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dr_feelgood
May 14, 2008, 5:41 PM
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epoch
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May 14, 2008, 5:47 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: epoch wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. I don't think that is what he meant. Also, you need to have the lockoff to put that reach to use on the steeps. But as long as you stay on slabs it doesn't really matter and you can be the giant that reaches past everything and gives tall climbers a bad name. Were you even listening to the Dude's story? I don't like slab climbing. I can lockoff, althought I will admit that super overhanging terrain is not my favorite, either. It's a work in progress, I guess. I'd like to get really good at roofs, roof cracks are cool. You are just jealous because I'm.... longer than you.  Aaaah, but the real question - whitey - is, can you pop and lock? Pop and lock? Sure, why not. Whitey? [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/377970-largest_DSC02138-1.jpg[/image] Only a true whitey would label the picture "On the approach" and the description "taking a short break while hiking out..." And they gave you mod powers.....
It was intentional, and thus far, you are the only one to have caught it. I like my shooze too...
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dr_feelgood
May 14, 2008, 5:57 PM
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Au contraire, I consider both legs of the hike in and out as the approach. The hike in is approaching the climb, and the hike out is approaching the beer. Thus, I am on the approach regardless of which direction i am headed.
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:12 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Well, after 48 hours of looking like a chipmunk, my face is starting to return to normal. Still swollen, though. So you had the 48 hour chipmunk disease? You should make up illnesses that are kinda believable. I had a tooth/gum infection and puffed up like a chipmunk for a few days. Not fun at all.  You really should brush your teeth every day to avoid that. It wasn't my fault! Wisdom tooth, you see. Wouldn't it be prudent and wise to just get rid of 'em then? OH! Can I help? I am a medical professional after all. Come climbing at Cathedral in June. If I take a huge whip and bash my teeth, they are all yours. What were the projected dates in june? I'm swamped for the first two weekends, but i'll look anyway.
June 1 - 20. Pick a day (or three).
Earlier in the month is better, but nothing is impossible. Weekdays would be especially awesome - no people.
(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on May 14, 2008, 6:14 PM)
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:13 PM
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epoch wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: epoch wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. I don't think that is what he meant. Also, you need to have the lockoff to put that reach to use on the steeps. But as long as you stay on slabs it doesn't really matter and you can be the giant that reaches past everything and gives tall climbers a bad name. Were you even listening to the Dude's story? I don't like slab climbing. I can lockoff, althought I will admit that super overhanging terrain is not my favorite, either. It's a work in progress, I guess. I'd like to get really good at roofs, roof cracks are cool. You are just jealous because I'm.... longer than you. Aaaah, but the real question - whitey - is, can you pop and lock? Pop and lock? Sure, why not. Whitey? [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/377970-largest_DSC02138-1.jpg[/image] Only a true whitey would label the picture "On the approach" and the description "taking a short break while hiking out..." And they gave you mod powers..... D'ya like that? It was intentional, and thus far, you are the only one to have caught it. I like my shooze too...
I just bought a pair, they are the schniznit.
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the_climber
May 14, 2008, 6:13 PM
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I think Doc's onto something
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:14 PM
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the_climber wrote: I think Doc's onto something
It does make sense, to a degree...
Lord knows I love the post-climb beer(s).
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artm
May 14, 2008, 6:36 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. Since when are drop knees dynamic movement? They kinda lock you into place and are anti-dynamic if anything. I meant getting into them can require dynamic movement. Sure.. Change your story.[image]http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif[/image]
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artm
May 14, 2008, 6:37 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo.
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artm
May 14, 2008, 6:38 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo.
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:40 PM
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. No we're not, you're speaking canadan...
No, I'm not speaking Canadian
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:40 PM
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. Climbing statically is a waste of energy
You are wrong.
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:41 PM
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Well, after 48 hours of looking like a chipmunk, my face is starting to return to normal. Still swollen, though. You can get rid of the swelling by shooting yourself in the face...
That made me laugh, thanks.
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:42 PM
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Fuck, the clouds are back. It was beautiful the last day and a half.
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artm
May 14, 2008, 6:46 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. Climbing statically is a waste of energy You are wrong.
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #1542 of 26795
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. Climbing statically is a waste of energy You are wrong. No actually I am not, and the self coached climber author Fluxus agrees with me...
Define static, I guess. As far as what I know, using something offset balance or momentum all the time is unecessary. Sure, it can help. If I can move from hold to hold without momentum...what's wrong with that...?
I have a feeling you are trolling me....
Seriously, explain. You climb harder than me, am I misunderstanding...?
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artm
May 14, 2008, 6:59 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. Climbing statically is a waste of energy You are wrong. No actually I am not, and the self coached climber author Fluxus agrees with me... Define static, I guess. As far as what I know, using something offset balance or momentum all the time is unecessary. Sure, it can help. If I can move from hold to hold without momentum...what's wrong with that...? I have a feeling you are trolling me.... Seriously, explain. You climb harder than me, am I misunderstanding...?
jt512 wrote: caliclimbergrl wrote: So to me, static movement (as opposed to static holding power) would be knowing how to put the weight on your skeleton as much as possible for the limbs that you aren't currently using and fluidly move to a hold that you can reach without taking any other limbs off of the holds they're resting on. In climbing, a static move is a reach to a handhold without the aid of momentum. A dynamic move is a reach to a handhold aided by momentum. There are dynamic moves in which both feet stay on holds. In fact, such moves -- deadpoint -- are the most common dynamic move. Deadpointing for a hold is more efficient than locking off to reach it statically: it requires less strength and is faster. In reply to: But I don't think that is a more efficient way to move. My logic: say you're climbing a stair case. Does it take more energy to go up one step at a time or to jump up 3 steps at a time the whole way? Your analogy doesn't work because, by definition, dynamic moves are methods of gaining handholds. In climbing, efficiency really means saving energy in the muscles that matter -- usually the forearms -- not saving total energy. We usually want to transfer effort from the forearms to the lower body, which is one way that climbing dynamically improves efficiency. Jay |
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wanderlustmd
May 14, 2008, 7:05 PM
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. You can't use the term "yo" unless you are a dynamic climber yo. Its like wearing a beany. Its part of the bouldering culture yo. According to Art, I am a dynamic climber...yo. I'm taller than the average bear, yo, so I can static my way through more stuff than usual, yo. Climbing statically is a waste of energy You are wrong. No actually I am not, and the self coached climber author Fluxus agrees with me... Define static, I guess. As far as what I know, using something offset balance or momentum all the time is unecessary. Sure, it can help. If I can move from hold to hold without momentum...what's wrong with that...? I have a feeling you are trolling me.... Seriously, explain. You climb harder than me, am I misunderstanding...? Actually I was trolling you a little bit, in answer to your question however I will quote jt512 jt512 wrote: caliclimbergrl wrote: So to me, static movement (as opposed to static holding power) would be knowing how to put the weight on your skeleton as much as possible for the limbs that you aren't currently using and fluidly move to a hold that you can reach without taking any other limbs off of the holds they're resting on. In climbing, a static move is a reach to a handhold without the aid of momentum. A dynamic move is a reach to a handhold aided by momentum. There are dynamic moves in which both feet stay on holds. In fact, such moves -- deadpoint -- are the most common dynamic move. Deadpointing for a hold is more efficient than locking off to reach it statically: it requires less strength and is faster. In reply to: But I don't think that is a more efficient way to move. My logic: say you're climbing a stair case. Does it take more energy to go up one step at a time or to jump up 3 steps at a time the whole way? Your analogy doesn't work because, by definition, dynamic moves are methods of gaining handholds. In climbing, efficiency really means saving energy in the muscles that matter -- usually the forearms -- not saving total energy. We usually want to transfer effort from the forearms to the lower body, which is one way that climbing dynamically improves efficiency. Jay
I see.
Good to know, thanks for the post.
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obsessed
May 14, 2008, 7:12 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: Well, after 48 hours of looking like a chipmunk, my face is starting to return to normal. Still swollen, though.
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dr_feelgood
May 14, 2008, 7:36 PM
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artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: Well, after 48 hours of looking like a chipmunk, my face is starting to return to normal. Still swollen, though. You can get rid of the swelling by shooting yourself in the face...
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dr_feelgood
May 14, 2008, 7:38 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: the_climber wrote: I think Doc's onto something It does make sense, to a degree... Lord knows I love the post-climb beer(s).
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the_climber
May 14, 2008, 8:03 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. No we're not, you're speaking canadan... No, I'm not speaking Canad ian
No, he's not speaking Canadian.... if he was there would be more of a back-baccon/beer Bob and Doug Mackenzie influence to his speach. Art, you know what I'm sayin', eh?
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artm
May 14, 2008, 8:42 PM
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the_climber wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. No we're not, you're speaking canadan... No, I'm not speaking Canad ian No, he's not speaking Canadian.... if he was there would be more of a back-baccon/beer Bob and Doug Mackenzie influence to his speach. Art, you know what I'm sayin', eh?
In my head you sound like Sean Connery...
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the_climber
May 14, 2008, 9:04 PM
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artm wrote: the_climber wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: artm wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yep. I'm built for cold winters of hard drinking ice climbing. Delicate moves on overhanging shit... not so much. What about burly moves on overhanging? Slabs are delicate. I fucking hate slab climbing. Boooorrrrrinnnnnggggg! And scareee Hate, yes. Scary, yes. Boring, no, becase you are usually scared! I'll clarify, by boring I was talking about the movement. Delicate smearing and crimping with very little dynamic movement does not interest me very much. I like to use my muscles... IC We are different then; I usually try to do everything static, depending on the move, i.e. I hate to dyno. Momentum is different. I just have never liked the inherent insecurity that seems to come with slab climbing, but I'm betting if I did more of it, I wouldn't feel that way. I'd just rather get on a crack, I guess. By dynamic movement I do not necessarily mean dynos, Deadpoints are dynamic in movement as are dropknees, crossovers etc. most sport climbing contains quite a bit of dynamic movement. That's what I meant by momentum. Your description is much better than mine. We are speaking the same language, yo. No we're not, you're speaking canadan... No, I'm not speaking Canad ian No, he's not speaking Canadian.... if he was there would be more of a back-baccon/beer Bob and Doug Mackenzie influence to his speach. Art, you know what I'm sayin', eh? That's the accent I give his words in my head. In my head you sound like Sean Connery...
Really? Sweet.
(This post was edited by the_climber on May 14, 2008, 9:16 PM)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] The Lounge™
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