|
angry
Jan 4, 2008, 4:18 AM
Post #26 of 62
(3639 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
LSFTMFW
|
|
|
|
|
shivaBD
Jan 4, 2008, 6:05 AM
Post #27 of 62
(3586 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2008
Posts: 6
|
you really climb A3+?? Because if so do you want to guide me up P.O wall
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
Jan 4, 2008, 7:39 PM
Post #29 of 62
(3495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
I once heard the following:
leading A5=hellish terror
belaying A5=hellish boredom
Kids have a short attention span.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 4, 2008, 8:15 PM
Post #30 of 62
(3469 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
"lame sauce for the mother fucking win?"
"lick sack for the mother fucking win?"
"lamp stand for the mother fucking win?"
|
|
|
|
|
paintrain
Jan 4, 2008, 11:24 PM
Post #31 of 62
(3372 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 184
|
gunksgoer wrote: churningindawake wrote: I can climb 5.13 trad and it does not scare me a bit. In truth, trad climbing feels safer than sport climbing to me, because if you feel you are about to fall, you can throw in some gear, and continue climbing. You've obviously never been on anything but a G rated route. Go to tuolumne and tell me that the old school 5.9 - 5.11 routes feel easy and safe. Ever heard of the Bachar - Yerian?
Bachar-yerian is a sport climb. Its bolted, duh.
If the kid is 13 give him a break. He will probably be mocking your climbing abilities next year as he has sponsors paying him 100s of thousands of dollars to ink their logo on his calf.
If he isn't 13 and trolling, you guys are choking on the hook.
PT
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Jan 4, 2008, 11:38 PM
Post #32 of 62
(3361 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
camhead wrote: "lame sauce for the mother fucking win?" "lick sack for the mother fucking win?" "lamp stand for the mother fucking win?"
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Jan 7, 2008, 8:30 PM
Post #33 of 62
(3237 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
camhead wrote: "lame sauce for the mother fucking win?" "lick sack for the mother fucking win?" "lamp stand for the mother fucking win?"
"lip stick for the massive fucking wanker"
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
Jan 7, 2008, 8:44 PM
Post #34 of 62
(3233 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb.
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 8:58 PM
Post #35 of 62
(3220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb.
That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there?
|
|
|
|
|
randomtask
Jan 7, 2008, 9:09 PM
Post #36 of 62
(3203 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 106
|
Ground up vs. Top down, IMO.
-JR
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jan 7, 2008, 9:27 PM
Post #37 of 62
(3188 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
randomtask wrote: Ground up vs. Top down, IMO. -JR
I understand the sentiment behind your definition, but -- and I mean this in the friendliest way -- it's wrong, or at least incomplete. By your definition, a route with a bolt every meter, but drilled entirely on lead, would be a trad route. Likewise, a route cleaned, rehearsed and anchor equipped on rappel/TR, but with only cam and stopper placements to protect the lead, would be a sport route.
Even if you're speaking more about subsequent ascents and not the FA, I still think it's incorrect. Sure the definitions of sport and trad routes have some subjectivity to them, but not that much subjectivity!
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 7, 2008, 9:31 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jan 7, 2008, 9:43 PM
Post #38 of 62
(3173 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
knieveltech wrote: punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb. That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there?
the point at which you see people hangdogging, ticking, and "rehearsing" moves.
that is why I said that Ruby's cafe is a sport climb. If anyone here has onsighted it, I apologize.
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 9:53 PM
Post #39 of 62
(3153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
camhead wrote: knieveltech wrote: punk_rocker333 wrote: Bachar-Yerian a Sport Climb? Just because a climb has bolts doesn't make it a sport climb. That brings up a potentially interesting question; if a route is only protected by bolts at what point is it considered a sport climb? Where's the line there? the point at which you see people hangdogging, ticking, and "rehearsing" moves. that is why I said that Ruby's cafe is a sport climb. If anyone here has onsighted it, I apologize.
I dig what you're saying, but I'm still not sure that this really draws a solid line. For example, I think everyone would agree that all of the purely bolted lines at the NRG are sport routes, independent upon the style with which folks usually climb them. In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes.
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
Jan 7, 2008, 10:01 PM
Post #40 of 62
(3138 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
For me it is the distance between bolts and my personal confidence at the grade. If it is a challenging grade and the bolts are more than a couple body lengths apart, I wouldn't consider it a sport climb as falling is not usually safe and I can't "practice" the climb in a sport-like manner. In the end it doesn't really matter what the difference between "sport" and "trad" with a few bolts is. I usually ignore these terms and call it either gear climbing (because a cam isn't really traditional in my opinion) or clipping bolts (where I differentiate by how run out it is). "The Line" is merely a point of discussion for internet forums and is of no use in a real climbing situation.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jan 7, 2008, 10:11 PM
Post #41 of 62
(3127 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
gunksgoer wrote: And since when can people lead harder aid than they can follow?
Jugging is A0?
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Jan 7, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #42 of 62
(3117 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
punk_rocker333 wrote: For me it is the distance between bolts and my personal confidence at the grade. If it is a challenging grade and the bolts are more than a couple body lengths apart, I wouldn't consider it a sport climb as falling is not usually safe and I can't "practice" the climb in a sport-like manner. In the end it doesn't really matter what the difference between "sport" and "trad" with a few bolts is. I usually ignore these terms and call it either gear climbing (because a cam isn't really traditional in my opinion) or clipping bolts (where I differentiate by how run out it is). "The Line" is merely a point of discussion for internet forums and is of no use in a real climbing situation.
Fair enough, but for those of us routinely stuck in a cube for 8+ hours a day this kind of navel gazing offers a welcome distraction.
|
|
|
|
|
paintrain
Jan 7, 2008, 10:58 PM
Post #43 of 62
(3089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 184
|
Vertical/Overhanging + no natural pro + Bolts = Sport climb.
They were early pioneers of sport climbing. Its just run out.
PT
|
|
|
|
|
paintrain
Jan 7, 2008, 11:21 PM
Post #45 of 62
(3058 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 184
|
Oh yeah. They used hooks on lead to drill.
Sport climb. A Sporty sport climb to boot.
PT
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Jan 8, 2008, 12:31 AM
Post #46 of 62
(3010 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
WB
if you are into trad climbing then climb w/ many trad climbers. you will learn lots for the trade of tradition. there are trad climb where there is Not much for gear.
also as you can figure out most of the wankers on here have a star next the profile name and over 2000 posts. ask angry how to hang dog up a 5.10 in the black canyon
|
|
|
|
|
churningindawake
Jan 8, 2008, 12:58 AM
Post #47 of 62
(2995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 5292
|
I usually trad climb not sport climb. My definition of trad climbing is when you use cams to place in cracks, or natural slots, and put stopper placements in the crack, not clip bolts. And i dont usually do first ascents, so i dont rap off routes. My dad can't climb as hard as i can, so i climb the route, clean the anchor, or walk off, and he lowers me. I don't see where you people think my defintion of trad is clipping bolts
Weird............  
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
Jan 8, 2008, 1:34 AM
Post #48 of 62
(2977 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
I feel your pain. A 20 credit, two pt job semester starts day after tomorrow. Then I'll wish I even had the time to debate about the difference between sport and trad.
And oh yeah, to the OP, your thread has morphed into something beyond your arrogant assertions about your climbing ability.
|
|
|
|
|
austin.timm
Jan 8, 2008, 1:44 AM
Post #49 of 62
(2966 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2007
Posts: 96
|
In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes.
i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport.
|
|
|
|
|
knieveltech
Jan 8, 2008, 1:56 AM
Post #50 of 62
(2962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
|
austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport.
No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
