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j_ung
Jan 8, 2008, 3:52 PM
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knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon.
It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to.
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knieveltech
Jan 8, 2008, 4:16 PM
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j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to.
Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted.
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stymingersfink
Jan 8, 2008, 11:25 PM
Post #53 of 62
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knieveltech wrote: j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to. Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted.
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knieveltech
Jan 9, 2008, 3:29 AM
Post #54 of 62
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stymingersfink wrote: knieveltech wrote: j_ung wrote: knieveltech wrote: austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport. No fucking way that's sport. 50' of hard unprotected slab? On lead I'd shit my pants, weep piteously, and bail without even leaving the anchor. Props to those with the sack to get on lines like that, I ain't one of em and I don't see that changing any time soon. It'd be a damn shame if you never made it out there. It's amazing what you can get used to. Hopefully one of these days I'll have my headspace sorted. well, if you had 75' of 5.8 slab, a bolt, then a .10a move followed by another 50' of 5.6 slab, a bolt followed by a 5.9 slab move, then the anchor... you think you could wrap your head around that?
With my lead head (or lack thereof) as it stands now, definitely not. I hate it too because my headspace is keeping me from doing a lot of things. It's slowly improving though. I'm hoping that spending the next couple months almost exclusively route climbing will help.
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iceworm
Jan 9, 2008, 4:24 AM
Post #55 of 62
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dude guys, this kid's nothing....i can climb 5.15 trad with my eyes closed but don't quite know what shoes to use before i go and try 5.16. also i like 200 mile bike rides! basically, i'm the shit so who wants to sponsor me?
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piton
Jan 9, 2008, 2:04 PM
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so once you get more into trad, you will learn everything is not so straight forward as Indian Creek cracks. So if you have any technical questions gear placement building anchors, forces ask rgold
Rich is a genius.
Also about certain areas or techniques of climbing esp. offwidth Jaybro is your go to guy for questions
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churningindawake
Jan 9, 2008, 11:42 PM
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I've read both the climbing anchors books by john long, and before i started climbing how to rock climb. my dad and i's climbing friend is also a good trad climber, so thats how i learned to climb trad. I have done 100 mile road bike rides such as summit to surf, reach the beach, and the blackberry bramble
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armsrforclimbing
Jan 10, 2008, 4:38 PM
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I'd like to put this as gently as possible, and I am well aware that I am walking on a minefield. I have been climbing for years, and honestly never even realized the definition of sport was up for interpretation. It seems to me that a purely bolted line is a sport climb if there is no natural pro available. Lose the bolts than it is a trad climb. A hard route with 50 ft. of runout between bolts is a far less "sporty" sport route but the bolts would make it a sport climb. I have always understood that the description of the climbing discipline referred to the type of pro you would encounter.
That being said I suppose that some degrees of the "sport" description are in order. The Stone Mountain climbs that austin.timm mentions might not be your average sport routes, but are they trad? Seems to me its up for the locals to decide that one.
If I had to recommend those routes to someone, I probably wouldnt say that they are 150' sport routes. I would more likely say that they are runout scary grunt fests with only 2 bolts, so bring your lead head.
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 10, 2008, 8:24 PM
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j_ung wrote: churningindawake wrote: I've read both the climbing anchors books by john long, and before i started climbing how to rock climb. my dad and i's climbing friend is also a good trad climber, so thats how i learned to climb trad. I have done 100 mile road bike rides such as summit to surf, reach the beach, and the blackberry bramble Ask him what "spray" means. 
Fuel to the fire that he is in fact a teenager.
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wallmonkey35
Jan 10, 2008, 8:50 PM
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austin.timm wrote: In reply to: In contrast, as far as I know there are several purely bolted lines at Stone Mountain in NC that nobody considers to be sport routes. i've made a few trips to stone in the past month, one of which was two days ago and we are going again tomorrow. that is definately not an exageration. a 'bolted' line is not nescessarily a 'sport' line.... unless you consider two bolts amongst a 150' pitch of 5.10a slab to be sport.
Yep....Sure do. As mentioned above, not a very "sporty" sport climb, but a sport climb none the less.
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It's all in the smirk on your face when describing said line.
