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healyje


Oct 23, 2008, 5:35 PM
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Re: [jmbekd] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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jmbekd wrote:
You know... Looking at the pictures, it looks like the Red #9 is the same size as the Grey #10. Could the main problem be that your Red #9 is in truth a Grey #10 that was mis-anodized?

JMB

It only appears that way because I cropped each photo the same and then scaled them all to 900 pixels wide. The effect is to make all of them look more or less ballpark of the same size in the photo, but I can assure you they are all quite different sizes. The #9s (red) in the photo are both significantly larger than the #8s in the photo above and significantly smaller than the #10s in the photo below.

You'll also note that the HBs and DMMs are pretty comparable sizewise except for the #9 which significantly deviates and the #11 where the DMM is slightly smaller - probably within acceptable finishing tolerances I would guess.


(This post was edited by healyje on Oct 23, 2008, 5:40 PM)


tomtom


Oct 23, 2008, 6:06 PM
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Re: [healyje] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
It only appears that way because I cropped each photo the same and then scaled them all to 900 pixels wide. The effect is to make all of them look more or less ballpark of the same size in the photo, but I can assure you they are all quite different sizes.

This is a stupid comparison, then. The pics should have been normalized to the scale of the HB nuts, so that the differences are evident.

Colors suck, too.


billcoe_


Oct 23, 2008, 8:11 PM
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Re: [hemp22] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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hemp22 wrote:
Surely some other local gear whores have both HBs and DMMs to compare to [paging Billcoe...]

Gear whore: true dat, however - I came late to the HB game Jeff, and only own the DMM's.

HOWEVER: before you send that red DMM all the way back to the Welsh or where ever they are now JH, you should measure it and tell Chris what it measures. It could be right on the money exactly what they are making every current one, but not to the HB sizing is all. I have a good pair of calibrated digital Mitutoyo's you can use if you need to mic it. I would do a crayon drawing of them but do not have that kind of technology.....Sly


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 12:46 AM
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Re: [tomtom] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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tomtom wrote:
healyje wrote:
It only appears that way because I cropped each photo the same and then scaled them all to 900 pixels wide. The effect is to make all of them look more or less ballpark of the same size in the photo, but I can assure you they are all quite different sizes.

This is a stupid comparison, then. The pics should have been normalized to the scale of the HB nuts, so that the differences are evident.

The point is only to compare like sizes - i.e. HB #9 against DMM #9 etc. - not to compare different sizes. The pictures quite well illustrate comparisons of like sizes; HB's on the left, DMM's on the right. That the photo scale of each nut size isn't to actual scale, or to relative scale with the other sizes is entirely irrelevant. Can't quite understand how someone could not get that, but oh well...

Bill, yes, that is one of the two possibilities and if that is the case - that they are making the #9s consistently, but out of the HB spec - then I would very much encourage them to redo that mold so to bring it into spec with the HB #9. If it's simply an execution anomolly then hopefully I can avail myself of a couple of in-spec ones without having to buy whole sets.


(This post was edited by healyje on Oct 24, 2008, 12:47 AM)


ptlong


Oct 24, 2008, 12:55 AM
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Re: [healyje] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
If it's simply an execution anomolly then hopefully I can avail myself of a couple of in-spec ones without having to buy whole sets.

Joe, why are you limited to buying them only as whole sets? A pro deal limitation?


AlexCV


Oct 24, 2008, 1:05 AM
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Re: [ptlong] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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ptlong wrote:
healyje wrote:
If it's simply an execution anomolly then hopefully I can avail myself of a couple of in-spec ones without having to buy whole sets.

Joe, why are you limited to buying them only as whole sets? A pro deal limitation?

Indeed the local supplier here will only sell single for 15$ a piece.


moose_droppings


Oct 24, 2008, 2:12 AM
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Re: [murf] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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murf wrote:
Had some time between tasks this pm. Measured my #7, #8, and #9 DMM offsets. The #9 is exactly between the two in no less than 12 dimensions.

The #9 is exactly between which two? The #7 and #8?


murf


Oct 24, 2008, 2:58 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
murf wrote:
Had some time between tasks this pm. Measured my #7, #8, and #9 DMM offsets. The #9 is exactly between the two in no less than 12 dimensions.

The #9 is exactly between which two? The #7 and #8?

Sorry.... between the 8 and 10....


murf


Oct 24, 2008, 3:01 AM
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Re: [healyje] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
tomtom wrote:
healyje wrote:
It only appears that way because I cropped each photo the same and then scaled them all to 900 pixels wide. The effect is to make all of them look more or less ballpark of the same size in the photo, but I can assure you they are all quite different sizes.

This is a stupid comparison, then. The pics should have been normalized to the scale of the HB nuts, so that the differences are evident.

The point is only to compare like sizes - i.e. HB #9 against DMM #9 etc. - not to compare different sizes. The pictures quite well illustrate comparisons of like sizes; HB's on the left, DMM's on the right. That the photo scale of each nut size isn't to actual scale, or to relative scale with the other sizes is entirely irrelevant. Can't quite understand how someone could not get that, but oh well...

Bill, yes, that is one of the two possibilities and if that is the case - that they are making the #9s consistently, but out of the HB spec - then I would very much encourage them to redo that mold so to bring it into spec with the HB #9. If it's simply an execution anomolly then hopefully I can avail myself of a couple of in-spec ones without having to buy whole sets.

Jesus - you just don't get it...

The #9 is directly between the #8 and the #10

Get out Billcoe_ calipers and check already. The time it took you to take all those photos and then adjust them you could have been doing something useful.

The other thing is if you love the HB's and you have a full set, why buy a $75 set of DMM's? I mean, you already have the "one true set" of nuts, why compromise?


billcoe_


Oct 24, 2008, 3:41 AM
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Re: [murf] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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murf wrote:
The other thing is if you love the HB's and you have a full set, why buy a $75 set of DMM's? I mean, you already have the "one true set" of nuts, why compromise?

Come on, that's heresy sir! Once can never have too much gear! I will say, I was out climbing last year with one of the better climbers in the area- on a relatively easy route. On the 2nd pitch, his led, he dropped a biner full of my beloved DMM nuts -the other, earlier kind. One can ever have too much gear now! Once on the ground 20 min of both of us rooting around in the poison oak during a heatwave and he spotted them just off the trail (not in any poison oak of course :-)

Better to just sack up and get those few extra sets. Then when you're on a long route, you have the triples or whatever you need. Besides that, I know JH occasionally sticks that stuff in a project he has going and raps on gear -pulls the rope but leaves the "anchor". Then if he wants to go do a regular route, he has the gear for it, even if he has 3 #9's equalized as an anchor elsewhere.

However, JH is out of town, so I'll measure his nuts, if he still needs it, when he gets back.

That sounded bad......


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Re: [AlexCV] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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AlexCV wrote:
ptlong wrote:
Joe, why are you limited to buying them only as whole sets? A pro deal limitation?

Indeed the local supplier here will only sell single for 15$ a piece.

I've only seen them sold as sets - news to me that they can be had individually...


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 6:12 AM
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Re: [murf] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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murf wrote:
Jesus - you just don't get it...

The #9 is directly between the #8 and the #10

At this point I'm going to just assume you are beyond clueless - which part of the DMM# 9 is out-of-spec with the HB #9 don't you get? The pictures clearly show all of the DMM's at, or close to, the HB spec - except the DMM #9 which is entirely out of spec with the HB #9. The HB spec is the ONLY thing I'm concerned with in any aspect of this discussion.

Why the DMM #9 is so obviously out-of-spec with the HB #9 is useful in determining whether it is a one-off execution error or a permanent as-built spec error; but in the end I simply am attempting make sure that what ends up on shelves is in-spec with original HBs.

murf wrote:
Get out Billcoe_ calipers and check already. The time it took you to take all those photos and then adjust them you could have been doing something useful.

That three HBs fit two placements that this DMM does not fit tells you the DMM is in fact the out-of-spec piece - no calipers or other measurements are required other than being helpful to DMM in determining if, as mentioned above, it's a one off anomolly or a [mold] design error.

murf wrote:
The other thing is if you love the HB's and you have a full set, why buy a $75 set of DMM's? I mean, you already have the "one true set" of nuts, why compromise?

Becase I lost one of the #9s and didn't have a backup spare for it - I wouldn't have bothered otherwise. The whole point of the discussion has been about simply wanting a performant replacement for one of the original HB Offsets.


Chrisrow


Oct 24, 2008, 8:05 AM
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The Number 9 Offset is forged on the original HB die. I repeat until I get the offending nut here in Llanberis North Wales where we forge them I'd prefer not to speculate further, as that is what most of this is, speculation. I will gladly post the results up when ready.
Just as an aside Rockclimbing.com might be doing a feature on DMM in the future which would be good as you will be able to have verification of what I have tried to explain from a neutral source. Unless any of you guys find yourself over here in which case I'll gladly show you around personally.
Chris


murf


Oct 24, 2008, 12:53 PM
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Re: [healyje] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
murf wrote:
Jesus - you just don't get it...

The #9 is directly between the #8 and the #10

At this point I'm going to just assume you are beyond clueless - which part of the DMM# 9 is out-of-spec with the HB #9 don't you get? The pictures clearly show all of the DMM's at, or close to, the HB spec - except the DMM #9 which is entirely out of spec with the HB #9. The HB spec is the ONLY thing I'm concerned with in any aspect of this discussion.

Why the DMM #9 is so obviously out-of-spec with the HB #9 is useful in determining whether it is a one-off execution error or a permanent as-built spec error; but in the end I simply am attempting make sure that what ends up on shelves is in-spec with original HBs.
nal HB Offsets.

All your pictures prove is that your HB #9 doesn't match your DMM #9. You see, I don't think a single person on this thread has disputed the possibility that the #9 HB and the #9 DMM in your possession don't match. The scaling also removes any comparison between the numbers.

Compare your HB #9 versus the HB #8 and #10.
Do the same with the DMM's.

Now actually measure them all.

Then post. At that point you might have something to add to the thread.

It's hilarious to think that a manufacturer need to slavishly follow your dictates. They say they used the molds. Even if they didn't, that is their pejorative.

I'll end with this... I actually measured mine and the #9 is dead in the center size wise between the #8 and #10. Quality product, works great, I'm in.

Oh, and make sure to post when you send the #9 to DMM.

-Beyond Clueless-


murf


Oct 24, 2008, 1:00 PM
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Re: [Chrisrow] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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Chrisrow wrote:
The Number 9 Offset is forged on the original HB die. I repeat until I get the offending nut here in Llanberis North Wales where we forge them I'd prefer not to speculate further, as that is what most of this is, speculation. I will gladly post the results up when ready.
Just as an aside Rockclimbing.com might be doing a feature on DMM in the future which would be good as you will be able to have verification of what I have tried to explain from a neutral source. Unless any of you guys find yourself over here in which case I'll gladly show you around personally.
Chris

Chris,

Thanks for your continued involvement. You guys make some great products. That Shield is probably the coolest carabiner in the world. Been using the offsets since they came out and they too are solid. Great offer on the factory tour...

Murf


(This post was edited by murf on Oct 24, 2008, 1:01 PM)


mojomonkey


Oct 24, 2008, 1:35 PM
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murf wrote:
Even if they didn't, that is their pejorative.

I think they (represented by Chris) might be the only ones not being pejorative in this thread...


lemon_boy


Oct 24, 2008, 3:48 PM
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to be honest with you, i would kind of prefer that they are a bit different in size, as it makes them more versatile. i find quite often that i wish i had one that is in between sizes to get a better fit.

also, i am not sure whether i would like the wires epoxied at the head or not. it seems like stoppers that have the wires fixed at the head (ie RP's etc) are more vulnerable to the cables getting super kinked when a lazy second just jerks on it. if the cable is free, it can slide a bit to make up for it, and then you just have to re-slide it to straighten it back out.

as a comparison, i think that metolius making their master cams in the same sizes as their tcu's was a big mistake. if they would have offset the sizing by 1/2, then the master cams would make great complimentary pieces to both tcu's and aliens alike. this would be terrific for desert cracks as there is a spooky gap between blue and yellow and yellow and orange tcu's (as well as between green alien and yellow alien).


billcoe_


Oct 24, 2008, 4:35 PM
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Re: [lemon_boy] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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lemon_boy wrote:

also, i am not sure whether i would like the wires epoxied at the head or not. it seems like stoppers that have the wires fixed at the head (ie RP's etc) are more vulnerable to the cables getting super kinked when a lazy second just jerks on it. if the cable is free, it can slide a bit to make up for it, and then you just have to re-slide it to straighten it back out.

I suspect you don't have them right now Lemon boy. What happens is that they slide up while on your rack as you climb. When you go to use them, you have to pull the nut back down, which can be damn difficult if you're barely hanging on. Then your second gets there and pushes on the wire and it just slides up the nut, making use of a nut tool unnecessarily mandatory for every placement. Trust me on this, you don't want them to stay that way. Epoxy is mandatory as the wire it too loose. It's not like the small size dmm and BD nuts, where there is a close interference fit, and it's nice to have it loose so you can loop a bolt that is hangerless.


lemon_boy


Oct 24, 2008, 5:22 PM
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aahhh, i see. that does kind of suck indeed. reminds me of when i go to desperately place an alien and the lobes are all f$$$'d up. drives me crazy....


Arrogant_Bastard


Oct 24, 2008, 5:28 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] DMM alloy offsets [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
Come on, that's heresy sir! Once can never have too much gear!

MODS!!!! Bill mentioned Jebus. Send this pagan fodder off to SoapBox!


Arrogant_Bastard


Oct 24, 2008, 5:30 PM
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billcoe_ wrote:
What happens is that they slide up while on your rack as you climb. When you go to use them, you have to pull the nut back down, which can be damn difficult if you're barely hanging on.

I just put the nuts in my mouth and I can usually get them to drop quickly and easily.


billcoe_


Oct 24, 2008, 5:50 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
I just put the nuts in my mouth and I can usually get them to drop quickly and easily.

Are we talkin dirty? Laugh


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 6:17 PM
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murf wrote:
All your pictures prove is that your HB #9 doesn't match your DMM #9. You see, I don't think a single person on this thread has disputed the possibility that the #9 HB and the #9 DMM in your possession don't match.


Good, that is the entire point of the thread - that somehow a DMM Offset made it out into the wild that was out-of-spec from the HBs.

murf wrote:
The scaling also removes any comparison between the numbers.

Again, that's because it's entirely irrelevant to any aspect of this discussion.

murf wrote:
Compare your HB #9 versus the HB #8 and #10. Do the same with the DMM's. Now actually measure them all. Then post. At that point you might have something to add to the thread.

And yet again - entirely irrelevant to any aspect of this discussion.

murf wrote:
It's hilarious to think that a manufacturer need to slavishly follow your dictates. They say they used the molds. Even if they didn't, that is their pejorative.

This seems to be the essential impedance mismatch in this discussion and why your entire stream of posts are more or less largely irrelevant. While it's certainly DMM's perogative to 'go their own way' - Chris has repeatedly stated here that hasn't been their intention at all - that their intention all along has been to faithfully reproduce the HB geometry, while 'improving' other unrelated aspects of the design.

murf wrote:
I'll end with this... I actually measured mine and the #9 is dead in the center size wise between the #8 and #10. Quality product, works great, I'm in.

The question isn't whether the #9s are inbetween the #8 and #10 (one could only hope they're that competent...), but rather whether DMMs are in-spec with the HB's geometry. And given that is DMM's stated objective, and my sole intent in this thread, you can keep going on an entirely tangential rant, but it has little to do with solving the problem of an out-of-spec DMM Offset making it out into the wild.


(This post was edited by healyje on Oct 24, 2008, 6:21 PM)


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 6:31 PM
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AlexCV wrote:
Least you can do is send them an email about it. You're not the first one to complain about the cable not staying put and DMM did make an alteration to their drilling to make the fit tighter but I don't know if that was done pre-production or mid-production.

DMM starting to epoxy was done in a subsequent production run. In this instance, the decision to not epoxy was a deliberate [re]design decision that varied from the HBs. It resulted in the DMMs essentially being unusable until you epoxied them yourself. Resizing the drilled holes is certainly an option at their disposal as well, but for the DMMs to be functionally equivalent to the HBs they do need to be epoxied regardless .

[ And yes, Murf - believe it or not, functional equivalency is the name of the game; DMM is attempting to deliever a product at least as performant as the HBs, if not better. And that is what I am attempting to assist them with here even if I, and others, disagree with some of the changes they've made in exercising their perogatives. ]


healyje


Oct 24, 2008, 6:36 PM
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lemon_boy wrote:
As a comparison, i think that metolius making their master cams in the same sizes as their tcu's was a big mistake. if they would have offset the sizing by 1/2, then the master cams would make great complimentary pieces to both tcu's and aliens alike. this would be terrific for desert cracks as there is a spooky gap between blue and yellow and yellow and orange tcu's (as well as between green alien and yellow alien).

There wouldn't be any Master Cams at all if Metolius had to completely retool the cam lobe designs - it would be far too high a start up costs relative to reprogramming the CNC's, developing new assembly and test jigs, etc. They simply aren't that big a company to absorb or support that sort of overhead.

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