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bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week.
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bvb


May 18, 2005, 4:08 AM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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nichols chopped morman hollow about 12 years ago.

back to his old tricks.

if he pulled this crap out west, he'd be in a shallow grave. no joke.

you new england climbers have been letting him terrorize you for far too long. break his fucking fingers, all of them. disable him. put him to bed.

ever notice how he's never been west of the missisippi? he's an ass, but he ain't no fool.


powder_dreams


May 18, 2005, 2:37 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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you new england climbers have been letting him terrorize you for far too long. break his fucking fingers, all of them. disable him. put him to bed.

What a bunch of tough guys. Yawn.


slobmonster


May 18, 2005, 2:43 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Seems like chopping is the cool thing to do these days. Maybe Ken is taking an apprentice?


kyote321


May 18, 2005, 2:51 PM
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stand up to a bully, it is the only way.

get small video cameras to catch him the act.

post his photo and video online so people can look out for him.

let his co-workers know waht sort of person they are working with.

put up wanted posters in climbing shops

he is is obviously a menace and needs to be stopped

this is bad press for climbers everywhere


sarcat


May 18, 2005, 3:14 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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- - hijack - -

Just out of curiosity, why is the place called Mormon Hollow?

- - end hijack - -

If it was the dude, I agree with retribution. Steal his lunch money to re-purchase the needed hardware.


healyje


May 18, 2005, 5:08 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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So far the majority of this thread is filled with a lot clueless posturing from a bunch of folks that don't know Ken, don't know the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars.

Ken is a difficult personality no doubt; but he doesn't do anything without some rationale and he wouldn't be revisiting Mormon unless someone did something in CT to really piss him off. Before you do anything I would suggest you attempt to find out what it was that set him off if it was in fact Ken. Because if you don't address the reason he has been set off again you will simply descend into a spiral that is more his homeland than yours.

The local ethics in CT were and are no bolting whether you happen to like it or not. And if the reason for all this is that someone has resumed bolting in CT this is where all you bolting advocates who love to chant "local ethics" should be standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the side of no bolting unless your position is actually just a convenient hypocrisy.

P.S. Anyone wanting to bodily scrap with Ken better be a burly m.f. as completely immune to pain as he is...


teamkonarider


May 18, 2005, 6:03 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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I think it is wrong for Ken to be going around NE and chopping, However smashing the holds over at east peak was wrong. The only way to avoid Ken is to keep places quiet. I have my own t little sport crag in CT and its been up for about a year and a half now. Sure anyone can look at a topo and find it, luckly a pretty nice guy with a 10 gauge questions anyone that isnt on the guest list.
Having someone monitor this area once the bolts have been replaced may help the situation. If it was me I would probally go and beat on Dol Guldor until it was a 5.14, but neithier chopping nor smashing will help. If someone gets a picture of him at the crag and the crag is privately owned you can sue and criminally prosocute him.
If hes randomly chopping I think he should head out west, he'll learn quick not to chop. To me he's the definition of hypocrit, for those of you who may not know Ken has put up sport routes but for some reason he went nuts and suddenly despised bolts and began chopping. The war will go on until the people doing the bolting get smarter and learn to keep things quiet.

TRADitionally yours,

Sean


elron


May 18, 2005, 6:09 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So far the majority of this thread is filled with a lot clueless posturing from a bunch of folks that don't know Ken, don't know the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars.

The local ethics in CT were and are no bolting whether you happen to like it or not.

healyj... do you know Ken, the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars? I'm not trying to be a wiseass, just want to hear the whole story. I've been climbing in MA for a while and have heard countless stories of Ken's exploits, including at crags where I climb. It would be great to hear or read the real story of someone who is so (in)famous in the area.

Also, once again not trying to be a wiseass, but does a single "local ethic" work for all of CT? Thats a pretty big locale. Is this an ethic that was imposed by Ken? Did it come about as a result of his chopping? If someone discovers a new crag (maybe unlikely) that they decide to develop as a sport crag, doesn't that person get to define the local ethic?

Kevin


washufinku


May 18, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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I think it should be noted that Mormon Hollow isn't even really a sport crag. There were only about 3 (4-5?) sport routes there, and about 10-15 top anchors. Most of those top anchors belong to top rope routes, some that can be trad lead, some that would pretty run-out. Other than that, I've tradded two nice cracks at that crag.

Now its back to nothing.... :(


josephgdawson


May 18, 2005, 7:15 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Ken sounds like a loose canon and an asshole. I like these apoligists who have come on the site to support their buddy Ken. I really cannot see the point of chopping bolts if there is nowhere to put pro.

Some idiot suggested that there there may be a reason Saint Ken chopped all of the bolts. So fucking what if he had a reason, having a reason for doing somethign does not make it justifiable. If Ken is such an honorable man, he should operate at daylight instead of chopping bolts under the veil of darkness when no one is around. One of you Northereasters out there otta kick his ass.


bvb


May 18, 2005, 7:30 PM
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In reply to:
P.S. Anyone wanting to bodily scrap with Ken better be a burly m.f. as completely immune to pain as he is...
i beleive if he were to appear at rifle with the intent to chop bolts, there would be no shortage of "burly m.f.'s" ready and willing to protect their home turf.


healyje


May 18, 2005, 7:59 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
So far the majority of this thread is filled with a lot clueless posturing from a bunch of folks that don't know Ken, don't know the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars.

The local ethics in CT were and are no bolting whether you happen to like it or not.

healyj... do you know Ken, the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars? I'm not trying to be a wiseass, just want to hear the whole story. I've been climbing in MA for a while and have heard countless stories of Ken's exploits, including at crags where I climb. It would be great to hear or read the real story of someone who is so (in)famous in the area.

I lived in S. NH for a while in the mid 80s and climbed with Ken and his crew; in fact I basically shanghai'd his main protoge, Marco, when I moved to Oregon - so yes, I know the region and know Ken.

In reply to:
Also, once again not trying to be a wiseass, but does a single "local ethic" work for all of CT? Thats a pretty big locale. Is this an ethic that was imposed by Ken? Did it come about as a result of his chopping? If someone discovers a new crag (maybe unlikely) that they decide to develop as a sport crag, doesn't that person get to define the local ethic?

Kevin

No, it didn't come as a result of his chopping, it came from years of Ken and his crew putting up an ocean of hard routes year in, year out and from writing the book on CT climbing. And he's climbed and put up FA's on all that "pretty big locale". Again, one would hope the cry of "local ethics" isn't a convenient hypocrisy for simply bolting whenever and wherever folks want and that one wouldn't try to talk that line out of one side of their mouth while then trying to redefine "locale" out the other side...


healyje


May 18, 2005, 8:02 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
P.S. Anyone wanting to bodily scrap with Ken better be a burly m.f. as completely immune to pain as he is...
i beleive if he were to appear at rifle with the intent to chop bolts, there would be no shortage of "burly m.f.'s" ready and willing to protect their home turf.

Having been to Rifle in the late 70's before Rifle became "Rifle" I can pretty well state even Ken wouldn't have a big problem bolting the majority of that stuff. And good to hear you are well garrisoned as you would need to be...


healyje


May 18, 2005, 8:05 PM
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In reply to:
Ken sounds like a loose canon and an asshole. I like these apoligists who have come on the site to support their buddy Ken. I really cannot see the point of chopping bolts if there is nowhere to put pro.

Some idiot suggested that there there may be a reason Saint Ken chopped all of the bolts. So f---ing what if he had a reason, having a reason for doing somethign does not make it justifiable. If Ken is such an honorable man, he should operate at daylight instead of chopping bolts under the veil of darkness when no one is around. One of you Northereasters out there otta kick his ass.

As I said, cluess, posturing, and posing to a word...

Ken is, unfortunately, a devout student of the "Newton's Third Law of Motion" school of ethics enforcement and largely because poaching bolters who didn't and apparently don't respect local CT ethics keep pushing him until he feels he has no other options. Don't bolt in CT and you'll have no problem with Ken.


caughtinside


May 18, 2005, 8:19 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Don't bolt in CT and you'll have no problem with Ken.
Sounds like a simple solution to me! :lol:

Still, one must wonder why the chopping took place in the middle of the night. Actually, I already know why.


killclimbz


May 18, 2005, 8:21 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Ken has also in the name of ethics removed fixed gear and bolts from routes that were put up in traditional style. Just because he had a disagreement with the local "Mountain, Alpine" whatever club.
The guys does not own all the crags in the state of CT and he is an ass. Whether he did this or not is still up for debate, but siding with Nichols is stoopid and shows just as much of a lack of respect for climbing as the "poaching" bolters. The man has no ethics just his own sense of self importance.


boardline22


May 18, 2005, 8:23 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Why does Ken get to run everything? Why should he care 9if there is no place to place trad? And still, why does he do it at night if
1. He has a high tolerance of pain
and
2. he has a right to?

I still say shove a cam up his ass


fluxus


May 18, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So far the majority of this thread is filled with a lot clueless posturing from a bunch of folks that don't know Ken, don't know the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars.

Ken is a difficult personality no doubt; but he doesn't do anything without some rationale and he wouldn't be revisiting Mormon unless someone did something in CT to really piss him off. Before you do anything I would suggest you attempt to find out what it was that set him off if it was in fact Ken. Because if you don't address the reason he has been set off again you will simply descend into a spiral that is more his homeland than yours.

The local ethics in CT were and are no bolting whether you happen to like it or not. And if the reason for all this is that someone has resumed bolting in CT this is where all you bolting advocates who love to chant "local ethics" should be standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the side of no bolting unless your position is actually just a convenient hypocrisy.

As a main participant in the "bolting wars" of the 1980's I find most of the quoted post and this thread historically incorrect and off the mark. While the common articulation of "ethics"(sic.) in the NE is often "no blots" the fact of the matter is that even in the 60s and 70s local elite climbers from the Gunks to North Conway did place bolts where they saw fit, fixed gear, chipped holds, chopped down trees, scarred cracks beyond recognition with repeated piton placements, left tons of trash at the crag, built trails in remote areas, made a lot of noise etc, etc, etc and really held no consistent "ethical" beliefs about the environment and climbing. Of course none of them would fess up to this, but the history which I mention is written in the crags of the region, (and the entire country for that matter). Take note every time you finger lock in an old pin scar, pass a rusting 1/4" bolt or see the old stumps at the base of classic climbs.

Let there be no mistake about it placing and chopping bolts in the north east never has, nor does it now, have to do with anything definable as "ethics", its exclusively about egos and who gets to have the final word about how climbing will be done in the area. This is a mojor reason I left that climbing back water in 1991 to move to Salt Lake City, a place were all forms of climbing manage to co-exist quite nicely thank you very much.

From personal contact with the man years ago I feel completely justified in stating the opinion that unless he's had thearpy and medication Ken is a sociopath , who may be able to justify his actions in his own mind but is nothing more than a small time punk who never amounted to anything as a climber; and whose legacy will be defined by the collective sigh of relief breathed by the climbing comunity upon the news of his passing.


mburke225


May 18, 2005, 8:37 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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Healyje:
Assuming it was Ken:
Your arguement doesn't make any sense. The basic assumption is Nichol's put up some hard routes in Connecticut, therefore he gets immunity when he chops in Mass. That's plain stupid. Your justifacation is that something must have been done in Ct to piss him off. That is also plain stupid. Who cares what pisses a maniac off? If I'm mad at my neighbor I can't cut a hole in your house. The act is unjustafiable and you only make yourself look bad by coming to his defence.


killclimbz


May 18, 2005, 8:38 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Ken is a sociopath , who may be able to justify his actions in his own mind but is nothing more than a small time punk who never amounted to anything as a climber; and whose legacy will be defined by the collective sigh of relief breathed by the climbing comunity upon the news of his passing.

ROTFL!!! :lol:


kiwi_climber


May 18, 2005, 8:42 PM
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test


healyje


May 18, 2005, 9:04 PM
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Re: bolts at Mormon Hollow - chopped this past week. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
So far the majority of this thread is filled with a lot clueless posturing from a bunch of folks that don't know Ken, don't know the region, or the history and genesis of the NE bolt wars.

Ken is a difficult personality no doubt; but he doesn't do anything without some rationale and he wouldn't be revisiting Mormon unless someone did something in CT to really piss him off. Before you do anything I would suggest you attempt to find out what it was that set him off if it was in fact Ken. Because if you don't address the reason he has been set off again you will simply descend into a spiral that is more his homeland than yours.

The local ethics in CT were and are no bolting whether you happen to like it or not. And if the reason for all this is that someone has resumed bolting in CT this is where all you bolting advocates who love to chant "local ethics" should be standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the side of no bolting unless your position is actually just a convenient hypocrisy.

As a main participant in the "bolting wars" of the 1980's I find most of the quoted post and this thread historically incorrect and off the mark. While the common articulation of "ethics"(sic.) in the NE is often "no blots" the fact of the matter is that even in the 60s and 70s local elite climbers from the Gunks to North Conway did place bolts where they saw fit, fixed gear, chipped holds, chopped down trees, scarred cracks beyond recognition with repeated piton placements, left tons of trash at the crag, built trails in remote areas, made a lot of noise etc, etc, etc and really held no consistent "ethical" beliefs about the environment and climbing. Of course none of them would fess up to this, but the history which I mention is written in the crags of the region, (and the entire country for that matter). Take note every time you finger lock in an old pin scar, pass a rusting 1/4" bolt or see the old stumps at the base of classic climbs.

Let there be no mistake about it placing and chopping bolts in the north east never has, nor does it now, have to do with anything definable as "ethics", its exclusively about egos and who gets to have the final word about how climbing will be done in the area.

At no time have I described CT local ethics as New England ethics at large. Again, let's agree not to redefine the scope or scale of "local ethics" in a CT discussion. I also climbed in all those areas in NE you speak of in the 70s and 80s and there was and are all sorts of ridiculous behaviors by all manner of climbers both then and now but they are the uncommon exceptions, not the rule. And in this discussion, the 60's aren't germaine to the conversations as that was a different world long before "clean climbing" and LNT took hold in most scenes around the country. And the "there are no ethics - only egos" argument, while born of some shreds of truth relative to their implementation and maintanence is tired and untrue. There was then and are now both "prevailing" and local ethics - even within trad, sport, and bouldering scenes. Most group-oriented climbers really couldn't sort each other out and self-organize without them.

In reply to:
This is a mojor reason I left that climbing back water in 1991 to move to Salt Lake City, a place were all forms of climbing manage to co-exist quite nicely thank you very much.

Hey, I don't blame you if you couldn't handle the scene, it was pretty charged...

In reply to:
From personal contact with the man years ago I feel completely justified in stating the opinion that unless he's had thearpy and medication Ken is a sociopath , who may be able to justify his actions in his own mind but is nothing more than a small time punk who never amounted to anything as a climber; and whose legacy will be defined by the collective sigh of relief breathed by the climbing comunity upon the news of his passing.

I never said Ken wasn't a sociopath; but it would be a grave mistake to confuse his personality and his climbing abilities. I've put up no shortage of my own FAs over the years and having climbed some of Ken's I can testify to their stoutness, technical merit, and the creativity they represent. His climbing legacy in stone speaks for itself and for you to describe Ken as someone "who never amounted to anything as a climber" well, to be quite frank, you're talking out your ass and/or incredibly insecure about your own "legacy".

Ken isn't without problems, some of them possibly serious from a sociological perspective, but then that's all the more reason not to provoke him and in this case someone surely has - again, I would suggest you find out who and ask them what they bolted in CT...


healyje


May 18, 2005, 9:18 PM
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In reply to:
Healyje:
Assuming it was Ken:
Your arguement doesn't make any sense. The basic assumption is Nichol's put up some hard routes in Connecticut, therefore he gets immunity when he chops in Mass. That's plain stupid. Your justifacation is that something must have been done in Ct to piss him off. That is also plain stupid. Who cares what pisses a maniac off? If I'm mad at my neighbor I can't cut a hole in your house. The act is unjustafiable and you only make yourself look bad by coming to his defence.

Go piss on a rabid dog and if you get bitten and die as a result well, that's pretty stupid of you. I didn't say Ken was justified in his actions. I said he doesn't operate devoid of rationale. Again, don't bolt in CT and you won't have these problems. He's not complicated - if he came to MA to chop then he's pretty damn sure it was one of you from MA that did the CT bolting - find out who, what, and why...

And again to the history and genesis of all this, Ken and company went way out of their way for years to endlessly let everyone with half a brain in NE know bolting in CT wasn't acceptable - the bolt wars started after many repeated bolting incidents and in reality the ones doing the bolting in CT created this monster you all rail against. Again, what does it take to get the message across? At what point does someone someone have a right to take a stand and say "not another bolt"? Well, off-hand I'd say someone has found that point once again. Don't bolt in CT - it's not that difficult.

And do get a grip folks - this isn't all about Ken - it's also about some clueless f#ck with a drill.


olderic


May 18, 2005, 9:19 PM
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I did FA's with Ken on the other end (usually he was on the sharp end) of the rope 30 years ago. I don't condone his actions but you are wrong if you disparage his abilities as a climber - he was one of the best pure trad climbers there was "back in the day". Again I am not saying I condone his actions over the past 15 years but all the chest beating and postering that is going on here while being ignorant of all that has proceeded it is pretty pointless. Everyone is going to have their own opinion of what constitutes a neccessary bolt and there is no doubt that the trend over the recent years has been to try and rationalize convenience bolts as neccessary.


mburke225


May 18, 2005, 9:41 PM
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[quote="healyje"]

Go piss on a rabid dog and if you get bitten and die as a result well, that's pretty stupid of you. I didn't say Ken was justified in his actions. I said he doesn't operate devoid of rationale. Again, don't bolt in CT and you won't have these problems. He's not complicated - if he came to MA to chop then he's pretty damn sure it was one of you from MA that did the CT bolting - find out who, what, and why...


Are you drunk? Why would I piss on a rabid dog? And I'm from Ct, no new bolting here. Especially at the established areas that Ken may have climbed back in the day.



And do get a grip folks - this isn't all about Ken - it's also about some clueless f#ck with a drill.[/quote

No seriously. Are you drunk? This is the poorest line of reasoning I've ever heard. It's not societies fault, it's Ken's.

I'm starting to wonder how you know Ken's exact motives so well. Hmm?

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