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dudemanbu
Jun 30, 2009, 9:22 PM
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I am headed to rumney this weekend and was wondering if it's possible to link both pitches of this with a 70m rope? I've never looked at it before so i'm not really sure what the situation is with rope drag, length, etc.. but i'd like to get a really long pitch in.
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tguozden
Jun 30, 2009, 9:38 PM
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Hello people: I'm visiting the university and will be free for the hole weekend, if someone is reading and wants to go climbing friday/saturday/sunday/maybe monday why not tuesday I will be very glad.
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jakedatc
Jun 30, 2009, 9:39 PM
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From this it sounds like it won't work.. unless you top belay.. rap to the middle.. rap to the end? it doesn't seem worth the trouble. The first pitch is pumpy so you may want the rest.
from Mtn project:
"Protection
Bolts. A 60 meter rope is required to lower from the top anchors to the ground. If you have less than a 60, lower to the belay and have your belayer haul you in. Rap from the anchors on the ledge to the ground. "
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dudemanbu
Jun 30, 2009, 9:57 PM
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Seems like it should work then if i break up the rap into two pitches and just treat it like a trad climb. I was just worried that the two pitches together would be longer than 240 feet, or that there would be absurd rope drag.
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jakedatc
Jun 30, 2009, 10:26 PM
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just have your belayer tie in to the other end and put a long sling on the belay anchor. bring a few other long ones.. i know there is a traverse on the 2nd pitch.
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dudemanbu
Jul 1, 2009, 12:02 AM
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Thanks, if it doesn't look good i'll probably try to project predator instead (if it's open).
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robbovius
Jul 1, 2009, 12:23 PM
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as promised, pics from last week/w3eekend at the Gunks:
friday Brekky with MacGyvered Diet Coke Bottle Spoon
Unloaded Rope Solo Anchor at The Brat. It was BOMBER.
The Welded Tricam In place
waiting out MORE rain at bacchus on friday evening
Post-Bacchus. Still Life with Shoe, Foundling Nut Tool, Hammer, and Unwelded Tricam
At the Campsite, Amanda and Mike. but, view the majesty of my incredibly well-engineered "SuperFly" over my old yellow dome tent.
Atsuko building her belay anchor at the bottom of Easy O
thru the Easy O squeeze chimney.
Astuko seconding P1
up P2 headed for the easy overhang.
at the top, L-R, Atsuko, Andrew, Me. hasn't started raining yet.
Atsuko adn Andrew rapping down in sequence
unfortunately the camera stayed in the pack for all of "jackie" damn it. but I do have this:
Amanda took this as she rapped past us, while we waited at the jackie p2 belay.
it was a great time, I so wanna go back soon.
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olderic
Jul 1, 2009, 1:22 PM
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dudemanbu wrote: Thanks, if it doesn't look good i'll probably try to project predator instead (if it's open).
Rope length - providing you have at least a 60 - won't be an issue for linking the 2 pitches of Tropicana. I have stood on the ground and lowered people from the top of the 2nd pitch. Might have to walk up the hill a bit but it will work. More of an issue will be carrying enough draws (~25) and fighting the rope drag. Double ropes would work well.
You realize that it is a BIG leap between Tropicana and Predator? Maybe that's just my anti projecting mentality. I would think a better alternative would be to try for the on-sight of some of the longer routes at OC - Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Black Mamba (was originally 1 pitch before the pansy mid-way anchors were installed), Crusher, Thesher...
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antiqued
Jul 1, 2009, 4:38 PM
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dudemanbu wrote: Seems like it should work then if i break up the rap into two pitches
That's one thing you surely won't do on Tropicana! The first pitch anchors are well off to the side and distinctly under (way under!) the anchors on the 2nd pitch.
Eric - if dudemanbu runs both pitches together, his belayer won't be able to walk up hill to lower him, because of gear in on the first pitch, no? But if it's that close, a 70m might work. You only walked 15 feet uphill, right?
Eric's suggestions are good - Black Mamba, Buried Treasure actually provide a more sustained climbing challenge (effectively longer) than linking Tropicana.
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Bag11s
Jul 1, 2009, 7:10 PM
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The answer is, absolutely- yes, and its definately the way to go- the whole route as one is fun. From the ledge between the pitches just follow the right-hand bolt line above. You will be lowered right to the ground with little rope to spare.
I second Eric's suggestions Black Mamba and Crusher, and recommend Lions and Tigers and Bears- all fantastic climbs.
(This post was edited by Bag11s on Jul 1, 2009, 7:20 PM)
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jakedatc
Jul 1, 2009, 7:50 PM
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Don't do Buried treasure in direct sun! holy burned out retinas batman.. bring sunglasses or something. searching blindly for holds to rock up on the first section suuuuuucked.
2nd 'pitch' of Black mamba has some crazy stuff going on. the top roof moves are worth the effort though
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dudemanbu
Jul 1, 2009, 8:19 PM
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Thanks for the advice everyone!
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dudemanbu
Jul 3, 2009, 2:35 AM
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One last question before I head out.. how bad is the seepage? I know it's rained about 20 of the last 25 days and the whole northeast is getting soaked today and tomorrow...
Is ANYTHING going to be dry up there even if it doesn't rain much saturday?
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jakedatc
Jul 3, 2009, 3:17 AM
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Many rumney routes dry in a few hours so if it's not currently raining things dry out pretty fast. Orange crush specifically.. i'm not sure .. the obvious stuff will be wet... ohh black mamba.. it's black for a reason. same with Waimea 10d
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jessicageraldine
Jul 7, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Hi Everyone,
I just moved to Beverly, MA from Burlington, VT. I grew up in Beverly, but don't know ANYONE here that climbs! I need someone to climb with! I can lead 8s and some 9s and can climb/work 10s, but I'm willing to climb ANYTHING as long as I can get my hands on some rock! If you need a partner or just want to help out a 24 year old girl who has no partner around here, please get in touch with me at jessicafalcetti@gmail.com. I will travel! I'm having a hard time figuring out this message board, so getting in touch with me through my email is best. Thanks and I hope to hear from someone!
-Jess
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Gmburns2000
Jul 10, 2009, 12:51 PM
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jessicageraldine wrote: Hi Everyone, I just moved to Beverly, MA from Burlington, VT. I grew up in Beverly, but don't know ANYONE here that climbs! I need someone to climb with! I can lead 8s and some 9s and can climb/work 10s, but I'm willing to climb ANYTHING as long as I can get my hands on some rock! If you need a partner or just want to help out a 24 year old girl who has no partner around here, please get in touch with me at jessicafalcetti@gmail.com. I will travel! I'm having a hard time figuring out this message board, so getting in touch with me through my email is best. Thanks and I hope to hear from someone! -Jess
Hey Jess,
A good place to meet folks, too, is at MetroRock in Everett (not too far from you). It's a pretty good gym and a bunch of the folks on here climb there.
Welcome to Mass.
Greg
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jumaringjeff
Jul 10, 2009, 3:58 PM
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Hi everyone,
I hope all is well with you folks and everyone is having a great outdoor climbing season despite the wet and dreary June we experienced.
Does anyone have a single or two-person tent I can borrow? I need to find one by the end of next week and I can return it at the beginning of August.
If you can help, please send me a PM. I'll gladly buy you dinner in return.
Thanks and I wish you all well!
-Jeff
(This post was edited by jumaringjeff on Jul 10, 2009, 3:59 PM)
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cracklover
Jul 10, 2009, 4:08 PM
Post #21918 of 22774
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If you want to pay for postage from CO, I'd give you mine for free. It's kinda old, but it works! And I always use Allison's.
GO
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burrito
Jul 15, 2009, 3:21 PM
Post #21919 of 22774
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Speaking of Rumney...a couple friends of mine work for the Forest Service and passed along some information about proposed projects there. The comment period has expired, but that doesn't mean you can't make comments -- it just means you won't have any legal standing down the road to challenge any of the Forest Service's actions. As someone whose law practice includes administrative agency work, I can tell you from experience that you don't care anyhow, because participating in that process is a freakin' nightmare. 
Anyhoots, here's the info:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/forests/white_mountain/projects/projects/assessments/rumney_rocks/rumney_rocks_ea_30-day.pdf
Comment away!
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wonderwoman
Jul 16, 2009, 2:01 PM
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Eeeek!!! Why does it look like it's going to rain EVERYWHERE again this weekend????
I am getting seriously pissed off this climbing season!
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jakedatc
Jul 16, 2009, 3:28 PM
Post #21921 of 22774
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i'm still hoping for some rumney action.. friday and sunday look good. monday also looks good
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skraeling
Jul 17, 2009, 2:20 PM
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What if you cannot afford MetroRock?
I am a summer RA, I have food, shelter and climbing gear but not much else for the summer. I dislocated my elbow at metrorock just over a year ago and have been trying to get back into climbing this season. Besides the weather, finding a partner is difficult.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 17, 2009, 2:40 PM
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skraeling wrote: What if you cannot afford MetroRock? I am a summer RA, I have food, shelter and climbing gear but not much else for the summer. I dislocated my elbow at metrorock just over a year ago and have been trying to get back into climbing this season. Besides the weather, finding a partner is difficult.
YIKES! A dislocated elbow sounds painful. Ugh, I've dislocated my kneecap, but that doesn't sound as painful as the elbow [cringes] .
Not sure what your best bet is going to be. I personally have a pretty steady partner and prefer to stick to multi-pitch trad, in which case I'd rather meet you in a different environment first. Without the gym, it'll probably have to wait until I hit a local crag on a random weekend day where I'm not in NY or NH. If I'm ever heading to Farley for a day trip, however, then you're certainly welcome to join / tag along.
Otherwise, you may find better luck linking up with the folks who head to Rumney on a regular basis. Of course, I don't want to speak for the other traddies on here, but most of them seem to have regular partners for that stuff, too.
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wonderwoman
Jul 17, 2009, 2:58 PM
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Weathers looking better for gunks, folks!
Yeeehaw!!!
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Gmburns2000
Jul 17, 2009, 3:04 PM
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see you there...
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