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angry
Nov 29, 2009, 12:46 AM
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sbaclimber wrote: camhead wrote: why does my original statement ring so true? Because 99% of the time, it is true. I am simply proposing that the other 1% might be the middle ground that you claim doesn't exist. .....or I am a complete gumby 
I'd take that bet.
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coastal_climber
Nov 29, 2009, 1:36 AM
Post #53 of 794
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curt wrote: camhead wrote: I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this... [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/6/193136-largest_29281.jpg[/image] Curt
badass!
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wanderlustmd
Nov 29, 2009, 1:39 AM
Post #54 of 794
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curt wrote: camhead wrote: I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this...  Curt
(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Nov 29, 2009, 1:39 AM)
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 1:48 AM
Post #55 of 794
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curt wrote: camhead wrote: I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this... Curt
Old Fart with dementia? 
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markc
Nov 29, 2009, 2:14 AM
Post #56 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off.
Sorry, I have to disagree. I don't think GYB is sandbagged at 5.9. Once you're past the thin start, it's a one-move route. I'm not a hard or bold climber, and you and your friend probably climb harder than I do. I don't think claiming the route is sandbagged paints him in a better light.
I'm glad your friend is okay. The ground in the pit there isn't great, and you have that big shelf a short way out from the base. Even though it's a short route, clipping that with your head may well be the end of you.
I have yet to free solo, so I can't contribute to that discussion. I've found the idea tempting on longer, easier routes, where you could really get into the flow of the moves. The idea of free soloing at a short sport crag like Breakneck has little appeal.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 29, 2009, 3:19 AM
Post #57 of 794
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markc wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: The crux move on that climb is a little sandbagged, i've been on 10's that feel easier. And its a friction move, you have a shitty 2-finger pocket with your left hand, then you get your right foot way up on a really slopy bump and you have to stand up on it slowly, it feel like its going to pop off. Sorry, I have to disagree. I don't think GYB is sandbagged at 5.9. Once you're past the thin start, it's a one-move route. I'm not a hard or bold climber, and you and your friend probably climb harder than I do. I don't think claiming the route is sandbagged paints him in a better light. I'm glad your friend is okay. The ground in the pit there isn't great, and you have that big shelf a short way out from the base. Even though it's a short route, clipping that with your head may well be the end of you. I have yet to free solo, so I can't contribute to that discussion. I've found the idea tempting on longer, easier routes, where you could really get into the flow of the moves. The idea of free soloing at a short sport crag like Breakneck has little appeal.
Yea you're probably right, its not incredibly sandbagged. More like a 5.9+. I deffinately have been on 10's that have easier crux sections then GYB tho. For example, "New School" is a 10a on the same wall that feels a little easier. Deffinately a sketchy landing. Like i said, it was amazing odds that he fell one time out of fifty, when he didn't have a rope on.
Breakneck to me has alot of solo appeal, the routes are fairly short, all with easy top outs. It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you.
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trapdoor
Nov 29, 2009, 3:39 AM
Post #58 of 794
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For being able to climb "5.12" he didn't climb that 5.9 too smooth before he fell.
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #59 of 794
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"CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you.
That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 29, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #60 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: "CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you. That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing.
You have?
I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag. I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter.
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sungam
Nov 29, 2009, 7:05 PM
Post #61 of 794
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Well, my flatmate decked off the topout on an unprotectable grit arete of reasonable E value at Burbage and hit the ground running. He stuck with bouldering the rest of the day.
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curt
Nov 29, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #62 of 794
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(OT) Hey Magnus--how is Burbage anyway? I've only been to Froggat and Stanage.
Curt
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sungam
Nov 29, 2009, 7:33 PM
Post #63 of 794
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curt wrote: (OT) Hey Magnus--how is Burbage anyway? I've only been to Froggat and Stanage. Curt
Edit to add: If you come this grit season we can go check it out... I'm sure my flatmate would show us around.
(This post was edited by sungam on Nov 29, 2009, 7:58 PM)
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 7:55 PM
Post #64 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: "CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you. That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing. You have?
No, but I have a very good friend who climbs grit around 100 days a year then comes back to the U.S. and climbs all over the country for another 100. Climbing with my friend over the past five years I have gained a good understanding of Grit climbing and how it compares to the climbing around the U.S.
CrazyPetie wrote: I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag.
Yet you did.
CrazyPetie wrote: I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter.
Actually it dose matter. Falling on a typical Gritstone route generally means your dead or at best you won't be climbing the rest of the season while you wait for your bones to heal.
You seem to think that falling un-roped at Breakneck will mess you up but not kill you.
Now to me those differences do matter.
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jermanimal
Nov 29, 2009, 9:26 PM
Post #65 of 794
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coastal_climber wrote: You have to solo for yourself, by yourself. When you have to have to have the camera on you to do it, your doing it for the wrong reasons.
I agree totally.
Solo is to be done solo, it is an asshole move to show off and mess around like this.
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rockandlice
Nov 29, 2009, 9:52 PM
Post #66 of 794
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Are you serious with this shit? What a total tool shed.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 29, 2009, 10:00 PM
Post #67 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: "CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you. That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing. You have? No, but I have a very good friend who climbs grit around 100 days a year then comes back to the U.S. and climbs all over the country for another 100. Climbing with my friend over the past five years I have gained a good understanding of Grit climbing and how it compares to the climbing around the U.S. CrazyPetie wrote: I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag. Yet you did. CrazyPetie wrote: I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter. Actually it dose matter. Falling on a typical Gritstone route generally means your dead or at best you won't be climbing the rest of the season while you wait for your bones to heal. You seem to think that falling un-roped at Breakneck will mess you up but not kill you. Now to me those differences do matter.
Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there.
Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck? You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.
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sungam
Nov 29, 2009, 10:24 PM
Post #68 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: "CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you. That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing. You have? No, but I have a very good friend who climbs grit around 100 days a year then comes back to the U.S. and climbs all over the country for another 100. Climbing with my friend over the past five years I have gained a good understanding of Grit climbing and how it compares to the climbing around the U.S. CrazyPetie wrote: I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag. Yet you did. CrazyPetie wrote: I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter. Actually it dose matter. Falling on a typical Gritstone route generally means your dead or at best you won't be climbing the rest of the season while you wait for your bones to heal. You seem to think that falling un-roped at Breakneck will mess you up but not kill you. Now to me those differences do matter. Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there. Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck? You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 10:39 PM
Post #69 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there.Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck?
How much gritstone have you climbed?
How many different locations have you climbed in the U.S.?
Until you gain some experience outside of your own backyard I think I'll keep on listening to my friend Alicia when comparing rock types and styles to various crags around the world, including gritstone.
Besides, I wouldn't free solo a route with such a zoo of people around me.
CrazyPetie wrote: You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.
Hmm, my profile that was last updated 2 ½ years ago shows me onsite trad leading at a low 5.10. Your profile which was updated seven months ago shows you redpointing a low 512. Yeah, I’m the one who is going to have a hard time climbing in Breakneck.
Now I’m not saying that I’m great climber, quite the contrary. But you’re and even bigger idiot than I though if you judge someone’s climbing skills and accomplishments biased on an online profile that’s 2 ½ years old.
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camhead
Nov 29, 2009, 10:45 PM
Post #70 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: Besides, I wouldn't free solo a route with such a zoo of people around me.
Heh; last time I soloed something it was in the middle of a zoo of people. I wanted to climb, was kind of cranky, and right after one group of people pulled their toprope, and another was getting ready to queue up, I butted in line and ran up it. It shut all the gumbies up, definitely.
But, I did not fall, and most importantly, I WAS NOT WEARING SOCKS!
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curt
Nov 29, 2009, 10:47 PM
Post #71 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: "CrazyPetie wrote: It kind of reminds me of gritstone routes because of the friction type moves with landings that will mess you up quite a bit but most likely not kill you. That right there shows that you haven't been around much gritstone climbing. You have? No, but I have a very good friend who climbs grit around 100 days a year then comes back to the U.S. and climbs all over the country for another 100. Climbing with my friend over the past five years I have gained a good understanding of Grit climbing and how it compares to the climbing around the U.S. CrazyPetie wrote: I mean you cant really compare breakneck to "UK gritstone" logically. Breakneck is a sport crag. Yet you did. CrazyPetie wrote: I guess i'm just saying the consequense for falling when your soloing at breakneck would be similar to the consequnce of falling while doing a grit stone route. Either way, the idea is not to fall, so it really doesn't matter. Actually it dose matter. Falling on a typical Gritstone route generally means your dead or at best you won't be climbing the rest of the season while you wait for your bones to heal. You seem to think that falling un-roped at Breakneck will mess you up but not kill you. Now to me those differences do matter. Oh i forgot that I see you at breakneck all the time. You surely know exactly what its like there. Why dont you go do some gritstone, then come do some soloing at breakneck? You'll be able to compare your injuries because you surely will fall in both places, seeing that you max out at 5.10.
Are you and all of your friends assholes, or just idiots? I suppose I should not assume malice where simple stupidity will suffice.
Curt
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 10:48 PM
Post #73 of 794
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camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Besides, I wouldn't free solo a route with such a zoo of people around me. Heh; last time I soloed something it was in the middle of a zoo of people. I wanted to climb, was kind of cranky, and right after one group of people pulled their toprope, and another was getting ready to queue up, I butted in line and ran up it. It shut all the gumbies up, definitely. But, I did not fall, and most importantly, I WAS NOT WEARING SOCKS!
As long and you weren’t wearing socks. 
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sungam
Nov 29, 2009, 10:51 PM
Post #74 of 794
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camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Besides, I wouldn't free solo a route with such a zoo of people around me. Heh; last time I soloed something it was in the middle of a zoo of people. I wanted to climb, was kind of cranky, and right after one group of people pulled their toprope, and another was getting ready to queue up, I butted in line and ran up it. It shut all the gumbies up, definitely. But, I did not fall, and most importantly, I WAS NOT WEARING SOCKS!
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chadnsc
Nov 29, 2009, 10:53 PM
Post #75 of 794
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Sungam I though you climbed wearing socks? Oh wait, it wasn't on you feet.
Sorry. 
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