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jakedatc
May 27, 2009, 5:53 PM
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ok first move is like.. V2? For me that left hand crimp isnt that bad.. especially if you brush it out like i always do. i kinda gaston the arete with my right. the foot is huge and the next hold is a jug so... BOULDER MORE! ;) seriously.. this is where bouldering really helps your route climbing.
It is harder without the fixed sling because it's a long reach to the bolt to clip your own long sling. (highly suggest either 1' or 2' sling for the last bolt) i just pull up.. clip the bolt... clip the rope. sag down and shake out before doing the next moves.
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Gmburns2000
May 28, 2009, 5:18 PM
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There's a few new posts up (one is about Jeremiah's recent day on Castleton) and This is a recent rainy weekend in the 'Gunks with Jen.
I think there will be a Farley post with Li up next week, and then another Gunks trip with Jen, Kurt and Rachel, and Corey and Alex soon after that.
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viajero
May 29, 2009, 8:09 PM
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Hey all,
I believe I know a couple of you from the crag, but nonetheless, I have next week off and am looking for a partner. I hope to climb at cathedral or the gunks, but I am down for anything. I have 12 years of experience, mostly sport, but have moderate trad experience(lead multi-pitch routes). Trad, lead 5.8, follow 5.11; Sport, lead/follow 5.12. I am 28 years old, male, a fulltime student, live in Boston, have a car, and a full rack up to #3 Cam. Let me know if interested! -Ryan
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Gmburns2000
Jun 1, 2009, 3:42 PM
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And the Farley post with LiClimbs is up.
I think the next one will be a nice send story from Memorial Day weekend with a list of massclimber characters mixed in. Otherwise, I'm so pumped after this weekend that I can barely pick up the damn phone. MOAN. WHIMPER. OUCH. WHIMPER.
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jakedatc
Jun 2, 2009, 11:01 PM
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Checked out Central rock gym last night since i was in Woostah for my meeting. Impressions are that it's a mini version of Metro rock with the bouldering area being a shorter version of Rock Spot (with a few less features). Walls are standard RockWerx style.. semi textured. Route setting in the boulder area was decent though some were just plain awkward and not well done. I figure they'll eventually figure this out once they get more experience setting. Pretty big but easily movable crashpads. could probably do with 1-2 more to have more coverage. Either way it was a nice cheap 10 bucks for bouldering and a good way to kill 3.5 hours before heading over to Ed's place to crash for the night
Thanks to Ed and his wife for letting me stay at their place.. saved so much time and driving.
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mtbkracr
Jun 3, 2009, 3:52 PM
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Hey Mass climbers,
I'm gonna be In Gloucester near the end of june for Fiesta and was wondering if anyone in the area was interested in meeting up to climb or boulder.
Josh
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skraeling
Jun 9, 2009, 12:29 AM
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I was at the quarries for the third time today solo climbing pins, layback and outside corner and saw some spray painters. They were tagging P wall. Some kids from another gang chased them off halfway through then left. The spray painters returned and finished the big tags.
Was there anything I could have done?
P.S. Almost on-sited Pins. When I tried it again I lost feeling in my index finger. Is this common in crack climbing? This was only my third or forth crack, I have been kinda a gym rat.
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c4c
Jun 9, 2009, 7:36 PM
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skraeling wrote: I was at the quarries for the third time today solo climbing pins, layback and outside corner and saw some spray painters. They were tagging P wall. Some kids from another gang chased them off halfway through then left. The spray painters returned and finished the big tags. Was there anything I could have done? P.S. Almost on-sited Pins. When I tried it again I lost feeling in my index finger. Is this common in crack climbing? This was only my third or forth crack, I have been kinda a gym rat.
Thats why you rack hexes.
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robbovius
Jun 10, 2009, 6:57 PM
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c4c wrote: skraeling wrote: I was at the quarries for the third time today solo climbing pins, layback and outside corner and saw some spray painters. They were tagging P wall. Some kids from another gang chased them off halfway through then left. The spray painters returned and finished the big tags. Was there anything I could have done? P.S. Almost on-sited Pins. When I tried it again I lost feeling in my index finger. Is this common in crack climbing? This was only my third or forth crack, I have been kinda a gym rat. Thats why you rack hexes.
...and orange and yellow tricams.
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jakedatc
Jun 20, 2009, 11:33 PM
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Kate and I might be hitting up Central rock gym tomorrow. Rob you wanna climb?
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jakedatc
Jun 21, 2009, 2:15 AM
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In reply to: If I never climb again at Rumney then I'll only be a little disappointed, but I can't be bothered to deal with the shirtless crowds that set up camp under their favorite projects all day so they and their cohorts can work the moves. No, I'm not talking about Waimea Wall; I can't even climb that hard in my dreams. I'm talking about getting away from the boisterous shouts of encouragement, the cigarettes, the dogs, the whimpering, powerful grunts, and the occasional radio.
you're doing it wrong.... just sayin'.
there are ways to avoid most if not all of that but if you wanna wake up at the ass crack of 10am and try to hit parking lot, meadows and 5.8 crag then you'll be sorely disappointed. 3 days easter weekend no lines, 3 days memorial day weekend no lines. :shrug: most routes were .10b and under. I've posted ways around this but clearly no one believes me.
comparing farley with like 12 sport routes and a few dozen trad lines to rumney with over 500 lines... 
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c4c
Jun 21, 2009, 2:43 AM
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i believe in you Jake
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Gmburns2000
Jun 21, 2009, 4:28 AM
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jakedatc wrote: In reply to: If I never climb again at Rumney then I'll only be a little disappointed, but I can't be bothered to deal with the shirtless crowds that set up camp under their favorite projects all day so they and their cohorts can work the moves. No, I'm not talking about Waimea Wall; I can't even climb that hard in my dreams. I'm talking about getting away from the boisterous shouts of encouragement, the cigarettes, the dogs, the whimpering, powerful grunts, and the occasional radio. you're doing it wrong.... just sayin'. there are ways to avoid most if not all of that but if you wanna wake up at the ass crack of 10am and try to hit parking lot, meadows and 5.8 crag then you'll be sorely disappointed. 3 days easter weekend no lines, 3 days memorial day weekend no lines. :shrug: most routes were .10b and under. I've posted ways around this but clearly no one believes me. comparing farley with like 12 sport routes and a few dozen trad lines to rumney with over 500 lines...
Actually, I hit Rumney pretty early when I go. And what's funny is that I almost always find the Meadows as the least crowded crag there.
Farley clearly doesn't have the magnitude that Rumney does, but Rumney also doesn't have the solitude.
It all depends on what you seek. I very obviously seek different things than you do, which is also obviously fine.
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robbovius
Jun 23, 2009, 11:13 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Kate and I might be hitting up Central rock gym tomorrow. Rob you wanna climb?
I'll be there at 5:30 tonight, some of my other non rc.com climbing friends will too. Shane might be able to make it.
OH BTW if anyone cares, EMS is selling both the gray and black (Trapps and Nears/Millbrook) Dick Williams gunks guidebooks these days. I've got both now.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 23, 2009, 11:23 AM)
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cracklover
Jun 23, 2009, 2:57 PM
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robbovius wrote: jakedatc wrote: Kate and I might be hitting up Central rock gym tomorrow. Rob you wanna climb? I'll be there at 5:30 tonight, some of my other non rc.com climbing friends will too. Shane might be able to make it. OH BTW if anyone cares, EMS is selling both the gray and black (Trapps and Nears/Millbrook) Dick Williams gunks guidebooks these days. I've got both now.
Whatever you do, just don't buy that new crappy color one (I forget who wrote/published it). For whatever reason, there seem to be a lot of them in stores. Pretty photos in it, though, I'll give them that.
GO
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robbovius
Jun 23, 2009, 3:59 PM
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cracklover wrote: robbovius wrote: jakedatc wrote: Kate and I might be hitting up Central rock gym tomorrow. Rob you wanna climb? I'll be there at 5:30 tonight, some of my other non rc.com climbing friends will too. Shane might be able to make it. OH BTW if anyone cares, EMS is selling both the gray and black (Trapps and Nears/Millbrook) Dick Williams gunks guidebooks these days. I've got both now. Whatever you do, just don't buy that new crappy color one (I forget who wrote/published it). For whatever reason, there seem to be a lot of them in stores. Pretty photos in it, though, I'll give them that. GO
what? no these are gray and black (or a really dark maroon) with a salamander on the front. no color pics. they look just like all the tattered and dog-eared Williams guides I've seen in the hands of others at the Deli at breakfast before hitting the crags.
now I have my own, and the swain can stay here at my desk, for daydreaming.
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jakedatc
Jun 23, 2009, 4:44 PM
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Rob i'm pretty sure i'm down for tonight.
Gabe means the new "rock climbing the shawagunks" craptastic "guide" that seems to be a big time failz
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robbovius
Jun 23, 2009, 7:09 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Rob i'm pretty sure i'm down for tonight. Gabe means the new "rock climbing the shawagunks" craptastic "guide" that seems to be a big time failz
ooohh, okay. haven't seen that.
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jakedatc
Jun 24, 2009, 4:00 AM
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Good times Rob! good lead work out for sure. lets see.. i did the .8 test, 9 jugs, 10d long thing, orange 10b, 8 face, maybe another face 9? then after you left i did the 11a yellow and half of the dark green 11c with Joe
definitely a good training area for leading steep stuff. i think the steep jugs might be better for your fingers than the techy face stuff? your endurance will improve quickly if you do those steep things more regularly
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robbovius
Jun 24, 2009, 11:18 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Good times Rob! good lead work out for sure. lets see.. i did the .8 test, 9 jugs, 10d long thing, orange 10b, 8 face, maybe another face 9? then after you left i did the 11a yellow and half of the dark green 11c with Joe definitely a good training area for leading steep stuff. i think the steep jugs might be better for your fingers than the techy face stuff? your endurance will improve quickly if you do those steep things more regularly
yeah that was an excellent session. couple lead laps on the test .8, got most of that steep brown .9 , that yellow .9 on the pillar with one hang, that other orange .8 on the back wall area...I agree, I need to stay away from the crimpy shiat for a while, those steep jug hauls are da bamb!
I also think I need to not clip until the bolt is closer to my waist, so i don't fumble with pulling the rope so much. the top of my left shoulder feels a little strained. My fingers dont' hurt any worse than they did yesterday, sort of.
good times man, though now that i have climbed sport, I suppose it means I have to go to rumney... NOOOOOO!!!! ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 24, 2009, 11:19 AM)
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jakedatc
Jun 24, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Not necessarily.. i clip wherever the best hold is for clipping.. sometimes that is lower.. sometimes it's higher up. Just gotta get used to relaxing and being able to clip quickly under pressure and steepage
Rumney this weekend i think :)
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AntinJ
Jun 24, 2009, 11:59 AM
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Rob, Jake, Etc:
I frequent MetroRock, as 99% of my climbing partners meet there during the week. But I work in Marlborough, MA which is just a short drive from CRG.
Is it worth buying a day pass to explore?
-J
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robbovius
Jun 24, 2009, 1:49 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Rob, Jake, Etc: I frequent MetroRock, as 99% of my climbing partners meet there during the week. But I work in Marlborough, MA which is just a short drive from CRG. Is it worth buying a day pass to explore? -J
yeah, I think so. its a nice gym, well put together. Jake has mentioned its like a smaller metrorock. I have yet to get on one that I didn't like, or that seemed not well thought out - beyind the ladder-y .5s and .6s on the on the mezzanine used for training/total beginners. in fact there's this .8 called "The Wanderer" up on the mezzanine that I really like.
have you checked out their website? you can get a look at the facility.
http://www.centralrockgym.com/
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robbovius
Jun 24, 2009, 1:53 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Not necessarily.. i clip wherever the best hold is for clipping.. sometimes that is lower.. sometimes it's higher up. Just gotta get used to relaxing and being able to clip quickly under pressure and steepage Rumney this weekend i think :)
very true, especially about the steepage. except for pumping out on that brown .9 just before it got non-steep, I thought I was doing okay ;-)
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