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coldclimb
Jul 16, 2006, 3:42 AM
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In reply to: How is it that many of you agree with that statement. C'mon....there have to be others who can plug and go. As far as splitters go, I can blast up 'em way faster than a face where I have to suss s--- out. Coyne's Crack in about 7 minutes! Tradsters step up to the plate and dismiss this foolish notion that we are slow and clunky! Justin
Well you're right, but really, it all depends on so many things that one can't say trad climbing is slower than sport, or vice-versa. There is no right answer. :lol:
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andypro
Jul 17, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Whoa! First post in damn near two years...Amazingly I actually remember alot of your guys :P
I go both ways. Sometimes it's fast, usually i's nice and slow for me (relatively anyways). Most of the stuff around here is damn frightening limestone ground fall pink talus mist hell though.
That's what slows me down. It's not the gear. When I've climbed in places like Yosemite and Tahoe, I could haul ass with great confidence in the gear. Around here though (Niagara Escarpment) I spend time making damn sure that the move I'm about to do is the one I want to do! I suppose it would help if I stayed in the more popular areas where everything is nice and clean and stable, but what fun would that be?!
--Andy P
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kriso9tails
Jul 17, 2006, 12:51 AM
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In reply to: Around here though (Niagara Escarpment) I spend time making damn sure that the move I'm about to do is the one I want to do! I suppose it would help if I stayed in the more popular areas where everything is nice and clean and stable, but what fun would that be?!
The popular areas here clean and stable? Definitely in a relative sense. Wait, no, I guess they really are clean; I mean, they even send out crews to polish the holds to a nice high gloss.
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zeke_sf
Jul 17, 2006, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: Yeah, but since I haven't redpointed anything hard, I think it was just bolted face climbing instead of sport climbing. :P (but you probably have to read numerous obnoxious threads in the sport forum to get that one...)
I, unfortunately, get it :lol:
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ambler
Jul 17, 2006, 7:50 PM
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"Isn't there anything faster than a microwave?"
-- Homer Simpson, impatiently heating food
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dbarandiaran
Aug 18, 2006, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: "Isn't there anything faster than a microwave?" -- Homer Simpson, impatiently heating food
haha i love it! yes trad can be slow, but the more you do it the faster you get. it also depends on how much gear you place, how hard, etc. i remember my first leads, they were slow. recently, however i have climbed several climbs on the flatirons, which are typically runout, full ropelength pitches, and climbed most pitches in maybe 10 mins. also recently, i ended up offroute, on an unprotectable slab, 25 feet (at least) diagonally up from my previous placement, and probably quaked in my shoes at a stance for 10 mins. yep it depends, but it is my favorite style, by far, and i rarely do any other climbing other than multipitch trad routes.
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sky7high
Aug 19, 2006, 3:33 AM
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of course trad is slow, it just takes a lot more brains than sport! now aid... well that's a different matter
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solutionpocket
Aug 19, 2006, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: [I think what you meant to say was, "I'm slow at Trad climbing." A couple of guys linked Northern Lights into Freeway into the Grandwall for a total of over 30 pitches in 15 hours, including 3 1 to 1.5 hour descents last weekend. Nearly 5,000 feet of climbing (mostly 5.11, with a couple of pitches of 12) in 15 hours. When was the last time you did that sport climbing? How about freeing the nose in a day? That's a lot of rock in not much time.
Actually, Lynn Hill trained for her Nose in a day ascent by doing 30-50 Limestone sport routes a day.
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mcfoley
Sep 1, 2006, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: ...But I think a lot of it is that I have much more of a do not fall attitude...
I think it's more cuz of my do not die attitude... :lol:
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harihari
Sep 2, 2006, 7:57 PM
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Well what about all those hardcore dudes in Yosemite that climb El Cap in one day, aiding only a couple of pitches? or Croft.
I find trad goes faster-- most routes have crux pitches, so you can blast up the easier ones.
All the sport climbers I knwo get otu there and do maybe 5 pitches a day max, less if taking burns on projects.
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david_smithrock
Sep 3, 2006, 12:54 AM
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If you were to ignore gear on a trad route and bolt everything, of course it would be quicker to clip bolts rather than placing gear.
Try climbing "Time Wave Zero" at Potrero, a 23 pitch bolted 5.12 that even first time big route climbers can easily do in less than 10 hours, and a good 5.12 multi-pitch team can do in a few hours no problem. Lots of fun, too! (thanks for all those bolts Magic Ed and gang)
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