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uasunflower

Aug 2, 2007, 1:53 PM
Post #1751 of 2461 (6556 views)
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
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Re: [overlord] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i hardly onsight "6c", so i guess i don't qualify by default for anything either Unsure

petje

Aug 2, 2007, 1:56 PM
Post #1752 of 2461 (6556 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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Re: [overlord] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Hey, i climb 7c's! Cool

Stone, if it wasn't for the total lack of bolts (even at the belays), i would go. i always wanted to do some alpine sportsclimbing. But i want to emphasize on the 'sport' in the above expression.

It's not the walk or the hours of driving. But i really have not enough exp with trad stuff, and don't want to fly 15+ meters cos i can't put good gear, and most of all, i don't want to make belays on gear i don't trust myself and endanger my and partners' life.

And needing to second all the lengths is not what i imagine when i would go alpine.

So, if you have some amazing lines hard and with commitage, but also with a bolt or 2 at least on the way up, i really would consider doing something like that!

uasunflower

Aug 2, 2007, 2:20 PM
Post #1753 of 2461 (6547 views)
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
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Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

most of the time you have bolts for belays on hard pitches - but again, last time on Portalet, topo said belays with bolts + rappel stations on each pitch on Esprit du Clocher route, but between P3 and P4 on 6c there was no belay or rappel points = gear anchor...

so petje, just learn to put gear in - that's much easier than learning to climb 7c, trust me Wink

petje

Aug 2, 2007, 2:59 PM
Post #1754 of 2461 (6542 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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Re: [uasunflower] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

uasunflower wrote:

so petje, just learn to put gear in - that's much easier than learning to climb 7c, trust me Wink

I know what you want to say, but i aready know how to climb 7c, so it WILL be harder for me to learn to trust my own gear placements. Crazy

tisar

Aug 2, 2007, 3:33 PM
Post #1755 of 2461 (6538 views)
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
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Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

uasunflower wrote:

so petje, just learn to put gear in - that's much easier than learning to climb 7c, trust me Wink

I know what you want to say, but i aready know how to climb 7c, so it WILL be harder for me to learn to trust my own gear placements. Crazy

There's always the possibility to trust your ability to climb 7c. Come on, what suits Ueli Steck should be goood for you, ain't it? Besides we all learn that great free soloists gotta fear trafffic and waves more than rock... Stil not convinced? Wink

Have a nice Feierabend!

- Daniel

stone_d_cologne

Aug 2, 2007, 3:55 PM
Post #1756 of 2461 (6534 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

uasunflower wrote:

si aready know how to climb 7c, so it WILL be harder for me to learn to trust my own gear placements. Crazy

if you trust your own climbing skill, its easier to trust your gear.

stone_d_cologne

Aug 2, 2007, 3:56 PM
Post #1757 of 2461 (6532 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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Re: [uasunflower] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

uasunflower wrote:

i hardly onsight "6c", so i guess i don't qualify by default for anything either Unsure

you might not qualify for 7c, but you definitely qualify by spirit!

stone_d_cologne

Aug 2, 2007, 3:57 PM
Post #1758 of 2461 (6530 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

Hey, i climb 7c's! Cool

So, if you have some amazing lines hard and with commitage, but also with a bolt or 2 at least on the way up, i really would consider doing something like that!

ok, you're booked for FUTURA in tessin! 20 pitches 7c+. fully bolted.

petje

Aug 3, 2007, 6:13 AM
Post #1759 of 2461 (6513 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309

Re: [stone_d_cologne] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Now that sounds interesting. (i even volunteer my new qd's) But we need to train for that! 7c+ was not so easy last wednesday, remember? Tongue

is there some more info on the net for that idea? Are all pitches 7c+, or just 1?
slab, overhang, traverse, off-widths?
How long to walk to the start of the route?
how far to drive?
inform me!
Make me be there in spirit Angelic

stone_d_cologne

Aug 3, 2007, 8:29 AM
Post #1760 of 2461 (6499 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

7c+ was not so easy last wednesday, remember? Tongue

that was belgian 7c+

In reply to:

is there some more info on the net for that idea? Are all pitches 7c+, or just 1?

theres nothing on the net. but great pics in the juli issue of vertical. 4 pitches of 7c I remember.

In reply to:

slab, overhang, traverse, off-widths?

nothing that horrible. face climbing, slightly overhanging.

In reply to:

How long to walk to the start of the route?

don't know. not too long.

In reply to:

how far to drive?

ask your navigation device for locarno

In reply to:

inform me!
Make me be there in spirit Angelic

petje

Aug 3, 2007, 9:41 AM
Post #1761 of 2461 (6495 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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Re: [stone_d_cologne] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Now you have got me really interested! To be continued?

stone_d_cologne

Aug 3, 2007, 1:55 PM
Post #1762 of 2461 (6471 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [petje] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

Now you have got me really interested! To be continued?

propose a date.

theguy

Aug 4, 2007, 9:52 AM
Post #1763 of 2461 (6453 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Next weekend: Eiffel? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Too bad I'm not out this weekend, since it's gorgeous, but planning on next weekend somewhere close to Duesseldorf (e.g. Eiffel)

Anyone want to go 5/6 sporting?

(This post was edited by theguy on Aug 5, 2007, 3:46 PM)

chrtur

Aug 6, 2007, 12:23 PM
Post #1764 of 2461 (6422 views)
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 384

Re: [uasunflower] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

UA, around and climbing Angelic

Will see if I post something later?

It is really nice the Orny area, together with the Aiguille de la Varappe Wink

The smooth wall there is very impressive.....

uasunflower

Aug 6, 2007, 1:22 PM
Post #1765 of 2461 (6416 views)
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563

Re: [chrtur] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

yes chtur, do post! have you done anything at Aiguilles dorées lately? Or still in your snow routes? I looked at Grand Paradiso yesterday and thought of you Wink

And here for the rest of you - the non-climbing (i presume) bunch...

theguy

Aug 6, 2007, 1:25 PM
Post #1766 of 2461 (6415 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Anyone have recommendations on hiking within a few hours drive of the Eiffel?

stone_d_cologne

Aug 7, 2007, 8:23 AM
Post #1767 of 2461 (6388 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [theguy] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

theguy wrote:

Anyone have recommendations on hiking within a few hours drive of the Eiffel?

eifel south (towards luxemburg/Ferschweiler) is a nice place to hike and to take climbing shoes and chalkbag along. maybe you find some nice bouldering along the way.

bytheway: its eifel, not eiffel. got nothing to do with the guy with the tower.

stone_d_cologne

Aug 7, 2007, 8:25 AM
Post #1768 of 2461 (6385 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [uasunflower] Not so Good news [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

uasunflower wrote:

[image]http://bp1.blogger.com/_7OTm6bE0YnA/RrcYsUov0lI/AAAAAAAAAJs/rTbRLzB0JaM/s320/ecrins.JPG[/image]

looks like you were hiking a lot...

petje

Aug 7, 2007, 8:27 AM
Post #1769 of 2461 (6383 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309

Re: [stone_d_cologne] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Yesterday late i booked a flight to munich for friday morning! 3 days FJ!

Sportclimbing rocks!
Angelic

(This post was edited by petje on Aug 7, 2007, 10:12 AM)

uasunflower

Aug 7, 2007, 9:01 AM
Post #1770 of 2461 (6376 views)
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563

Re: [petje] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

stone, hiking is the base for everything!

theguy

Aug 7, 2007, 10:16 AM
Post #1771 of 2461 (6375 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 469

Re: [stone_d_cologne] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Thanks stone for info and correction

overlord

Aug 7, 2007, 2:35 PM
Post #1772 of 2461 (6353 views)
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

on-topic: climbing [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i had some rock today.

even climbed 7a Cool

a route i climbed before, but still...

stone_d_cologne

Aug 7, 2007, 2:56 PM
Post #1773 of 2461 (6351 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [petje] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

Yesterday late i booked a flight to munich for friday morning! 3 days FJ!

Sportclimbing rocks!
Angelic

I booked a trip with ua. trad climbing rulez!

petje

Aug 8, 2007, 8:15 AM
Post #1774 of 2461 (6316 views)
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309

Re: [stone_d_cologne] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Ha! at least somebody DID bite! thanks

stone_d_cologne

Aug 8, 2007, 11:51 AM
Post #1775 of 2461 (6302 views)
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338

Re: [petje] Off-topic: hiking [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

petje wrote:

Ha! at least somebody DID bite! thanks

you are in no way freed from your responsibility to climb a bolted alpine test piece with me!

...after 14 years of climbing you are still such a sissy... Crazy

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