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spikeddem
Jan 21, 2009, 6:32 AM
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sungam wrote: carabiner96 wrote: me - NEAR MISS! Yer fault and yer loss!  I'll catch you in vermont.
Getting some good election banter?
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sungam
Jan 21, 2009, 10:49 PM
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spikeddem wrote: sungam wrote: carabiner96 wrote: me - NEAR MISS! Yer fault and yer loss! I'll catch you in vermont. Getting some good election banter?
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Yosemite1976
Jan 24, 2009, 1:59 PM
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Sungam~ Do you have any Alaskan trips on your schedual yet ?
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sungam
Jan 24, 2009, 6:08 PM
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Kinda. I doubt I'll make it on this trip - there's just too much to see. I'm already considering cutting my time in the valley/sierras short so I can get more variety...
I might be making "haggisdonny takes t3h gr34t wh1t3 n0rth by storm!!!" next year, though.
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the_climber
Jan 26, 2009, 6:47 PM
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sungam wrote: I might be making "haggisdonny takes t3h gr34t wh1t3 n0rth by storm!!!" next year, though.
So that means you're putting off Canadian Ice Climbing till next year?
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originalpmac
Jan 27, 2009, 4:46 AM
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so uhh Magnus, next time you come to Ouray, you might not want to hit on all the guys. Just cause that dude led an M9 doesn't mean you should blow him. Kinda gives you a bad reputation in the San Juans. Just a friendly heads ( ) up.
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sungam
Jan 27, 2009, 6:34 PM
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the_climber wrote: sungam wrote: I might be making "haggisdonny takes t3h gr34t wh1t3 n0rth by storm!!!" next year, though. So that means you're putting off Canadian Ice Climbing till next year?
If I find some cheap tickets I'll still shoot up for a week or so this trip.
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kachoong
Jan 27, 2009, 6:48 PM
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sungam wrote: the_climber wrote: sungam wrote: I might be making "haggisdonny takes t3h gr34t wh1t3 n0rth by storm!!!" next year, though. So that means you're putting off Canadian Ice Climbing till next year? Well, I'm super confused about what to do. So many choices, and I've been thinking that if I go to canada I at least want to spend quite a bit of time there. If I find some cheap tickets I'll still shoot up for a week or so this trip.
Trust me... once you head into the Canadian Rockies you'll want to stay MUCH longer than a couple of weeks!
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sungam
Jan 27, 2009, 7:51 PM
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That's exactly what I'm worried about.
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the_climber
Jan 27, 2009, 7:56 PM
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You may end up wanting to plan a whole new vacation just for Ice and Alpine in the Canadian rockies.
I climbed with a Brit named Rob a few years ago who was on an extended travelling/climbing trip. He ended up spending October through April in the rockies because of the ice.
Edit to add:
Early season (october/early Nov) ice here will seem somewhat like scotish conditons on some routes, while other routes can form up so fat that no scottish ice will ever compare... then you have the mid season ice the will simply blow your mind.
Then there is the Alpine...
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 27, 2009, 7:59 PM)
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kachoong
Jan 27, 2009, 8:01 PM
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Yeah, I stayed from Feb through till July in the Canadian Rockies. Also, when I first went to Vancouver, I caught a bus towards Whistler... for the work possibilities... on the way I saw the Chief in Squamish and yelled for the bus driver to stop.... ended up staying 12 weeks and never saw Whistler! 
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sungam
Jan 27, 2009, 9:44 PM
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You make decisions hard. How much could I get done in 3 weeks?
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sungam
Jan 27, 2009, 10:07 PM
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originalpmac wrote: so uhh Magnus, next time you come to Ouray, you might not want to hit on all the guys. Just cause that dude led an M9 doesn't mean you should blow him. Kinda gives you a bad reputation in the San Juans. Just a friendly heads ( ) up.
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originalpmac
Jan 27, 2009, 11:28 PM
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funny, but I am barely leading WI4's. Must have been someone else. You might not want to drink that much as well, distorts the memory. Again, a friendly 's up.
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kachoong
Jan 28, 2009, 4:25 PM
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sungam wrote: You make decisions hard. How much could I get done in 3 weeks?
Depends.... on your level of technique and commitment. There truly is ten lifetimes worth of just ice climbing and alpine in the Canadian Rockies.
You could climb a variety of stuff in 3 weeks for sure. Maybe based out of Canmore or Banff. Johnson Canyon is fun. There's Cascade Falls, Professor Falls, Louise Falls, the Junkyard... all sorts of cool stuff!
There's even more amazing stuff out at Ghost River and along the highway to Jasper.
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the_climber
Jan 28, 2009, 5:14 PM
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kachoong wrote: There's even more amazing stuff out at Ghost River and along the highway to Jasper.
And if you're in the know there are many more a valley outside of the Ghost just like the Valley of the Birds in the Ghost.... with lines a plenty left untouched and unclimbed.
There are alsom many other untouched big lines too.
Seriously the locals rack up a good 20+ worthey new ice routes a year... and that's with weeding out the lemons. With any luck next month I'll add 6 or more to that list this year.
Edited to add:
The Ghost is simplely a magical place that is a 'must see' destination by any ice climber.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 28, 2009, 5:15 PM)
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sungam
Jan 28, 2009, 5:22 PM
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How hard do I has to be leading?
I'm not exactly the strongest ice climber, but I am super stoked to try. I can second 5, but I would mostly feel sketched trying 4 on the sharp end.
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the_climber
Jan 28, 2009, 5:28 PM
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You'll do just fine if you carriez the h34vy pack in.
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the_climber
Jan 28, 2009, 5:32 PM
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sungam wrote: I can second 5, but I would mostly feel sketched trying 4 on the sharp end.
Difference between leading WI3 and WI4 is mostly physical endurance and technique in your footwork.
Difference between leading WI4 and WI5 is mostly psychological and stamina related, but not so much strength related.
Difference between leading WI3+ and Easy WI4 is all in your head.
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kachoong
Jan 28, 2009, 5:43 PM
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the_climber wrote: sungam wrote: I can second 5, but I would mostly feel sketched trying 4 on the sharp end. Difference between leading WI3 and WI4 is mostly physical endurance and technique in your footwork. Difference between leading WI4 and WI5 is mostly psychological and stamina related, but not so much strength related. Difference between leading WI3+ and Easy WI4 is all in your head.
Yeah, like Professor Falls when it's in is a beautiful lead! No worries, mate!
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sungam
Jan 28, 2009, 7:20 PM
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Yez, in my head. The hard part about ice climbing.
Well one of the hard parts.
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sungam
Sep 7, 2009, 4:50 PM
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Gmburns2000
Sep 7, 2009, 5:15 PM
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I see what you did there ^^
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