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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:09 PM
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I have climbed in yosemite many times and have never made the effort to get all the way out to snake dike...I probably wouldn't have considered it until I set up a trip for me and my non climber girlfriend....I know it is very easy..like 5.7...but how easy is easy.
She has never climbed. So my question is...can a non-climber get through this with help from an experienced climber. I think absolutely, but I would like to hear some opinions on whether or not it is likely for her to be able to get through it without having me literaly haul her through sections...
I just want to know if it is as easy as I think it is. thanks.
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robdotcalm
Jul 20, 2005, 5:17 PM
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Common sense would indicate that if you want to maintain your boy/girlfrend relationship intact, you start on something shorter, easier, and with less of an approach.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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areuinclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:21 PM
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physically i think she could do it. the only problem i would see is the traverse on P1. its the hardest section of the climb. the rest is cruiser all the way......easy. it is a somewhat exposed climb and the endless slabs after the 8th pitch might give her a rise if she isnt comfortable with exposure and such. the approach is a bitch and a half so make sure she is up for it.
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tahquitztwo
Jul 20, 2005, 5:23 PM
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I agree with Robdotcom's comment. I am an older woman climber and I've done several routes in Yosemite with friends (no big walls) and I have known several folks who climb well, but for whatever reason, ended up having an epic doing Snake Dike. It is a long approach, very exposed and not exactly what I would suggest for someone who has never climbed before. :shock:
There are several other fun routes in the valley that are considered as "easy" as Snake Dike and certainly much better on the approach and route itself for a beginning climber.
Good luck and climb safe. 8^)
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renohandjams
Jul 20, 2005, 5:25 PM
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Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs.
I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout.
Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout?
My 2 cents
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j_ung
Jul 20, 2005, 5:25 PM
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I'm with .calm; set your sights lower... like toproping.
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shakylegs
Jul 20, 2005, 5:26 PM
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I say go for it. I mean, how hard can a multi-pitch 5.7 with a long approach be for a first-time climber?
The fact that you've never been on it yourself just adds a bit of piquant.
I'm dying to read the TR afterward.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 5:31 PM
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In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents
hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4.
70 feet is a standard runout on that climb. Meaning, you will have multiple 70 foot runouts. If you're not mentally stron enough with your leading, you will freeze up, because the exposure seems worse than it actually is. I was totally comfortable leading on Snake Dike, and would have been fine with leading any of the pitches on it. Matt (areuinclimber) won the toss for the super long runout. Lucky bastard.
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kalcario
Jul 20, 2005, 5:38 PM
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*She has never climbed. So my question is...can a non-climber get through this with help from an experienced climber. I think absolutely, but I would like to hear some opinions on whether or not it is likely for her to be able to get through it without having me literaly haul her through sections...*
I'd say yes, but she'd better be a damn strong hiker, it's 16 miles with 8000' of altitude change...you could break it up by bivvying in Little Yo Valley though.
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rastafari
Jul 20, 2005, 5:40 PM
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I say don't take her....people who are not used to climb such heights can freeze really fast. U don't want that to happen
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carbo
Jul 20, 2005, 5:43 PM
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I would choose something else for a first time climber. Maybe something like Cathedral peak SE buttress. Shorter approach, 5 pitches and with less exposure.
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: Common sense would indicate that if you want to maintain your boy/girlfrend relationship intact, you start on something shorter, easier, and with less of an approach. Cheers, Rob.calm
haha,...smart man
who seems to have some experince with relationships. I actually appreciate this. ha!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:51 PM
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guys..my competency on the climb is not an issue...I was going to free solo it with my buddy last time I was there. She will not be doing any runouts and the approach will be no problem for her....
I have been told by friends..who don't have phone or email unfortunately...that there are two 5.7 moves and the rest is hiking...
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: I agree with Robdotcom's comment. I am an older woman climber and I've done several routes in Yosemite with friends (no big walls) and I have known several folks who climb well, but for whatever reason, ended up having an epic doing Snake Dike. It is a long approach, very exposed and not exactly what I would suggest for someone who has never climbed before. :shock: There are several other fun routes in the valley that are considered as "easy" as Snake Dike and certainly much better on the approach and route itself for a beginning climber. Good luck and climb safe. 8^)
okay...I appreciate this comment ..thanks for your input. Something my friends would have neglected to tell me because it would not have been an issue for me was that it was very exposed...
I will look for something else a little less committing for her. any suggestions...but it has to be good stuff!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:03 PM
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thanks for the input...I am not worried about snake dike at all as goes my leading it. The exposure could definitely be an issure for her and if it is so exposed then I will steer her towards something else. Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated.
Any other suggestions for really good( cause I have to climb it too) but really easy climbs in the valley... I think I am definitely going to take her up "after 6"....anything else??
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renohandjams
Jul 20, 2005, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4. |
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2005, 6:06 PM
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You could take her up royal arches. Great exposure with really easy climbing. Short approach. 15 pitches, with only 3 going at .7.
The descent might be a problem though. Either many rappels, or a trek down North Dome Gully.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: thanks for the input...I am not worried about snake dike at all as goes my leading it. The exposure could definitely be an issure for her and if it is so exposed then I will steer her towards something else. Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated. Any other suggestions for really good( cause I have to climb it too) but really easy climbs in the valley... I think I am definitely going to take her up "after 6"....anything else??
After 6 might be too tricky for someone who has never climbed before. Have you led it before? The crack can be slick in places, and for someone who has never crack climbed before, she will definitely have a hard time. For sure not a good introductory climb in Yosemite. I have been told, and I probably agree with this, that After 6 is the hardest 5.7 in the Valley.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Snake dike also has a long dangerous runout 70+ feet with no protection. Even though it is a 5.7 I don't like the idea of the runout. 7-8 pitches right? That's a lot for a nonclimber, but I guess it is supposed to be easy climbing, especially the last part, 5.4 jugs. I haven't climbed it, but we were seriously considering it and I decided against it because of the runout. Is the runout that bad? Any input on snake dake's runout? My 2 cents hahhaaaa, 70 feet? That's half of a runout. On pitch 4, I believe, there is one bolt on the entire pitch, right before you get to the anchors. literally, 15 feet before the anchors. It's like a 140 foot runout. The runout is on easy 5.4. Wow, 140 feet? Doesn't that mean a 280 foot fall if you loose your cool right before you clip into the last bolt? I'm not very familiar with what a 5.4 actually looks like. For some reason I imagine something straight up with easy hand moves, but isn't it pretty sloped? How many degrees? 80? 60?
I would say the runout probably averages betwee 65 and 75 degrees. It's climbing up a knobby dike, with bomber hand and foot holds. If you're worried about the fall on it, you're not ready. Definitely not something you want to lose your cool on.
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tradclimbr
Jul 20, 2005, 6:20 PM
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I can't recommend taking her up Royal Arches. That thing has some big exposure. I got stuck behind a party for a couple of pitches starting on P9. The guy's girlfriend had been climbing about 6 times before RA and she was gripped, crying, freaked out by the exposure, and all together having a shitty day. We started late figuring we'd cruise the route, but it took so long for us and the other parties waiting behind them to get the last few pitches done we almost had an epic rappel. (It was the last time I did a multi pitch route without throwing a Tikka in my chalkbag pouch.)
It got dark while we were doing the last couple of raps, when we heard that same woman let out a blood curdling scream from the cliffs way up above us. We found out the next day that something gave out and she dropped a couple of feet. Not much, but she got even more scared than she was before. And they lost one of their headlamps so he had to leave her in the dark at each of the rap stations. Somehow I don't think she enjoyed any of it. I doubt she ever went climbing again and I bet she ditched her boyfriend afterwords. Why don't you try out some mellow stuff at, say Lover's Leap. Or like someone else said, Cathedral Peak. Unless you want to ditch her...
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muskie
Jul 20, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Not sure if I'd recommend this for a first time out for your girlfriend there. The crux of the climb is the first two pitches which are friction traverses. Both of which can be pretty scary especially if someone is not used to how to use their rock shoes.
If you do decide to do it I'd recommend that you feel pretty confident risking a nice swing on the first pitch so that your gf doesn't have to. A small cam can be placed(just below the small pine tree) before you do the traverse on the first pitch(yellow or green alien not sure which one). Then I wouldn't recommend trying to get any more pro in for the rest of the traverse since the actual pitch ends nearly straight above the traverse. This way you won't risk you gf taking a potentially frighting swing if her feet pop on the traverse.
On the second pitch make sure that you do not pass the bolt that protects the one tricky move just before the two bolt anchor on the actual dike. A group ahead of me missed this bolt once and it proved to produce alot of cursing and a mini epic. It kinda blends in with the rock so make sure that you look for it when you are standing on the nice ledge that is below and to the right of the traverse. Once you get to the second anchor, you are on the actual salmon colored dike which feels kind of like a huge hold at a rock gym.
The remaining pitches are extremely run out but are fairly below vertical with good holds. It is possible to find protection in between bolts by dropping the occasional tricam in the holes you'll find in the dike. Over all the runout sections are not that scary since it is pretty straight forward and relatively easy climbing. I don't think your girlfriend will have a problem with these pitches at all since she isn't the one that has to worry about the long falls. She might, however, have a problem with the first two pitches since i think starting on 5.7 polished slab might be a little stiff for someone's first time in rock shoes.
Like the other post said, you might want to start her out on some tr or something that isn't such a long hike and allows for you to get out of the elements since it'll probably take you longer then you think. Check supertopos.com for an excellent topo of the route too. Well, hopefully that helps and if you decide to do it, have a good time.
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tadam2000
Jul 20, 2005, 6:26 PM
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Notwithstanding the earlier comments regarding the approach, exposure, etc., do you really want to be belayed on a runout pitch, no matter how easy it might be -- or on any pitch for that matter -- by someone who's never done it?
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:31 PM
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For her first time in the Valley, I'm thinking that The Cow (any variation) on Glacier Point Apron would be a good first climb for her. Very easy climbing, with good views, and a little tricky traverse on the second pitch for spice if you want.
Definitely get helmets though. It's famous for rock fall. Then, if she does well with that, hop on The Grack just to the right,
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kalcario
Jul 20, 2005, 6:35 PM
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*do you really want to be belayed on a runout pitch, no matter how easy it might be -- or on any pitch for that matter -- by someone who's never done it?*
Taking leader falls on Snake Dike is not an option, so the belayer hardly matters. "Gee I wonder if my belayer will hold this 140' cheese-grater fall...".
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:36 PM
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oh totally...Royal arches..we just soloed that when it was soaking wet in may...what a different climbing experience that was...
Thats gonna be the one...it should be real dry in early september...right??
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:43 PM
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Yes, and about 105 degrees.
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:45 PM
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wow..muskie...very detailed..thatnks for your time.
yeah I might take her up royal arches but now that i think about it after 6 might be all the climbing she needs...I don't want it to be tedious and too long..just long enough to be an experience and fun as well.!!! thanks guys.
that snake dike description really makes me want to get to it someday..I have heard some people mention a full moon free solo..how cool is that!!
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azrockclimber
Jul 20, 2005, 6:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: thanks for the input...I am not worried about snake dike at all as goes my leading it. The exposure could definitely be an issure for her and if it is so exposed then I will steer her towards something else. Thanks for your help it is greatly appreciated. Any other suggestions for really good( cause I have to climb it too) but really easy climbs in the valley... I think I am definitely going to take her up "after 6"....anything else?? After 6 might be too tricky for someone who has never climbed before. Have you led it before? The crack can be slick in places, and for someone who has never crack climbed before, she will definitely have a hard time. For sure not a good introductory climb in Yosemite. I have been told, and I probably agree with this, that After 6 is the hardest 5.7 in the Valley.
well i soloed after 6, after 7, and nutcracker...so its not a problem for me...as far as after 6 being the hardest 5.7 in the valley I would have to disagree... I thought it was very very easy...it took about 20-30 minitues to climb the whole thing..
I know she could get up that with some help along the way...
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muskie
Jul 20, 2005, 6:50 PM
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Dam a full moon solo sounds awsome. Well reguardless of what you do, enjoy. Wish I was out there myself.
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climbinginchico
Jul 20, 2005, 6:53 PM
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I am still inclined to think that if she has never climbed before, much less climbed cracks, she will be having a tough time on After 6. Jamming isn't easy for people who have never climbed before, and a 5.7 hand crack might not be the best option for a first climb.
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billcoe_
Jul 20, 2005, 7:03 PM
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Personally, I don't know how shakylegs can recommend any long, classic route. She's NEVER climbed before.
Do any of you like the idea of being stuck behind them as the sun starts to drop. Those are crowded classic climbs, come on, think of others. Why put that kind of pressure on a beginner? People yelling and passing, all that kind of fuss.
Like the cow idea, and definately do the grack center and left which are right there, awesome 5.6/5.7's for her to take a shot at and if it dosn't work for her, its like a no fault divorce. No harm, no foul, no sweat, no pressure - you're back in the lodge drinking and laughing without ruining 20 other peoples trip and the bad mojo they would toss your way for doing it.
Also, highly recommend you take her out to the Knob Hill area, couple of real nice, shorter, easier routes for her there as well.
Have some fun!
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shakylegs
Jul 20, 2005, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: Personally, I don't know how shakylegs can recommend any long, classic route. She's NEVER climbed before.
Hey, look, just flying over your head. Ah, you missed it. It's called sarcasm.
You know, don't ever let anyone tell you that you aren't as smart as a regular houseplant, because I'm sure you are.
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floridaputz
Jul 20, 2005, 7:17 PM
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There are two aspects worth considering, which have already been discussed. One is the approach. If your Girlfriend is an experienced hiker or in great shape, she might enjoy it as a work out. If she is not in shape or use to exposure and very physically demanding scrambling forget it. If she passes muster here, as mentioned, the idea of climbing with friction must be understood by her. The first 2 pitches require friction moves. The runouts don't matter if you're leading (I found the runouts no big deal). Although again, as mentioned, there is a traverse on the 1st & 2nd pitches that could affect the second. I found over time that taking a girlfriend (or anyone)on a climb over his or her head rarely is a good idea.
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paddy
Jul 20, 2005, 7:31 PM
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I agree with several posters, take her up something with a shorter approach that is easier that she can enjoy. Snake Dike is a fun climb but long approach, exposure and long descent. I don't mean to offend you but Church Bowl, Manure Pile or even Swan Slab may be more appropriate - at least for the first day out.
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travellinjack
Jul 20, 2005, 7:48 PM
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you should go to hogsback at Lovers Leap. 15 min. hike from camp to the climbs. Lots of 5.5 -5.7 climbs. The climbs arn't that long also, about 2-4 pitches depending on the length of your rope. Lots of places to put pro in. It's just outside of South Lake tahoe. I went there last weekend and it was excellent. it's a great introduction to multipitch climbing
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climbsomething
Jul 20, 2005, 8:30 PM
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Check it out! A guy wants to winch his non-climber girlfriend up a conga-line Yosemite trade route!
I am sure Yos locals and visitors with a clue thank you for the warning.
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phaedrus
Jul 20, 2005, 8:35 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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crackaddict
Jul 20, 2005, 9:53 PM
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Do you hate this person?
A good way to get out of a relationship huh?
If you want to get rid of her just leave her in camp 4 in the care of some crusty old wall rats while you go out and climb.
On the other hand. If she made it up the route, through the full day of hiking, did'nt complain, has a smile on her face at the end of the day, and says, what are we gonna climb tomarrow?
Shes a keeper!
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