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robbovius
Jan 19, 2010, 1:20 PM
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jakedatc wrote: what is funny is i think his technique is way better with a busted foot then it was a year or whatever ago when he first started climbing ice. allez rob.. you french free that top out like it's your job ;)
I've noticed that too, since the left foot is weak, I find I'm alot more precise with my footwork. I've got new tools too, BD reactors, they stick more easily (as long as I swing them with good technique) than the Alpaxes do.
French Free aid, man, it r00lz ;-)
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cracklover
Jan 19, 2010, 3:58 PM
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robbovius wrote: Recovery FWD! The weaksauce foot on the -wet, leaky, trickling - Auburn ice last saturday 1/16. a funny conversation goes on with the leader to my left after the first disolve...anybody who was witness to my 2008 drama will understand. enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es48HJbl9xE
Congrats, Rob!
GO
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cracklover
Feb 4, 2010, 4:36 PM
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Quiet in here. Just to keep y'all going through the long dark New England winter, here are some pics taken last weekend from here in sunny Colorado.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew;my_folder_id=5814
I've been sport climbing a lot this winter to stay strong. The low commitment involved is great for short days.
Anyway, I'll be back visiting Boston in early March. Anyone think the Gunks will be climbable then? Or... wherever else.
GO
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jakedatc
Feb 4, 2010, 4:54 PM
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Nice Gabe. I've been to Rumney in march and had no issues. well camping is interesting if there is snow on the ground but that is what wally land has been for :) If the weather is in the 40's the rock is perfect.
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c4c
Feb 5, 2010, 1:25 AM
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nice Gabe.
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robbovius
Feb 14, 2010, 5:08 PM
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cracklover wrote: Quiet in here. Just to keep y'all going through the long dark New England winter, here are some pics taken last weekend from here in sunny Colorado. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew;my_folder_id=5814 I've been sport climbing a lot this winter to stay strong. The low commitment involved is great for short days. Anyway, I'll be back visiting Boston in early March. Anyone think the Gunks will be climbable then? Or... wherever else. GO
Sorry Gabe, winter isn't dark and long for me, its bright and not quite long enough. winter is for ice. this is quite possibly the kewlest picture ever taken of me climbing...anything.
there is ice leading in my future...
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 18, 2010, 4:05 PM
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cracklover wrote: Quiet in here. Just to keep y'all going through the long dark New England winter, here are some pics taken last weekend from here in sunny Colorado. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew;my_folder_id=5814 I've been sport climbing a lot this winter to stay strong. The low commitment involved is great for short days. Anyway, I'll be back visiting Boston in early March. Anyone think the Gunks will be climbable then? Or... wherever else. GO
When will you be here? And, you will be back home in time for MY arrival, right? 
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cracklover
Feb 18, 2010, 5:24 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: cracklover wrote: Quiet in here. Just to keep y'all going through the long dark New England winter, here are some pics taken last weekend from here in sunny Colorado. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew;my_folder_id=5814 I've been sport climbing a lot this winter to stay strong. The low commitment involved is great for short days. Anyway, I'll be back visiting Boston in early March. Anyone think the Gunks will be climbable then? Or... wherever else. GO When will you be here? And, you will be back home in time for MY arrival, right?
I'll be in Boston the week of March 1-7. Interested in going out the weekend of the 6th? Interested in hitting the gym and getting a pint after one weeknight?
GO
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robbovius
Feb 22, 2010, 12:40 PM
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video goodness from the Auburn Ice Canyon last saturday. about 40% of the floor was either open water or unsafe to walk on, and the sunny side was tossing bombs down all day. you can hear a crash and splash happen about 2/3rds of the way thru the video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDapQTVScSs
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losbill
Mar 2, 2010, 1:33 AM
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Rob thanks for posting up. Good to see you are getting out. Good job on the recovery and the positive attitude! As Gabe pointed out a little quiet here so here is just a bit from me. Been too damn cold for climbing but getting out anyway. Cold Weather Kevin gets to get out every other weekend. It is a break for him from job and childcare duties of 3 daughters 3 to 6 so I try to step up.
Got back to the "Found Crag" of a previous post. the 60 feet turned out to be closer to 45 feet but fun nevertheless. Kevin led up a line featuring snow, ice and a bit of a chimney. Pretty interesting. I followed in my boots. Pretty much 5.5, except for a couple of 5.7+/5.8ish moves. Pretty bold lead in the conditions, 16 degrees. Set up a TR on a pretty vertical face with prominent crack and a bit of a mantel finish.
Here's Kevin with very cold hands about to get another top rope lap.
Here I am on the rap after cleaning the anchor.
Here is Kevin on the trail out.
A couple of weekends later found us out at Crow Hill in a bit warmer weather, about 19 degrees.
Here is Kevin leading Boardwalk.
Here is Kevin nearing the top.
Had my helmet but stupidly didn't wear it. The hanging ice formation at the top got knocked off by the rope as I was following. Took a chunk off the noggin. Duh!
I choose to wear the neoprene work gloves on the follow. They worked pretty well.
Winter view of Crow Hill from the top.
Bailed after Boardwalk to work the short, hard wall left of Tom's Dilemma in order to minimize bare hand time.
A week ago Sunday we were at it again. Much warmer this time, 35 degrees. Kevin led Intertwine followed by each of us doing several TR laps, good workout. Next we finished and finished ourselves with a TR session on CroMag.
Can't wait for spring! PTG if you are out there, please resurface, the warmer weather is around the corner and my blindfold is ready. Hope you didn't take offense at some of the posts. All who post here are good people and great to climb with. Unfortunately the internet is not always the most effective way with which to communicate.
(This post was edited by losbill on Mar 2, 2010, 2:09 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Mar 3, 2010, 2:51 AM
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nice bill. you are one hard man. 16 degrees??!?!?! shit, I wish I had your pedigree. I can't wait to get where it's warm (actually, I'm kinda enjoying staying at my dad's for a bit, but still, I want WARM!!!)
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losbill
Mar 5, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Gabe -- quality of the rock, moves and crack were great but maybe a bit low in grade, 5.7/5.8 for you.
Greg - Kevin's the hardman. I'm only out there to help keep a valued climbing partner relatively sane. Is Dad's Down East? If so, you have an opportunity to be a real hardman at Otter Cliffs. I'm looking forward to warm too. Let's be sure to rope up this year. I've upped my game a bit and think I'm well in your grade range. How's the ankle?
Looks to be a great weekend, plan to be at Crow Hill both days. Up to 1 PM on Saturday, midday on Sunday. See you there if you are planning to get out.
Bill
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 5, 2010, 1:36 PM
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Nice. Bill. I have been a gym rat for most of the winter. But, I am going out to CO to visit Gabe and Allison next week. So, there be climbing in my near future. Indian Creek, Shelf Road, Eldo, what else? I am PSYCHED!!!!
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Mar 5, 2010, 2:31 PM
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losbill wrote: Greg - Kevin's the hardman. I'm only out there to help keep a valued climbing partner relatively sane. Is Dad's Down East? If so, you have an opportunity to be a real hardman at Otter Cliffs. I'm looking forward to warm too. Let's be sure to rope up this year. I've upped my game a bit and think I'm well in your grade range. How's the ankle? Looks to be a great weekend, plan to be at Crow Hill both days. Up to 1 PM on Saturday, midday on Sunday. See you there if you are planning to get out. Bill
actually, my Dad is in the mid-coast region (topsham - next door to brunswick) these days, but I'll be back in BH for a week or so starting next week visiting family.
Chile just had a second earthquake the other day. this one was something like 6.5 and it was north of Santiago, so it is considered a separate event. this makes travelling down there a bit more difficult, so I may actually be around this summer. I'm bummed if that is the case, but I'll definitely have more free time mid-week for climbing if that is the case.
Jen and I got out to Red Rocks a couple of weeks ago. TR on that coming up at some point (I'm swamped with writing work at the moment - something I'm happy with - but it's all fiction and I'm trying to get some stuff to an agent. she hasn't accepted yet, but I'm working it). It was cold the second day. Damn cold and we struggled but got through it. A rheumatologist gave me a drug to help circulation for this purpose and it might have worked because my fingers and toes were as cold as my body, and they're usually the first to go. So maybe I can out earlier than I have in past years before I go down there.
If not, I'll be in red rocks in early april and then in colorado for a few weeks with Jeremiah.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 5, 2010, 3:23 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: If not, I'll be in red rocks in early april and then in colorado for a few weeks with Jeremiah.
Can't wait for that trip report. Hehe!
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Gmburns2000
Mar 5, 2010, 3:31 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: If not, I'll be in red rocks in early april and then in colorado for a few weeks with Jeremiah. Can't wait for that trip report. Hehe!
there'll be lots, and lots, and lots of them this year, too. 
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cracklover
Mar 5, 2010, 9:39 PM
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losbill wrote: Gabe -- quality of the rock, moves and crack were great but maybe a bit low in grade, 5.7/5.8 for you.
I know what you mean, but really, I like aesthetic lines, I'm not a grade snob. Though really, I'm surprised to hear you say that; from the way the rope hangs free, it looks like it overhangs the entire way.
GO
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c4c
Mar 6, 2010, 2:35 AM
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cracklover wrote: losbill wrote: Gabe -- quality of the rock, moves and crack were great but maybe a bit low in grade, 5.7/5.8 for you. I know what you mean, but really, I like aesthetic lines, I'm not a grade snob. Though really, I'm surprised to hear you say that; from the way the rope hangs free, it looks like it overhangs the entire way. GO
Bill is a sandbagger.
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jakedatc
Mar 7, 2010, 5:05 AM
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Bill, I finally got back on Jugline today and finished the redpoint. so i can now say that i will most likely never get on that again. the top is still oddly bolted and awkward as hell. I think gabe concurs.
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losbill
Mar 7, 2010, 1:31 PM
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Jake --- Congrats on finishing up with Jugline. There is something said for finishing unfinished business. What was the temp up there? It was 50 at CH. Had a good time but at one point I was thinking it was getting close to time for an early season Rumney "burn fest". I must have felt the vibes as you were climbing Jugline. Vaguely remembered following someone on it a several years ago after I was there with you. The only thing I remember was it was damn awkward to clean. Ed and I were at Bonsai more recently (w/i last 3 years) on the "pieces (peace)". Ed took a look at Jugline but after hearing your and my feelings about the climb didn't get on it.
Hey Todd! Been following Jay and your exploits on Mountain Project this ice season. I don't know much about ice but seems as if Crystal Breeze was a high quality FA. Good job! Talking about finishing unfinished business, looking forward to getting back out your way and getting the 2nd P of E-Stim done and taking a go at Parallel Passage on lead. Speaking of sand-bagging. Are we sure 40' of strenuous layback on a dead vertical face doesn't rate at least a 5.9+?
Josh very envious of the climbing travel plans. My travel budget is pretty limited. Priority one is vacation plans with Bon and unfortunately she doesn't climb much anymore. Will be hitting the Gunks and Cannon pretty frequently as usual but now that I'm pushing my lead grade a bit more things are opening up for me at Cathedral and Whitehorse. And, of course, definitely more time in the Daks! So much climbing, so little time!!! Kevin, "the hardest 5.8 in the world", says hi to you and Tiff
Off to boulder. Bill
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jakedatc
Mar 7, 2010, 2:34 PM
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Ed would probably do fine on it.. he is taller and can reach out to the bolts easier. According to Dave Quinn he originally bolted those top 2 even further to the left and folks told him to move them in. the thought process to put bolts way out there when you have a bomber layback going the other way is beyond me but oh well.
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cracklover
Mar 7, 2010, 6:14 PM
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losbill wrote: Jake --- Congrats on finishing up with Jugline. There is something said for finishing unfinished business. What was the temp up there? It was 50 at CH.
It was also around 50 in Rumney. With the uninterrupted sun all day, it was perfect, really. Thanks, Jake, for going with me!
Speaking of unfinished business, I got on a very fun line called Technosurfing. I ran out of oomph, and as it was near the end of the day, only had time for one run on it. But it was superb, and now I'll have unfinished business hanging over my head for who knows how long until I get a chance to come back.
Ah well, as Jake reminded me, the rock isn't going anywhere.
Jake, Jen, Josh, Alison, Cory, and Alex, it was really great to see you guys!
Later!
GO
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AntinJ
Mar 8, 2010, 3:28 PM
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Sorry to drag the ice season out for those of you already on the rocks (there were 17 cars in the Farley lot yesterday!).
Any word on Aubrun Ice conditions? Is it still Climbable?
-J
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robbovius
Mar 8, 2010, 5:52 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Sorry to drag the ice season out for those of you already on the rocks (there were 17 cars in the Farley lot yesterday!). Any word on Aubrun Ice conditions? Is it still Climbable? -J
HA! that video I posted a page ago was the last good day. Auburn is gone until next season.
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