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clausti
Jul 10, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #51 of 59
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Registered: Oct 5, 2004
Posts: 5690
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clausti wrote: you know what?
i always stick clip my PTFTWs.
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clausti
Jul 10, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #52 of 59
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Registered: Oct 5, 2004
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clausti wrote: clausti wrote: you know what? i always stick clip my PTFTWs.
but then, i rap-bolted my protekshunz.
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sungam
Jul 10, 2008, 11:06 PM
Post #53 of 59
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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camhead wrote: gawd, you guys (other than cracklover and clausti) are missing the point. this is not a stylistic or ethical debate, or even a spray-a-ton (although I kind of made it one by calling the guy weke). it is a black and white matter of RIGHT and WRONG. Luke Skywalker here wrote In reply to: If there first bolt is that high, you can bet the beginning sequence is significantly easier than the overall difficulty of the route. that. is. wrong. that's all.
Mebe if he sayed that it's possible the start is considerabley easier then the rest.
Then again, maybe he was saing "you can bet on it, so I'll bet against you, then I'll have some moniez to buy protekshonz"
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sungam
Jul 10, 2008, 11:06 PM
Post #54 of 59
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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joeforte wrote: I better update my "send list" so I can better prove myself to internet geeks... Lame
You should do just that.
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sungam
Jul 10, 2008, 11:07 PM
Post #55 of 59
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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clausti wrote: clausti wrote: you know what? i always stick clip my PTFTWs.
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camhead
Jul 10, 2008, 11:13 PM
Post #56 of 59
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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hey sungamagnus,
check outz my new swig, NOW!
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sungam
Jul 12, 2008, 1:09 PM
Post #57 of 59
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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camhead wrote: hey sungamagnus, check outz my new swig, NOW!
Atchaly, I have tri-citezen ship...
EAT IT! BIOTCH! EEEAAATTTT ITTTTTT!!!
(taste gud, dunnit?)
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drh
Oct 31, 2008, 4:16 PM
Post #58 of 59
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Registered: Jun 18, 2004
Posts: 1
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Scrupuruss wrote: Again, thanks for all the advice. Is there anybody here who has actually climbed the Pie Slice? Although it may lead to a whole new round of name-calling, I'd like to risk hearing about people's actual experience with this particular rock. I can imagine that people have done both-- some climb up to the first clip, and others stick-clip it. The third option for this locale would be climbing up another side (perhaps with the help of a nearby tree?) to get to the top to set up a toprope anchor.
The easiest and only way up the pie slice is the 5.10A route. It is not a particularly bold climb and the easy crux is the final lip to the top not getting to the first bolt. A horizontal crack at the bottom will accept a cam if you do not like the exposure to the first bolt. When I last climbed it (15? years ago) the 1/4" hammer in button head bolts especially the last one with some shaft showing did not inspire too much confidence in the protection. I hope they have been replaced by now.
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Tfish
Aug 18, 2009, 6:21 AM
Post #59 of 59
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 7
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I just climbed this today. I used a cam in the first crack with a long runner. All the bolts are pretty solid with some silicon over the head. The 4th bolt is a little loose. And then the bolt at the very top is a old rusty 1/4 one but you dont need it because you only see it after you top out. Who ever bolted this route was a retard because the rap chains are way to the right side and are horrible for cleaning the route.
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