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areyoumydude


Mar 29, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Re: [flamer] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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flamer wrote:
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.

josh

Because....?


flamer


Mar 29, 2007, 7:11 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.

josh

Because....?

...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites.

josh


areyoumydude


Mar 29, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Re: [flamer] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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flamer wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.

josh

Because....?

...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites.

josh

Then why slander him in the first place?


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Mar 29, 2007, 7:44 PM)


medicus


Mar 29, 2007, 7:41 PM
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Re: [flamer] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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I'm honestly not a huge fan of Dean Potter...I don't severely dislike him either. I just mainly took the side that I did because I think it is a bit harsh to question someone's integrity over it.


flamer


Mar 29, 2007, 8:30 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.

josh

Because....?

...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites.

josh

Then why slander him in the first place?


My OPINION is far from slander....which leads us to the reason's I didn't want to discuss it in the first place.

josh


Gmburns2000


Mar 29, 2007, 9:20 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
flamer wrote:
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.

josh

Because....?

...I'm not going to get into it. But I assure you my opinions are not formulated by what has been said/written in the mags or on a bunch of websites.

josh

Then why slander him in the first place?

I don't know much about him (other than his tightrope tricks and freesoloing), but the Arches trick didn't seem overly ethical, in my opinion. Of course, pushing boundaries isn't always bad, so I guess that's why some people have come to his defense. Still, I'm not convinced that climbing "untouchable" monuments is a good thing for climbing access, and I don't think it was as spontaneous as it was made out to originally be.

Having said that - my trad hero is regular-guy Mat Goodyear (RIP 2006). He introduced me to climbing, taught me to lead climb, took me on my first big climbs, and the end of his life came too, too soon. Either way, he changed my life and I will always be grateful for that.


stredna


Mar 29, 2007, 9:43 PM
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Re: [angelaa] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Peter Croft and Hot Henry have enormous perverbial balls!


Partner blazesod


Mar 31, 2007, 5:13 PM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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You

The self proclaimed climber grown web surf

You are my hero, my inspiriation, my source of inner power

You

The life-long expert who chooses to remain annonymous

When you comment about past conquests like the Nose

You

The one sitting there thinking of a witty reply

Taking this forum post personally

You are my hero

Cheers, :)
-Dave


(This post was edited by blazesod on Mar 31, 2007, 5:17 PM)


live2climb


Mar 31, 2007, 6:29 PM
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Re: [test] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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your my hero test

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/France/Alps_and_F...phin_/C_se/H_Biographie/Biographie_aka_Reali..._32392.html


(This post was edited by live2climb on Mar 31, 2007, 6:31 PM)


medicus


Apr 2, 2007, 2:33 AM
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Re: [blazesod] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Lol, okay... I just got back from a great weekend of climbing, and for some reason, this post made me laugh a lot.


lextalion


May 31, 2007, 1:41 AM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Jim Donini, Tommy Cauldwell & Eric Decaria


jgill


Jun 7, 2007, 3:19 AM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Paul Illmer


tradmanclimbs


Jun 7, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Re: [jgill] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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I read both Barbers and Taylors books. I am sure that there is some merit in both of their sides of the story. The photo in Barbers book of Taylor just before his fall tells a big story though. To an experienced ice climber it is obvious from that photo that taylor is a hairsbreath from coming off. I also climbed ice and photographed in that era and those manual cameras were not condusive to one handed snapshots. That photo for me adds credibility to Taylors acusation that Barber dropped him. It would be tough to take that photo with a manuel SLR and still catch the ensueing fall. All the other crap and fingerpointing in taylors book is dissmisable as sour grapes but the major point to me is who is telling the truth on the fall? Taylor claims that the screw held and Barber dropped him. Taylors claims he rememberd sitting on the ledge looking up at the rope going through the screw above him and that Barber dropped him because he was taking a photo when Taylor fell. The photo of Taylor about to fall in Barbers book seems to support this? Barber claims that the screw pulled. That is a major black and white disparity. Who knows the real story??? What would Taylors motovation be to lie about the screw pulling? he could and did sling pleanty of other mud. On the other hand Barber had pleanty of motovation to deny that the screw held and there is the photo that seems to support Taylors version of Barber botching the catch?

(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Jun 7, 2007, 3:13 PM)


bob_54b


Jun 7, 2007, 3:04 PM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Layton the great'un and Fred Becky....both outstanding climbers.


thegreytradster


Jun 9, 2007, 3:02 AM
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Re: [bob_54b] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Gave this one some thought and came up with a pair that deserve true hero status. From all accounts balanced and sucessful lives as well of a lifetime of climbing. I would run into them often at Lunch Rock in my novice climbing days ( 1969) and had practicaly memorized his guidebook.

Chuck and Ellen Wilts.



A 1947 honeymoon shot.

They bagged the FA of Mathes Crest on that trip.


(This post was edited by thegreytradster on Jun 9, 2007, 3:04 AM)


superbum


Jun 9, 2007, 4:31 AM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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John Bachar, Peter Croft, Lynn Hill, Josh Warton, Kelly Cordes, Layton Kor, Steve Hong, Dale Bard, Jim Donini, Jason Lakey, Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, JIm Bridwell, John Long...etc.. and some others too...


time2clmb


Jun 9, 2007, 5:25 AM
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Re: [superbum] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Calling some one a hero for simply climbing or doing any other activity seems pretty retarded.


sungam


Jun 9, 2007, 9:47 AM
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Re: [time2clmb] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Wowza!
I'll chip in with Dave MacLeod and JOHN DUNNE (the fat dude!)

-MagnuS


(This post was edited by sungam on Jun 9, 2007, 9:48 AM)


Cragulator


Jun 13, 2007, 3:01 AM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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Herman Buhl..... Messner....


rockguide


Jun 13, 2007, 3:22 AM
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Re: [time2clmb] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
Calling some one a hero for simply climbing or doing any other activity seems pretty retarded.

They can be climbing heros and inspire our climbing. Some live their lives in an inspiring way as well and can be more well rounded heros.

Plenty don't.


sanfranpunk


Jun 13, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Re: [onbelay_osu] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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my climbing heroes are:
russell bobzeine(spelt wrong i'm sure we call him russell b.) and joe de luca


704core


Jun 14, 2007, 12:43 AM
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Re: [areyoumydude] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Half of your heros are dead.

Wow dude, way to piss in someone cornflakes...

Do you flip your mother off with that finger?

Next time try something like... "Those are nice heroes to have onbelay_osu, wish they were still alive." See how that makes you feel like your not a complete ass-bag that shiites on someone elses life?


wallwombat


Dec 5, 2007, 11:31 AM
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Re: [cbreeze] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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[quote "cbreeze"]Glad to see HB Matheson got a mention, he is the only trad legend down under imo.
[/quote]

What about John Fantini?

He is a trad legend from down under. A++


wallwombat


Dec 5, 2007, 11:39 AM
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Re: [wallwombat] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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No one has mentioned Mark Wilford. Or Michael Gilbert.


My pick, among many would be Greg Child.


And Peter Croft.


And ......


munky


Dec 5, 2007, 12:26 PM
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Re: [wallwombat] hero's of trad climbing [In reply to]
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What a great thread but I'm suprised to not see Roger Briggs mentioned. After spending a summer in RMNP I learned about Briggs and his accomplishments. He has pioneered most of the harder routes on the Diamond including the Joker which has only been repeated a few times. I even had the chance of seeing Josh Wharton working this route 2 summers ago only to have to bail. Briggs supposedly rode his bike from Boulder to the trailhead of the Diamond (approx. 40 miles up hill) and then hiked the 7 miles to Chasm Lake and then proceeded to climb the route and make the return trip back home all in a day. That's the kinda shit that I admire. If you can do that, two a days in the valley wouldn't be all too hard.

Some of my more local heros fromt the Southeast include Doug Reed, Porter Jarrard, Doc Bayne, Andy Kluge, Hunt Prothro, Mike Artz, Kris Klein, Tony Barnes, Joey Henson, Pascal Robert, Jeep Gaskin, and Monty Reagan. Many of these guys still climb regularly and most helped develop areas and pioneer local classics.

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