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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 6:46 PM
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dan4geng wrote: BUT there is no reason to be a DICK! Cutting, Stealing, or tossing other peoples' draws is DICK MOVE! Dont do it! Well it was my idea so I'll defend it. What I said was the defective draws should have been cut (to prevent them from being reused). I didn't say take them, steal them or render perfectly adequate draws useless. If I find old tat at a rap station I clean it up if I can. I don't ask yours or anyone else's permission, nor will I ever do so. Same is true for defective in-situ gear - its coming out or off, if I find it and can do something about it. I don't need your permission. I'm just going to do it. I think the rest of you should 'just do it' too and stop accepthing BULLSHIT as a valid excuse. Manky permo-draws should be CUT. That is all there is to it. DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 21, 2009, 6:47 PM)
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jakedatc
Sep 21, 2009, 7:00 PM
Post #77 of 150
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suprasoup wrote: jt512 wrote: TerminalVelocity wrote: Who cares about fixed draws... n00bs and trads, as usual. Jay HAHAHAHA!!! You're joking of course But since you and I don't actually know each other let me hit you with some knowledge. I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. If you're gonna pigeonhole me do it properly. I'm a "beanie wearing boulderer" THAT happens to climb sport (5.13+) and trad(5.12+) at a high level . SO SORRY, Supra. blah blah blah...
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jt512
Sep 21, 2009, 7:09 PM
Post #78 of 150
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We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 21, 2009, 7:10 PM)
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2009, 7:20 PM
Post #79 of 150
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First, a question - does this crag have other fixed draws? If not, I'd say strip 'em. If so, I'd say pony up and fix 'em right, if you can. GO
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jt512
Sep 21, 2009, 7:26 PM
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cracklover wrote: First, a question - does this crag have other fixed draws? If not, I'd say strip 'em. If so, I'd say pony up and fix 'em right, if you can. GO First of all (for the third time), these aren't fixed draws; they're project draws. But, to answer your question, except for a few chain draws where the bolt had to be placed too high to clip, there are no routes equipped with permanent draws. Jay
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 7:28 PM
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jakedatc wrote: suprasoup wrote: jt512 wrote: TerminalVelocity wrote: Who cares about fixed draws... n00bs and trads, as usual. Jay HAHAHAHA!!! You're joking of course But since you and I don't actually know each other let me hit you with some knowledge. I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. If you're gonna pigeonhole me do it properly. I'm a "beanie wearing boulderer" THAT happens to climb sport (5.13+) and trad(5.12+) at a high level . SO SORRY, Supra. blah blah blah... [image]http://images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/533/800/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_375808.jpg[/image] I don't know jake, if someone says 'if you disagree with me you're either a noob or a tard' I think some sport climbing credentials are appropriate.
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 7:29 PM
Post #82 of 150
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jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Take them down. Leave a note. Either hang onto the draws until claimed or leave them at mammoth mountaineering. Maybe post a second note there either way.
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2009, 7:30 PM
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jt512 wrote: cracklover wrote: First, a question - does this crag have other fixed draws? If not, I'd say strip 'em. If so, I'd say pony up and fix 'em right, if you can. GO First of all (for the third time), these aren't fixed draws; they're project draws. But, to answer your question, except for a few chain draws where the bolt had to be placed too high to clip, there are no routes equipped with permanent draws. Jay That's what I thought. Well then, you know my opinion. GO
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granite_grrl
Sep 21, 2009, 7:33 PM
Post #84 of 150
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jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Take them down and do everything in your power to try and return them. They're only going to get worse if they're left up the entire winter, and might be a real death trap by next season.
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Sep 21, 2009, 7:46 PM)
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LostinMaine
Sep 21, 2009, 7:39 PM
Post #85 of 150
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jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Take 'em off and send to Adatesman for pull testing to see if they really were mank. Or send them to Majid for his international rescue training. At least they might be of some use to all of us...
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kriso9tails
Sep 21, 2009, 7:58 PM
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While that's certainly funny, I think he was entitled in this thread. I didn't consider it spray.
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 8:01 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: While that's certainly funny, I think he was entitled in this thread. I didn't consider it spray. THe tag on it is also funny: Copyrighted_image_reuse_prohibited You're a bad man jake!!
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hafilax
Sep 21, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #88 of 150
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jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Personally, I wouldn't go out of I way to deal with this. If I actually wanted to climb a route and would be refitting it with my own gear I would probably be inclined to leave the ones taken down. I might clip them to the first bolt if it wouldn't be a huge inconvenience to other climbers or leave them somewhere where they wouldn't be damaged any more than leaving them on the route. If I did take them home I would probably leave a contact note in zip lock under a rock near the base of the route. In reality I doubt I would take them home. Next week's thread "To the asshole that took down my project draws".
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jt512
Sep 21, 2009, 8:16 PM
Post #89 of 150
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hafilax wrote: jt512 wrote: We're probably going back to this crag this weekend. If those draws are still up, I'm wondering what I should do with them. The crag is in the Sierras, and, after October 14, or sooner, if it snows, will be inaccessible until next summer. The crag is in a wilderness area. I'm leaning toward taking down the draws and bringing them home with me (as opposed to stashing them at the crag). Ideas? Jay Personally, I wouldn't go out of I way to deal with this. If I actually wanted to climb a route and would be refitting it with my own gear I would probably be inclined to leave the ones taken down. I might clip them to the first bolt if it wouldn't be a huge inconvenience to other climbers or leave them somewhere where they wouldn't be damaged any more than leaving them on the route. If I did take them home I would probably leave a contact note in zip lock under a rock near the base of the route. In reality I doubt I would take them home. Next week's thread "To the asshole that took down my project draws". This crag is in the middle of the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Leaving a note at the crag to become litter in Reds Meadow is out of the question. The crag is an anomaly; a rad bolted cliff in the middle of the Sierra wilderness. There have not been any threats to climber access there that I am aware of, but I'm concerned that leaving gear at the crag over the winter could attract unwanted attention from the authorities. The only reason I hesitate to remove it is the chance that the owner of the gear might show up during the last couple weeks of the season to reclaim it. That's my dilemma. Jay
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 8:23 PM
Post #90 of 150
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Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves. But ask youself this... if you put a bad draw back on a route and heard that the following day someone got hurt falling onto that draw and it broke - would you "feel" any responsibility? ME: If I glanced at a draw and wondered 'hmmm, bad?' but just went about my business? No I would not feel any responsibility if someone else went on to get hurt using that draw. But if I took it off the bolt, looked at it, refused to use it because of those looks, used my own draw instead but put this bullshit one back on at the end of day? And the next person who falls on it gets hurt? I would feel a 'bit' of responsibility, yes. Responsibility in that I could have done something, and did not. I can't say I'd always 'do the right thing' because no 2 situations are the same. And I really AM NOT my sister's keeper (just ask her, she'll tell you), so it might not even occur to me in every situation to 'dom something.' Which is why I suggested disabling the bad draws. Treat em like a manky rap anchor - I can see no reason to support putting them back. In fact I have a problem with that. Take em, run em over with your car, chuck em in the river, give em to Goodwill I DON'T CARE. Proper crag behavior should NEVER include purposely putting defective draws on a route. The more I think about it the more I come back to the 'cut em J' position. Clearly the person who put them up there doesn't care either and would reuse them again. I wouldn't give her the chance. DMT
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hafilax
Sep 21, 2009, 8:27 PM
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I guess litter with your name on it would not be a great idea. Hopefully they'll be gone by the time you return.
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boymeetsrock
Sep 21, 2009, 8:33 PM
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I'm curious, and pardon me if I missed it in the first three pages, but if the draws are mank why is there any concern about returning them? I certainly understand your concern for yourself, and for others, and for access/ litter issues. But why then would you encourage the owner to continue to climb on these draws. Seems to me from what I'm reading that the draws are destined for the garbage. I guess I would suggest destroying the nylon portion of the draws in what ever fashion you see fit. If the 'biners are good, drop 'em at the local shop and leave a note/ post like caughtinside suggested. Or maybe hang all the 'biners off the first bolt with or without a note. If the owner shows up and gets pissed you could either kick him $20 for new dog bones or offer him the draws which you were going to supplant his mank with, or tell him to go f himself, whatever... But I'm not a sport climber, so that is just my uninformed $0.02. Just curious that's all.
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boymeetsrock
Sep 21, 2009, 8:36 PM
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+1 This is what I was getting at...
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jakedatc
Sep 21, 2009, 8:42 PM
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caughtinside wrote: jakedatc wrote: suprasoup wrote: jt512 wrote: TerminalVelocity wrote: Who cares about fixed draws... n00bs and trads, as usual. Jay HAHAHAHA!!! You're joking of course But since you and I don't actually know each other let me hit you with some knowledge. I'm THAT guy: Priest Draw: Carnivore V8. I comfortably boulder V10+. If you're gonna pigeonhole me do it properly. I'm a "beanie wearing boulderer" THAT happens to climb sport (5.13+) and trad(5.12+) at a high level . SO SORRY, Supra. blah blah blah... [image]http://images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/533/800/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_375808.jpg[/image] I don't know jake, if someone says 'if you disagree with me you're either a noob or a tard' I think some sport climbing credentials are appropriate. i suppose you are right... perhaps it was just the pure volume. resume the resume'
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sungam
Sep 21, 2009, 8:43 PM
Post #96 of 150
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Try your best to return the product, preferably in person or by a person who can explain tot he individual why what they did wasn't cricket.
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jt512
Sep 21, 2009, 8:45 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: I'm curious, and pardon me if I missed it in the first three pages, but if the draws are mank why is there any concern about returning them? There is only one draw on the route that is outright "mank." There are a couple others that use a new, but weird, off-brand biner that I think sucks, but apparently the owner is less discriminating. Several other draws are nominally ok, but are too short for the bolt placements, and consequently would be loaded improperly in a fall.
In reply to: But why then would you encourage the owner to continue to climb on these draws. It's not my job to dictate to the owner what he climbs on. Apparently, he is ok with climbing on this gear.
In reply to: I guess I would suggest destroying the nylon portion of the draws in what ever fashion you see fit. If the 'biners are good, drop 'em at the local shop and leave a note/ post like caughtinside suggested. Or maybe hang all the 'biners off the first bolt with or without a note. Sometimes you actually do have to read the whole thread.
In reply to: If the owner shows up and gets pissed you could either kick him $20 for new dog bones or offer him the draws which you were going to supplant his mank with, or tell him to go f himself, whatever... Or at least read the OP carefully. Jay
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Jay, you'll do what you want. But having thought about it for a bit, I think what *I'd* do if I were you is - if they're still there when I returned, I'd strip the draws and leave them at the base of the route. GO
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Hey dingus, here's a little story about an incident at the Leap last month. Guy is leading the line. First pitch, his ONLY gear is a fixed nut he clipped. He butters off the crux, falls onto the 'fixed' nut which promptly pops, sending him to the deck. While he is lying at the base, somewhat injured (but mostly ok) another climber walks up and says 'Hey, that's my nut, I fixed it there yesterday' and unclips it from the broken climber's harness, and walks away. That's the kind of shit we're dealing with out there!
dingus wrote: Jay we are not our Sister's keeper. We all have to be responsible for ourselves. But ask youself this... if you put a bad draw back on a route and heard that the following day someone got hurt falling onto that draw and it broke - would you "feel" any responsibility? ME: If I glanced at a draw and wondered 'hmmm, bad?' but just went about my business? No I would not feel any responsibility if someone else went on to get hurt using that draw. But if I took it off the bolt, looked at it, refused to use it because of those looks, used my own draw instead but put this bullshit one back on at the end of day? And the next person who falls on it gets hurt? I would feel a 'bit' of responsibility, yes. Responsibility in that I could have done something, and did not. I can't say I'd always 'do the right thing' because no 2 situations are the same. And I really AM NOT my sister's keeper (just ask her, she'll tell you), so it might not even occur to me in every situation to 'dom something.' Which is why I suggested disabling the bad draws. Treat em like a manky rap anchor - I can see no reason to support putting them back. In fact I have a problem with that. Take em, run em over with your car, chuck em in the river, give em to Goodwill I DON'T CARE. Proper crag behavior should NEVER include purposely putting defective draws on a route. The more I think about it the more I come back to the 'cut em J' position. Clearly the person who put them up there doesn't care either and would reuse them again. I wouldn't give her the chance. DMT
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dingus
Sep 21, 2009, 8:59 PM
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Good thing you got your nut back bro! I can't believe people just huck off on your gear like that! PEOPLE!!!1111 DMT
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