|
medicus
Apr 13, 2007, 2:18 AM
Post #26 of 78
(2876 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 727
|
kane_schutzman wrote: Buy 100 cams-Look like a badass Buy 100 draws-Look like an idiot with 100 draws.
Lol... I'll refrain from commenting too much on this one 
|
|
|
|
|
quietpartner
Apr 13, 2007, 7:23 AM
Post #27 of 78
(2835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2006
Posts: 54
|
Why trad? It gets you in touch with your inner engineer, the one behind your navel.
|
|
|
|
|
xjlx
Apr 13, 2007, 2:31 PM
Post #28 of 78
(2790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 122
|
ha ha .. no Iowa is limestone/dolomite to rotting dolomite ... not exactly everyone's idea of a trad climbing paradise. Surprisingly we have some walls approaching the 100ft range, maybe closer to 80-90ft. The bottom half of these taller walls is usually low angle, covered in veg/tree and mud. So the "multi" was more practice than anything else, although it also helped with rope drag.
As for the 5.3 that took my trad cherry, as I said earlier, Iowa doesn't see a lot of trad traffic, had been done, just not named as far as I or my partner knew.
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Apr 13, 2007, 2:50 PM
Post #29 of 78
(2778 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
One facet of trad that facinates me is gear placement as a form of expression. Given an unmarred wall, you get to tell the tail of your reckoning. Are there badly placed pieces every two feet? ...a tail of wanting for confidence. Are there artfully placed pieces, efficiently placed? ...a work of ingenuity, or wisedom and experience. Are there huge runnouts? ...a tail of boldness, perhaps even hubris. A deeply personal undertaking.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Apr 13, 2007, 3:19 PM
Post #30 of 78
(2756 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route, IMO. Someday I will be leading 10's on gear, and I know they will demand more than the bolted 10's I am on right now. I don't know if I will ever be working bolted 12's, but I would venture a guess that gear 10's will taste just as sweet. The great thing is, I appreciate all aspects of climbing no matter how protected, or unprotected it might be. When I started I said I would never touch gear, bolts was all I wanted. Then I tasted some trad and was hooked. So I was wrong, but I would never free solo anything, that's crazy. So here I sit fresh off my first free solo, like I said I never would. I am such a liar. ;)
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Apr 13, 2007, 3:45 PM
Post #31 of 78
(2737 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Hubris.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 13, 2007, 3:49 PM
Post #32 of 78
(2736 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
Because to do the climbs that most inspire me I must lead on gear, multi pitch, finger cracks......mmmmmmm.
Some rock is worse and more dangerous than other types, certain routes are also more dangerous. Some has loose blocks, is very soft or just doesn't have places to place gear. But there is also bullet hard rock out there where you could get gear every 3 feet if you wanted to. Once you gain experiance you start to pick and choose. But yes, trad climbing can be dangerous, just do what you can accept.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Apr 13, 2007, 3:54 PM
Post #33 of 78
(2727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
Ethics and practicality aside - it's a different kind of experience. Love it or leave it.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 13, 2007, 3:55 PM
Post #34 of 78
(2724 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
zealotnoob wrote: One facet of trad that facinates me is gear placement as a form of expression. Given an unmarred wall, you get to tell the tail of your reckoning. Are there badly placed pieces every two feet? ...a tail of wanting for confidence. Are there artfully placed pieces, efficiently placed? ...a work of ingenuity, or wisedom and experience. Are there huge runnouts? ...a tail of boldness, perhaps even hubris. A deeply personal undertaking.
I think you're making an awfully big deal about putting nuts and cams in cracks.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 13, 2007, 3:59 PM
Post #35 of 78
(2719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
cchildre wrote: Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route
"5.8 sport" is practically a contradiction. How about leading a run out 5.8 on gear vs climbing difficult and gymnastic 5.12.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Apr 13, 2007, 4:02 PM
Post #36 of 78
(2714 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Agreed. Was there something else?
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Apr 13, 2007, 4:22 PM
Post #37 of 78
(2689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
Dude, boulders have hella more balls...
I was on a route last weekend and couldn't put a piece of pro in until 25-30 feet up (nothing harder than V2) and I almost pissed in my pants. But man. boulders routinely top out that high on a V-sick problem.
|
|
|
|
|
begood77
Apr 13, 2007, 5:24 PM
Post #38 of 78
(2644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 65
|
Pretty views.
|
|
|
|
|
xjlx
Apr 13, 2007, 8:03 PM
Post #40 of 78
(2560 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 122
|
maybe the case, although I have seen quite a few of the lower grades in various guide books, and in the route db.
|
|
|
|
|
m2j1s
Apr 13, 2007, 9:16 PM
Post #41 of 78
(2536 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2006
Posts: 77
|
imagine a sport route where you could clip a bolt wherever and whenever you get sketched out. Many times trad climbing is like that, you can run out the easy parts and zip up the hard parts, it gives .some sweet piece of mind getting sketched out and popping in a cam above your head. thats not such an easy thing to do on a sport route however...
|
|
|
|
|
kyote321
Apr 13, 2007, 9:30 PM
Post #42 of 78
(2526 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 636
|
because trad is the only real kind of climbing. sport climbers and boulders are only good because they are strong. if you aren't afraid, you aren't climbing.
driving a hummer at 120 = sport
riding a crotch rocket at 120 = trad
strong gym climbers are the true girly-men of the sport.
it is all about taking the risk of not living and climbing again another day. if you aren't living on the edge, you are taking up too much space.
be all you can be. be extremely extreme or go home.
|
|
|
|
|
krosbakken
Apr 13, 2007, 10:37 PM
Post #45 of 78
(2463 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2006
Posts: 581
|
bigfatrock wrote: I know sport has its risks as well, but I definitely trust a bolt drilled into the wall more than placing a cam that can walk and come loose.
I defiantly don't trust a bolt over a cam. Like vegastradguy said you don't know who placed it and stuff like that. With a cam I know how many falls it has taken, how old it is, what the Kn is, ect.
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
Apr 13, 2007, 10:45 PM
Post #46 of 78
(2458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
jt512 wrote: cchildre wrote: Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route "5.8 sport" is practically a contradiction. How about leading a run out 5.8 on gear vs climbing difficult and gymnastic 5.12. Jay
How about eating an apple vs eating an orange.
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
Apr 13, 2007, 11:11 PM
Post #47 of 78
(2440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
keithlester wrote: xjlx wrote: As for the 5.3 that took my trad cherry, as I said earlier, Iowa doesn't see a lot of trad traffic, had been done, just not named as far as I or my partner knew. Nobody would bother to write up a 5.3, surely. Its little more than steep walking. 
|
|
|
|
|
ja1484
Apr 13, 2007, 11:35 PM
Post #48 of 78
(2431 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
miavzero wrote: jt512 wrote: cchildre wrote: Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route "5.8 sport" is practically a contradiction. How about leading a run out 5.8 on gear vs climbing difficult and gymnastic 5.12. Jay How about eating an apple vs eating an orange.
Agreed. Comparing sport and trad is a bizarre exercise at best. They are largely different in so many aspects...
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Apr 14, 2007, 12:24 AM
Post #49 of 78
(2417 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
kyote321 wrote: be all you can be. be extremely extreme or go home.
hell yeah! that is one of the best mashed up multi-cliches I've ever seen!
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 14, 2007, 12:48 AM
Post #50 of 78
(2398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
miavzero wrote: jt512 wrote: cchildre wrote: Leading a run out 5.8 on gear, is by far more exciting and satsifying than a 5.8 sport route "5.8 sport" is practically a contradiction. How about leading a run out 5.8 on gear vs climbing difficult and gymnastic 5.12. Jay How about eating an apple vs eating an orange.
I prefer 5.12 sport and oranges.
That was tough.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
|
