|
brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 5:54 AM
Post #226 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
In reply to: Glad this thread is back on track. got my 1st ice in on Saturday, more to come this Sunday. I'll take pics for Brent, Magnus and Chossy. ;)
we'd like to see it!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 7, 2006, 5:58 AM
Post #227 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
wil do. even get some with your handles in action!
|
|
|
|
|
builttospill
Nov 7, 2006, 6:19 AM
Post #229 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2004
Posts: 814
|
got on ice for the first time of the season today. 2 hour hike to a 50 foot waterfall, nice wide curtain allowing a few runs up and down at different levels. Good first day, felt a lot more solid than I expected....
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 2:17 PM
Post #230 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
In reply to: In reply to: And yes Darkside, I know it is winter there. :evil: Hey choss, just so it's someone else letting you know again... It's winter here :P :lol: :twisted: BWAHAhahaa!
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Grant made a point to tell Jumpingrock to tell me when we went out rockclimbing last Sunday that he (Grant) was climbing ice. :evil:
I guess I'll have to add you to the list with Grant. :roll:
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Nov 7, 2006, 2:21 PM
Post #231 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
:cry:
Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :(
|
|
|
|
|
redlegrangerone
Nov 7, 2006, 2:57 PM
Post #232 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851
|
In reply to: :cry: Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :(
16 days and counting for me MR. Chossmonkey. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 3:01 PM
Post #233 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
In reply to: In reply to: :cry: Brent, it looks like we will likley be the last to get on ice this year. :( 16 days and counting for me MR. Chossmonkey. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
yeah, we likely will be. maybe mid december we'll get a cold snap....all we really need is 4 days of COLD and we'll have enough to swing, gingerly, some tools.
you going on that trip in 16 days, red?
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #234 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
We just had the first Ice climbing fatality on the 2006/2007 season in Alberta. Tony Devonshire was caught in an avalanche near the Fortress ski hill. http://www.live-the-vision/cms has a thread with some details there is also a thread in the injury and accident forum: http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/122172
Tony was well known in the local seen and will be missed greatly. I didn't know Tony well... recongnize him out at a climb and have a chat type of thing. Especially during the early season, the ice climbing community really is a small community. A loss like this really does hit everyone.
The Avalanche forcast for the area was rated Low accross the board, but with a chinook and some light precip thigs change so fast up there.
I was going to get a beacon a few years ago after we were caught, but I haven't yet. Having only one in a party is useless right. Well I climb with some people who do have them, some why not bring them on a climb? Not every climb, but ones that have terrain above them. I've already sett aside some cash and will be getting one as soon as I get my next paycheck. I've already come too close to loosing a partner before, it's not having one worth it? Is having one worth it? You make your own decision. They aren't needed on every climb, but would be nice to have on some climbs. Really they weigh next to nothing, and if like me it has been years since you did the avi course... It might not be a bad idea to take it again. It really is easy to develop bad habits.
This tragic accident is a reminder that no matter how LOW the rating is LOW does not mean NO chance of an avalanche. Climb safe out there people, never get complacent and alway listen to your gut when you get that sence that "you not feeling it".
Tony was a very experiance and safe climber, so is Kevin. It seems somehow not right to be saying Tony was....
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 5:11 PM
Post #235 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
Sorry for your loss, Brenden.
sad to read this.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 7, 2006, 7:01 PM
Post #236 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Oh... man Brenden, I don't know what to say. That is seriously terrible. My most sincere condolances to his friends and family.
I think I will be touching up on my winter saftey skills this season.
If it comes... last year, the snow didn't form a safe enough base to get anywhere near ice till january, and I didn't get out till febuary...
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 8:54 PM
Post #237 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Thanks guys. Yesterday I was contacted by a guy from City TV here in Calgary who is doing a bit on Climbing and Avalanche safety. He asked me if I was willing to do an interview as he had heard that I was involved in an Avalanche a few years ago. I agreed and we did an interview today at lunch. If it helps just one climber to avoid the wrong conditions then it was worth it, doing the interview. This reporter is a climber, although he doesn't climb ice yet, he's even climbed with one of my partners who was there a few years ago. It should air on Thursday evening and Saturday morning.
I just want to say again that Tony was an experianced and safe climber. It can happen to the best of us. Tony was only 25 and was taken far to soon. :cry:
Play safe everyone.
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 9:02 PM
Post #238 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
good of you to do the interview. 25 is way too young.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Nov 7, 2006, 9:22 PM
Post #239 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
I hope your interview helps get others to realize the need for avi training, I know you helped me.
25, almost hard to believe.
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Nov 7, 2006, 9:41 PM
Post #240 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
In reply to: 25 is way too young.
In reply to: 25, almost hard to believe.
That's what I can't get my head around too. The Reporter had met Tony a number of times too, and it just seems odd to have a conversation about a fellow climber and use past tense. At 25 we shouldn't be using "was".
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 7, 2006, 11:33 PM
Post #241 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
In reply to: In reply to: 25 is way too young. In reply to: 25, almost hard to believe. That's what I can't get my head around too. The Reporter had met Tony a number of times too, and it just seems odd to have a conversation about a fellow climber and use past tense. At 25 we shouldn't be using "was".
I think we can take the lesson that we are very much mortal even at this age, as much as we don't like to believe it.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 8, 2006, 1:22 AM
Post #242 of 252
(16495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
Avi class is definately on my list this year.
Sad way to remind me how important it is.
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 14, 2006, 3:47 AM
Post #244 of 252
(2345 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
SWEET!!!!
how did the handles hold up, Steven???
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 14, 2006, 4:03 AM
Post #245 of 252
(2342 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: SWEET!!!! how did the handles hold up, Steven???
Because I'm no mixed stud, the second handle took a lot of abuse on the vertical ice and rock. Didn't really get in the way but it was hitting a LOT. Could I just lop off a bit of it or is it better for you to mod them?
One thing I did like over the madame handle was that the second handle gave me some space to match as it (the handle) would press against the rock/ ice, leaving a gap. of course this was a problem too. I think for ice and most mixed stuff, I'll stick with the madame handles. I think in a few weeks we'll be heading to Vail and I might play on some steeper stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Nov 14, 2006, 6:00 AM
Post #246 of 252
(2334 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
In reply to: I've already sett aside some cash and will be getting one as soon as I get my next paycheck. I've already come too close to loosing a partner before, it's not having one worth it?
Don't forget the shovel! You don't want to find yourself wishing that you had one. I totally agree with you on the beacon(s), although 1 is better then none.. if everybody were to get just one, as their own personal equipment.. we'd be set to go, but being fairly expensive, people (including me) seem to find other things to spend their money on before avi gear.
Another option.. they are pretty cheap to rent from the UofC Outdoor Center.
AVALANCHE SAFETY GEAR
Avalanche transceiver ..................... 7.00
(need two AA batteries–not included)
Avalanche probe ............................ 2.00
Snow shovel .................................. 2.00
Snow saw ...................................... 2.00
Snow profile study kit ..................... 4.00
They also have 2 hour transceivers clinics for $20.00
Not a bad idea either.
Any idea what brand type you are planning on getting? I've decided to go with the Ortovox F1. The F1 because it is the standard, time-tested model, and Ortovox because they have a store locally right next to Wicked Gravity, and have put on a free clinics/seminars in the past that were really good/informative.
-Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Nov 14, 2006, 6:31 PM
Post #247 of 252
(2307 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Kevin,
I decided to go with the Mammut Barryvox (red one, been out about 5 years now or so). I've used the F1 a bunch of times throught the years and love it. I read reviews for most of the ones we can get around here, and I decided that the benifite of having both Digital/analouge was something I liked. I have a number of friends who have the Mammut Barryvox and they all love it. I agree with the shovel thing. What are your oppinions on the light weight plastic shovels? I've always been wary of them... I like the fact that the aluminum blades are hard to break.
As for Ice.... Three day weekend.... three days of ice.
King Creek for some ice cragin'
This House of Sky for some swimmin'.... rumours of man eating liquid mid-route on THOS
Phantom Falls.... it's finally in! Climbed it yesterday. Narrow and funky at the top. You can still get some screws though. The walk in sucks compared to the usual drive though!
Thanks for posting the rental costs I was going to get around to that too. They're cheep to rent. Good for those who don't spent much time in avi terrain. As for me, I'm getting my own. I know where it's been then and That way I'm always using the same one.
Play safe.
-Brenden
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Nov 14, 2006, 7:22 PM
Post #248 of 252
(2302 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
In reply to: In reply to: SWEET!!!! how did the handles hold up, Steven??? Because I'm no mixed stud, the second handle took a lot of abuse on the vertical ice and rock. Didn't really get in the way but it was hitting a LOT. Could I just lop off a bit of it or is it better for you to mod them? One thing I did like over the madame handle was that the second handle gave me some space to match as it (the handle) would press against the rock/ ice, leaving a gap. of course this was a problem too. I think for ice and most mixed stuff, I'll stick with the madame handles. I think in a few weeks we'll be heading to Vail and I might play on some steeper stuff.
The secondary is awfully long for pure ice, yes. And you could just lop some off of the handle with a cut off disk in a grinder or in a band saw, but I would prefer it if you sent them back to me to do any modifications. If you want, I can shorten that handle and add a lip on the end so you have some more purchase. Or you could send me a bit of extra cash (40 bucks and I'll ship them) and i'll send you a set of new handles.
Let me know, Steven.
Brent
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Nov 14, 2006, 8:30 PM
Post #249 of 252
(2086 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
Brenden,
as long as you have a set, that's all that matters. They are all on 457 kHz anyway, so having them is more important then the brand. As far as the plastic shovels go, I was somewhat skeptical myself until my g/f gave me an Ortovox Professional with a Lexan blade.
http://www.ortovox.com/...ex.php?id=27&L=1
The thing is so compact and at 600g you don't even know you're carrying it. I have had it for two years now, and have used it for everything from digging the jeep out, to chipping platforms out in the ice. I'd have no problems recommending it now that I have used and abused one.
-Kevin
Edit: Quote from Ortovox: "The lexan blade developed by ORTOVOX is unbreakable and torsion-free giving the user full confidence while digging"
(This post was edited by skinner on Nov 14, 2006, 8:35 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
mysterio
Nov 14, 2006, 11:55 PM
Post #250 of 252
(2071 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2006
Posts: 5
|
Does anyone know how the ice is around Calgary? Kananaskis or Jasper and anything in between.
|
|
|
|
|
|
