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tradmanclimbs
Aug 9, 2005, 4:06 PM
Post #101 of 107
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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I don't care which is better that is not the essence of our pissing match. One poster sugested that if you used a draw on a piece of gear instead of a runner that it would walk, rip and kill you just about every time. that is a load of crap. Use whatever you like as long as it works for you, just don't tell me that the hundreds of thousands of folks who clipped gear with a draw survived only through sheer luck as dirteye would have us belive :roll: there is more than one way to clip a piece and dirteye dosen't have the last word on how you are allowed to do it. I would ventuer that there are quite a few climbers out there infinatly more skilled than dirtbrain that have mannaged just fine with the ocasional use of a draw 8^)
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golsen
Aug 10, 2005, 4:05 PM
Post #102 of 107
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 361
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Here are a couple observations. Disclaimer, my opinion only.
1. If you are using a rack pic in your profile you probably are fairly new to the sport and have not gotten over the gear loving stage.
2. If you think sport climbing sucks and dont do it, you are missing out on some great climbs and improvement opportunities.
3. If you think trad climbing sucks and dont do it, you are missing out on some great climbs and improvement opportunities.
4. If you think using quickdraws on a trad climb is dangerous, you have no freakin clue as to what we used to do in the old days. If you spout off on the internet about it acting like an expert, you are really just underlining your ignorance.
5. If you think Goran Kropp died on Air Guitar because he used draws, you are really freakin clueless. Rarely, does a climb run so vertical without wandering. It is a single, straight in crack for christ sakes.
Be forewarned. There is a whole lot of sh$$ on this site. If you are new to climbing, it may be easier to log off and forget about the sh** spewers and go climbing.
Have fun.
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capn_morgan
Aug 16, 2005, 2:34 PM
Post #103 of 107
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
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I like to clip nuts with a single biner on occasion..:shock: ..How do you like dem apples? ;)
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olderic
Aug 16, 2005, 2:50 PM
Post #104 of 107
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
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In reply to: I like to clip nuts with a single biner on occasion..:shock: ..How do you like dem apples? ;)
Ha - that is nothing - you are not hard core until you have so decimated the rack that you clip the last piece with your belay biner (belay device still hanging through it too) and then the belay anchor consists of your butt firmly planted in some divit on a ledge and you bring your second up with a hip belay.....
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 16, 2005, 2:59 PM
Post #105 of 107
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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Old eric has a point 8^) Everything on your person should be usefull otherwise don't bother carrying it. I used to make suer that the sling or cord ductaped to my water bottle was climbing strength and had a loop at each end so that I could use it for emergency runner etc. I don't suppose that dirteye would aprove of useing a water bottle to extend pro or build and anchor with 8^)
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euroford
Aug 16, 2005, 3:05 PM
Post #106 of 107
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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wow, is this thread still alive? and actually still semi on topic?
WTF
this thread really goes to show how as much as i love climbing, and as much as i dig this website there really is only a limited amount of conversation to be had about the topic in a forum setting.
to add my fuel to the topic:
when i was a brand new trad n00b i always carried only tripled runners or runners over my shoulder and put one on almost every single piece. as I've gotten more experienced I've placed a larger emphasis on speed and efficiency, I've also started to run it out allot more. as rope drag isn't as big of a deal these days and i want to keep things simple and fast i find myself using less runners and more quickdraws, and more frequently clipping cams without extending them. Draws are quick, easy and don't clusterfrig the rack nearly as much. i dig BD's 20cm dynex dogbones. they are nice and floppy for trad use.
i think a 20cm floppy dogbone in 90% of placements will do just as well as a 24" or 48" runner for isolating placements from rope movement. i reserve the long runners for reducing rope drag on wondering/traversing/roofy terrain.
so i guess I'm probably going to die a grizzly factor 2 death on pitch 1 when i rip a whole pitch of nuts on draws.......
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capn_morgan
Aug 16, 2005, 3:53 PM
Post #107 of 107
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
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In reply to: In reply to: I like to clip nuts with a single biner on occasion..:shock: ..How do you like dem apples? ;) Ha - that is nothing - you are not hard core until you have so decimated the rack that you clip the last piece with your belay biner (belay device still hanging through it too) and then the belay anchor consists of your butt firmly planted in some divit on a ledge and you bring your second up with a hip belay.....
What is the "Beee-lay Device" contraption that you speak of? ;)
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