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philbox
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Sep 9, 2005, 4:54 AM
Post #76 of 144
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In reply to: Still don't get what's behind your motives? You could probably be much more professional about it. If i sound like a smartass, I am not being one. When i asked all those questions, That's exactally what i was trying to do get things moving again. I consider myself a serious climber. Anyways, It's 10:00 pm and i gotta climb tomorrow. After the 10 hour work day, of course. CHEERS.
Nope, no sinister motives at all and no you are not coming across as a smartass.
I saw in the original thread some brilliant questions and equally brilliant answers that deserved their own thread thusly we now see these posts reside in their own thread.
As for me being professional about it, heaven forbid that I should ever become professional about anything. :wink: :lol:
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climbhigher
Sep 10, 2005, 10:06 PM
Post #77 of 144
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Ok, Whatever....going climbing now!!! Got 9 hours of work today. I just might make it to the Valley this October.
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climbhigher
Sep 11, 2005, 9:26 PM
Post #78 of 144
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Ok, I am done climbing for today. So, I will mark some time.
Up above it says you need maybe up to 100 free biners for A4/A5...this does not seem logical.
You figure one pitch is 200 feet max in length. If you make a placement once every say 5 feet, which you would be doing if you are ready to soil your bigwall boxers, that's 40 placements. That means you need at least 40 biners. If you bring 20 quickdraws (or Screamers) that leaves you with a minimum of 20 biners needed. And if you bring 8 shoulder lengh slings with two biners on each one that would be 16 biners plus the 20 quickdraws. That's enough for 36 placements. That means you need 8 more biners and that's if you use two biners clip togther for each placement. Now, If you happend to place a few aliens on the way and don't have to extend the placement because of rope drag this will lower your biner count. For the belay, 2 or 3 lockers may be needed and maybe 5 biners max. So, what i am saying is, if you keep everything organized which you better be doing if your climbing A4 and A5 you don't need 80 or 100 biners. This is important because its the difference of making that weight only placement stick or not stick.
This issue of bringing tons of gear for El Cap routes is hard to get away from because EL Cap is sooo damn big!!! and is sooo damn intimadating that your like...I am goinng to bring every damn cam i have!
When you look up at El Cap, you are not doing one long lead up that 3000 foot face. You are doing 20 or 30 or so leads of 200 feet and less. You only need enough gear to make it 200 feet max and then you get all you gear back. This is extremely important when you are doing lots of free climbing up there as i found out the hard way.
Ok....Off Topic...
This kind of thinking is also important while climbing. Don't focus on El Cap instead focus on the pitch you are on or about to do. After you send that pitch, focus on the next pitch you are on.....don't focus on that bivy or the top...keep focusing on making it to that next belay. Worrying or thinking about that super hard pitch half way up the route is a waste of energy. You wouldn't be up there if you didn't think you could do it some how. So keep climbing...and before you know it you will send.
Think Light be Light.....even Levitate if you have to. Levitate with you mind and your body or maybe even your ass will follow.
Wish me luck on my first A4 pitch on The Big STONE!!! Hope i bring enough biners!!!!!!
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enjoimx
Sep 11, 2005, 9:42 PM
Post #79 of 144
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Climbhigher...Good luck man!
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lambone
Sep 12, 2005, 6:22 AM
Post #80 of 144
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I ussualy cary about 30 biners when soloing an aid pitch, plus 10 or so draws and free slings. I allways end up need ing one or two more at the belay no matter how many I have.
Not bonking is pretty easy, bring some good grub and stop and eat it. I load up my pockets with bars and gu and chug them periodically. 1 quart of water per pitch is about right if it is hot. Bring a couple of packs of smokes too...
have fun!
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skinner
Sep 12, 2005, 8:02 AM
Post #81 of 144
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In reply to: I always end up needing one or two more at the belay no matter how many I have.
In reply to: Bring a couple of packs of smokes too... |
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dangle
Sep 12, 2005, 2:46 PM
Post #82 of 144
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Never carried 100 freebies but I have carried 80 and was glad. Don't forget that you have to rig two belays at once, and walls ALWAYS use more biners than "theory" allows for.
At least it seems that way from the few I've managed to succeed on.
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dangle
Sep 12, 2005, 8:24 PM
Post #83 of 144
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In reply to: didn't Ammon McNeeley Bonk super hard soloing Eagles Way? He told me he was so spent he slept with his face plasterd to a urine stained ledge unable to move. Friggin Hard Core!!! It just makes me want to go suffer.
Personally I think it takes a lot of courage to admit to either. If it was me I would have kept my mouth shut.
climbhigher, I don't think it would be too hard to find someone to accomodate you. Just go to the bottom of your nearest crowded crag and with the proper shout you should get pissed on, but like I said keep your mouth shut.
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imnotclever
Sep 13, 2005, 12:40 PM
Post #84 of 144
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In reply to: didn't Ammon McNeeley Bonk super hard soloing Eagles Way? He told me he was so spent he slept with his face plasterd to a urine stained ledge unable to move. Friggin Hard Core!!! It just makes me want to go suffer.
Ammon's story. And check out some of the other ones while you're there.
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crotch
Sep 13, 2005, 1:27 PM
Post #85 of 144
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You ALWAYS need more biners than you have. You'll use at least 20 bivying, and you won't get all those biners back for the lead the next morning.
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epic_ed
Sep 14, 2005, 5:50 AM
Post #86 of 144
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For the multi-day stuff, I bring along 20 "toy" biners for the belay and bivy. Hang all your random bags and trinkets with these and keep the full-strength biners for your safety system. Or, fuck with your partner by clipping the toy biners to pro you know doesn't have a chance in hell of holding a fall. You gotta have a sense of humor...
Ed
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lambone
Sep 14, 2005, 5:54 AM
Post #87 of 144
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20 toy biners :roll:
extra crap.
no offense ed, but leave the extra crap behind and you'll have less weight pulling you back down to the ground. :wink:
would be funny for freaking someone out though!
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dangle
Sep 14, 2005, 6:59 AM
Post #88 of 144
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20 sounds a bit much but I like Ed's idea as far as dedicated "toys" for day packs, personal kits, bolt bag, boom box etc. where they would normally eat freebies from the system.
When I put up desert walls I carry a large supply of baby angles on a sort of giant safety pin used in SCUBA for sliding through the gills of the fish you spear. Same size so big bunch doesn't matter and weighs far less than the biners it would otherwise require.
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epic_ed
Sep 14, 2005, 1:17 PM
Post #89 of 144
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Boney, they're lighter than taking along an extra 10 regular biners to make sure I have enough at the bivy. On the multi-day stuff, that weight is a drop in the bucket, anyways. And I certainly don't take them for the push & blast routes. Hey...it works for me.
Ed
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lambone
Sep 14, 2005, 7:41 PM
Post #90 of 144
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do you ever ind yourself wishing you had real biners up there instead of fake ones?
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epic_ed
Sep 14, 2005, 9:11 PM
Post #91 of 144
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No, it solves the problem for me. I always have enough biners during the climbing, but it's on the ledge at bivy time that I used to waste time and energy scrounging around the anchor and rack to find "spare" biners to hang stuff while vertical camping. Now I leave my rack at the anchor sorted and ready to go for the next morning, and then just dig into my supply of toy biners (clipped into the internal loops of the haul bag) when ever I need to clip in the stove, the sleeping bag, the pad, the food bag, the gloves, the brain bucket, the jacket, the stogies, the 1st aid kit...and all the other shit that comes out of the haul bag during the bivy.
The key for making this work, IMO, is to make sure you keep the rack sorted and ready to go for the next morning, and then the toys go back into the haul bag.
Ed
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euroford
Sep 14, 2005, 9:37 PM
Post #92 of 144
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now that you describe it that way, this actually sounds like a great idea.
though i think i would want to take all of the toy biners and spray them dayglow orange or something to make sure they don't get mixed up into stuff they arn't supposed to.
edit: does anybody know of a 'toy' biner that is at least specifcly rated for a couple hundred pounds maybe?
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areuinclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 9:41 PM
Post #93 of 144
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thats a pretty good idea. but that means that i have to go out and spend $3 a biner for those damn things.
when i am bivying i just use the free biners that i used through out the day to clip shit in. the one thing i always run out of are lockers.
i carry my biners in groups and dont have any assembled draws. i just have 24 2' slings (12 on each biner). my wall system is pretty unefficient right now though.
what do you guys (epic-ed, lambone... etc.) do in the morning. do you leave your ledge out and take care of all that stuff after the next pitch is led or do you pack everything up and organize your stuff for the day, and then climb the next pitch?
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epic_ed
Sep 14, 2005, 10:18 PM
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Check eBay -- they frequently have auctions for large lots of them. I bought a lot of 22 toy biner for $14 earlier this year. After shipping it was still much less than $1-per-biner.
As for breaking down camp:
- If soloing -- I like to get camp torn down and then lead. That way I don't have a comfy bivy to return to when I've lead the next pitch and have no excuse to hang around. If not, then it's tempting to sit in the ledge a while, grab lunch, spank the monkey...what ever. There are exceptions -- a leisure day where you only have a one-pitch goal, weather looks iffy and you'd benefit from a place to take shelter if the shit hits the fan, etc.
- If with a partner -- Leader cleans up personal gear and gets moving. Second climber tears down the bivy and packs the haul bags.
Ed
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lambone
Sep 15, 2005, 4:54 AM
Post #95 of 144
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areyouin...
I like to fix the next pitch in the eveing so that all is required in the morning is packing up and taking off up the ropes. I'll even do one mor epitch in the dar and let my bud set up the bivi, cause I like leading in the dark (unless free climbing or weird rouefinding is involved).
Or if that is not possible...I'll still pack everything up except for the ledge before taking off in the morning. I think packing up seems easier when two guys work on it together. Soloing i'll pack it all up first also. I save the ledge for last cause it's nice to hang out on, flaging it is awesome on steep stuff too.
Ed' you'll have to test your biner method out for more then one night at a time and let me know how it goes... :wink: just pullin' your leg man...
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epic_ed
Sep 15, 2005, 6:11 AM
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No, no...it's true. Two nights is my max, so far. Full disclosure here -- no hiding from the facts. Plenty of single nights, though. :roll: I count the ones where I'm sleeping on the porch because me and da missus got in a fight.
Ed
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lambone
Sep 15, 2005, 6:22 AM
Post #97 of 144
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ha that's classic...do you really get sent off to the Portaledge instead of the couch!? LOL
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clausti
Sep 15, 2005, 7:14 AM
Post #98 of 144
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In reply to: edit: does anybody know of a 'toy' biner that is at least specifcly rated for a couple hundred pounds maybe?
it depends on where you buy them. sometimes hardwear stores have them rated to 150 lbs.
my buddy jeff [~135 lbs] took *repeated* whips on one of the 150 biners, up to 15-17ish feet and never did manage to break any.
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jt512
Sep 15, 2005, 7:21 PM
Post #99 of 144
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In reply to: my buddy jeff [~135 lbs] took *repeated* whips on one of the 150 biners, up to 15-17ish feet and never did manage to break any.
Was there some reason to think that he was safe doing this? Any lead fall taken by a 135-lb climber would load the carabiner in excess 150 lbf.
-Jay
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mikeehartley
Sep 15, 2005, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
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I second the toy biner usage. I've been using them for a couple of years and, though I've never weighed it, I think they may even save me weight. Almost everything clipped to the daisy in the pig hangs on one. I'll even occassionally use them for RP's and such on the rack. And, as Ed mentioned, not having to scavenge the rack while at the bivy helps with organization.
Being able to mess with your partner's head is something I've never considered but now it makes them priceless.
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