How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?
I'm pretty sure you can clip the anchors from the ground and it's still a redpoint. After all, sport climbing and top-roping are basically the same thing.
In many areas, stick clips are frowned upon and the accepted practice is to "boulder" to the first bolt.
This of course involves creating a stack of small to medium rocks, or "boulders", one can stand on to reach the bolt.
In areas where natural "boulders" are sparse or particularly heavy you may wish to employ special thick foam "boulder mats" for this purpose though in a pinch logs, spare tires, well trained dogs or the hood of your car will work equally well.
ZERO Fool! It's a Pink point. Question asked at the NEW, if someone placed all your gear on a trad climb would it be a pink point? LOL and we all had another shot and a beer and proceeded to school the kid.
Meh, sport climbing is essentially one big compromise of style (and ethics) to achieve a higher difficulty. (Please don't take that as me passing judgment. I'm not. I sport climb some, too, and like it just fine.) I don't see anything disingenuous with sticking the first bolt on a sport climb and calling your send a redpoint. Hell, "redpoint" is also a compromise of style.
But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.
Hey j_ung! If you see Roger say Hi - Bud from Moab(the Nancy and Greg connection) he will know. As to ethics, call it what it is, no half truths and don't call it what it ain't. I've gotten pretty good at aiding what I can't free climb or am too fraidy cat to commit to. Lost my rule book, was recalling pink point from memory. But as I'm getting up in years my memory is probably failing me. One thing I still remember is how to smile when I'm stick clipping that first bolt.
Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.
uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.
Meh, sport climbing is essentially one big compromise of style (and ethics) to achieve a higher difficulty. (Please don't take that as me passing judgment. I'm not. I sport climb some, too, and like it just fine.) I don't see anything disingenuous with sticking the first bolt on a sport climb and calling your send a redpoint. Hell, "redpoint" is also a compromise of style.
But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.
This site needs some kind of 'dangerous topic in the the thread' smiley, maybe some kind of tiny can full of red wigglers.
That said, I'm all for stick clipping if the bottom bit is scary.
Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.
uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.
Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.
Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.
uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.
Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.
huh? if it was a 5.6 jug haul over sand it wouldn't need a clip either.. whats your point? (maybe i dont get what you're saying)
Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha
Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.
uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.
Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.
and the climber mighta been dead. dunno if you noticed, but it bounced off the rope, is the only reason the death flake wasn't chasing him to the ground.
Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.
uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.
Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.
and the climber mighta been dead. dunno if you noticed, but it bounced off the rope, is the only reason the death flake wasn't chasing him to the ground.
Yeah, he and his parter were pretty damn lucky thats for sure.
Most routes with loose rock potential are not going to have pre-clippable bolts to guard the way and Jake's post made it sound like anybody who uses what, in his own words, looked to be a solid granite flake are foolish for doing so.
So yeah I think I will continue to climb on holds that could break without having a "bolt clipped". Last I checked that was called rock climbing.
Oh and I'm just trolling a stick clipping thread so or which ever one is appropriate to show this is all in jest.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
Excellent. I always knew that my 25m stickclip would come in handy.
Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha
Never fails Jake, I can always count on you for a counter-argument in a stick clip thread!
BTW, you'll be happy to hear that I actually stick clipped a route recently at Summersville. It had a back-breaking fall right off the ground. I didn't call it a redpoint though (mainly because it was a 13? and I flailed hardcore!)
Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha
Never fails Jake, I can always count on you for a counter-argument in a stick clip thread!
BTW, you'll be happy to hear that I actually stick clipped a route recently at Summersville. It had a back-breaking fall right off the ground. I didn't call it a redpoint though (mainly because it was a 13? and I flailed hardcore!)
Still, I would like a re-vote with a 0 option.
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
(This post was edited by joeforte on Nov 24, 2008, 4:21 AM)
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.
In many areas, stick clips are frowned upon and the accepted practice is to "boulder" to the first bolt.
This of course involves creating a stack of small to medium rocks, or "boulders", one can stand on to reach the bolt.
In areas where natural "boulders" are sparse or particularly heavy you may wish to employ special thick foam "boulder mats" for this purpose though in a pinch logs, spare tires, well trained dogs or the hood of your car will work equally well.
Or you can find me and ask to stand on my #12 Hex.
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.
Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.
Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!
ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.
and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.
Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!
ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.
and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.
so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.
I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.
Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0
Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c
mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.
Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!
ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.
and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.
But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.
This is a big sticking point for me. While I personally don't like stick-clipping, it's the freedom to make that choice that is most important to me. Therefore, if you want it to be a red-point with all bolts stick-clipped, then that's your decision. If you don't want it to be a redpoint, then that's your decision, too. if someone gives you shit about it, then kick 'em in the knee cap and steal their gear.
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
it still amazes me that trads want to push their tired ethics on everyone else. if you are bumbling up an 80 degree 5.8 slab then you may not need that first bolt clipped. if you are on a 5.13 sport climb that involves a v6 move off the deck you might need the first, second pre-clipped and all the other clips to make the route safe for you. others will hike the route one day without anything pre-clipped, but on another day might clip everything and think nothing of it. it is about the physical and mental ability to send a sport route, not how much you want to risk going to the hospital on any given day. if you want that, trad climb or do highball boulders.
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a red point?
I will usually stick clip the first bolt of a route if it is hard getting up to it, as I don't want a broken leg(s) if something happened (hold break, foot slip, etc). I will still call it a red point if I stick the first bolt.
My answer...what ever you want to do is fine. I have more on my mind then how many bolts a person pre-clips. There is no climbing rule book. Whatever. Be safe and have fun.
(This post was edited by kylerose on Nov 24, 2008, 11:28 PM)
Do what you want. Maybe in a while the person who needs to stick it up today will be able to climb it without any pre-clipping, or maybe it will always be too dangerous for them. The problem is worrying about what other people think of your ascent style,as opposed to your area and route impact ethics. Its a bunch of crap. We all know when we are climbing in our best possible style and when we are doing everything possible to eliminate risk because the route is at the upper end of our abilities. The bogus comparison and pretend competition is just ridiculous.
KLAWSTI! CLEAN UP TRIPLECHEESETIT POST NOW! NOW!
A triple post has to be good for at least a two day banz.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
Ive totally rope gunned the first bolt (or piece of pro) for my less confident sister before, but she never takes credit for the red point.
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.
I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.
Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though. Don
Enabler!!!!
Tiss tru. But we can't let the spurt klimbers had all de fun. Us turd klimbers gots toes be bads somtime toos. Coarse when I cans clips da furst bolt from de ground, sans stick, dats a litle much. ;D
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?
0
agreed, with every one who said cero. Your at teh crag 2 climb; so sack up, grow a set and climb!
*snaps stick clip over knee* Dude, you've shown me the error of my ways...
I'm glad I could help, but dude dont destroy your gear because your not going to use it. donate it to some still sackless climber that may need it. You wouldn't expect a spurt climbing convert to throw his draws away just cuz he bought a set of cams. dont waste the gearz!
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?
0
agreed, with every one who said cero. Your at teh crag 2 climb; so sack up, grow a set and climb!
*snaps stick clip over knee* Dude, you've shown me the error of my ways...
I'm glad I could help, but dude dont destroy your gear because your not going to use it. donate it to some still sackless climber that may need it. You wouldn't expect a spurt climbing convert to throw his draws away just cuz he bought a set of cams. dont waste the gearz!
So you're saying that by trash stalking my neighbor I'm wasting my time? Crap. Anyone throwing out a new plasma screen TV any time soon?
Ill tell you what, whatever it takes to avoid a ground fall. In most cases I would say the first bolt if its really high. I will take a fall if its a small fall, I love to boulder. But, I also think a high ground fall that causes injury or worse is not worth the risk. Just this weekend I blew a clip on a runout second bolt and took a 25 foot ground fall, I walked away from it pretty banged up but I will never let it happen again, this I am sure. When I am able to breath properly again and the puss stops seeping from my head, (I was wearing a helmet, it is now a two piece), I will be back to the route that kicked my ass. I will be bringing a stick clip and I will be stick clipping that second bolt. Sport climbing is about having fun pushing your limits on a project. Clip what you need to to stay safe. If you want to be a cowboy place your pro.
Ill tell you what, whatever it takes to avoid a ground fall. In most cases I would say the first bolt if its really high. I will take a fall if its a small fall, I love to boulder. But, I also think a high ground fall that causes injury or worse is not worth the risk. Just this weekend I blew a clip on a runout second bolt and took a 25 foot ground fall, I walked away from it pretty banged up but I will never let it happen again, this I am sure. When I am able to breath properly again and the puss stops seeping from my head, (I was wearing a helmet, it is now a two piece), I will be back to the route that kicked my ass. I will be bringing a stick clip and I will be stick clipping that second bolt. Sport climbing is about having fun pushing your limits on a project. Clip what you need to to stay safe. If you want to be a cowboy place your pro.
A stick that is used to clip (usually) the first bolt of a sport climb from the ground so that even the opening moves are protected.
Some/many modern sport climbs are bolted with a high first bolt, with the expectation that it will be clipped with a stick clip. This is done, because it allows for safer clipping of the 2nd bolt, without having to make the 2nd bolt (and even 3rd bolt) very close to the previous bolt(s).
So, to call the climb a redpoint you cant "stick clip" any of the bolts?
That's what the debate, and the poll, in this thread is about.
My personal feeling -- stick-clipping the first bolt of a sport climb still allows one to claim a red-point or on-sight of the climb. Especially since many climbs are bolted with that expectation.
Why is Shelf special ? Been there a bunch of times and didn't think the first bolts were higher than usual, or the landing was worse, or the rock was more brittle.
Why is Shelf special ? Been there a bunch of times and didn't think the first bolts were higher than usual, or the landing was worse, or the rock was more brittle.
They're higher than a lot of places I climb, but I stick clip the first bolt unless I am sure that I won't fall before clipping it. Hitting the ground is never a "good landing," IMO.
I have only climbed for 2 years, and mostly at shelf and to flash or redpoint or onsight why not just have a spotter for that first bolt. Call the climb what it is.
(This post was edited by ShelfRoadNic on May 23, 2013, 6:29 PM)
They're higher than a lot of places I climb, but I stick clip the first bolt unless I am sure that I won't fall before clipping it. Hitting the ground is never a "good landing," IMO.
I associate Smith Rock with high first bolts. Barbecue The Pope for example.
I have only climbed for 2 years, and mostly at shelf and to flash or redpoint or onsight why not just have a spotter for that first bolt. Call the climb what it is.
They're higher than a lot of places I climb, but I stick clip the first bolt unless I am sure that I won't fall before clipping it. Hitting the ground is never a "good landing," IMO.
I associate Smith Rock with high first bolts. Barbecue The Pope for example.
They're higher than a lot of places I climb, but I stick clip the first bolt unless I am sure that I won't fall before clipping it. Hitting the ground is never a "good landing," IMO.
I associate Smith Rock with high first bolts. Barbecue The Pope for example.
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real commercial stick clip.
(This post was edited by milesenoell on May 24, 2013, 3:44 AM)
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
Yeah, cuz real sport climbers make their stick clips the traditional way. No, wait.
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
And I love the wads of tape left behind from these stick clips.
Honestly, if you're just happy with a pain in the ass stick at the bottom of the crag you obviously don't understand how to fully use a proper stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
Good to know. I was just worrying that there was not enough gritty authenticity in my climbing, maybe using a branch to pre-clip that first bolt of a 5.9 will help.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
Good to know. I was just worrying that there was not enough gritty authenticity in my climbing, maybe using a branch to pre-clip that first bolt of a 5.9 will help.
Woah, 5.9? I don't think most of us participating in this thread are at that elite level yet.
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
And I love the wads of tape left behind from these stick clips.
Honestly, if you're just happy with a pain in the ass stick at the bottom of the crag you obviously don't understand how to fully use a proper stick clip.
I've got an extendible painter's pole with a commercial stick-clip attachment at the end. I was very happy to have it with me at Rumney last weekend.
But, I started out old-school with a stick and tape. Though, I never left the wads of tape behind.
I was thinking of Smith, too. Several routes there that I wouldn't want to climb without stick clipping, but most have a long stick somewhere close so I have never had a problem with not bringing a real stick clip.
I might argue that that is a "real" stick clip. A piece of stick, fixed up with a bit of climbing tape is the real thing. These modern pre-made objects with extensible poles and pre-manufactured devices for holding the 'biner. They're just substitutes for a stick & some tape.
And I love the wads of tape left behind from these stick clips.
Honestly, if you're just happy with a pain in the ass stick at the bottom of the crag you obviously don't understand how to fully use a proper stick clip.
I've got an extendible painter's pole with a commercial stick-clip attachment at the end. I was very happy to have it with me at Rumney last weekend.
But, I started out old-school with a stick and tape. Though, I never left the wads of tape behind.
Then your not doing it right. More Trash FTW!
Now having reread this little thread, I realize a stick clip is exactly what I needed last fall. No pun intended. I had never passed up a climb before for the want of a stick, but yea, the LZ was a small boulder field. Plus there was a couple ledges just wide enough to flip the leader on his way down. The bolt was a litlle higher than I'm used to, so what the longest stick clip they make?
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
The bolt was a litlle higher than I'm used to, so what the longest stick clip they make?
From what I've seen, mostly they make a biner-holder attachment, and you supply your own pole. I've seen a variety of different things used for the poles, from tent-poles to painting poles to window-washing poles.
Trade-offs include weight, length, portability, collapsibility, rigidity, and cost.
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
I find that heavey is good because it means they're likely made of steel instead of aluminum. Al seems to have a lot more flex, which can be a real issue when you start trying to extend it out further.
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
Can they be screwed together, I need one about twice that long.
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
Can they be screwed together, I need one about twice that long.
I think that's just called top-roping! Seriously, what are you trying to clip that you need something 50-60 long? a 25 ft pole plus an average person reach should be able to clip something at 35 ft. More than enough for every 1st bolt (and a lot of 2nd bolts) that I've come across. I doubt you'd be able to control a stick that was 50 ft long anyway.
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
Can they be screwed together, I need one about twice that long.
I think that's just called top-roping! Seriously, what are you trying to clip that you need something 50-60 long? a 25 ft pole plus an average person reach should be able to clip something at 35 ft. More than enough for every 1st bolt (and a lot of 2nd bolts) that I've come across. I doubt you'd be able to control a stick that was 50 ft long anyway.
A lot of people think that longer sticks are cool, but they usually are just floppy and get in the way. Plus, I've heard that a lot of routes like a shorter stick, since it means the user must be more attentive. Not to mention, girth is just as important as length, which has not been discussed yet in here...
The longest I've seen are window washer poles. They're a bit heavy, but they extend pretty far. Not sure how long they make them, but one of my partners has one that is 25-30 ft.
Can they be screwed together, I need one about twice that long.
I think that's just called top-roping! Seriously, what are you trying to clip that you need something 50-60 long? a 25 ft pole plus an average person reach should be able to clip something at 35 ft. More than enough for every 1st bolt (and a lot of 2nd bolts) that I've come across. I doubt you'd be able to control a stick that was 50 ft long anyway.
Well no, it wouldn't be a TR. The route is longer than that. But yes I am concerned about it getting floppy.
Great thread. Can somebody get one going on the ethics and techniques of stacking up cheater stones?
I would say they are different. Pre-clipping a bolt reduces the risk of injury, while still doing the moves. Stacking cheater stones reduces the actual moves that need to be done.
They're higher than a lot of places I climb, but I stick clip the first bolt unless I am sure that I won't fall before clipping it. Hitting the ground is never a "good landing," IMO.
I associate Smith Rock with high first bolts. Barbecue The Pope for example.
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