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gat
Jul 28, 2005, 1:40 PM
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What's your favorite Seneca 5.8?
Thanks.
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j_ung
Jul 28, 2005, 1:45 PM
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Ooooo... Triple S! With Ecstacy a close second.
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mischief8
Jul 28, 2005, 1:49 PM
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Conn's East Direct
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climboard
Jul 28, 2005, 1:59 PM
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Triple S would have to be the most classic, with The Burn and Tomato close behind.
J_ung- Ecstasy is a 5.7, but it is high quality!
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thorne
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Jul 28, 2005, 2:08 PM
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I seem to recall lousy pro for the crux of Burn, but it's just headgame for a short section.
Triple S is burley all the way. Anyone getting the redpoint earns the right to thump their chest.
Triple S is the best.
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 2:30 PM
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I haven't done it in 20 years, but Pleasant Overhangs is also a great climb. Back in the day, (before sticky rubber and tiny cams) Triple S was a manly route (5.8 my arse) with a couple of dubious placements at the crux. I remember a 40 footer on that one once...classic.
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bishop
Jul 28, 2005, 2:43 PM
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The Burn
Triple S
Pleasant Overhang
West Pole (5.7 - but still very fun)
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bullet_proof
Jul 28, 2005, 2:46 PM
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Plesent O is a 5.7 also.
burn is my favorite.
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 2:51 PM
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Seneca 5.7. The sandbag capital of the east coast.
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bullet_proof
Jul 28, 2005, 2:53 PM
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No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct.
The other soft areas are for egos.
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hyhuu
Jul 28, 2005, 2:58 PM
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Best 5.8? Triple S and CLimbing & Punishment (minus the last dirt, short and difficult to protect pitch).
Pleasant Overhang is 5.7 and Ecstacy is a 5.4 with one 5.7 move.
Climb on
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 3:01 PM
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Most of the routes we are talking about were one, two or three letter grade above the original rating. I would agree that they are closer to reality now.
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bishop
Jul 28, 2005, 3:04 PM
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In reply to: No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct.
fully agree!
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chew_griffey
Jul 28, 2005, 3:15 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct. fully agree!
ditto!
Triple S
Lichen or Leave It
Burn
Tomato
Ye Gods and Little Fishes
Alcoa Presents
Climbin' Punishment
All Excellent!!!
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gat
Jul 28, 2005, 3:18 PM
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I have noticed a lot of people are big fans of Pleasant Overhangs. Is the second pitch traverse and subsequent belay that people enjoy? Or is it pulling the bulge?
I've been on all of the classic 7's and almost all of the 7's in the guidebook(haven't led every one). In my relatively worthess opinion, PO ranks at or near the bottom of the classic 7's. For perspective, I'd probably put West Pole, Dusty's and Soler at the top. Disclaimer: I tend to forget the details of all but my favorite climbs.
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aikibujin
Jul 28, 2005, 3:24 PM
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In reply to: Ecstacy is a 5.4 with one 5.7 move.
Haha! Classic hyhuu sandbag. :lol:
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fishbelly
Jul 28, 2005, 4:19 PM
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Alcoa Presents
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 4:24 PM
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With regard to Pleasant O's fun factor, the traverse to the semi-hanging belay and the bulging move into the dihedral after it...very cool and exposed. Westpole is a one move climb that used to be 5.6, back when 5.9 was the realm of only a few.
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gat
Jul 28, 2005, 4:35 PM
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In reply to: With regard to Pleasant O's fun factor, the traverse to the semi-hanging belay and the bulging move into the dihedral after it...very cool and exposed. Westpole is a one move climb that used to be 5.6, back when 5.9 was the realm of only a few.
Funny thing is, it's not the "one move" of Westpole that I give the high marks to - it's the second pitch that rates in my book. Longer than a lot of pitches at Seneca and pretty consistent. Granted it's consistent 6ish, but it's loads of fun.
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 5:25 PM
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I can't argue that! Man, I need to take my son back to Seneca. Did anyone ever take down or burn that god awful climbing wall in the middle of town?
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seric
Jul 28, 2005, 5:56 PM
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In reply to: ditto! Triple S Lichen or Leave It Burn Tomato Ye Gods and Little Fishes Alcoa Presents Climbin' Punishment All Excellent!!!
If triple S is 5.8, Ye God is 5.2 with one hyhuu move.
eric
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gat
Jul 28, 2005, 6:01 PM
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Nope, the wall still stands.
edited to remove possibility of ethics discussion
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mccabeman
Jul 28, 2005, 6:02 PM
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Thank you. Solid 5.9, I may argure 10a. Of course, I was in eb's the last time I led it.
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aikibujin
Jul 28, 2005, 6:02 PM
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In reply to: Ye God is 5.2 with one hyhuu move.
Sandbaggers, all of you! But I guess that's what you get from climbing at Seneca.
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nowinowski
Jul 28, 2005, 6:27 PM
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you don't need sticky rubber and the damn thing (SSS) protects better with hexes that nobody caries anymore, so the old timers can stop whining about how it used to be harder.
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moeman
Dec 15, 2005, 9:49 PM
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In reply to: I haven't done it in 20 years, but Pleasant Overhangs is also a great climb. Back in the day, (before sticky rubber and tiny cams) Triple S was a manly route (5.8 my arse) with a couple of dubious placements at the crux. I remember a 40 footer on that one once...classic.
What tiny cams? That crack eats nuts and hexes. Though sticky rubber certainly is a bonus...
(And it still is 5.6) :wink:
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fishbelly
Dec 15, 2005, 10:03 PM
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Ye Gods an little fishes
Alcoa
Kosher critter.
I am glad I did most the 5.9s before they were upgraded to 10s
They were hard then. Dont think I could handle tham at 5.10
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overzealous
Dec 15, 2005, 10:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: No, it is the way it is supposed to be. It is in line with yosemite and therefore is correct. fully agree!
Having climbed at Seneca a good bit, and at Yosemite once, I still find the Seneca grades to be a good bit harder, at least in the 5.7-5.9 range.
They may be just as technically demanding at the valley, but I found these climbs to be much less physically demanding.
I expected the opposite, since I'm much more accustomed to the style of climbing at Seneca.
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climboard
Dec 16, 2005, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Having climbed at Seneca a good bit, and at Yosemite once, I still find the Seneca grades to be a good bit harder, at least in the 5.7-5.9 range. They may be just as technically demanding at the valley, but I found these climbs to be much less physically demanding. I expected the opposite, since I'm much more accustomed to the style of climbing at Seneca.
That's been my experience- the grades at Seneca tend to be stouter than Yosemite unless you are talking about offwidths.
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azrockclimber
Dec 16, 2005, 3:32 PM
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can you climb in seneca during the winter months?
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fishbelly
Dec 16, 2005, 4:29 PM
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Pick your days and climb in the sun.
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nowinowski
Dec 16, 2005, 4:35 PM
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How about best 10's and 11's ? Lets hear it
Pyschokiller
Nip and Tuck
Orangeaid
Terra Firma
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climboard
Dec 16, 2005, 5:01 PM
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In reply to: How about best 10's and 11's ? Lets hear it Pyschokiller Nip and Tuck Orangeaid Terra Firma
Sunshine
Castor
Pollux
Cottonmouth
Broken Neck
Agony
Changeling
Autumn Fire
Ambush
Nip and Tuck is one of my favorites at any grade, anywhere.
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forkliftdaddy
Dec 16, 2005, 5:08 PM
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This might be a good place to mention that the hook placement on Negative Feedback has been compromised/is greatly degraded. A guy fell on it and broke the rock. The hook held, and maybe it would again, maybe.
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cragmasterp
Dec 16, 2005, 5:49 PM
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I've gotta put in some props for Lichen or Leave It, great one pitch classic.
Triple S for sure,
Alcoa Presents is super special because of its positioning.
Dufty's pop off (5.7 R) should be on any ones list that can lead 5.8 solid at Seneca. Crux is well protected and fun (roof) and the runout to the belay can be fairly well protected with modern gear.
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nowinowski
Dec 16, 2005, 8:09 PM
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the hook placement on Negative Feedback is a Gimmick sp?. Way cool route with or without it.
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microbarn
Dec 16, 2005, 8:25 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: How about best 10's and 11's ? Lets hear it Pyschokiller Nip and Tuck Orangeaid Terra Firma Sunshine Castor Pollux Cottonmouth Broken Neck Agony Changeling Autumn Fire Ambush Nip and Tuck is one of my favorites at any grade, anywhere.
Are you just trying to name all of them??? :)
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nowinowski
Dec 16, 2005, 8:29 PM
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they are hidden al over I actually think there are more good hard climbs at seneca than easy ones cause they tend to be the cleaner ones. Anyone done the Sorceror?
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climboard
Dec 16, 2005, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: How about best 10's and 11's ? Lets hear it Pyschokiller Nip and Tuck Orangeaid Terra Firma Sunshine Castor Pollux Cottonmouth Broken Neck Agony Changeling Autumn Fire Ambush Nip and Tuck is one of my favorites at any grade, anywhere. Are you just trying to name all of them??? :)
LOL- no, but to be honest I don't think I've been on anything 5.9+ and above at Seneca that hasn't been enjoyable. Like Nowinowski said, they tend to be really clean lines.
I haven't been on the Sorceror but it is on my to-do list, it's been highly recommended by a few people I know along with Psycho Killer and Sidewinder.
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cclarke
Jan 26, 2006, 8:12 PM
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nowinowski wrote: Anyone done the Sorceror?
I've done it a few times. It's thin by the lower bolts and easier higher up. I recall the gear as good between the bolts and the climbing not so hard there.
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virginia_alpinist
Jan 26, 2006, 8:35 PM
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most definately SSS!!! a solid 5.9+ anywhere else...
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emilb
Jan 26, 2006, 8:49 PM
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I didn't think TripleS was all that hard for 5.8. Not a gimme but nowhere near as hard as Air Show at Moore's Wall or Paradise Alley at Shortoff. Of course I like stemming.
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naitch
Jan 26, 2006, 8:55 PM
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I agree. I just think it's a 100' pitch of good sustained climbing. I'm not a 5.10 climber (nor a Seneca 5.9 climber, but I was able to do that one just fine. Maybe I just had the technique down.
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virginia_alpinist
Jan 26, 2006, 9:01 PM
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Opinions will always vary..... mine well it's probably because I moved out to CO last July and the .9's here are more like Seneca .7's... I have climbed at Seneca most of my life and am proud to say it's the stiffest anywhere! I learned to lead their in the '70s..
I am leading .10c here pretty much onsite and following .11b... doubt I would ever get to this level @ Seneca...
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up_for_a_good_time
Jan 26, 2006, 9:06 PM
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Soler (5.7), as I've experienced, can turn into a pretty wicked 5.10+ route if you don't read the guidebook correctly and stray from the intended line. Pulling a small roof and pretty stupid runouts made for a "dude, if your mom knew you just did that..." kind of day. Good times.
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