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crackjammer
Feb 4, 2004, 3:42 PM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
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In reply to: There must be something on MT Stuart in the WA Cascades.
The Complete North Ridge with the Gendarme is 20 pitches, but it is 5.9. Oh well, close enough.
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brianinslc
Feb 4, 2004, 5:13 PM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
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In reply to: -Chrimson Chrisalis is like 500' max -and how tall is Devils Tower
So, CC you can rap 5 times with a single 60 meter rope? I don't think so... A bit longer than that...
One loooong pitch on Walt Bailey Memorial on Devil's Tower and you can walk to the top. So, height wise, works out to 300 or more feet, but depends on the route. Some of the easier multi pitch have pretty short pitches.
Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire in the Tetons has a few pitches (toss in another route). Ditto the CMC route on Moran.
How 'bout the north face of Cephron in Glacier? Or one of them other long routes in Glacier (Montana). Have to do some research...
Brian in SLC
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thegreytradster
Feb 4, 2004, 11:03 PM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
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In reply to: -Velucian Blind and Moon Goddess aretes both 5.7 or 5.8 left of the Sun Ribbon Arete. By the way Dark Star was mentioned and its alot more hype than anything else, not that long or hard or good. -There must be something on MT Stuart in the WA Cascades. and honorable mentions to -anything on the N side of Tahquitz 900' 4th class to 5.12 2hr from LA and San Diego -Beckey route on Liberty Bell N Cascades. although i've never done it it would be alot more fun than all the chossy, ridge and traverse slogfeasts mentioned. and Whats that 5.5 in the Needles? Dragons tail, green dragon, puff the magic dragon? tops out at the fire lookout doesn't it, thats long.
Aw! come on! Tahquitz is crowded enough!
Whodunit and Consolation are two of the best +/- 1000ft lines in the state though.
The one at the Needles is Magic Dragon. One pitch of 5.8 and then it goes up the "Dragon's Back" forever at about 5.4 or less. Only one piece of pro per pitch, or so though on the easy stuff. The anchor possibilities are about 165-1/2ft apart for several pitches and not visible till you are right on top of them. It was real exciting with a 50m rope! A 60m would relieve a lot of the "You have 5 feet left", "Where the hell's a crack?" blues.
Although easy, the views of the rest of the Needles are incredible and it feels like you are on the back of some giant sand worm from Dune. Go thru the "Dragon's Mouth" at the top to add a 5.8 finish instead of walking off Last belay is from the lookout.
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herm
Feb 6, 2004, 12:59 AM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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-Beckey route on Liberty Bell N Cascades. although i've never done it it would be alot more fun than all the chossy, ridge and traverse slogfeasts mentioned.
I have soled the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, and I have soloed some of these "chossy" ridge traverses. Dude, you got it backwards. The Becky route is about 400' tall, and any of the Sierra traverses will have gendarmes that big. Think of doing the Becky route, followed by a few hundred smaller spires ranging from V0 boulders to a couple of pitches. You also have to downclimb each one. Sierra granite is way better than mossy crumbly Golden Horn Cascade granite. The reason so few people know about these long traverses is because very few are actually capable of doing them. Your comment illustrates this fact; these traverses are on a scale that most climbers can not think of. Really really......
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mungeclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 1:25 AM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 648
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In reply to: These in Yosemite come close to your requirements: Royal Arches SF of North Dome link up. Snake Dike...with the slabs at the top gets you that high. Reg. Route on Fairview Dome, very short and aidable 5.9 crux, the rest is more moderate Munginella/Selaginella link up on 5 open books. Tenaya Peak. 14 pitches. Book says 5.5, but you can deviate a bit and make it harder. This is one of the most beautiful routes I've been on.
Tenaya Peak, mmmmmmmmmmmmm, must go...
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