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granite_grrl
Apr 24, 2015, 12:46 PM
Post #104801 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I've been getting moar serious about this hangboarding thing. Adding/subtracting weight, etc. While I'm still not feeling so trashed after a workout that I need 72 hours of rest, I'm definitely getting a better workout now. I think I mentioned that I've just been doing the beginner workout out of the Manderson book, at least until my fingers didn't feel so tweaky anymore. I was thinking of moving on to the intermediate workout later this week though now that I'm getting stuff sorted out. There's no benefit to sticking to the beginner workout instead of moving on to the intermediate workout, is there? Interested in this too- I'm assuming I'll just do beginner for the whole period, but what if it feels too easy? I guess I'd take off assisted weight, not sure if my goal should be increased time and reps or to get down to body weight- but what if I can't ever get down to body weight? Getting to body weight isn't really the main goal, unless you plan to one-arm jump-campus everything? If you go from hanging with 60lb subtraction at the start, and get to 30lb subtraction at the end, that's pretty darn awesome. In the next cycle you would maybe start at -50, and end at -20, and so on. Sure, eventually you'd get to body weight and even more, but it might take multiple cycles. The goal is to get better at holds that you can't hang onto, with body weight. I usually have one hold that I am starting at body weight or slightly more, and will be adding a lot of weight by the end (this is a warm-up hold) 3-4 holds that I am starting at 10-15 lb subtraction (so halfway through the cycle I would be moving into positive weight territory) and 2-3 holds that I have to subtract a LOT of weight, and might never get to body weight. For example the pinches on the Manderson hangboard are brutal!!! I have finally gotten to +2.5lb on medium pinch, after 3 cycles of hangboard. I started the first cycle at -50, and got stuck at -20, couldn't get better. Teh next cycle I started at -45, and got to -12.5, again, getting stuck and not getting better over multiple workouts, And then finally, finally, in the 3rd round it felt like, gee, I can do this, I kept adding weight in every workout, and went into positives. So I only have 27.5 pounds of weight at my apartment for me to take weight off, so I started mostly on larger holds (especially since my fingers were really not used to the strain I was putting on them). Anyway, point on the dudes story is that as I'm increasing weight on the hold my finger hurt so bad! It's a bit of a strain on my winter fingers, but I'm talking skin issues here. Anyway, I just asked Nathan is he had any more weights he could take up here for me. I'm thinking I should get off the larger holds and bump the subtracted weight way up. I also figure if I'm rejiggering my workout I should try switching over to the intermediate workout. Shorter hang might put a little less strain on my fingers, even though there's more total volume to the workout. Still haven't gotten pinches, and while I asked Nathan to make them for me he apparently needs a CAD drawing before he'll do it. I'm not sure what's going to work best so I told him to just make some up and we'll see how they work. The skin always hurts like hell on big holds, that are larger than one pad. Get to small crimps ASAP!
Nathan is brining me 40lbs of plates when he come up tonight. He thinks I should just toughen my hand up, but he obviously doesn't understand. It's stupid too because finger strength is his biggest issues in climbing by a long shot. I don't know why he won't do a hang board cycle.
Mo is going to have to take off a shit ton of weight by doing the hang board thing one handed.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 24, 2015, 5:30 PM
Post #104802 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I've been getting moar serious about this hangboarding thing. Adding/subtracting weight, etc. While I'm still not feeling so trashed after a workout that I need 72 hours of rest, I'm definitely getting a better workout now. I think I mentioned that I've just been doing the beginner workout out of the Manderson book, at least until my fingers didn't feel so tweaky anymore. I was thinking of moving on to the intermediate workout later this week though now that I'm getting stuff sorted out. There's no benefit to sticking to the beginner workout instead of moving on to the intermediate workout, is there? Interested in this too- I'm assuming I'll just do beginner for the whole period, but what if it feels too easy? I guess I'd take off assisted weight, not sure if my goal should be increased time and reps or to get down to body weight- but what if I can't ever get down to body weight? Getting to body weight isn't really the main goal, unless you plan to one-arm jump-campus everything? If you go from hanging with 60lb subtraction at the start, and get to 30lb subtraction at the end, that's pretty darn awesome. In the next cycle you would maybe start at -50, and end at -20, and so on. Sure, eventually you'd get to body weight and even more, but it might take multiple cycles. The goal is to get better at holds that you can't hang onto, with body weight. I usually have one hold that I am starting at body weight or slightly more, and will be adding a lot of weight by the end (this is a warm-up hold) 3-4 holds that I am starting at 10-15 lb subtraction (so halfway through the cycle I would be moving into positive weight territory) and 2-3 holds that I have to subtract a LOT of weight, and might never get to body weight. For example the pinches on the Manderson hangboard are brutal!!! I have finally gotten to +2.5lb on medium pinch, after 3 cycles of hangboard. I started the first cycle at -50, and got stuck at -20, couldn't get better. Teh next cycle I started at -45, and got to -12.5, again, getting stuck and not getting better over multiple workouts, And then finally, finally, in the 3rd round it felt like, gee, I can do this, I kept adding weight in every workout, and went into positives. So I only have 27.5 pounds of weight at my apartment for me to take weight off, so I started mostly on larger holds (especially since my fingers were really not used to the strain I was putting on them). Anyway, point on the dudes story is that as I'm increasing weight on the hold my finger hurt so bad! It's a bit of a strain on my winter fingers, but I'm talking skin issues here. Anyway, I just asked Nathan is he had any more weights he could take up here for me. I'm thinking I should get off the larger holds and bump the subtracted weight way up. I also figure if I'm rejiggering my workout I should try switching over to the intermediate workout. Shorter hang might put a little less strain on my fingers, even though there's more total volume to the workout. Still haven't gotten pinches, and while I asked Nathan to make them for me he apparently needs a CAD drawing before he'll do it. I'm not sure what's going to work best so I told him to just make some up and we'll see how they work. The skin always hurts like hell on big holds, that are larger than one pad. Get to small crimps ASAP! Nathan is brining me 40lbs of plates when he come up tonight. He thinks I should just toughen my hand up, but he obviously doesn't understand. It's stupid too because finger strength is his biggest issues in climbing by a long shot. I don't know why he won't do a hang board cycle. Mo is going to have to take off a shit ton of weight by doing the hang board thing one handed.
Yeah, no kidding! Though Mo is strong sauce, and I suppose she could have some kind of a sling for the gimp arm, to take some weight off?
Anyway, I'll second the skin hurts like hell on bigger holds. I was actually fine on pinches, even though there was a lot of skin contact, but deep finger pockets where you go past the knuckle, or just at the bend... holy cow, those hurt the skin.
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camhead
Apr 24, 2015, 8:31 PM
Post #104803 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I've been getting moar serious about this hangboarding thing. Adding/subtracting weight, etc. While I'm still not feeling so trashed after a workout that I need 72 hours of rest, I'm definitely getting a better workout now. I think I mentioned that I've just been doing the beginner workout out of the Manderson book, at least until my fingers didn't feel so tweaky anymore. I was thinking of moving on to the intermediate workout later this week though now that I'm getting stuff sorted out. There's no benefit to sticking to the beginner workout instead of moving on to the intermediate workout, is there? Interested in this too- I'm assuming I'll just do beginner for the whole period, but what if it feels too easy? I guess I'd take off assisted weight, not sure if my goal should be increased time and reps or to get down to body weight- but what if I can't ever get down to body weight? Getting to body weight isn't really the main goal, unless you plan to one-arm jump-campus everything? If you go from hanging with 60lb subtraction at the start, and get to 30lb subtraction at the end, that's pretty darn awesome. In the next cycle you would maybe start at -50, and end at -20, and so on. Sure, eventually you'd get to body weight and even more, but it might take multiple cycles. The goal is to get better at holds that you can't hang onto, with body weight. I usually have one hold that I am starting at body weight or slightly more, and will be adding a lot of weight by the end (this is a warm-up hold) 3-4 holds that I am starting at 10-15 lb subtraction (so halfway through the cycle I would be moving into positive weight territory) and 2-3 holds that I have to subtract a LOT of weight, and might never get to body weight. For example the pinches on the Manderson hangboard are brutal!!! I have finally gotten to +2.5lb on medium pinch, after 3 cycles of hangboard. I started the first cycle at -50, and got stuck at -20, couldn't get better. Teh next cycle I started at -45, and got to -12.5, again, getting stuck and not getting better over multiple workouts, And then finally, finally, in the 3rd round it felt like, gee, I can do this, I kept adding weight in every workout, and went into positives. So I only have 27.5 pounds of weight at my apartment for me to take weight off, so I started mostly on larger holds (especially since my fingers were really not used to the strain I was putting on them). Anyway, point on the dudes story is that as I'm increasing weight on the hold my finger hurt so bad! It's a bit of a strain on my winter fingers, but I'm talking skin issues here. Anyway, I just asked Nathan is he had any more weights he could take up here for me. I'm thinking I should get off the larger holds and bump the subtracted weight way up. I also figure if I'm rejiggering my workout I should try switching over to the intermediate workout. Shorter hang might put a little less strain on my fingers, even though there's more total volume to the workout. Still haven't gotten pinches, and while I asked Nathan to make them for me he apparently needs a CAD drawing before he'll do it. I'm not sure what's going to work best so I told him to just make some up and we'll see how they work. The skin always hurts like hell on big holds, that are larger than one pad. Get to small crimps ASAP! Nathan is brining me 40lbs of plates when he come up tonight. He thinks I should just toughen my hand up, but he obviously doesn't understand. It's stupid too because finger strength is his biggest issues in climbing by a long shot. I don't know why he won't do a hang board cycle. Mo is going to have to take off a shit ton of weight by doing the hang board thing one handed. Yeah, no kidding! Though Mo is strong sauce, and I suppose she could have some kind of a sling for the gimp arm, to take some weight off? Anyway, I'll second the skin hurts like hell on bigger holds. I was actually fine on pinches, even though there was a lot of skin contact, but deep finger pockets where you go past the knuckle, or just at the bend... holy cow, those hurt the skin.
I hope to gawd mo does not try just one handed hanging. She needs to hang by stumpy, and then add whatever weight she needs to get to failure. It is unlikely that she'll have to take weight off while hanging with stumpy.
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granite_grrl
Apr 27, 2015, 11:35 AM
Post #104804 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I've been getting moar serious about this hangboarding thing. Adding/subtracting weight, etc. While I'm still not feeling so trashed after a workout that I need 72 hours of rest, I'm definitely getting a better workout now. I think I mentioned that I've just been doing the beginner workout out of the Manderson book, at least until my fingers didn't feel so tweaky anymore. I was thinking of moving on to the intermediate workout later this week though now that I'm getting stuff sorted out. There's no benefit to sticking to the beginner workout instead of moving on to the intermediate workout, is there? Interested in this too- I'm assuming I'll just do beginner for the whole period, but what if it feels too easy? I guess I'd take off assisted weight, not sure if my goal should be increased time and reps or to get down to body weight- but what if I can't ever get down to body weight? Getting to body weight isn't really the main goal, unless you plan to one-arm jump-campus everything? If you go from hanging with 60lb subtraction at the start, and get to 30lb subtraction at the end, that's pretty darn awesome. In the next cycle you would maybe start at -50, and end at -20, and so on. Sure, eventually you'd get to body weight and even more, but it might take multiple cycles. The goal is to get better at holds that you can't hang onto, with body weight. I usually have one hold that I am starting at body weight or slightly more, and will be adding a lot of weight by the end (this is a warm-up hold) 3-4 holds that I am starting at 10-15 lb subtraction (so halfway through the cycle I would be moving into positive weight territory) and 2-3 holds that I have to subtract a LOT of weight, and might never get to body weight. For example the pinches on the Manderson hangboard are brutal!!! I have finally gotten to +2.5lb on medium pinch, after 3 cycles of hangboard. I started the first cycle at -50, and got stuck at -20, couldn't get better. Teh next cycle I started at -45, and got to -12.5, again, getting stuck and not getting better over multiple workouts, And then finally, finally, in the 3rd round it felt like, gee, I can do this, I kept adding weight in every workout, and went into positives. So I only have 27.5 pounds of weight at my apartment for me to take weight off, so I started mostly on larger holds (especially since my fingers were really not used to the strain I was putting on them). Anyway, point on the dudes story is that as I'm increasing weight on the hold my finger hurt so bad! It's a bit of a strain on my winter fingers, but I'm talking skin issues here. Anyway, I just asked Nathan is he had any more weights he could take up here for me. I'm thinking I should get off the larger holds and bump the subtracted weight way up. I also figure if I'm rejiggering my workout I should try switching over to the intermediate workout. Shorter hang might put a little less strain on my fingers, even though there's more total volume to the workout. Still haven't gotten pinches, and while I asked Nathan to make them for me he apparently needs a CAD drawing before he'll do it. I'm not sure what's going to work best so I told him to just make some up and we'll see how they work. The skin always hurts like hell on big holds, that are larger than one pad. Get to small crimps ASAP! Nathan is brining me 40lbs of plates when he come up tonight. He thinks I should just toughen my hand up, but he obviously doesn't understand. It's stupid too because finger strength is his biggest issues in climbing by a long shot. I don't know why he won't do a hang board cycle. Mo is going to have to take off a shit ton of weight by doing the hang board thing one handed. Yeah, no kidding! Though Mo is strong sauce, and I suppose she could have some kind of a sling for the gimp arm, to take some weight off? Anyway, I'll second the skin hurts like hell on bigger holds. I was actually fine on pinches, even though there was a lot of skin contact, but deep finger pockets where you go past the knuckle, or just at the bend... holy cow, those hurt the skin. I hope to gawd mo does not try just one handed hanging. She needs to hang by stumpy, and then add whatever weight she needs to get to failure. It is unlikely that she'll have to take weight off while hanging with stumpy.
It won't be very precise having her take off weight using stumpy, but I was doing hangboarding before using an big elastic to take off weight (so it was variable). Getting to see your progress using weights is great, but she'd still get benefits taking off weight with stumpy.
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Rokjox
Apr 27, 2015, 2:38 PM
Post #104805 of 105309
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This post contains nudity or adult content. To protect the innocent we require that you register and turn off your Adult Content Filter to read it.
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carabiner96
Apr 27, 2015, 3:54 PM
Post #104806 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I've been getting moar serious about this hangboarding thing. Adding/subtracting weight, etc. While I'm still not feeling so trashed after a workout that I need 72 hours of rest, I'm definitely getting a better workout now. I think I mentioned that I've just been doing the beginner workout out of the Manderson book, at least until my fingers didn't feel so tweaky anymore. I was thinking of moving on to the intermediate workout later this week though now that I'm getting stuff sorted out. There's no benefit to sticking to the beginner workout instead of moving on to the intermediate workout, is there? Interested in this too- I'm assuming I'll just do beginner for the whole period, but what if it feels too easy? I guess I'd take off assisted weight, not sure if my goal should be increased time and reps or to get down to body weight- but what if I can't ever get down to body weight? Getting to body weight isn't really the main goal, unless you plan to one-arm jump-campus everything? If you go from hanging with 60lb subtraction at the start, and get to 30lb subtraction at the end, that's pretty darn awesome. In the next cycle you would maybe start at -50, and end at -20, and so on. Sure, eventually you'd get to body weight and even more, but it might take multiple cycles. The goal is to get better at holds that you can't hang onto, with body weight. I usually have one hold that I am starting at body weight or slightly more, and will be adding a lot of weight by the end (this is a warm-up hold) 3-4 holds that I am starting at 10-15 lb subtraction (so halfway through the cycle I would be moving into positive weight territory) and 2-3 holds that I have to subtract a LOT of weight, and might never get to body weight. For example the pinches on the Manderson hangboard are brutal!!! I have finally gotten to +2.5lb on medium pinch, after 3 cycles of hangboard. I started the first cycle at -50, and got stuck at -20, couldn't get better. Teh next cycle I started at -45, and got to -12.5, again, getting stuck and not getting better over multiple workouts, And then finally, finally, in the 3rd round it felt like, gee, I can do this, I kept adding weight in every workout, and went into positives. So I only have 27.5 pounds of weight at my apartment for me to take weight off, so I started mostly on larger holds (especially since my fingers were really not used to the strain I was putting on them). Anyway, point on the dudes story is that as I'm increasing weight on the hold my finger hurt so bad! It's a bit of a strain on my winter fingers, but I'm talking skin issues here. Anyway, I just asked Nathan is he had any more weights he could take up here for me. I'm thinking I should get off the larger holds and bump the subtracted weight way up. I also figure if I'm rejiggering my workout I should try switching over to the intermediate workout. Shorter hang might put a little less strain on my fingers, even though there's more total volume to the workout. Still haven't gotten pinches, and while I asked Nathan to make them for me he apparently needs a CAD drawing before he'll do it. I'm not sure what's going to work best so I told him to just make some up and we'll see how they work. The skin always hurts like hell on big holds, that are larger than one pad. Get to small crimps ASAP! Nathan is brining me 40lbs of plates when he come up tonight. He thinks I should just toughen my hand up, but he obviously doesn't understand. It's stupid too because finger strength is his biggest issues in climbing by a long shot. I don't know why he won't do a hang board cycle. Mo is going to have to take off a shit ton of weight by doing the hang board thing one handed. Yeah, no kidding! Though Mo is strong sauce, and I suppose she could have some kind of a sling for the gimp arm, to take some weight off? Anyway, I'll second the skin hurts like hell on bigger holds. I was actually fine on pinches, even though there was a lot of skin contact, but deep finger pockets where you go past the knuckle, or just at the bend... holy cow, those hurt the skin. I hope to gawd mo does not try just one handed hanging. She needs to hang by stumpy, and then add whatever weight she needs to get to failure. It is unlikely that she'll have to take weight off while hanging with stumpy.
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carabiner96
Apr 27, 2015, 4:01 PM
Post #104807 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
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In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop.
This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year.
oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl.
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carabiner96
Apr 27, 2015, 4:11 PM
Post #104808 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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Oh! Going to Rifle for the first time this weekend, I knowits more known for the 12+ range and while I'm fun hopping on 12a for fun, any recommendation on the 10c-11b range that I could have a shot at leading? trying to lead more at sporty areas.
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cracklover
Apr 27, 2015, 6:10 PM
Post #104809 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl.
Cool - what's the proj?
I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl.
GO
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carabiner96
Apr 27, 2015, 7:07 PM
Post #104810 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl. Cool - what's the proj? I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl. GO
http://mountainproject.com/v/menses/105748993
Real rock is always good. My spring pattern is 3 nights in the gym and 1-2 weekend days on rock.
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cracklover
Apr 28, 2015, 1:17 PM
Post #104811 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl. Cool - what's the proj? I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl. GO . Menses: http://mountainproject.com/v/menses/105748993 Real rock is always good. My spring pattern is 3 nights in the gym and 1-2 weekend days on rock.
Good route! I found it very technical. Hopefully this means it should succumb nicely to projecting. One thing though - Menses wall gets a *lot* of sun. Maybe best to schedule as much time there on weekends now, and hope for cool weather. Very soon (if not already) the conditions will become intolerable for the remainder of the summer.
In other words - send it! Send it nau!
GO
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granite_grrl
Apr 28, 2015, 1:54 PM
Post #104812 of 105309
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More hangboard tawk.
Two finger pockets will be the death of me. Big pockets hurt my skin too much and when I reduce the size they start to feel tweaky enough that I didn't finish the set.
I think my new game plan is to keep weight taken off and do two sets instead of one with them. It won't be super effective in terms of building up finger strength with them, but I think I need a lot more conditioning on them right now.
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carabiner96
Apr 28, 2015, 4:11 PM
Post #104813 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: More hangboard tawk. Two finger pockets will be the death of me. Big pockets hurt my skin too much and when I reduce the size they start to feel tweaky enough that I didn't finish the set. I think my new game plan is to keep weight taken off and do two sets instead of one with them. It won't be super effective in terms of building up finger strength with them, but I think I need a lot more conditioning on them right now.
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carabiner96
Apr 28, 2015, 4:21 PM
Post #104814 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl. Cool - what's the proj? I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl. GO . Menses: http://mountainproject.com/v/menses/105748993 Real rock is always good. My spring pattern is 3 nights in the gym and 1-2 weekend days on rock. Good route! I found it very technical. Hopefully this means it should succumb nicely to projecting. One thing though - Menses wall gets a *lot* of sun. Maybe best to schedule as much time there on weekends now, and hope for cool weather. Very soon (if not already) the conditions will become intolerable for the remainder of the summer. In other words - send it! Send it nau! GO
My other issue is that my friends either climb at my level and we struggle getting a rope up, or at a stupid high level that I feel bad asking them to hang my draws for me. I buy lots of beer for these mutants.
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snoopy138
Apr 28, 2015, 6:42 PM
Post #104815 of 105309
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Posts: 28992
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carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl. Cool - what's the proj? I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl. GO . Menses: http://mountainproject.com/v/menses/105748993 Real rock is always good. My spring pattern is 3 nights in the gym and 1-2 weekend days on rock. Good route! I found it very technical. Hopefully this means it should succumb nicely to projecting. One thing though - Menses wall gets a *lot* of sun. Maybe best to schedule as much time there on weekends now, and hope for cool weather. Very soon (if not already) the conditions will become intolerable for the remainder of the summer. In other words - send it! Send it nau! GO Realistically, it'll go in the fall. I can give it several burns a day because it's not super pumpy, so I reckon one more day of sussing out the links then a day of sending. I'd like to find local project in the 11 range, maybe a shady part of the flatties? Still need to poke around. My other issue is that my friends either climb at my level and we struggle getting a rope up, or at a stupid high level that I feel bad asking them to hang my draws for me. I buy lots of beer for these mutants.
find a project at a wall that has harder rowtz on it as well. then convince them that your proj is a gud warm-up.
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granite_grrl
Apr 28, 2015, 6:49 PM
Post #104816 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: In actual climbing news- I wanted to pick out a project for the season and I think I found it- rehearsed all the moves this weekend and was able to do them all, now just need to link them. Unfortunately it's all the way down in shelf so I still need to find a local project, but this one is so damn fun. Would have given it a red point (ok, let's be honest- I'd make Neckbeard hang my draws) but we woke up yesterday morning to a raging hail/thunder/rain storm and booked it the hell to iHop. This was actually my first weekend quality time with Timpson since creeks giving- he says hi to all of yall he's met and hopes to meet more of you after hearing stories. We're already menu planning for this year. oh, and beanie is a fantastic crag dog. That is awl. Cool - what's the proj? I climbed some climbs this weekend. They were not impressive. But they were actual rock, so there's that. That is awl. GO . Menses: http://mountainproject.com/v/menses/105748993 Real rock is always good. My spring pattern is 3 nights in the gym and 1-2 weekend days on rock. Good route! I found it very technical. Hopefully this means it should succumb nicely to projecting. One thing though - Menses wall gets a *lot* of sun. Maybe best to schedule as much time there on weekends now, and hope for cool weather. Very soon (if not already) the conditions will become intolerable for the remainder of the summer. In other words - send it! Send it nau! GO Realistically, it'll go in the fall. I can give it several burns a day because it's not super pumpy, so I reckon one more day of sussing out the links then a day of sending. I'd like to find local project in the 11 range, maybe a shady part of the flatties? Still need to poke around. My other issue is that my friends either climb at my level and we struggle getting a rope up, or at a stupid high level that I feel bad asking them to hang my draws for me. I buy lots of beer for these mutants. find a project at a wall that has harder rowtz on it as well. then convince them that your proj is a gud warm-up.
Gud poynte.
Or just project the warmup at the crag, just try not to make it too popular of a hardman's crag.
I need to get inspired and find a project or two. I haven't been doing very well with inspiration lately. I can see what a difference 5-10lbs makes when yore hangbording, but the rest of the time I'm having a hard time caring. It's hard to lose weight for the sake of losing weight without goals an ambitions.
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lena_chita
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Apr 28, 2015, 8:36 PM
Post #104817 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: More hangboard tawk. Two finger pockets will be the death of me. Big pockets hurt my skin too much and when I reduce the size they start to feel tweaky enough that I didn't finish the set. I think my new game plan is to keep weight taken off and do two sets instead of one with them. It won't be super effective in terms of building up finger strength with them, but I think I need a lot more conditioning on them right now.
Yeah, finding good pockets that work for you is really tricky.
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Rokjox
May 1, 2015, 5:24 PM
Post #104818 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 71
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My apologies to the board;
I hadn't realized i'd bumped into the locker room of the local gym. I didn't mean to harsh anyones high. Its great being young.
You do that stuff to learn to climb? I think its nice they are teaching you Latin, too.
I gotta rest day today, I went training last night and hurt my liver a little.
Y'all go and have fun now.
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granite_grrl
May 1, 2015, 7:31 PM
Post #104819 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: More hangboard tawk. Two finger pockets will be the death of me. Big pockets hurt my skin too much and when I reduce the size they start to feel tweaky enough that I didn't finish the set. I think my new game plan is to keep weight taken off and do two sets instead of one with them. It won't be super effective in terms of building up finger strength with them, but I think I need a lot more conditioning on them right now. Yeah, finding good pockets that work for you is really tricky.
So I did two set of two finger pockets last night. First with 20lbs off, second near the end with 25lbs off. I still get a lot of tweakiness with only 20lbs off.
In other news, I have decided that I need to lose my winter blort and have started counting calories again. I'm sure I will finish the hangboarding before I see any significant weight loss unfortunately.
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granite_grrl
May 1, 2015, 7:33 PM
Post #104820 of 105309
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I also ran over 11km last night! 1.75km to the running store, 8ish on the actual run, then 1.5km back home. I'm almost to the point where my lungs don't totally hate me anymore.
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carabiner96
May 1, 2015, 8:48 PM
Post #104821 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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granite_grrl wrote: I also ran over 11km last night! 1.75km to the running store, 8ish on the actual run, then 1.5km back home. I'm almost to the point where my lungs don't totally hate me anymore.
Rifle fell through, weather looks like shit. Tonight was supposed to be first après work Eldo evening but it's pretty much pouring out (as pouring as it relatively gets here).
I can see the main walls at Eldorado from my desk- except now, because it's so socked in.
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camhead
May 2, 2015, 10:45 AM
Post #104822 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I also ran over 11km last night! 1.75km to the running store, 8ish on the actual run, then 1.5km back home. I'm almost to the point where my lungs don't totally hate me anymore. Running. Yuck. I did sign up for my first 10k but you're supposed to drink beer and hit slip and slides during it. Rifle fell through, weather looks like shit. Tonight was supposed to be first après work Eldo evening but it's pretty much pouring out (as pouring as it relatively gets here). I can see the main walls at Eldorado from my desk- except now, because it's so socked in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rX7wtNOkuHo
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cracklover
May 4, 2015, 1:19 PM
Post #104823 of 105309
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I did some running this weekend. I ran back to the car to get my lunch that I'd forgotten.
Cue Nelson "Ha Ha!"
From down around climb 300, to the visitor center lot at the Gunks, was a nice little workout.
Oh, I did some climbs too. Nothing terribly exciting, but getting the feel for Gunks rock again.
GO
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granite_grrl
May 4, 2015, 2:32 PM
Post #104824 of 105309
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I like the Gunks. When we head on our road trip it’s going to be hard to justify spending much time out there though, it’s getting expensive.
Weak-end report.
I pulled some invasive plants for the local access group, then went climbing for the afternoon with some friends who were there too. All three of the guys are daddys and don’t get out as much as they used to now. Suckers!
I went for a run that night too, getting closer to where I used to be with my running now! 6km in just over 33 minutes. That’s a decent pace, but I was working way harder than I should have been to maintain it.
Then a bit of mtn biking in the morning on Sunday, and climbing in the afternoon. I had some decent strength on the one hard route I got one, but on my second attempt I failed all over the crux. I think my all day endurance is crap right now, but it’s hard to say when you get to the cliff and your body is already over worked and tired. I’ve got that full body soreness going on right now.
Good weakend!
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dr_feelgood
May 4, 2015, 4:00 PM
Post #104825 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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Weakend report. Went to a funeral. Now playing catchup, so as not to seriously delay my creke trip.
[cue writing music]
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