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cracklover
Aug 8, 2007, 4:52 PM
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Hmm, that's odd. Unless I misunderstood, On ST,
you stated that this:
was the first pitch of Intimidation
GO
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ambler
Aug 8, 2007, 5:08 PM
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Gabe you're quite right, that's P1 of Intimidation above. The trick behind my too-tricky-for-its-own-good question was that although we started up Intimidation, this is not its P2:
nor is this its P3:
(This post was edited by ambler on Aug 8, 2007, 5:17 PM)
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ericbeyeler
Aug 8, 2007, 8:11 PM
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I will be in Boston Sept 19-21 for a conference. Looking for someone local that would be willing to show me around - in the after work/evening time frame. QQ and Rattlesnake rocks look interesting.
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 12:32 PM
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Eric welcome. hopefully someone can hook you up. QQ is a vy popular urban crag.
FYI all, I will be heading to CR @ approx 5:00, bailing at 7:00
I'm tired of the beer-guessing game.
the guidebook was "Secrets of the Notch" and the crags are Artist's Bluff, and Echo Crag.
the 2 pitch climbs I'm aiming for are Standard Route, and Right Side Route on Artist's. that's the thursday goal. Friday I want to head to Echo. I am figuring that since Artist's Bluff is rarely talked about here or on any of the NEw England centric climbing sites, the possibility is high that on a weekday I'll have the place to myself.
I'm staying in a condo in Lincoln NH, owned by the parents of one of my star guitar students. there is room for several. I'm heading out wed evening from work, hoping to get up to the franconia area with enough light left to explore...or give my new petzl tika headlamp a good workout.
so far, I haven't a partner, but, like my farley trip, rope solo fright is always part of the adventure-plan, these days. I set myself a goal of rope soloing a multipitch sometime this year, and I'm feeling like this is the time. Of course, if anybody wants to tag along, that's kewl, pile on. Artist's Bluff also has an .8 that sounds fun...anything over .6 I want a partner for...maybe ;-)
I'll still buy ya a beer.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 9, 2007, 12:47 PM)
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 1:39 PM
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Hey Rob, that sounds like fun. Artist's Bluff is way scenic place, just right of the beach in this photo.
As you might know, there's also a significant crag complex more or less in Lincoln itself, with some good moderate routes.
cheers,
L
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 2:30 PM
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ambler wrote: As you might know, there's also a significant crag complex more or less in Lincoln itself, with some good moderate routes. cheers, L
No, in fact I didn't know that. enlighten me, pls?
Larry, that pic looks sooooooo inviting. c'mon weather!
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 2:40 PM
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Can you beg borrow or steal a copy of Sykes' guidebook? That's got all the beta. I don't have my copy at work, but fuzzy-recall sez: about 4 crags close together, the best and largest about 120' high with a handful of decent routes 5.6-5.10 (one 12 maybe). Not a destination crag but if you're up there...I'll try to find a photo to post later.
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 4:50 PM
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Oh wait, yeah...
"Secrets of the Notch" is the Sykes Book, and when I checked the past "Rock CLimbing" chapter talks about "Lincoln Crag and Potash Knob". The map shows it to be right in Lincoln...whadaya know? maybe that'll be my friday destination, rather than Echo.
sweet!
Larry, thanks!
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epoch
Moderator
Aug 9, 2007, 4:53 PM
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Rob,
When is this happening???
Soon, how soon?
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jakedatc
Aug 9, 2007, 4:57 PM
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there is some choss pile 30 mins south too. routes from 5.2 to 5.14d+ between 15-30m ;) 18 crags.. few thousand routes... i hear a few of them are ok.. but mostly choss
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 4:58 PM
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Jay, I'm driving up to lincoln next wednesday 8/15, directly from work, and climbing thursday 16th abnd friday the 17th, coming home friday night. weekend of the 18th/19th is a big fambly reunion at my brother's lake house, so friday the 17th is it.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 9, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 5:00 PM
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jakedatc wrote: there is some choss pile 30 mins south too. routes from 5.2 to 5.14d+ between 15-30m ;) 18 crags.. few thousand routes... i hear a few of them are ok.. but mostly choss
...in between the bolts ;-)
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ratherbe
Aug 9, 2007, 5:04 PM
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All these gorgeous pictures, I finally got inspired to upload the obligatory CCK shot from early last month.
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jakedatc
Aug 9, 2007, 5:08 PM
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I know! and some of the roofs have HOLES in them. i mean if i wanted Hueco's to bat hang in .. i'd go to HUECO! ;) total pile of shist
Photo is Lee Hansche
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Aug 9, 2007, 5:12 PM)
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antiqued
Aug 9, 2007, 5:16 PM
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Ambler - I think I've been there before. (Didn't see these posts before today, I've been getting out)
Several years ago, I did P1 of Intimidation, but instead of traversing over to Bonfire Ledge, we headed up and right to a striking crack, which we later tentatively identified as P3 of Bicycle Route. It delivered full value. I didn't recognize it from your picture, but I think I recongnize your next photo as P3 of Antline, which I took off of the right end of that ledge.
Then we ran out of daylight, and rapped. What happens next? What did I miss?
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 5:29 PM
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antiqued wrote: Ambler - I think I've been there before. (Didn't see these posts before today, I've been getting out) Several years ago, I did P1 of Intimidation, but instead of traversing over to Bonfire Ledge, we headed up and right to a striking crack, which we later tentatively identified as P3 of Bicycle Route. It delivered full value. I didn't recognize it from your picture, but I think I recongnize your next photo as P3 of Antline, which I took off of the right end of that ledge. Then we ran out of daylight, and rapped. What happens next? What did I miss?
Dude, you totally won the beer. (I'll buy ones for Cory & Gabe too when we meet, they've been good sports on this impossible quiz.)
We intended to climb Antline because neither of us had done it, it had no stars, kind of sounded like fun and not too much desperation. Wootles led the first pitch of Intimidation which is how it begins. I started up the second pitch, i.e. the first pitch of Antline proper. Mystery photo shows the start of this lead. After 50' of neat climbing, steep but well protected, I reached a ledge. Here Antline was supposed to step right and grovel up the depths of a dark 5.5 chimney. But right overhead was that "striking crack" you mention which looked far more exciting -- a hand-size splitter up a dead vertical wall. That's part of Bicycle Route as you say.
So I launched up the jam crack, for some reason expecting that it would be easier than it looked. Instead it was harder. Halfway up I noticed that I only had two cams left, and no stoppers, because I'd placed all my hand-size stuff in the first 50 feet. Also, I couldn't rest where I thought I would, because the crack leaned and offset a bit. Anyway, I was unusually tired and proud of the onsight (considering it was only 5.9) when I eventually flopped onto the next ledge.
Wootles led the 3rd pitch and like you, we rapped off from there. Above that it looked easier and mossy.
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jakedatc
Aug 9, 2007, 5:45 PM
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Speaking of Gunks .. anyone heading that way this weekend? i haven't been since the Deathscort incident
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 6:11 PM
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robbovius wrote: Oh wait, yeah... "Secrets of the Notch" is the Sykes Book, and when I checked the past "Rock CLimbing" chapter talks about "Lincoln Crag and Potash Knob". The map shows it to be right in Lincoln...whadaya know? maybe that'll be my friday destination, rather than Echo. sweet! Larry, thanks!
Hell, check out both if you have time. Artist's Bluff is much more scenic, very quick approach, and has easier top access in case that figures into your day. Also more hikers around. Lincoln Crag on the other hand has a better variety of cool leads, IMHO. The Lincoln Crag style tends to be "mixed," meaning bolts where they're needed but not where they aren't.
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 6:19 PM
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ambler wrote: Hell, check out both if you have time. Artist's Bluff is much more scenic, very quick approach, and has easier top access in case that figures into your day. Also more hikers around. Lincoln Crag on the other hand has a better variety of cool leads, IMHO. The Lincoln Crag style tends to be "mixed," meaning bolts where they're needed but not where they aren't.
yeah I read some of the route descritions for Lincoln and saw that they were mixed. there's a couple 150ft 5.7s there, oughtta be fun ;-)
Artist's Bluff really apeals to me, hopefully the weather will cooperate.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 9, 2007, 6:48 PM)
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 6:29 PM
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Being deep in the woods, Lincoln Crag is hard to photograph. Here's one that I found, I think the route is named Psycho Babble (5.10b). It's no sport climb, pulling over that roof!
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ambler
Aug 9, 2007, 6:41 PM
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robbovius wrote: yeah I read some of the route descritions for Lincoln and saw that they were mixed. there's a couple 150ft 5.7s there, oughtta be fun ;-)
robbovius wrote: Artist's Bluff really apeals to me, hopefully the weather will cooperate.
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robbovius
Aug 9, 2007, 6:54 PM
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ambler wrote: robbovius wrote: yeah I read some of the route descritions for Lincoln and saw that they were mixed. there's a couple 150ft 5.7s there, oughtta be fun ;-) Yeah the long slabby 5.7's on the R side of the crag (there's also a 5.8) are good. I think you'll want two ropes to rap off (I just had one 70m, and seem to recall some frigging). Also, bring a light rack and expect to get above your pro. The L side of the crag is shorter and steeper, with one 6-ish route that's OK but not worth hiking all that way for. It might be easy to fix a TR on one of the giveaway 5.10a's over there. robbovius wrote: Artist's Bluff really apeals to me, hopefully the weather will cooperate. Climbing aside, that's a prettier place to spend the day. And you'll drive past the drama of Cannon.
"Secrets of the Notch" sez that from the three long first climbs, you can exit left and rap down from the "Good to Go" 5.8 with one rope, but we'll see.
threre's several other .7-.9 range climbs there that'll be fine if my partner possibilities work out.
I dunno if there's a way to lead wihtout getting above pro. I thought that was essential to the game ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 9, 2007, 6:57 PM)
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2007, 11:24 AM
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Got myself above some pro last night at College, leading Almost Cut my Hair with the .7+ traverse start. not ahuge lead - only 4 pieces - but a nice confidence builder.
then spent the remainder of the evening with Jim and Tony pasquino working highballs on the various easy buttresses.
I've got a fun long "loop route" that I do - climb the climb the short 5.5 "Maltriculation" walk right to the very south end and traverse left 80-90ft to the jagged buttress (5.3, with an awkward, commiting, top-out) just left of Exercize left to the Reader. CLimb the butress, top out, walk left along the top and downclimb the 5.0 College Rock Chimney (AKA "Spring Vacation"). traverse right 25 feet to the small right-facing corner infront of the "Steeple" semi-detached monolith. Climb up the corner to the big ledge, and then up the ramp on the left side of the Steeple (about 5.3-5.4) walk left and downclimb the chimney again... done!
no ropes, and plenty of head space highballing the butresses.
I didn't even set up a rope last night.
that lead was fun ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 10, 2007, 1:09 PM)
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ambler
Aug 10, 2007, 12:16 PM
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MASS CLIMBERS is the only thing I miss about RC.com, gotta say. Good luck to Rob and whoever else is getting out this weekend, I'll check back for TRs on Monday.
cheers,
L
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bboysmeth
Aug 11, 2007, 11:55 AM
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Hey all, There is going to be a blueberry pancake fundraiser the morning of saturday august 18th up at the main parking lot in rumney. The event is to raise money to replace bolts. Hope to see you all there.
I got the info from : http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new_hampshire/rumney/106000947
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