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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 1:53 PM
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As I try to become more efficient placing gear, I'm wondering if my racking techniques need some attention. Typically, I rack lg nuts (8-13) and sm nuts (4-8, doubled) on seperate biners; 1, 2, 3 cams on seperate biners; .5, .75 on a single biner; small cams together on a single biner(3 sizes). My slings, about 12 24" are doubled or trippled with two biners on each (trad runners). 2 48" runners and 2 cordoletts wrapped up on a biner. I don't carry the tricams much but they share a biner.
Any thoughts on reducing the bulk? I carry the gear on my harness, slings clipped to a runner over the shoulder.I'd thought of reconfiguring the slings and biners.
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vegastradguy
Sep 11, 2007, 2:07 PM
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i carry my gear as follows:
right front loop: large stoppers, 6 trad draws (racked in pairs).
right middle loop: anchor kit (extra draws optional)
right back loop: atc/nut tool
optional: i may also rack a second set of stoppers on this side.
left front loop: medium stoppers, small stoppers, 6 trad draws (racked in pairs)
left middle loop: water bottle (extra draws optional)
left back loop: spare carabiners
gear sling (over the shoulder):
cams, in order from smallest to largest, each on their own carabiner. smallest start on my chest up high, largest end up on my side down low. i usually carry anywhere between a single and double set of cams this way- it doesnt really matter, as the racking system works no matter how much gear i have on.
other notes:
i only carry one size of stopper per biner. if i'm carrying multiple sizes of a stopper, i carry them on separate biners and usually rack them on opposite sides. this allows me to get at that size no matter which hand is free. it also makes sure that if i drop one carabiner with stoppers, i still have some in that size.
i also dont subscribe to carrying multiple cams on one carabiner. i personally think that this is a good way to drop $200 worth of gear. it makes sense for stoppers, but the bulk and cluster of multiple cams makes it seem like a loss rather than a gain. another couple of ounces wont kill you.
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dingus
Sep 11, 2007, 2:30 PM
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I use a gear sling. It holds the pro, largest in the back. I don't rack multiple cams on a single biner, I don't like that practice. I don't like the risk of dropping the whole package and don't like the hasske of decoupling the cams. Every cam has a biner.
I rack for the route and try not to take gear I won't need. I try to avoid taking 20 cams up a 100 foot route, for example. I see no value to toting a #4 camelot up a finger crack.
Draws and slings on the harness. Very few over-the-shoulder (almost never, in my case, unless cleaning the previous pitch dictates an over-the-shoulder rerack).
Pretty much most of the detail about my racking method is predicated on fast belay change overs for multipitch. Harness racking gear takes way too long, imo.
Cheers
DMT
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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 3:35 PM
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I was racking my cams all on seperate biners until recently, and yes dingus it does make me nervous about dropping multiple cams with one mis move. The gear rack with loops seems to be the solution to some of my organization issues, gonna pick one up right away. I've left gear behind and found it needed on the 2nd / 3rd pitch, I don't do that any more unless I am well versed in a particular climb.
VTG, thanks for the loop by loop break down, there's a leader who's got it dialed. I'll try a new approach when I rack up next weekend in the Gunks. Thanks!
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tichy
Sep 11, 2007, 3:55 PM
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If I rack up for longer route, I tend to keep nuts in two biners, 1-5 and 6-11. they go to the front loop of my harness along with tricams 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0, each in separate biner. left side front loop has tricams 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.5 and one #1.0 3CU.
I have 5 trad draws and 5 quickdraws, all located on the back loops. right back loop also houses flexicams 2x #2, 2x #3 and #4 as/if needed, usually on their own biners. I do not carry all of them unless route calls so.
If cams come along, I move draws to shoulder sling and they hang on left side and left back loop will be reserved for anchor gear, eg. braided long slings and locking biners. Rest of essentials, knife on a biner and two to four prusiks are in two locking rings (usually I carry four prusiks).
Exceptions come into a picture if line does limit access to either side but I usually try to keep tricams within reach on both sides for quick access. If route is positive slab, I try to limit the use of shoulder sling.
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angry
Sep 11, 2007, 4:06 PM
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Jimo, don't think too hard about it. If you get a system "dialed" your system will hold you back. Learn to rack any way. Learn to climb on anyone's rack. Learn to climb with a sling. Learn to climb without a sling. Learn to lead at your level without reracking. Learn to fire a piece from a non-stance with a cluster fuck between your legs. Learn to reach backwards and grab the right piece blind.
Most leaders try the looped gear sling once, then it sits in a box for the rest of it's life. A plain ol' gear sling or a 1" double length runner will give you far more versatility.
Generally slings and draws on the harness, cams over the shoulder. Any analysis beyond this is bound to fuck you.
Experiment, do things differently, and remember the rock dictates what works, you (me or anyone on the internet) don't.
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shrug7
Sep 11, 2007, 4:26 PM
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I'm new to the world of trad, but this is what I have found works best for me.
Every cam on it's own 'biner. (the last thing I want is to be fiddling with cams connected to each other when i'm trying to get one in quickly. )
I split my stoppers between two wire ovals smaller on one and bigger on the other. ( I am thinking about getting doubles of 7,8,9 so I'll have 3-9 on one and 7-13 on the othe (sorry random side thoughts))
Front gear loops -
Met #4 and BD .5 .75 1 and 3 on each side. (doubles)
my single cams I try to think ahead as to what side would work best.
draws, cord, and other stuff on the rear gear loops.
I have 5 short draws, 5 24" and 2 48" draws try to keep
the 3/2/1 on each side.
Why carry two cordoletts? carry one 20' that should take down some of the bulk.
I think I have a fear about climbing with anything around my shoulder and neck...just sounds like if something got caught it would be "bad".
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winglessangel
Sep 11, 2007, 5:04 PM
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I only have one set of C4 and one set of wallnuts so it may makes things easier.
I carry each cam with its matching color neutrino. I carry the smaller nuts (1-6) with one biner and the rest (7-11) with another.
The matching color is not just pretty it actually makes a lot easier to find what I want. I look straight to the biners, not to them cam and then to the biner.
The colors only repeat when the cams are very much different in size. (like .3 and 3)
If I'm climbing a dihedral or opposing crack I put everything on the same side.
I don't have a sling; I like to climb with a backpack to carry water, food and a wind stopper just in case. The pack I use has a gear loop that goes perfectly around my ribs.
(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 11, 2007, 5:06 PM)
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Jbitz
Sep 11, 2007, 5:11 PM
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I follow the same methodology as dingus.
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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 5:18 PM
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Seems like each time I go out on the sharp end I rack differently, sometimes the route dictates how I rack, sometimes when I'm climbing with a crusty old climber I take a hint from how they rack. I'm taking all of this in to come up with my own system so I can reach blindly for the peice that's gonna save my ass, pretty much the point of carrying gear, right? I've always had a 1" webbing sling as my "gear sling" works well for bail webbing or to fortify some of the scary rap stations, but is not very comfortable and all of the crap seems to swing around to the front just when I'm taking that sketchy high step. I suppose I'd sacrifice the little insurance the webbing offers for a Metulious gear sling, it may reduce the sketchy nature of swinging gear.
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angry
Sep 11, 2007, 5:32 PM
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There's nothing wrong with a gear sling like this
You can still move it behind you and swing it and easily switch sides with it
But this
Pretty much designed to look cool in the store and sell, never to be used again. I've met one climber in my life who's got one of these that used it more than once. Speaks volumes.
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wings
Sep 11, 2007, 5:34 PM
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Everyone has their own reasons for racking up the way they do.
For me, I tend to lead all pitches (my wife does not lead trad), and I specifically bought a harness with 6 gear loops (Misty Mountain Cadillac) so that I wouldn't have to use a gear sling (and in any case the benefit of quicker changeovers does not apply in my case). I also prefer placing nuts with my right hand, so all my nuts are on the right side. So bearing that in mind ...
Front right
WC Helium w/ WC Ultralight Rocks 1-6
WC Helium w/ DMM Wallnuts 6-11
Trango Superfly w/ BD C3 1
Trango Superfly w/ BD C3 2
Trango Superfly w/ BD C4 .4
Trango Superfly w/ BD C4 .5
Trango Superfly w/ BD C4 .75
Back right
4 alpine draws (WC Helium, DMM Phantom, Mammut 8mm 60cm sling)
1 screamer draw (WC Helium, DMM Phantom, Yates Screamer)
Bottom right
Purcell prussik (connected to front)
Belay device (BD Vaporlock, Petzl Reversino)
Equalette (7mm static cord, 2 Trango Superfly Screwlocks, 3 WC Heliums)
Front left
Trango Superfly w/ BD 1
Trango Superfly w/ DMM 4CU 2.5
Trango Superfly w/ DMM 4CU 3.0
Trango Superfly w/ DMM 4CU 3.5
Trango Superfly w/ DMM 4CU 4.0
Back left
4 alpine draws (WC Helium, DMM Phantom, Mammut 8mm 60cm sling)
1 screamer draw (WC Helium, DMM Phantom, Yates Screamer)
Bottom left
Camera (LowePro Z10, Canon A70, Omega Pacific Doval)
Rappel backup (BD Positron Screwgate, 6mm static cord, leather gloves)
Nut tool (Metolius Freenut)
The whole setup (including harness) weighs a bit under 10 pounds.
- Seyil
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kane_schutzman
Sep 11, 2007, 6:50 PM
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When leading I rack on my harness loops. No general order, but I do put cams I think I ll use up front. In addition to shit the best way to sling them is to keep your 2 foot sings accross your chest, with only one beaner on each, then keep the other beaner on your cam. That way your not fiddling with using the slings(if they are shortened). At first I shortened my slings and had them on my harness, but that sucked.
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kane_schutzman
Sep 11, 2007, 6:51 PM
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Also, when folling, if switching leads I ll rack right to my loops. If the other guy is going to lead again, then just rack them all to one sling accross your shoulder..
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wings
Sep 11, 2007, 6:56 PM
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kane_schutzman wrote: In addition to shit the best way to sling them is to keep your 2 foot sings accross your chest, with only one beaner on each, then keep the other beaner on your cam. That way your not fiddling with using the slings(if they are shortened). At first I shortened my slings and had them on my harness, but that sucked.
To each their own. I do not like putting any slings this way as I find them awkward to remove. I would rather fiddle with an alpine draw than have to pass a sling over my helmet and possibly an arm which cannot let go. Plus, I often lead with a pack, which eliminates this option entirely.
- Seyil
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coastal_climber
Sep 11, 2007, 6:58 PM
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One gear sling with 5 gear loops. 5 smallest nuts on one biner, the rest on to others. Micro cams 3 on one biner. All other cams, chocks, Tricams on seperate biners. Small to big starting at the front.
>Cam
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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 7:15 PM
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2 cordoletts are somewhat necessary, unless you are climbing single pitch. I only really carry two up to the first belay, then my second carries it, know what I mean? OK so loops on the sling are out, I'll stick to my 1" webbing for now, my kid can get me that for xmas.
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dingus
Sep 11, 2007, 7:16 PM
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jimo wrote: The gear rack with loops seems to be the solution to some of my organization issues, gonna pick one up right away.
I HATE those things. You can't slide gear around... they basically took away the one thing that makes over the shoulder racking FAST.
DMT
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dingus
Sep 11, 2007, 7:18 PM
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angry wrote: Jimo, don't think too hard about it. If you get a system "dialed" your system will hold you back. Learn to rack any way. Learn to climb on anyone's rack. Learn to climb with a sling. Learn to climb without a sling. Learn to lead at your level without reracking. Learn to fire a piece from a non-stance with a cluster fuck between your legs. Learn to reach backwards and grab the right piece blind. Most leaders try the looped gear sling once, then it sits in a box for the rest of it's life. A plain ol' gear sling or a 1" double length runner will give you far more versatility. Generally slings and draws on the harness, cams over the shoulder. Any analysis beyond this is bound to fuck you. Experiment, do things differently, and remember the rock dictates what works, you (me or anyone on the internet) don't.
Dude I love you (not in a homo way mind you).
You give excellent advice and its very concise.
DMT
ps Is that AngryManLove? God I hope not!
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ckirkwood9
Sep 11, 2007, 7:40 PM
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loads of posts on this topic (i actually created one i think a year or 2 ago)
my method:
left side first loop: (all bigger gear)
* first 8 camalots (.4-3.5 i think) racked on RED Madrock wiregates that i got for a great deal
left side 2nd loop:
* the auto locker attached to my PAS routed UNDER the camalots
* 6 trad draws made of a combination of Madock wireages and/or bd neutrino/camp nanos +
mammut dynema 24" slings
right side first loop: (all smaller gear:)
* metolius ultralights in size 00, 0, 1 all racked on ONE silver madrock wiregate biner,
* first 9 Aliens - black through gray (i think) (and YES aliens, i still climb on mine) all racked individually on silver madrock wiregates
* set of BD stoppers divided up between 2 oval standard biners.
right side 2nd loop:
* 6/8 trad draws made up of 36/48" mammut dynema slings and madrock wiregates/camp nanos/bd neutrinos/bd lockers
rear haul loop:
* chalk bag
* nut tool on a madrock wiregate
WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THIS SETUP. When racking i can instantly identify what side the gear should go on due to the color of the biner (OR by the type/size of gear)
oh and all gear is marked with a tiny dot of orangey nail polish.
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epoch
Moderator
Sep 11, 2007, 7:42 PM
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This:
looked pretty on the gear rack. I bought one. I seldom use it as intended. I rack on my harness most of the time, else the gear gets stored on the devided sling for quick retrieval.
I guess that a useful answer is:
It depends
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shimanilami
Sep 11, 2007, 7:48 PM
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I do what Dingus does, except ...
dingus wrote: Harness racking gear takes way too long, imo.
If I know I'm going to need ~8 pieces or less, then I just rack those on my harness and let the follower carry the gear sling. Then he can re-rack as he cleans and there's no need to hand off any gear at the belay.
Also, I used a BD Zodiac gear sling a couple of weekends ago and it was sweet. It's overkill for most climbs but if your carrying a huge rack, then it's a good way to go.
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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 8:34 PM
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Thanks for all of the input, I just re racked my cams on biners, seperated my nuts and put the hardware back on the sling. Now everthing is nice and neat!
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lithiummetalman
Sep 11, 2007, 9:11 PM
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I pretty much rack whatever the pitch, climb, or system might demand. In general I rack on my harness, but I always carry a dedicated modified runner (A 24" nylon runner with one section taped down, where gear can be clipped too /out without getting caught) that can be used as a gear sling or as an emergency sling in a pinch; can decide on the fly (belay station) to whether to re-rack onto sling or harness. If not in use i usually just cram it into my pocket.
In general
front right loop: cams in front (each on own biner), then 1/2 set of nuts in rear
front left loop: cams in front (each on own biner), then 1/2 set of nuts in rear
right rear loop: trad draws stacked, 2 ovals, nut tool with 5mm cord sling
left rear loop: trad draws stacked, 2 lockers, atc
haul loop: 8 foot mammut 10mm sling wound around a DMM pearshaped biner
Shoulder: depending on climb, i move anywhere from 2-8 trad draws into extended from over my shoulder or none at all (generally do not like to have slings over shoulder)
edited: for my continuing retardation in the english language
(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Sep 11, 2007, 9:20 PM)
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jeff_m
Sep 11, 2007, 10:21 PM
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glytch wrote: jeff_m wrote: And two cordelettes? Sure, why not. I had an "experienced" climber (sport) following recently and when he came up to the second belay (on a long diagonal pitch) I asked him where the anchor was from the first belay. "Oh, I left it there. Can't we get it on the way down?" But, hey. Improvisation is a big part of the fun.  I bet the next party coming up really enjoyed all the great booty...  How many more pitches on the route? Did you kill the partner?
I was more dumbfounded than pissed. 3 pitches, two raps, then led the first pitch again to clean and rap. (More rock for me!)
Oh, looks like my work is done for the day...I'm goin' climbin'!
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lofstromc
Sep 11, 2007, 10:56 PM
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What do you all think of the BD zodiac gear sling.
I haven't used it yet, but I do like the way the gear sits when I load it up.
The gear reviews talk about modifying it so the gear wont slosh around and end up behind you and out of reach. Does anyone know how this would be done?
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dingus
Sep 11, 2007, 11:25 PM
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You ever see the guy at the gym that has a nut tool on his harness? AT the GYM???? Ever notice the looks that garner from the more experienced denizens?
That's how trad climbers look at noobs wearing Big Wall harnesses and gear slings on some 5.7 beginner climb. Exactly like that.
Now you may scoff at the notion of cool. But then again, I may have just saved you from the ole "potato goes in front' gaff.
DMT
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AZrockclimber1988
Sep 11, 2007, 11:52 PM
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The front two loops, I put all the cams on. The top two rear loops, passive gear and trad draws. The bottem rear two, I put ATC, nut tool, and the other stuff I dont need much. Never use a shoulder sling, to much of a pain for me, like it all on the harness. Also I like all cams on their own biners, makes life simply.
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fulton
Sep 12, 2007, 12:18 AM
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dingus wrote: noobs wearing Big Wall harnesses and gear slings on some 5.7 beginner climb.
It's the dozen new camalots racked upon it, not the sling itself, and a matter strictkly of jealousy.
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dingus
Sep 12, 2007, 12:38 AM
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Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy!
DMT
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vegastradguy
Sep 12, 2007, 1:25 AM
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i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it. non-looped slings bug me- everything gets so clustered together (imho). but, its all in what you prefer- i know lots of guys who climb on 1" webbing for a sling, and lots of guys who use the multi-loop- everyone has their preference. no big deal as long as you are efficient at changing gear at belays.
i'll also second what art says- know how to use the rope for anchor- i've stopped carrying a cordelette...i carry a 48" sling for the odd time i need it, but mostly i anchor with the rope.
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kellie
Sep 12, 2007, 9:33 PM
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My nut tool and prussiks stay on my harness at all times or I don't have them when I need them. If anyone at the gym has noticed or cared, I never noticed.
I've always hated gear slings, they're always in my way, can't see my feet, they swing around and throw me off balance on hard stuff, once I get a piece off I can never get it back on in the right place because everything's all jammed up together, I spend more time getting them out of my way than climbing.
That said, I've always believed a good climber should be able to climb on anybody's retarded system anywhere on any terrain, so if my partner is a big gear sling aficionado, I climb with one and rack on my harness for any particular pitch that is at my limit.
Dingus dude how you doing? Haven't heard from you in ages.
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caughtinside
Sep 12, 2007, 9:49 PM
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lotta good advice in here!
multi loop slings suck.
gear sling superior to harness racking 90% of the time.
Ditch the cordelettes. I haven't climbed with one for 3 years now. like I told my partner last week, "Leave that on the ground."
"What will I do for an anchor?"
"You'll think of something."
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petsfed
Sep 12, 2007, 10:05 PM
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dingus wrote: Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy! DMT
I'm always ashamed when I have a shiny new cam, even if its just because I needed a 2nd/3rd/15th cam in that same size. I can see the judgmental eyes and contemptuous chuckles of Dingus Milquetoasts the world over every time I do.
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fresh
Sep 13, 2007, 12:12 AM
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I actually bought this
without intending to actually climb with it. it's a great tool for carrying gear between climbs while keeping it organized.
(This post was edited by fresh on Sep 13, 2007, 12:12 AM)
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xjlx
Sep 13, 2007, 2:04 PM
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I use a 1" webbing for a gear sling - have used it on all but one pitch where I just racked on the harness which is nice when you know what you need on the pitch. I rack starting in the front with:
tricams: the "fab four" (pink-purple) on one biner
stoppers: split into two biners (big and small)
tcus: blue through red on one biner
camalots 1&2 on one biner
if needed larger cams on their own biners
on the harness:
left loop has my trad draws with one 48" in the back of the loop
rear left loop has equalette or slings for anchor.
rear right loop has reverso, prussic, biner for clipping in to the anchor.
right side loop has my nut tool
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jimo
Sep 14, 2007, 11:35 AM
Post #42 of 57
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Using the rope to anchor yourself in is somewhat elementary but I wonder how to build a gear anchor and equalize it using the rope that you're climbing with. I've been running the scenerio through my pea brain and can't figure out how to do that without causing an unsafe situation when my 2nd reaches the belay station and I take the lead again. Perhaps TFOTH will enlighten me.
BTW I'm with VTG on the multi loop gear sling, if it turns out that the loops are troublesome I have a knife and know how to use it.
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glytch
Sep 14, 2007, 1:47 PM
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jimo wrote: Using the rope to anchor yourself in is somewhat elementary but I wonder how to build a gear anchor and equalize it using the rope that you're climbing with. I've been running the scenerio through my pea brain and can't figure out how to do that without causing an unsafe situation when my 2nd reaches the belay station and I take the lead again. Perhaps TFOTH will enlighten me. BTW I'm with VTG on the multi loop gear sling, if it turns out that the loops are troublesome I have a knife and know how to use it.
When someone talks about building an anchor with the rope, they mean using the rope to connect the pieces of pro, not just tying the climber into the anchor. Anyway, it's really only practical if you're swinging leads with your partner, ie. your partner is leading the next pitch. If you are going to lead the next pitch, it really makes sense to have a powerpoint in the anchor so they can clip in and you can clip out easily.
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tomtom
Sep 14, 2007, 4:10 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it.
I use one too. Actually, sometimes I use two.
Don't worry about the Climbing Police. They're just angry about everything.
(This post was edited by tomtom on Sep 14, 2007, 4:12 PM)
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dynamo_
Sep 14, 2007, 4:15 PM
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I generally rack on my harness for single pitch and on a sling for swinging leads on multipitch.
I have used the Zodiac for climbing at one area with routes REQUIRING (as in not taking them just in case) two sets of cams for repeated 180-200' pitches. Worked well.
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dynoho
Sep 14, 2007, 4:46 PM
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angry wrote: There's nothing wrong with a gear sling like this [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/GearSlings-Slings/adjustablegearsling_lg.jpg[/image] You can still move it behind you and swing it and easily switch sides with it But this [image]http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/images/GearSlings-Slings/multiloopgearsling_lg.jpg[/image] Pretty much designed to look cool in the store and sell, never to be used again. I've met one climber in my life who's got one of these that used it more than once. Speaks volumes.
Angry,
Have you used the D-sling and if so, what are the cons? I've been thinking about getting one for better organization. It seems like this would help keep my nuts out of the cams. Is it more difficult to switch or swing? Just curious.
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dingus
Sep 14, 2007, 4:49 PM
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kellie wrote: Dingus dude how you doing? Haven't heard from you in ages.
How WE rack?
You gym climbers are all the same!
Kellie no one notices your nut tool!!!111
They're too busy lookin at yer butt! Can't say I blame em but 'cool' is different for us posturing guys, you know that.
I'm doing OK. Works been real busy this fall which is a good thing. Climbing some, hanging with the kids, abusing substances, you know, the usual.
I have been SERIOUSLY pining for some ICE kellie. Just a little North Peak or something.
Good times huh?
I can KICK AGAIN! FRONT POINT EVEN!
And it was 26 degrees in Mammoth last night. 2 week road trip coming up for work, then maybe... MAYBE... I swing tools for the first time in 3+ years!
How you doing girl? Miss ya! Here's to our next summit!
Cheers
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 14, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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dingus
Sep 14, 2007, 4:51 PM
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petsfed wrote: dingus wrote: Yes that giggling you hear is jealousy! DMT I'm always ashamed when I have a shiny new cam, even if its just because I needed a 2nd/3rd/15th cam in that same size. I can see the judgmental eyes and contemptuous chuckles of Dingus Milquetoasts the world over every time I do.
Not me buddy. I'm only marginally aware. I'm with the Bad Boys in the back of the bouldering cave, billows if questionable smoke wafting amongst the fake rocks. I'd be all...
right on.
DMT
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the_climber
Sep 14, 2007, 4:57 PM
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tomtom wrote: vegastradguy wrote: i feel like the odd guy out- i use the multi-loop gear sling from Metolius and i love it. I use one too. Actually, sometimes I use two. Don't worry about the Climbing Police. They're just angry about everything.
I use the multi loop sling too. For me it's great... keeps things separated and organized. That said I will often rack on my harness for shorter climbs, and will typically use a 1" sling if I am using a limited selection of gear.
Then Again, when using Darkside's rack on Bonanza (Ghost, Alberta) last weekend I racked on my harness...
I think the key is having the system you typically use down pat, but still keeping that flexibility to use other systems. No one system of racking is best for all climbs.
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dlintz
Sep 14, 2007, 6:15 PM
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Lotta people here racking everything on the harness. Personally I don't like all the gear tugging my harness down, so unless it's single pitch or can take a light rack my pro goes on a sling....a multilooped sling (gasp).
d.
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kellie
Sep 14, 2007, 10:58 PM
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Man look at all that crap I'm carrying around on a short climb. The Fish would scorn me!
I've been good, taking an EMT course and trying to heal up. Check your yahoo account for some pics.
cheers friend -- let's get some *climbing* in this year!
k
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vegastradguy
Sep 15, 2007, 12:52 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: you've gotta keep the individual loops balanced in the total weight of gear they hold, else the heaviest just slinks to the bottom, meaning the rest of the loops are out of reach and the padded section is now off your shoulder.
well, i start with the smallest cams at chest level and move up in size as the loops move down toward my waist. since one #2 camalot nicely outweighs all of my small cams, i've never had this problem.
however, if you were to put the #4 camalot on your chest and your small cams near your waist, i could see this being a problem.
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the_climber
Sep 15, 2007, 1:07 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: stymingersfink wrote: you've gotta keep the individual loops balanced in the total weight of gear they hold, else the heaviest just slinks to the bottom, meaning the rest of the loops are out of reach and the padded section is now off your shoulder. well, i start with the smallest cams at chest level and move up in size as the loops move down toward my waist. since one #2 camalot nicely outweighs all of my small cams, i've never had this problem. however, if you were to put the #4 camalot on your chest and your small cams near your waist, i could see this being a problem.
Sty, have you been racking your big cams at the front top loop again... how many time do I have to tell you...
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stymingersfink
Sep 15, 2007, 1:36 AM
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it's not so much where i rack them, i know how to do that intelligently. It's when I UN-rack them for a placement. Do that a few times and things just naturally tend to get out of balance.
Unless i'm in the Creek on a crack where 12 #2's are called for, in which case it really doesn't matter.
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studclimber
Sep 19, 2007, 1:21 AM
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I rack all my pro on a single length runner over my shoulder, like a gear sling. I rack all my alpine draws on the front gear loops (right and left) of my harness. Screamers, cordlettes, lockers, belay devices, etc. go on the back two loops. I rack all my small nuts (1-10) on a single biner. I rack all large nuts (11-13, multiples of some sizes) on a biner. When I carry hexes, they all go on a biner together. And each cam gets it's own biner, always. Oh, and I rack the smallest stuff in the front, and biggest in the back, starting with passive pro, ending with active. Hope that helps. :)
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flamer
Sep 22, 2007, 3:48 AM
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I love my multi loop gear sling.
It's be soaked in sweat so many times you could salt your french fries just by rubbing it.
For organisation and speed of placements I don't think anything is better. And I've tried a lot of different ways.
You just need to find what works for you...not everybody likes everything...and not everything works for everybody! Also be able to adapt...in some situations you need to step out of the box.
Here is a another tip for racking when you need multiple size's ....every cam gets it's own biner, then "layer" the doubles onto each other. That is clip 1 to the gear sling then clip the next one to the biner of the first. This keeps the loops from getting to "full", thus allowing you to grab the right cam with out "sorting" through biners on your rack.
josh
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