Hey everyone. I am wondering if it is possible to upgrade routes? I keep seeing all these routes downgraded, and I wonder if it is the same the other way around. There is a route I climbed outside that says it is a 5.10-, and I think it is at least a 5.11b or 5.11c. I talked to a guy that was there and he said it is definitely stiff for the grade.

just cause its in a gym, it doesnt mean that its right

Hey everyone.

There is a route I climbed outside that says it is a 5.10-, and I think it is at least a 5.11b or 5.11c. I talked to a guy that was there and he said it is definitely stiff for the grade.

just cause its in a gym, it doesnt mean that its right


i think the best way to determine the grade is climb other 11b's and c's in the area, along with some high 10's. see what the other stuff feels like, and make your rating suggestion based about the routes at that crag. consistency at the crag is more important

Seriously though, why should we trust ratings from an uncontrolled environment (outside), when we can compare everything to ratings from a controlled environment (the gym).

just cause its in a gym, it doesnt mean that its right

the gym i climb at rates stiff. i know one of the route setters he has blatantly said that certain routes were rated hard for various reasons.

i think the best way to determine the grade is climb other 11b's and c's in the area, along with some high 10's. see what the other stuff feels like, and make your rating suggestion based about the routes at that crag. consistency at the crag is more important than consistency with other places, especially at the gym.

also, since its rated 10-, i think you'd be better suggesting a 11- or 11 rating on it, since they don't appear to be using the a/b/c/d thing

God invented gyms to settle rating disputes!

....

Gyms have professionals who set routes in a controlled environment and who rate climbs as a career. Why would we not trust their judgement? Are YOU a professional climber or rater? Why then should we, as non professional climbers have the responsibility of rating routes THRUST upon us?

PS - You've been trolled, and I very well might have as well.

It's a lot of fun, it's a source of a good workout and a creative outlet for routesetters, but it sure as hell ain't a substitute for climbing real rock.

Real rock isn't even DESIGNED for climbing. Plastic holds are designed ergonomically and for climbing.


Why would I want to climb anything that's not specifically designed to be climbed?

Number one way you know your troll is too easily noticeable?

All of the replies are trolls of your post.

I know, trolling is hard work...
[image]http://www.whoateallthepies.tv/Pre-seasonlampard.jpg[/image]

Gyms have professionals who set routes in a controlled environment and who rate climbs as a career. Why would we not trust their judgement? Are YOU a professional climber or rater? Why then should we, as non professional climbers have the responsibility of rating routes THRUST upon us?

Real rock isn't even DESIGNED for climbing. Plastic holds are designed ergonomically and for climbing.


Why would I want to climb anything that's not specifically designed to be climbed?

Forgot to write anything edit

Until than stick to Supertop with all the noobs and leave the real climbers the fuck alone.

FUCK YOU condescending PRICK. You dont know SHIT about real climbing. I bet if you saw a real 5.12 you would SHIT YOUR PANTS you pondscum retard. I have been climbing for almost FIVE YEARS and not ONCE have i climbed in a gym except to go bouldering, and it is NOT nearly as good! When you can climb a route like Double Cross or Robbins Crack you can start to talk shit, but until than, shut the FUCK UP.



Serioulsy its pretentious NOOBS like you that are the fucking DEATH of this sport. someday you will forget to tie in, and fall, and probably DIE or even get HURT because you are so STUPID. GRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!


And why do you argue with all the REAL climbers here?? A simple search of the people you 'pretend' to argue with show that they climb MUCH harder than you could imagine, in some of the GREATEST climbing areas on earth. When you can go do routes in West Virginia or Texas you can say you knwo what good rock quality is. Until than stick to Supertop with all the noobs and leave the real climbers the fuck alone.

" When you can go do routes in West Virginia or Texas you can say you knwo what good rock quality is. Until than stick to Supertop with all the noobs and leave the real climbers the fuck alone.

"

My local gym is taller than anything in West Virginia and Texas put together! So STFU nOOb!

It's definitely acceptable, and even encouraged to upgrade routes.

The first step is to notify the guidebook author that he rated the route wrong, and suggest your new rating.

If you are unsure whether it's 11b or 11c, just round up. It makes everyone feel better.

The climbing community is very lucky to have climbing gyms, it is a place where we can go and become familiar with ratings so that we can then go outside and fix all the wildly varying outside ratings.

If that 5.10- feels harder than the blue 5.11b proj you're working in the gym, the rating must be wrong, and it is your duty to the climbing community to upgrade it.

Fuck the euros.


I read in an Alpinist that Alex Huber uses tick marks... commie bastard.

you have FIVE posts yet NO common sense!!!!!!!!!!

Since when did ones' post count become the merit by which we judge ones' comment?

Perhaps it has always been that way. I honestly feel it unnecessarily to point out the failures of such a system. I do, however, pity the essence of your being for even using that as a rebuttal.

Real rock isn't even DESIGNED for climbing. Plastic holds are designed ergonomically and for climbing.


Why would I want to climb anything that's not specifically designed to be climbed?

Forgot to write anything edit

So, I suppose we could sit here trolling each other all day long. Though the entertaining thing is that you dont even realize you're being trolled. Hm.. think about, go talk to your mom, and when she explains what just happened, come back and apologize for your stupidity. Or atleast relay her apology to us, God know's she owes the world one.