed by Liz Skully. She totally cheated by not pulling the roof at the start. That is the hardest part. I was wondering if anyone would say anything. Of course, I'm a punter, I've only TR'd the route. Always struck me as a spicy lead with that block right behind you.
By the time you are actually above the block, you are high enough above it not to hit it.
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sungam
Jul 21, 2011, 3:02 PM
Post #59 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: sungam wrote: callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit Can I recommend a book to you? It's called Gold Medal Nutrition and it's by Glenn Cardwell (or something like that). You can get it on Amazon for like £12. It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session. I'll admit that this is not the kind of post I expected to see from you.
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camhead
Jul 21, 2011, 3:06 PM
Post #60 of 108
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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sungam wrote: granite_grrl wrote: sungam wrote: callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit Can I recommend a book to you? It's called Gold Medal Nutrition and it's by Glenn Cardwell (or something like that). You can get it on Amazon for like £12. It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session. I'll admit that this is not the kind of post I expected to see from you. How come? Is it cuz I was fat and weak when we climbed together, or because most of my posts are calling Kartessa a bitch?
Protein powder works for me. I try to have the majority of my food be from fruits/veggies and protein, at least 75-100g/day. No simple carbs, and the few carbs I do have are complex, eaten the night before a big project or something like that.
I should check out that book, though.
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granite_grrl
Jul 21, 2011, 3:06 PM
Post #61 of 108
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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sungam wrote: granite_grrl wrote: sungam wrote: callie104 wrote: eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit Can I recommend a book to you? It's called Gold Medal Nutrition and it's by Glenn Cardwell (or something like that). You can get it on Amazon for like £12. It's more then likely that the whey protein you're munching is doing absolutely nothing for your gains or recovery time. A nice cold glass of low-fat chocolate milk would probably be much better. You aren't Ronnie Coleman, and the protein from your diet is likely more then enough for the relatively small amount of muscle repair/gain needed after a climbing workout. What you really want to do is have a nice big serving of high GI carbs right after training (the rate at which glycogen is replaced in the muscles is doubled during and for about 40 minutes after intense exercise, this is also why active recovery is better then pure rest) to replace the glycogen in your muscles so they are ready to go again at full power at your next session. I'll admit that this is not the kind of post I expected to see from you. How come? Is it cuz I was fat and weak when we climbed together, or because most of my posts are calling Kartessa a bitch?
I know the thread I'm talking about was a joke post, but I'm glad to hear that you've been getting serious about climbing and your diet.
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sungam
Jul 21, 2011, 3:41 PM
Post #63 of 108
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GG, Thanks. My diet has improved massively, and although I still have trouble holding down a consistent training schedule I am doing much better.
Klamhead - The book is really good. Easy to read and just packed with great information.
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bearbreeder
Jul 21, 2011, 4:29 PM
Post #64 of 108
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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callie104 wrote: Hi, I started climbing in January, and I've kind of become obsessed. I'm working v4's and 5's in the gym, leading 5.10's, and projecting 5.11's on top-rope. I'm incredibly impressed with myself
if yr hawt ... show boobies .... if yr not, dont bother
go outdoors and climb hard ...
i threw a "v4" gym climber on a 10a crack the second time out ... on TR ... the screaming and moaning ... well i wished i had a video camera 
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erisspirit
Jul 21, 2011, 6:13 PM
Post #65 of 108
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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callie104 wrote: Hey, there's nothing wrong with being impressed with myself! :) I've been working my little ass off, eating more tuna and whey protein than I care to admit, and tearing the skin off my fingers. Considering I did my first pull-up EVER three months ago and can now pull my body up over a ledge on a climb I never thought I'd be able to finish? Fuck yes, I am impressed with myself. I have no intention of sleeping with anyone or showing my AA boobies to anyone interested. Geez, people. @Happie - you're awesome :) Thanks for the insight. Free gear would be cool, but I have a degree and will be either a nurse or NP. Lots of free time to improve. Again, I don't desire to be famous. Maybe just a little respect. I'm tired of asking to join in with a group of guys working a problem and not being taken seriously until I send something they can't, or barely could do. I will admit that it didn't occur to me that sponsorship is in large part about selling an image and not necessarily about being a top climber. I am aiming for the latter OVER the former, however, they were, in my mind, connected. I would like to thank everyone who is so encouraging. Seriously. And if anyone ever comes to Alabama, there's actually some good climbing here. Hit me up. :)
If you want to be sponsored and can AWESOME! best of luck to you. However if you are looking for the boded part, you might not get what you are looking for. A sponsorship doesn't mean instant respect. In many cases those guys won't know you are sponsored, so you will find the same reaction of having to earn respect. If you go around everywhere informing everyone you are sponsored when you ask to join their group, you might find people think you are full of yourself and choose to climb with a humbler lot.
besides... it's kinda fun when a guy underestimates you, and you wind up showing them a thing or two 
I'm glad you are enjoying climbing. keep up the good work.
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Kartessa
Jul 21, 2011, 6:25 PM
Post #66 of 108
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Can I ask why you're climbing? Do you have something to prove? Why not start by proving it to yourself?
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jt512
Jul 21, 2011, 6:40 PM
Post #67 of 108
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Posts: 21904
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camhead wrote: Protein powder works for me. I try to have the majority of my food be from fruits/veggies and protein, at least 75-100g/day. No simple carbs, and the few carbs I do have are complex, eaten the night before a big project or something like that.
Fruits are "carbs," simple ones at that. If your carbohydrate intake is as low as you imply, and your stated protein intake is accurate, then fat must account for 60–70% of your calories. What's the point of that?
Jay
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drivel
Jul 21, 2011, 7:24 PM
Post #68 of 108
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callie104 wrote: Hi, I started climbing in January, and I've kind of become obsessed. I'm working v4's and 5's in the gym, leading 5.10's, and projecting 5.11's on top-rope. I'm incredibly impressed with myself because I couldn't do a single pull-up until a couple of months ago and never thought I would be able to climb. I realize this is a pretty broad question, but what can I do to get better and maybe even be sponsored one day? Is it easier for women to become sponsored? Are there any training techniques up for recommendation? Is there generally a time frame at which someone reaches their "peak," or is climbing something that one can continually improve at? Thanks for any and all friendly input. :)
spygame, but, I'm gonna call troll.
no real chick who feels the need to mince for teh camera that much will come right out and tell you "I'm the shit."
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Kartessa
Jul 21, 2011, 7:27 PM
Post #69 of 108
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drivel wrote: callie104 wrote: Hi, I started climbing in January, and I've kind of become obsessed. I'm working v4's and 5's in the gym, leading 5.10's, and projecting 5.11's on top-rope. I'm incredibly impressed with myself because I couldn't do a single pull-up until a couple of months ago and never thought I would be able to climb. I realize this is a pretty broad question, but what can I do to get better and maybe even be sponsored one day? Is it easier for women to become sponsored? Are there any training techniques up for recommendation? Is there generally a time frame at which someone reaches their "peak," or is climbing something that one can continually improve at? Thanks for any and all friendly input. :) spygame, but, I'm gonna call troll. no real chick who feels the need to mince for teh camera that much will come right out and tell you "I'm the shit."
Unless she's desperate for you to think it too
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spikeddem
Jul 21, 2011, 7:28 PM
Post #70 of 108
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jt512 wrote: camhead wrote: Protein powder works for me. I try to have the majority of my food be from fruits/veggies and protein, at least 75-100g/day. No simple carbs, and the few carbs I do have are complex, eaten the night before a big project or something like that. Fruits are "carbs," simple ones at that. If your carbohydrate intake is as low as you imply, and your stated protein intake is accurate, then fat must account for 60–70% of your calories. What's the point of that? Jay
You should see the amount of olive oil in the stir fry with those veggies.
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drivel
Jul 21, 2011, 7:31 PM
Post #71 of 108
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jcd82 wrote: Props to you on your climbing. I'm at about the same spot (though no real sponsorship aspirations). In terms of training, for us girls it's really important to work the bigger muscles (which is more beneficial than working the fingers). I'm not sure why, that's just what I've heard. Obviously still work the fingers too :) Also, running is more important for girls. Once again...not sure why. Good luck! Hope you make it someday. Just keep loving the rock and I'm sure it'll come
so that you can weigh 85 lbs, since you have such weak "big muscles." obvs.
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camhead
Jul 21, 2011, 8:10 PM
Post #72 of 108
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jt512 wrote: camhead wrote: Protein powder works for me. I try to have the majority of my food be from fruits/veggies and protein, at least 75-100g/day. No simple carbs, and the few carbs I do have are complex, eaten the night before a big project or something like that. Fruits are "carbs," simple ones at that. If your carbohydrate intake is as low as you imply, and your stated protein intake is accurate, then fat must account for 60–70% of your calories. What's the point of that? Jay
Sorry, I guess I should have said "starchy grains" instead of carbs. And most of my protein comes from whey powders, fish and/or chicken, egg whites, and nuts. Fat does not add up to anywhere near 70% of my calories.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 21, 2011, 8:36 PM
Post #73 of 108
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hahaha I weigh in at 135 lbs on a good day and cant gain over that .I eat alot of chicken(baked and grilled) steak once a week ,angus burgers , dont like vegies but drink my V8 twice a day .and enjoy my share of junky fatning fast food. Does breaking out the caculator and reading every nutrition lable really help . I dont want get fat ,but 15-20 more lbs would look good .
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spikeddem
Jul 21, 2011, 9:17 PM
Post #75 of 108
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JoeHamilton wrote: hahaha I weigh in at 135 lbs on a good day and cant gain over that .I eat alot of chicken(baked and grilled) steak once a week ,angus burgers , dont like vegies but drink my V8 twice a day .and enjoy my share of junky fatning fast food. Does breaking out the caculator and reading every nutrition lable really help . I dont want get fat ,but 15-20 more lbs would look good .
Adding 15-20 lbs of muscle will not help you send harder. Moreover, it will put plenty of extra strain on your fingers.
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