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majid_sabet
Feb 25, 2008, 10:25 PM
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What do you know about this ? [URL=http://imageshack.us]
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shockabuku
Feb 25, 2008, 10:26 PM
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1000 words.
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onceahardman
Feb 25, 2008, 10:37 PM
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Four bolts. Too close together. I didn't measure, but I seem to recall that bolts should not be placed within 10 bolt diameters of each other. Looks pretty close. Also, the bolts are placed next to a bomber nut crack. I assume you are asking about the black *extender thingys*...I don't know anything about that. Do you?
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Valarc
Feb 25, 2008, 10:40 PM
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This oughtta be good... My guess: boy scout troupe practicing their knots :-D
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onceahardman
Feb 25, 2008, 10:48 PM
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In reply to: If you look closely, the two main ropes are each attached to the power points by a cord tied around the rope in a prussik, looped thru the biner, then prussik'd onto the rope again. OK. Thanks. well it looks like if the prussiks failed, the load would be taken up by ? Can you tell what the coil of black rope is attached to? It doesn't look like its into all of the bolts
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zeke_sf
Feb 25, 2008, 11:04 PM
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It's really not hard, taking the tags out of the photos. I'm not even going to try and underhend what Majid is trying to ask us....
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photoguy190
Feb 25, 2008, 11:11 PM
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I would say some sorta zip line or high line, non tensioning side of course. I'm leaning toward a zip line cause there are no tag lines or haul lines.
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dudemanbu
Feb 25, 2008, 11:28 PM
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Bomber.
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majid_sabet
Feb 25, 2008, 11:34 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: If you look closely, the two main ropes are each attached to the power points by a cord tied around the rope in a prussik, looped thru the biner, then prussik'd onto the rope again. OK. Thanks. well it looks like if the prussiks failed, the load would be taken up by ? Can you tell what the coil of black rope is attached to? It doesn't look like its into all of the bolts Let me help you boys out before you confuse yourself on this rig This image came from climbing magazine on-line and it is for a highline. The two prussic are there as a tension overload indicators. At 8 kn each prussic will slip. There are four prussic there, two on each rope. At 16 kn of tension per rope, prussic starts to slip which tell the guys on the other side that they are overloading the MA system and they should stop putting tension on the main line. If you do not put the prussic there,you do not know how much you are pulling and when to stop on your MA.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 25, 2008, 11:36 PM)
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cintune
Feb 25, 2008, 11:43 PM
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So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what?
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 12:08 AM
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cintune wrote: So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what? Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything.
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cintune
Feb 26, 2008, 12:15 AM
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How did they determine that the slippage occurred at 8Kn? Could you maybe link to the actual article now?
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binrat
Feb 26, 2008, 12:18 AM
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MS: Then that is not a kootenay highline then now is it. binrat
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 1:03 AM
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Check the climbing magazine web, the image came from there.It says tyrolean .
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cintune
Feb 26, 2008, 1:32 AM
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Looks like they've got those prussiks rigged on both sides. Also appears to be a two-line zip/tyrolean to get across the Gunnison down in the canyon, not a highline.
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Carnage
Feb 26, 2008, 1:51 AM
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i feel like majid would have made a post to the extent of "you noobs are going to get yourselves killed" if he didnt know this had been designed by professionals.
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trenchdigger
Feb 26, 2008, 3:11 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: cintune wrote: So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what? Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything. Why do you think this belongs in a rock climbing forum? And if you're pre-tensioning a highline system until your double prusiks begin to slip, you're doing something seriously wrong. Why don't you take your SAR BS to the MRA forum? Or maybe Firehouse.com? Save RC.com for climbing related BS.
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timd
Feb 26, 2008, 3:57 AM
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Majid, diagrams please.
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deltav
Feb 26, 2008, 4:07 AM
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This is a similar set up to a high line. The difference being that there is usually a MA of some sort to tension the system. The prussiks are there so if the system is over tensioned or overloaded then it will self adjust instead of completely failing. Prussiks slip at 7kn btw.
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 4:55 AM
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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 26, 2008, 9:12 AM)
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tradrenn
Feb 26, 2008, 5:36 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: trenchdigger wrote: majid_sabet wrote: cintune wrote: So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what? Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything. Why do you think this belongs in a rock climbing forum? And if you're pre-tensioning a highline system until your double prusiks begin to slip, you're doing something seriously wrong. Why don't you take your SAR BS to the MRA forum? Or maybe Firehouse.com? Save RC.com for climbing related BS. So what are you, the VP of RC or something ? Shut up and take notes you wanabee n00ber He is way more useful then you are with your BS.
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 6:05 AM
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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 26, 2008, 9:13 AM)
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tradrenn
Feb 26, 2008, 6:16 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: tradrenn wrote: majid_sabet wrote: trenchdigger wrote: majid_sabet wrote: cintune wrote: So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what? Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything. Why do you think this belongs in a rock climbing forum? And if you're pre-tensioning a highline system until your double prusiks begin to slip, you're doing something seriously wrong. Why don't you take your SAR BS to the MRA forum? Or maybe Firehouse.com? Save RC.com for climbing related BS. So what are you, the VP of RC or something ? Shut up and take notes you wanabee n00ber He is way more useful then you are with your BS. For ladies like you who can't tell different between fig 8 knot a butterfly knot, sure he is much better than me but do not forget,you always be my bitch. I don't need to prove shit to you boy. I fixed the spelling of bitch for you, you MORON. You're welcome.
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timd
Feb 26, 2008, 12:29 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: timd wrote: Majid, diagrams please. Sure How about these ? [URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/4515/p1010107jq5.jpg[/IMG] [URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7456/p1010115yo0.jpg[/IMG] That's it!! great job dude
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socalclimber
Feb 26, 2008, 1:50 PM
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This technique is also used in tech. rescue to determine if a guiding line is being over tensioned during a lowering operation.
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binrat
Feb 26, 2008, 2:25 PM
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socalclimber wrote: This technique is also used in tech. rescue to determine if a guiding line is being over tensioned during a lowering operation. Over tensioning of a guiding line? Everything that I've read and seen the guiding line is used to deflect the litter slightly off the fall line, side to side or back and forth. This does not require a system like that or is this the bigger is better theory? Binrat
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socalclimber
Feb 26, 2008, 2:45 PM
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Guiding lines utilize a 3:1 pully system at the bottom staffed with 2 to 3 people. This is the reason the system could potentialy be over tensioned. It's a barometer if you will, for the safety to determine if to much tension is being applied to the system. Basicly if the prussic slips, the system is being over tentioned.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Feb 26, 2008, 3:16 PM)
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binrat
Feb 26, 2008, 3:22 PM
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socalclimber wrote: Guiding lines utilize a 3:1 pully system at the bottom staffed with 2 to 3 people. This is the reason the system could potentialy be over tensioned. It's a barometer if you will, for the safety to determine if to much tension is being applied to the system. Yes, I agree but either I was not clear or something. The use of TP for a guiding line is overkill. This is to be a line not taking the full weight of the load but partial for the movement of the load off the fall line. Most people use 2 prussiks for a 3:1MA, 1 being a rachet and other a travelling one where the pulley is attached to make the MA. If something goes wrong the rachet P will take the load.
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robbovius
Feb 26, 2008, 3:28 PM
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damn! when I read the title I was sure we'd be seeing bikini pics of somebody's hot wife...
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binrat
Feb 26, 2008, 3:32 PM
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Hey, now thats an anchor that I would like to see
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 5:47 PM
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socalclimber wrote: This technique is also used in tech. rescue to determine if a guiding line is being over tensioned during a lowering operation. Now you got my attention. What do you mean "during lowering" ?
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socalclimber
Feb 26, 2008, 7:18 PM
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I think you are missing something. The prussic is attached to the "up hill" end of the rope, not the 3:1. About a foot to 2 feet of rope is left hanging just like you saw in the initial picture. It's there to act as a gauge. If the rope starts to slip through the prussic, then too much force is be applied to the guiding line. Maybe we could get Majid to post up some pics with arrows and what not to describe the system. All in all, it'a great idea.
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cintune
Feb 26, 2008, 7:41 PM
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"South Anchor" "North Anchor" There doesn't seem to be any pulley system involved at all. So what's up with that?
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g_i_g_i
Feb 26, 2008, 8:25 PM
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In reply to: There doesn't seem to be any pulley system involved at all. So what's up with that? My impression is that the rig allows both independent lines to be re-tensioned by hand, in case they are too loose, without requiring any fixed hardware. It's just a traverse, the lines are static, I don't think they need to be tensioned too much, definitely not to the point of the knots slipping for over-tensioning.
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cintune
Feb 26, 2008, 8:41 PM
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http://www.climbing.com/news/press/saferblack/ "This May, Rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the Tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls. This important Tyrolean allows access to the south side from the Cruise Gully and has been an integral part of many link-up ascents, and saved countless climbers from being stranded on the south side of the canyon -- a two - hour drive from the North Rim Campground, the traditional staging area for ascents in the Black."
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g_i_g_i
Feb 26, 2008, 8:48 PM
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cintune wrote: http://www.climbing.com/news/press/saferblack/ "This May, Rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the Tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls. This important Tyrolean allows access to the south side from the Cruise Gully and has been an integral part of many link-up ascents, and saved countless climbers from being stranded on the south side of the canyon -- a two - hour drive from the North Rim Campground, the traditional staging area for ascents in the Black." I read the article, but there are no technical details accompanying the pictures, so that was my impression. The OP's idea, which I think is wrong, is that the prusicks are there to avoid overtensioning.
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cintune
Feb 26, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Yes. Though prusiks might possibly be used as some kind of fail-safe indicator, it's clearly not the case here. Sure glad we got that cleared up.
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gunkiemike
Feb 26, 2008, 9:45 PM
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cintune wrote: Yes. Though prusiks might possibly be used as some kind of fail-safe indicator, it's clearly not the case here. Sure glad we got that cleared up. nb - No one has yet offered support for the assertion that a prusik knot can be assigned a slipping load value with any certainty. It is clear to me that cord diameter, rope diameter, cord stiffness, rope sheath texture, and number of wraps all have an effect on slipping load. While these anchors look elegant, the lack of MA at either end makes re-tensioning it a few weeks/months down the road a non-trivial matter. But I guess I'd be happy to see the tyro there if I had to get across the river. I can think of a few spots around here where that might be a nice installation.
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binrat
Feb 26, 2008, 10:10 PM
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gunkiemike: around 7 to 9 Kn for the tandem prussiks to slip. binrat
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majid_sabet
Feb 26, 2008, 10:59 PM
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g_i_g_i wrote: cintune wrote: http://www.climbing.com/news/press/saferblack/ "This May, Rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the Tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls. This important Tyrolean allows access to the south side from the Cruise Gully and has been an integral part of many link-up ascents, and saved countless climbers from being stranded on the south side of the canyon -- a two - hour drive from the North Rim Campground, the traditional staging area for ascents in the Black." I read the article, but there are no technical details accompanying the pictures, so that was my impression. The OP's idea, which I think is wrong, is that the prusicks are there to avoid overtensioning. No, The prusik are there as an overtensioning indicators. I also posted another impage with 4 lines going a cross a river with pullies and 8 prusik.That came from a recent training.
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g_i_g_i
Feb 26, 2008, 11:05 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: g_i_g_i wrote: cintune wrote: http://www.climbing.com/news/press/saferblack/ "This May, Rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the Tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls. This important Tyrolean allows access to the south side from the Cruise Gully and has been an integral part of many link-up ascents, and saved countless climbers from being stranded on the south side of the canyon -- a two - hour drive from the North Rim Campground, the traditional staging area for ascents in the Black." I read the article, but there are no technical details accompanying the pictures, so that was my impression. The OP's idea, which I think is wrong, is that the prusicks are there to avoid overtensioning. No, The prusik are there as an overtensioning indicators. I also posted another impage with 4 lines going a cross a river with pullies and 8 prusik.That came from a recent training. Have it your way, man, but I think you're wrong, and I already explained why.
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socalclimber
Feb 27, 2008, 2:14 AM
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"Have it your way, man, but I think you're wrong, and I already explained why. " Well that's all fine and dandy, but it's clear you do not understand the concept, especialy when it is in regads to rescue work. Majid: Maybe I was a bit too specific, but the system can well be used for raising as well. Am I missing something else, some other use for the guiding line?
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majid_sabet
Feb 27, 2008, 5:53 AM
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socalclimber wrote: "Have it your way, man, but I think you're wrong, and I already explained why. " Well that's all fine and dandy, but it's clear you do not understand the concept, especialy when it is in regads to rescue work. Majid: Maybe I was a bit too specific, but the system can well be used for raising as well. Am I missing something else, some other use for the guiding line? No for raising this is a perfect system but when you said lowering, I was scratching my head trying to figure out the application. gi gi The prusik in these type of rig does only one thing and that is to indicate when you are redlining your system by over tensioning. If you do not have rigging background, this sort of things makes no sense to you.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 27, 2008, 5:55 AM)
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socalclimber
Feb 27, 2008, 12:53 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: socalclimber wrote: "Have it your way, man, but I think you're wrong, and I already explained why. " Well that's all fine and dandy, but it's clear you do not understand the concept, especialy when it is in regads to rescue work. Majid: Maybe I was a bit too specific, but the system can well be used for raising as well. Am I missing something else, some other use for the guiding line? No for raising this is a perfect system but when you said lowering, I was scratching my head trying to figure out the application. gi gi The prusik in these type of rig does only one thing and that is to indicate when you are redlining your system by over tensioning. If you do not have rigging background, this sort of things makes no sense to you. When I did rescue in the park down here, we used guiding lines for lowering as well. It works great when you need to maneuver the litter over talus fields etc. Robert
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shockabuku
Feb 27, 2008, 1:40 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: While these anchors look elegant, the lack of MA at either end makes re-tensioning it a few weeks/months down the road a non-trivial matter. I would think you would just establish another anchor and tension it through the prusik. The prusik holds the load, so you disconnect. Shouldn't be hard as long as the system hasn't loosened completely to the point where there is no slack left in the tensioned line to work with, no?
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g_i_g_i
Feb 27, 2008, 4:34 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: socalclimber wrote: "Have it your way, man, but I think you're wrong, and I already explained why. " Well that's all fine and dandy, but it's clear you do not understand the concept, especialy when it is in regads to rescue work. Majid: Maybe I was a bit too specific, but the system can well be used for raising as well. Am I missing something else, some other use for the guiding line? No for raising this is a perfect system but when you said lowering, I was scratching my head trying to figure out the application. gi gi The prusik in these type of rig does only one thing and that is to indicate when you are redlining your system by over tensioning. If you do not have rigging background, this sort of things makes no sense to you. With all the respect, socalclimber, I understand the concept quite well, it's not that hard to grasp, I just think that in this case the MAIN purpose of the prusiks is not to prevent overtensioning the lines, but allow for easy re-tensioning by whoever needs to use the lines and finds them a little too loose. Majid, what do you know about my background, and what does or does not make sense to me?
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socalclimber
Feb 27, 2008, 4:44 PM
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With all due respect, you do not understand the concept. It has nothing to do with re-tensioning anything. IT'S AN INDICATOR IF THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED OR NOT. JUST LIKE THE OIL LIGHT ON YOUR CAR. IF IT COMES ON, YOUR LOW ON OIL. IN THIS CASE IF THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED, THEN THE LOOP IN THE ROPE WILL START TO SLIP, THEREFORE, THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED. IF ANYONE IS USING THIS TYPE OF SETUP TO RE-TENSION A SYSTEM, THEN THEIR IDIOTS! My god, I've stated this multiple times on this thread, Majid made the same statement. What part are you not clear on?
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g_i_g_i
Feb 27, 2008, 5:24 PM
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socalclimber wrote: With all due respect, you do not understand the concept. It has nothing to do with re-tensioning anything. IT'S AN INDICATOR IF THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED OR NOT. JUST LIKE THE OIL LIGHT ON YOUR CAR. IF IT COMES ON, YOUR LOW ON OIL. IN THIS CASE IF THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED, THEN THE LOOP IN THE ROPE WILL START TO SLIP, THEREFORE, THE SYSTEM IS BEING OVER TENSIONED. IF ANYONE IS USING THIS TYPE OF SETUP TO RE-TENSION A SYSTEM, THEN THEIR IDIOTS! My god, I've stated this multiple times on this thread, Majid made the same statement. What part are you not clear on? So, we have this fixed tyrolean traverse that is permanently mounted there to avoid long hikes back to the campground. I am a climber who's just topped out, and I want to use the line(s) to cross the canyon. When I get to the anchor, I notice that overtime the lines have loosened a bit. Well, I don't want to have to ascend the line when I get to the other side, so I think I'll just retension it. The line is hanging by the prusiks, so it's easy to just retension it without having to rig anything really, just pulling it through. I guess that according to your standards I am an idiot. (or rather "my idiot"). If I really want the line to be extra taut, I can rig a tensioning system, then block the line with the prusiks, take my material and cross, knowing that on the other side there is a similar (but unsupervised) anchor, so, unless there is no slack on the other side, I am not overtensioning. But why would I want to waste time to have the line extra tensioned when my only goal is to cross the canyon, and I don't need a super tensioned line to do that? And what if I don't notice that there is no slack on the unsupervised side, and by mistake I overtension the line? So please stop telling me that I don't understand, and if you think of a different way this system should be used, explain it.
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binrat
Feb 27, 2008, 5:49 PM
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g_i_g_i / socialclimber There many ways to skin a cat. For this aplication I think that they want a "safety"" mechanism in place as it is unattended ropes. Unknowing person may over weight the ropes pushing the rope to failure. Prior to failure the TP will slip to release the extra tension from that over weighting. socialclimber: when you say lower and raise with a guiding line do you mean vertically ( vertical or overhung) or low angle stuff like moving a patient across a very uneven ground? I have used a guiding line for deflecting the path of a litter on a highline (english reeve), for moving a litter away from the wall on near vertical slopes, and moving alitter across a scree(sp?)field. Binrat
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socalclimber
Feb 27, 2008, 9:40 PM
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binrat wrote: socialclimber: when you say lower and raise with a guiding line do you mean vertically ( vertical or overhung) or low angle stuff like moving a patient across a very uneven ground? I have used a guiding line for deflecting the path of a litter on a highline (english reeve), for moving a litter away from the wall on near vertical slopes, and moving alitter across a scree(sp?)field. Binrat Either or. Guiding lines can be used in a variety of fashions. And yes, you can even use them in a horizontal setup if need be, i.e. redirecting a vertical setup to move around a large boulder or what have you to get the patient to level ground. As I understand it, and this is not fact, the term "High Line" .vs. "Guiding Line" are no longer interchangeable, they are now indeed different. Hopefuly Majid will pipe in since he's more current than I am at this point. I stopped doing SAR stuff about 3 years ago, but it was made clear to us that these are both different concepts and systems. Confused yet? Yup... know the feeling
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shoo
Feb 27, 2008, 10:20 PM
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Two questions. First, why aren't the black ropes tied directly to the anchor points rather than to an individual bolt? It seems to me that if the prussiks are going to slip, you want to have that black rope equalized off of several points rather than just one. Even if the prussik will "absorb" some of the force and equalize it, why not just tie the ropes to the anchor points? Second why the criss-cross anchor set up? It's more efficient to minimize (admittedly low already) angle between points. I suppose that if you believe that there's a danger that an entire half of your anchoring rock will break loose somehow, you'd want this setup. If that were the case, then you'd definitely want to have the black ropes straight to the anchor points anyway.
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binrat
Feb 27, 2008, 10:33 PM
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socalclimber wrote: binrat wrote: socialclimber: when you say lower and raise with a guiding line do you mean vertically ( vertical or overhung) or low angle stuff like moving a patient across a very uneven ground? I have used a guiding line for deflecting the path of a litter on a highline (english reeve), for moving a litter away from the wall on near vertical slopes, and moving alitter across a scree(sp?)field. Binrat Either or. Guiding lines can be used in a variety of fashions. And yes, you can even use them in a horizontal setup if need be, i.e. redirecting a vertical setup to move around a large boulder or what have you to get the patient to level ground. As I understand it, and this is not fact, the term "High Line" .vs. "Guiding Line" are no longer interchangeable, they are now indeed different. Hopefuly Majid will pipe in since he's more current than I am at this point. I stopped doing SAR stuff about 3 years ago, but it was made clear to us that these are both different concepts and systems. Confused yet? Yup... know the feeling I guess I'm of the newer generation because highlines are rigged differently compared to the guiding line. Cheers Binrat edited because of my fat fingers
(This post was edited by binrat on Feb 27, 2008, 10:43 PM)
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majid_sabet
Feb 27, 2008, 10:51 PM
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GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet?
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majid_sabet
Feb 27, 2008, 11:14 PM
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socalclimber wrote: binrat wrote: socialclimber: when you say lower and raise with a guiding line do you mean vertically ( vertical or overhung) or low angle stuff like moving a patient across a very uneven ground? I have used a guiding line for deflecting the path of a litter on a highline (english reeve), for moving a litter away from the wall on near vertical slopes, and moving alitter across a scree(sp?)field. Binrat Either or. Guiding lines can be used in a variety of fashions. And yes, you can even use them in a horizontal setup if need be, i.e. redirecting a vertical setup to move around a large boulder or what have you to get the patient to level ground. As I understand it, and this is not fact, the term "High Line" .vs. "Guiding Line" are no longer interchangeable, they are now indeed different. Hopefuly Majid will pipe in since he's more current than I am at this point. I stopped doing SAR stuff about 3 years ago, but it was made clear to us that these are both different concepts and systems. Confused yet? Yup... know the feeling Guide line, High line and Tyrolean are three different systems even due they all look very similar. Guide line is a fixed line with a built-in MA and generally a load that just rolls on the line with one separate line controlling the movement. MA is used to lower or raise the line to clear obstacles. An example of guide line is like lowering a subject on the hill side over some large rocks etc or transporting a subject from 10 story high building with a 45 degree angle in to a parking lot Tyrolean is setting up a line that has no horizontal control and the subject is in charge moving the load by himself . Basically a fix line, a load on a pulley and the subjects just move himself from one side to other (assuming there are no Vs in the middle). The high lines are similar to Tyrolean with exception of both horizontal and or combination of vertical movements .In addition to MA for tensioning the lines there could be other MA for raising and or lowering. Some complex high lines could have 4-6 lines going across a section and each lines may have belay built-in belay and or safety prusik. All three systems especially the complex high lines are consider very dangerous due to fact that if they are not rigged correctly, system could fail. So this is what I know on these systems but feel free to correct me. Now, is the name Tyrolean came from Austria or is the name of the person who came up with this system?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 27, 2008, 11:25 PM)
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sticky_fingers
Feb 27, 2008, 11:19 PM
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On rc.com, they're called a Trollean Traverse.
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trenchdigger
Feb 27, 2008, 11:32 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Exactly...
majid_sabet wrote: Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet? Wait, what are we betting on? Other than the above, you've been way off on this one so far. If you spent $2500 on a 90 hour tech course you: a) paid too much and b) should ask for a refund because you apparently didn't learn jack shit... then again, maybe it wasn't their fault.
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Feb 27, 2008, 11:32 PM)
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binrat
Feb 28, 2008, 12:11 AM
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I was told once the tyrolean came from an area in the Dolomite Alps. They were the first ones to use rope for horizontal movement in the alps. Binrat
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majid_sabet
Feb 28, 2008, 12:29 AM
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trench Every time you respond or butt in to a post that isn’t your specialty (like you got any), you are confirming that you are my bitch.
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g_i_g_i
Feb 28, 2008, 3:55 PM
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Hey Majid, ok, you're right, what was I thinking, I was way off... But you're also a poor soul who needs to post his bullshit quiz topics just to show off, and there is no course that can fix that. Thanks for teaching me something the worst possible way.
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shockabuku
Feb 28, 2008, 4:20 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet? So how did it get tight in the first place?
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Valarc
Feb 28, 2008, 4:40 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: trench Every time you respond or butt in to a post that isn’t your specialty (like you got any), you are confirming that you are my bitch. quoting this one because majid loves to edit his posts...
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binrat
Feb 28, 2008, 4:47 PM
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shoo wrote: Two questions. First, why aren't the black ropes tied directly to the anchor points rather than to an individual bolt? It seems to me that if the prussiks are going to slip, you want to have that black rope equalized off of several points rather than just one. Even if the prussik will "absorb" some of the force and equalize it, why not just tie the ropes to the anchor points? Second why the criss-cross anchor set up? It's more efficient to minimize (admittedly low already) angle between points. I suppose that if you believe that there's a danger that an entire half of your anchoring rock will break loose somehow, you'd want this setup. If that were the case, then you'd definitely want to have the black ropes straight to the anchor points anyway. shoo I will try to answer for you. first, redundancy. If the webbing fails then the whole line with webbing is gone. Having it into a bolt hanger takes links out of the equation. Think again redundancy, having the webbing criss - crossing if 1 ara of the rock fails then you still have aleast 1 anchor.
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binrat
Feb 28, 2008, 4:52 PM
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shockabuku wrote: majid_sabet wrote: GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet? So how did it get tight in the first place? There are a few easy ways to tighten the system. Make a MA that would connect onto the end of the rope, or build a MA that would piggy back on the tandem prussiks that would be removed after tensioning. Binrat
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shoo
Feb 28, 2008, 4:55 PM
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binrat wrote: shoo I will try to answer for you. first, redundancy. If the webbing fails then the whole line with webbing is gone. Having it into a bolt hanger takes links out of the equation. Think again redundancy, having the webbing criss - crossing if 1 ara of the rock fails then you still have aleast 1 anchor. The way I'm looking at it, the webbing anchors are perfectly redundant by themselves. Each two point webbing anchor is tied with a knot such that if any single point or strand of webbing fails the system will still be loading at least one point. That's pretty much the definition of redundancy right there. As for the crossing, from where I'm looking, it appears that the bolted rock is from one single solid piece of stone. The risk of the stone splitting right between the middle two bolts and one half falling out seems so small to me that I would consider it negligible.
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reg
Feb 28, 2008, 6:02 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: trench ......you are confirming that you are my bitch. we gotta get you a women, majid - ur using that too much!
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zeke_sf
Feb 28, 2008, 6:17 PM
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Valarc wrote: majid_sabet wrote: trench Every time you respond or butt in to a post that isn’t your specialty (like you got any), you are confirming that you are my bitch. quoting this one because majid loves to edit his posts... His posting ethics are indeed weak. We can only hope his advice isn't similarly flawed. We are counting on you Majid! Don't use butane when jet fuel is the gas that will make the rocket go!
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shockabuku
Feb 28, 2008, 7:41 PM
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binrat wrote: shockabuku wrote: majid_sabet wrote: GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet? So how did it get tight in the first place? There are a few easy ways to tighten the system. Make a MA that would connect onto the end of the rope, or build a MA that would piggy back on the tandem prussiks that would be removed after tensioning. Binrat That's kind of what I assumed. So the two level up analysis says build another anchor (preferably in line with the system) and build an MA system to tighten it through the prussiks if it gets loose and you don't want to replace it. It seems the prussiks serve a double purpose here to some extent.
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cintune
Feb 28, 2008, 7:46 PM
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Here's a simplified app that shows the force multiplication that results from various degrees of tensioning in a traverse. http://www.tagsafety.com/info/tyrolean.php As far as the prusiks go, the significant thing is that they provide rope-and-bolt-friendly shock-absorption when in use. Their diagnostic value, which Majid stresses, is only accessory to their superiority over attaching static line directly to the bolts and then riding the line. If for some reason someone starts bouncing, the prusiks slip instead of the knotted rope or the anchor failing.
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majid_sabet
Feb 28, 2008, 8:12 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: Valarc wrote: majid_sabet wrote: trench Every time you respond or butt in to a post that isn’t your specialty (like you got any), you are confirming that you are my bitch. quoting this one because majid loves to edit his posts... zeke sf His posting ethics are indeed weak. We can only hope his advice isn't similarly flawed. We are counting on you Majid! Don't use butane when jet fuel is the gas that will make the rocket go! I do not try to follow people’s post trying to dump negative comments that are not related to their subject and I always welcome intelligent and intellectual arguments especially, if it is related to topic I post . I never say I am right or wrong but even when If I do,at least I will try to bring enough facts and evidence to prove my point. The whole point of posting this was not to ask you guys wtf this system is or does. I know why these sorts of systems are built but, I always look forward to find out more about other applications, pros and cons and any other info which I may not be updated on. NOW, on the unethical part me; when some college boy (trench n00b and his associates) comes in a tries to say something that is not related to the topic or his comments contains racial BS, you are guaranteed that I will rip his as* apart.
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zeke_sf
Feb 28, 2008, 8:17 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Valarc wrote: majid_sabet wrote: trench Every time you respond or butt in to a post that isn’t your specialty (like you got any), you are confirming that you are my bitch. quoting this one because majid loves to edit his posts... zeke sf His posting ethics are indeed weak. We can only hope his advice isn't similarly flawed. We are counting on you Majid! Don't use butane when jet fuel is the gas that will make the rocket go! I do not try to follow people’s post trying to dump negative comments that are not related to their subject and I always welcome intelligent and intellectual arguments especially, if it is related to topic I post . I never say I am right or wrong but even when If I do,at least I will try to bring enough facts and evidence to prove my point. The whole point of posting this was not to ask you guys wtf this system is or does. I know why these sorts of systems are built but, I always look forward to find out more about other applications, pros and cons and any other info which I may not be updated on. NOW, on the unethical part me; when some college boy (trench n00b and his associates) comes in a tries to say something that is not related to the topic or his comments contains racial BS, you are guaranteed that I will rip his as* apart. Ah, Majid, we all know you play a bit of a game and don't structure your responses to have the most intellectual of conversations at all times. But that's how it goes here. Deleting your posts isn't good form is all we are saying about ethics. Go ahead and make all those dudes your bitch! That's also what this site is about.
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majid_sabet
Feb 29, 2008, 12:15 AM
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Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man.
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carabiner96
Feb 29, 2008, 12:21 AM
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So, if they're all his bitch, is Majid the catcher or the pitcher? Time for a new poll?
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 29, 2008, 12:22 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. Majid you need to start smoking that shit and relax a bit.
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zeke_sf
Feb 29, 2008, 12:27 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. Hey, I'm just an expert n00b; I just know about posting ethics and techniques for climbing through the rc.com forums. I'll leave this climbing shit to the climbers. If this guy's being a real Jakedatc, I say you give him a taste of the gas.
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majid_sabet
Feb 29, 2008, 12:42 AM
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read below
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 29, 2008, 1:07 AM)
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carabiner96
Feb 29, 2008, 12:57 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Arrogant_Bastard In mid 70s, I saw drug addicts on the street shooting needles and drop dead the next day. In early 80s, I was climbing in southern Afghanistan (closer to Pakistan border) met a local who was having conversation with my mountain guide. Dude had near $1 million worth of heroin duct taped all over his body hitch hiking toward Turkey. Do you have any idea how much sh*t I seen in my life ? and we care why?
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no_email_entered
Feb 29, 2008, 12:59 AM
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cintune wrote: Here's a simplified app that shows the force multiplication that results from various degrees of tensioning in a traverse. http://www.tagsafety.com/info/tyrolean.php As far as the prusiks go, the significant thing is that they provide rope-and-bolt-friendly shock-absorption when in use. Their diagnostic value, which Majid stresses, is only accessory to their superiority over attaching static line directly to the bolts and then riding the line. If for some reason someone starts bouncing, the prusiks slip instead of the knotted rope or the anchor failing. you shoulda posted this earlier [thanks cool app]. might have saved a few electrons---- but then again majid wouldnt have his bitch. [is that you daddy?]
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trenchdigger
Feb 29, 2008, 7:04 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. The worst I've done is to point out when I think you're wrong and why I believe so. Tell me now, who's the one that can't take it?
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Feb 29, 2008, 7:07 PM)
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majid_sabet
Feb 29, 2008, 7:44 PM
Post #84 of 93
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trenchdigger wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. The worst I've done is to point out when I think you're wrong and why I believe so. Tell me now, who's the one that can't take it? n00ber what do you mean "you THINK" I am wrong? this is not how you said it. You said MS should take his rigging BS cause it is not climbing related where in fact, the images came from climbing magazine. You been smoking gunga ?
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 29, 2008, 10:19 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Arrogant_Bastard In mid 70s, I saw drug addicts on the street shooting needles and drop dead the next day. In early 80s, I was climbing in southern Afghanistan (closer to Pakistan border) met a local who was having conversation with my mountain guide. Dude had near $1 million worth of heroin duct taped all over his body hitch hiking toward Turkey. Do you have any idea how much sh*t I seen in my life ? You're right Majid. Slamming heroin and smoking pot are essentially the same thing.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 29, 2008, 10:21 PM
Post #86 of 93
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majid_sabet wrote: trenchdigger wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. The worst I've done is to point out when I think you're wrong and why I believe so. Tell me now, who's the one that can't take it? n00ber what do you mean "you THINK" I am wrong? this is not how you said it. You said MS should take his rigging BS cause it is not climbing related where in fact, the images came from climbing magazine. You been smoking gunga ? Make sure to use proteckshuns if you're going to smoke the gunga.
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andrewbanandrew
Mar 1, 2008, 12:35 AM
Post #87 of 93
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majid_sabet wrote: GI GI ok, lets take this to one level up . There are no tensioning system built on that side anchor (not on the image I post), therefore how are you going to take the slack out of the rope if you have no MA built-in on that end?. Do not tell me you are going to use your hands to take the slack off the system on two separate ropes evenly and if so, how tight do you think you could tension those two rope by just using the hands? Now I am willing to bet $5000 that you are wrong. $2500 to cover the cost of a course which I took last year that was 90 hours long in Yosemite and all we did was building systems like what you see here and another $2500 so I could retake it the course again just for the fun of it . Do we have a bet? You're the guy in a WFR course who wears his headlamp and helmet to the field sessions in the local city's park... ...right?
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majid_sabet
Mar 1, 2008, 12:59 AM
Post #88 of 93
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andrewbanandrew wrote: majid_sabet wrote: GI GI Do we have a bet? You're the guy in a WFR course who wears his headlamp and helmet to the field sessions in the local city's park... ...right? You thought it was a headlamp but you did not pay closer attention to the middle of the LED lightbulbs. Did you?
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no_email_entered
Mar 1, 2008, 1:03 AM
Post #89 of 93
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so where you climbin this weekend majid?
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majid_sabet
Mar 1, 2008, 1:44 AM
Post #90 of 93
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no_email_entered wrote: so where you climbin this weekend majid? I want to do some aid in castle rock/summit rock this sunday and I will be in JT next weekend. Do you live in the area?
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no_email_entered
Mar 1, 2008, 2:12 AM
Post #91 of 93
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dam. like ships passing in the night. no i'll be clipping bolts and placing moderate pro somewhere on the west coast then JT in 2 weeks. sumday we will climb. we will wear helmets. we will belay safely and we will say no to drugs [mostly].
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t2stone
Mar 2, 2008, 10:52 AM
Post #92 of 93
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I DO KNOW YOU DONT NEED BOLTS 4 WHEN THERES A NICE CRACK RIGHT NEXT~DOOR WHAT A SPORTCLIMER DOES IS...UMM (STUPID)....)^:
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trenchdigger
Mar 3, 2008, 4:03 PM
Post #93 of 93
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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majid_sabet wrote: trenchdigger wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Zake I delete my old post after few weeks or so it has nothing to do with agreeing or disagreement with a particular person. This is just to keep no record on-line and have it low key. As far as talking on any intelligent and or getting in to an intellectual conversation well, it depends who I am talking too and how deep I want to cover a subject. I personally try to stay away from too many scientific argument due to fact that I may not be able to present or explain what I would like to say and I do not want be judged base on what people may read on some forum. Trench is been punk as* for long time I keep stopping myself from not getting in to on-line bashing with him or any of his similar buddies but once someone goes in to my sh*t list, they are there for long time plus, I do not know the fuc8ing guy and if he disagrees with a topic or something he sees then, he should get his punk as* down and use his knowledge and prove his point like how everyone else has done such as yourself, GI GI and the rest .He is posting BS, start his typical wabbit bashing with no reasons or make a dumb comment and then hide is not the way a man make his point therefore, I call him my lady cause he can not take like a man. The worst I've done is to point out when I think you're wrong and why I believe so. Tell me now, who's the one that can't take it? n00ber what do you mean "you THINK" I am wrong? this is not how you said it. You said MS should take his rigging BS cause it is not climbing related where in fact, the images came from climbing magazine. You been smoking gunga ? This BS came from the climbing magazine?
majid_sabet wrote: Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything. Show me where...
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