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curt
Oct 25, 2008, 3:05 AM
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sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt
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sungam
Oct 25, 2008, 4:12 AM
Post #52 of 60
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curt wrote: sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt Sorry, the confusion came from the Font/French thing.
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PatMcGinn
Nov 1, 2008, 10:36 PM
Post #53 of 60
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sungam wrote: Same goes for Dai. Word, I have a lot of respect for him. 5' 3/4'' represent!
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bustloose
Nov 12, 2008, 7:57 PM
Post #54 of 60
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anyone who doubts Dai's pedigree needs to do some homework. maybe have a look around and see who's tried and failed on the problem, that might add some perspective for you as well. the very simple answer to this post is that if you doubt the grade, go and climb it. (and the 733t speak gangsta poseur flame fest was really funny stuff...)
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k.l.k
Nov 12, 2008, 8:07 PM
Post #55 of 60
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Registered: May 9, 2007
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curt wrote: sungam wrote: Font and French or most certainly different. French is for grading sport routes and is used from 4 to 9b (note the lower case), whereas Font is used for boulder problems (not just traverses any more, in fact french grades are usually used for long traverses) and go from 4 to 8C+. http://www.rockfax.com/...cations/bgrades.html Thanks for the link. I believe it confirms what I suspected--as it indicates that French route grades and traverse grades are the same. Curt Actually, as it was explained to me by the locals, the Font traverse grade is slightly different from the numeric system used on the roped routes. It has the same numbers (but then, so do the boulder grades), just shifted slightly to reflect the fact that a traverse is typically somewhat easier to work and link than a roped sport route. I haven't completed any of the graded traverses (although I failed to flash an 8b at Sabots), so can't offer any opinion as to how it works, precisely. The Swiss seem to just be using Bleau boulder grades for traverse problems. It's ridiculously confusing.
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porchy
Nov 13, 2008, 8:07 AM
Post #56 of 60
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Registered: Nov 11, 2008
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number whores.
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k.l.k
Nov 13, 2008, 3:30 PM
Post #57 of 60
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porchy wrote: number whores. i cruised all yore projs b4 bvb moved to flag
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jcrew
Jun 24, 2010, 6:42 PM
Post #58 of 60
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curt wrote: Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale. Curt well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened
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curt
Jun 25, 2010, 2:02 AM
Post #59 of 60
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jcrew wrote: curt wrote: Right. Which is why very long problems like this do not fit the traditional definition of bouldering--and should really be graded using the YDS or Font traverse grading systems, instead of the "V" scale. Curt well, ethan pringle just grabbed the 3rd. send and called it 9a/.14d. Curt spoke, and they listened Hey, I'd like to take credit and all, but I think it's just a matter of common sense. Curt
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sungam
Jun 25, 2010, 10:23 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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BWAHAHAHAHA Oh...HAHAHAHAHA my... HAHAHAHAHA gawd... HAHAHAHA *wipes tear from eye* HAHAHAHAHA *cough cough* ahem.... BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA All the memories come rushing back. pr0x1mo, Protospray, Aceto. bwahahahha. Too funny. There haven't been so many great alter egos lately.
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