|
zealotnoob
Dec 13, 2007, 6:06 PM
Post #76 of 184
(4508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
joshy8200 wrote: It could be used in ultra-light alpine applications if you and your partner just always simul-rapped.
...was thinking the same thing. Either simul or rig it with a biner block.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 13, 2007, 6:06 PM
Post #77 of 184
(4508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
slapslompers wrote: i've been climbing for a few days now and i keep seeing this shit about rapping on a grigri, atc uberlite, etc... Please tell me we're talking fixed line only. Have I been living under a rock or are you ancient stonemasters onto something i don't understand?
There are tricks to doing 2-line raps with single-line devices, like the grigri, but it's hard to imagine a scenario in which I'd use them. If there is a chance I'd have to rappel, I carry an ATC; and if I carry an ATC, I don't carry a grigri. But, for the record: Attach a large locking carabiner to the center of your rope with a figure-8-on-a-bight. Set this carabiner/knot up against the anchor. Make sure that the knot won't get jammed in the anchor, and then rap the other strand of the rope using your grigri.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
slapslompers
Dec 13, 2007, 6:13 PM
Post #78 of 184
(4501 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 12
|
ah, that's really outlandish. why the hell would you ever do that, other than to show off?
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Dec 13, 2007, 6:15 PM
Post #79 of 184
(4496 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Arrogant_Bastard wrote: angry wrote: Snot wrote: Fuck the Record!! Fuck the People My balls, your chin.
Straight white male in search of bisexual female for love relationship, long walks on the beach, a good book in front of the fire, and lots and lots of anal sex. Send photo
|
|
|
|
|
slapslompers
Dec 13, 2007, 6:24 PM
Post #80 of 184
(4480 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 12
|
I think I'm going to buy one and hang it from my harness and never use it, just so elitist climbing snobs will leave me alone while i diddle around shirtless in my manpris on some 10d.
(This post was edited by slapslompers on Dec 13, 2007, 6:30 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Dec 13, 2007, 6:52 PM
Post #81 of 184
(4452 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
slapslompers wrote: ah, that's really outlandish. why the hell would you ever do that, other than to show off?
Because you're working with the tools you have, and it's good to have a deep bag of tricks even if some of them are more convoluted than others?
|
|
|
|
|
slapslompers
Dec 13, 2007, 7:02 PM
Post #82 of 184
(4436 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 12
|
agreed, but i'm far stretched to see a situation where that would be prudent, much less necessary.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Dec 13, 2007, 7:04 PM
Post #83 of 184
(4432 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
markc wrote: slapslompers wrote: ah, that's really outlandish. why the hell would you ever do that, other than to show off? Because you're working with the tools you have, and it's good to have a deep bag of tricks even if some of them are more convoluted than others?
Also, it impresses the ladies.
Honestly -- "show off"? -- you must be very easily impressed.
|
|
|
|
|
slapslompers
Dec 13, 2007, 7:09 PM
Post #84 of 184
(4425 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 12
|
i boulder. of course i'm easily impressed. i also smell my climbing shoes. and drink beer around a fire at night.
what's wrong with the simple pleasures? seeing some guy double-line rap on a grigri or the ultra new, high-speed low drag, atcuberlite xtreem would impress me. it's kind of ingenious.
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Dec 13, 2007, 7:10 PM
Post #85 of 184
(4420 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Some alpinists use an ultra-light lead rope coupled with a thin retrieval line, rigged in this "biner block" config, for rappels. They rap the blocked single lead rope and pull the thin retrieval line. If that's your style then this ATC could be attractive.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 13, 2007, 7:13 PM
Post #86 of 184
(4413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
zealotnoob wrote: Some alpinists use an ultra-light lead rope coupled with a thin retrieval line, rigged in this "biner block" config, for rappels. They rap the blocked single lead rope and pull the thin retrieval line. If that's your style then this ATC could be attractive.
So, do you think it would be smart to carry a belay device that left you no other rappel option?
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Dec 13, 2007, 7:15 PM
Post #87 of 184
(4402 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Nope...not my style.
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Dec 13, 2007, 7:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Dec 13, 2007, 7:19 PM
Post #88 of 184
(4391 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Keep in mind, these are the same alpinists who consider severe dehydration as a valid "fast and light" technique.
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Dec 13, 2007, 7:31 PM
Post #89 of 184
(4375 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
jt512 wrote: zealotnoob wrote: Some alpinists use an ultra-light lead rope coupled with a thin retrieval line, rigged in this "biner block" config, for rappels. They rap the blocked single lead rope and pull the thin retrieval line. If that's your style then this ATC could be attractive. So, do you think it would be smart to carry a belay device that left you no other rappel option? Jay
Dude, you don't get it. I carry two of these. This way, it's both ultra-light and redundant.
|
|
|
|
|
kenculen
Dec 13, 2007, 8:32 PM
Post #90 of 184
(4332 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2006
Posts: 9
|
New gear is always a great idea! Besides, if you need to do a double rope rappel, just use two devices.
|
|
|
|
|
diebetes
Dec 13, 2007, 9:07 PM
Post #91 of 184
(4316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 106
|
jt512 wrote: diebetes wrote: Secondly, people thought the automobile was obnoxious when it was first developed, but I bet you all have licenses now. Holy shit. Why didn't I think of that? The ATC-Sport is to climbing as the automobile was to transportation! My God, it's so obvious now! In reply to: What I'm saying is you never know what might come from this design. Sure I do. The same thing that came from the single-slot belay devices that briefly appeared 25 years ago. Jay
I can't recall a single post in which you've said something profound or helpful. I expect the response to this to be the same sophomoric defense mechanism type reply that you seem to favor. Nobody thinks you're a loser, come out of your shell. High school has been over for a while now.
I never said that this new belay device : belaying :: automobiles : transportation. Stop using logical fallacies for arguments and actually respond to my comments please.
|
|
|
|
|
andrewbanandrew
Dec 13, 2007, 9:07 PM
Post #92 of 184
(4315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 441
|
oh I just thought of another usage possibility
you and your partner both get one, and the first guy raps with both of em and then ties them to the rope then the second guy pulls the rope up to retrieve both and raps down
it would work pretty well am i right?
|
|
|
|
|
diebetes
Dec 13, 2007, 9:08 PM
Post #93 of 184
(4314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 106
|
Arrogant_Bastard wrote: diebetes wrote: First of all, it's surprising to me how many of you are acting like you know what you're talking about, but you don't even know that it IS possible to rap with that device (same as with a grigri, as another mentioned). Secondly, people thought the automobile was obnoxious when it was first developed, but I bet you all have licenses now. What I'm saying is you never know what might come from this design. Right now, yeah, I don't see the usefulness of this device, but I'm not spending time hating the thing. It is, whether you validate its existence or not. This is not your imagination. People in marketing must blow a load when they meet someone as naivelike you. "I love it, I'll take five!"
You really are an arrogant bastard. See bold text above.
|
|
|
|
|
diebetes
Dec 13, 2007, 9:14 PM
Post #94 of 184
(4304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 106
|
slapslompers wrote: i've been climbing for a few days now and i keep seeing this shit about rapping on a grigri, atc uberlite, etc... Please tell me we're talking fixed line only. Have I been living under a rock or are you ancient stonemasters onto something i don't understand?
Bingo. It's too long to explain, and I think this is a troll anyways.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Dec 13, 2007, 9:28 PM
Post #95 of 184
(4291 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
diebetes wrote: slapslompers wrote: i've been climbing for a few days now and i keep seeing this shit about rapping on a grigri, atc uberlite, etc... Please tell me we're talking fixed line only. Have I been living under a rock or are you ancient stonemasters onto something i don't understand?Bingo. It's too long to explain, and I think this is a troll anyways.
The guy you just claimed never makes a helpful comment explained one method fairly succinctly above. Here's the specific link since you overlooked it:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1759679#1759679
Cheers.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 13, 2007, 9:49 PM
Post #96 of 184
(4271 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
diebetes wrote: jt512 wrote: diebetes wrote: Secondly, people thought the automobile was obnoxious when it was first developed, but I bet you all have licenses now. Holy shit. Why didn't I think of that? The ATC-Sport is to climbing as the automobile was to transportation! My God, it's so obvious now! In reply to: What I'm saying is you never know what might come from this design. Sure I do. The same thing that came from the single-slot belay devices that briefly appeared 25 years ago. Jay I can't recall a single post in which you've said something profound or helpful.
Based on your post about automobiles and belay devices, I can see why you might have difficulty recognizing posts that are profound or helpful.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
slapslompers
Dec 13, 2007, 9:51 PM
Post #97 of 184
(4269 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 12
|
i think its funny that everyone on all of these forums is constantly chomping at the bit to tear someone a new asshole,or if not, at least lightly insult them for being less.... frequent? (i suppose that's most accurate). I asked a genuine question and as mark c pointed out, i got an excellent answer. so perhaps you are the troller here diebetes.
|
|
|
|
|
diebetes
Dec 13, 2007, 10:24 PM
Post #98 of 184
(4238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 106
|
slapslompers wrote: i think its funny that everyone on all of these forums is constantly chomping at the bit to tear someone a new asshole,or if not, at least lightly insult them for being less.... frequent? (i suppose that's most accurate). I asked a genuine question and as mark c pointed out, i got an excellent answer. so perhaps you are the troller here diebetes.
Well I explained this in another thread, and didn't feel like doing it again. Plus you're a boulderer. If you think I'm the one who is usually tearing people new assholes, you're not well read at RC.com.
p.s. one career homerun doesn't make somebody mlb hall of fame worthy. He's still overwhelmingly negative/sarcastic. And before you start, it doesn't matter to me how I look by bringing this up. I try to help the community best I can, and if I take a hit in the process, so be it.
Edited to add that I change my statement: I've seen him be helpful on one occasion. BUUUUT this is not the first time rapping with a single-rope device has been discussed, so it's a hollow victory. Actually, if I read it right, his advice wasn't helpful, but possibly dangerous (I don't remember him saying to clip the carabiner to the rope that you're rapping on, to make the chances of the rope pulling through the anchor slimmer. Maybe he did though, and I'm sure somebody will correct me)
(This post was edited by diebetes on Dec 13, 2007, 10:34 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
tuna
Dec 13, 2007, 10:25 PM
Post #99 of 184
(4236 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2004
Posts: 188
|
J_ung is right about replacing any type of belay device
I think I could maybe find my first one from 1991 and still use it to this day but the little wire loop has a frayed cable and it pokes me in the hand.
So replacing belay devices for most people is just to have the new and so called best thing out there
I do imagine some climbers in Utah that climb those awesome towers ( I wish I was one of them) need to replace theirs more often just from the dirt and debry that gets hung up in the rope. This would cause a more dramatic wear on the device.
ciao
Santana
|
|
|
|
|
diebetes
Dec 13, 2007, 10:45 PM
Post #100 of 184
(4223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 106
|
jt512 wrote: diebetes wrote: jt512 wrote: diebetes wrote: Secondly, people thought the automobile was obnoxious when it was first developed, but I bet you all have licenses now. Holy shit. Why didn't I think of that? The ATC-Sport is to climbing as the automobile was to transportation! My God, it's so obvious now! In reply to: What I'm saying is you never know what might come from this design. Sure I do. The same thing that came from the single-slot belay devices that briefly appeared 25 years ago. Jay I can't recall a single post in which you've said something profound or helpful. Based on your post about automobiles and belay devices, I can see why you might have difficulty recognizing posts that are profound or helpful. Jay
You're judging me based on the fact that I don't agree with stalling progress and innovation?
You remind me of people I knew growing up who would say shit like "Dude, you like art class? Art is so gay". You can give your opinion without making a joke directed at somebody all the time, that's all I'm trying to say. If you read your posts in this thread, many of them have these sarcastic little comments that makes me want to hit you in the face with a number 4 camalot. What's wrong with the comparison between automobiles and belay devices? Did you miss the obvious point I was making that sometimes innovative ideas are hard to recognize at first? Did I say that the first Benz and the new atc function very similar? What the fuck is your point even? Do you know what metaphors and similes are? What's an analogy? Or are metaphors and analogies gay...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
