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eyecannon
Apr 26, 2005, 6:26 PM
Post #51 of 62
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Registered: May 4, 2004
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In reply to: A clueless gumbie does a cam stack without a hint of the right way to do it. He has a partner who declares it fine despite the fact that it is obviously clipped wrong. Then the clueless internet cheering squad kicks in. In reply to: Good job on the stack. (snip) but I'd still fall on that all day from the look of it... The stack is clipped wrong, as you noted. The hexes are not oriented in the best manner in relation to each other, as you also noted. Then there is the reality that you cannot see any of the places where the hexes touch the rock. (which you conveniently ignore.) =-=-=-=- This is the quality of advice that you get from thirty year climbers on this site? Guess so.
I do have a clue how to stack hexes and nuts, however, this is the configuration that worked best for the situation I was in. Both cables lined up perfectly, and the entire unit worked as one giant chock. I am aware of keeper slings, but in this instance, it was unneccessary IMO.
You'd think that someone who bitches and moans so much about the internet would probably opt to stay off it :roll:
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curt
Apr 26, 2005, 7:08 PM
Post #52 of 62
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Without getting caught up in the ongoing pissing contest, I will offer the following opinions.
1) I can't tell from the OP's pictures whether that hex-stack is any good or not; I'm not sure that I would offer such an opinion based on pictures alone. I like to be able to fiddle with the gear myself and see how the feel of the placement is--from different directional tugs, before I get an idea of how sound a placement is.
2) It is certainly possible to create "bomber" placements by stacking hexes or stacking nuts.
3) As others have pointed out, the placement would be better if the rope had only been clipped through the higher piece.
Curt
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jt512
Apr 26, 2005, 8:24 PM
Post #53 of 62
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: 1) I can't tell from the OP's pictures whether that hex-stack is any good or not; I'm not sure that I would offer such an opinion based on pictures alone. I like to be able to fiddle with the gear myself and see how the feel of the placement is--from different directional tugs, before I get an idea of how sound a placement is.
Exactly, that's why I've stayed out of the argument.
-Jay
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ambler
Apr 26, 2005, 9:06 PM
Post #54 of 62
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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In reply to: 2) It is certainly possible to create "bomber" placements by stacking hexes or stacking nuts. |
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thegreytradster
Apr 27, 2005, 2:04 AM
Post #55 of 62
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: 2) It is certainly possible to create "bomber" placements by stacking hexes or stacking nuts. The truly grizzled recall times we stacked bong-bongs. Now those could be bomber...trouble was, your rack vanished double fast. And then there was that trick of camming bongs with a sling or a cable.
A bong with a sling thru the lightening holes made a great 4-6 " nut depending on orentation.
This weekend I was out at Quail Springs. The Princess made us old guys do both Baskerville Cracks again. :( I have done the Walaby Crack several times, but not recently. I wandered around the corner to look and refresh my memory and can't for the life of me figure out why a stack was required anywhere. :?
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curt
Apr 27, 2005, 2:15 AM
Post #56 of 62
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[aside]The Left Baskerville Crack sucks.[/aside]
Curt
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ambler
Apr 27, 2005, 2:32 AM
Post #57 of 62
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 2) It is certainly possible to create "bomber" placements by stacking hexes or stacking nuts. The truly grizzled recall times we stacked bong-bongs. Now those could be bomber...trouble was, your rack vanished double fast. And then there was that trick of camming bongs with a sling or a cable. A bong with a sling thru the lightening holes made a great 4-6 " nut depending on orentation. |
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curt
Apr 27, 2005, 2:35 AM
Post #58 of 62
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 2) It is certainly possible to create "bomber" placements by stacking hexes or stacking nuts. The truly grizzled recall times we stacked bong-bongs. Now those could be bomber...trouble was, your rack vanished double fast. And then there was that trick of camming bongs with a sling or a cable. A bong with a sling thru the lightening holes made a great 4-6 " nut depending on orentation. It worked even better if you ground the nose at an angle, to make it more nut-shaped. Or even ground a whole inch off, so your bong fit that hard-to-find 5" size. I did this with several of mine, and used them endwise surprisingly often.
You guys win. I've never placed a bong.
Curt
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thegreytradster
Apr 27, 2005, 3:31 AM
Post #59 of 62
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In reply to: [aside]The Left Baskerville Crack sucks.[/aside] Curt
Yep, lots of thrutching and heavy breathing.
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jeremy11
May 9, 2005, 11:55 PM
Post #60 of 62
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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so bong-bongs make good big nuts? cause I would like to lead more offwidths but not if it involves lots of $ for big cams. why dont they just make really big hexes like up to 6 inches?
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tradklime
May 10, 2005, 5:08 PM
Post #61 of 62
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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In reply to: why dont they just make really big hexes like up to 6 inches?
They used to, in a way. They were called tube chocks.
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thegreytradster
May 11, 2005, 2:48 AM
Post #62 of 62
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
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Just don't release the spring on the really big one in a confined space in an uncontrolled manner.
I'ts like discharging a bazooka. Someone could get hurt.
:lol:
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