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thatguyat99
Nov 28, 2008, 8:47 PM
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Yes...water.
Climbing Forbidden Peak and 1st mistake was
saying, "Oh we should knock this out pretty quick.
I'll just take 2 bottles of water and I'll be good."
Second mistake, "Oh we should knock this out pretty quick so I'm not going to take my headlamp."
Third mistake, "Oh we should knock this out pretty quick so I'm only going to bring my hardshell top and bottom and a fleece pullover."
Anyone see where this is going?
We were forced to take a different gully up to the
ridge because the snow couloir was out. Crazy, loose, dirty, hard to protect anything. Slowed us down
big time.Three pitches from the summit and clouds roll in. Visibility was about 5 feet...maybe.
We were already out of water for a few hours. Not to
mention out of food. Rapping down to the glacier was ...interesting. Our visual cue of what gully to take off of the glacier had changed due to warming during the day and snow sloughing off.
So, dehydrated, low blood sugar, confusion, cold. Oh and no headlamp...it's dark by now. Several hours of attempting to get off the glacier and we finally hunkered down in between some rocks laying on our packs and the rope using a plastic bag to try and trap heat in. And the excruciating cramps in our legs...we laughed at all the whining we were doing.
As the sun came up, the weather had cleared. We made it back to camp and ate and drank everything in sight. Stupid to be overconfident and lucky that the weather didn't get worse.
It was still a blast though.
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dan2see
Nov 28, 2008, 8:49 PM
Post #27 of 228
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
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The first time I tried a multi-pitch gear lead, and my second had no experience with gear. In fact his harness was tied from 1" webbing, and his running shoes would never run again.
On the ground, I handed an empty gear sling to my second, climbed up a corner to a traverse. For extra security before the traverse, I found a higher point for my nut. I did a good job protecting the traverse. Then at the big belay ledge, I found some big tree roots to tie onto, and brought up my buddy.
So he started after me. First thing was, the gear sling I handed him. I did not tie it properly, so when it fell apart, he had to down-climb to retieve the sling and a few pieces. Then the high-point nut was just higher than his reach, so we left it there. The traverse went OK. From the big belay ledge, I had no trouble getting over those tree roots, but he couldn't get the angle so I had to haul him out of there.
I made other mistakes, too. On our walk-off I really felt stupid. My partner allowed that we didn't get killed, so it must be OK.
Well at least I could see the experience as lessons learned. But these mistakes really were "dumb" because I should have foreseen them all.
-----------
Oh there was another "dumb" thing, recently: I was rapelling with prusik back-up. It worked so well! Even better, I'm ambi-dextrous, so I can switch hands anytime.
Going over the last overhang, I controlled my swing by gripping my left, and releasing my right (which worked a few minutes ago). I ended up on my back with a thud, and rope-burns, a neat pattern of blisters where the prusik was.
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uhoh
Nov 28, 2008, 10:43 PM
Post #28 of 228
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apeman_e wrote: So...I suspect that when many of us were learning to climb, we did some pretty stupid stuff i.e. complete misunderstanding of gear, concepts, physics, partners, ect. Also, some of us are just stupid. So come clean!- what is the dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing?
Used 1" tubular webbing to make a prussik which I then used to solo TR. Below that I did tie safety knots. No decking was involved but I was eventually told I shouldn't be doing that and picked up a gri-gri.
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zeth01
Nov 29, 2008, 1:17 AM
Post #29 of 228
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getting to the crag not warmed up and attempting to send a route that always kicks my ass. Attempt one was a nice cushy 15 foot fall. attempt two about to clip the top anchors overhanging on a crimp with one foot not so good and the other cammed in a horizontal crack ropes between my legs and i cant get it out fast enough so i rest for a moment with the rope still out and between my legs go for the clip again and the foot cam pops unexpectedly actually i expected it to. immediately upside down smacking back/head first into the wall near the first bolt. almost took out the belayer and myself. huge lump on my head. yeah this was today. last time i decide to leave my helmet at home.
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caughtinside
Nov 29, 2008, 5:49 AM
Post #30 of 228
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I climbed with this dude named zeke once. Man, was that a mistake!
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 5:51 AM
Post #31 of 228
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climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a 'thin' tree, and nothing else.
1 x anchor. Not very clever.
(This post was edited by rockie on Nov 30, 2008, 11:23 PM)
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 5:56 AM
Post #32 of 228
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Whoa there are some seriously near miss nutty things done on here.
I am not climbing with you! 
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zeke_sf
Nov 29, 2008, 5:56 AM
Post #33 of 228
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caughtinside wrote: I climbed with this dude named zeke once. Man, was that a mistake!
Well, heeding my own advice, I'll gracefully bow out of this confrontation...
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zeke_sf
Nov 29, 2008, 5:57 AM
Post #34 of 228
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rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever.
Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree!
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notapplicable
Nov 29, 2008, 6:17 AM
Post #36 of 228
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curt wrote: apeman_e wrote: ...So come clean!- what is the dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing? Caved in to peer pressure and went sport climbing.  Curt
Thats the kind of mistake that will haunt a man for years.
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:17 AM
Post #37 of 228
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notapplicable
Nov 29, 2008, 6:20 AM
Post #38 of 228
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zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree!
Thats what I was thinking. If trees are out then wedging myself between boulders is out, thats for sure.
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:23 AM
Post #39 of 228
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Parkerkat wrote: hahaha..couple new folks climbing with us once, and had seen them in the gym..seemed like they knew what they were doing..at least for top rope..so I set a top rope route for them outdoors, and asked if they were ok to go from there. They said yes, we've been outdoors before.. I double checked everything on them, Grigri, knots etc. Everything was fine. 10 minutes later as I'm on clip two of a new route down the way, I hear screams for help!..Rap down, run over as fast as I could, only to fine one of them clinging for dear life at the top of the route, while the belayer kept pulling out armfulls of slack!.. She thought the grigri didn't look "right"? ..WTF? and wanted to pull the rope out and re-thread it!!! (which would have been the wrong way had she done it!!!)..and get this, she couldn't figure out how to undo a screw locking biner!...so in the end, you have a moron who can't open a biner, while a climber at the top is in tears clinging for her life while the rope has pretty much been pulled out of the belay device! - had to slap my gri on quickfast and belay her down myself.. Lets just say I learned to pick trip buddies a little better now!
wow! Lol, that's nuts.
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zeke_sf
Nov 29, 2008, 6:23 AM
Post #40 of 228
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notapplicable wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Thats what I was thinking. If trees are out then wedging myself between boulders is out, thats for sure.
Wedging is solid! What do I know though, I didn't take any lead courses...
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:25 AM
Post #41 of 228
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zeke_sf
Nov 29, 2008, 6:27 AM
Post #42 of 228
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rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Just one anchor point is a very stupid mistake, especially when it's a tree (edited to add that last point).
Well, that means you can't ever use a tree as an anchor - or even part of your anchor. If you don't trust them at all, then you certainly shouldn't anchor to a piece that, if it failed, would pull you and your other piece(s) right off the mountain.
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notapplicable
Nov 29, 2008, 6:44 AM
Post #43 of 228
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rockie wrote: notapplicable wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Thats what I was thinking. If trees are out then wedging myself between boulders is out, thats for sure. 
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:46 AM
Post #44 of 228
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zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Just one anchor point is a very stupid mistake, especially when it's a tree (edited to add that last point). Well, that means you can't ever use a tree as an anchor - or even part of your anchor. If you don't trust them at all, then you certainly shouldn't anchor to a piece that, if it failed, would pull you and your other piece(s) right off the mountain.
Where in there does it state I never use a tree as an anchor point?
Kindly don't put words in my mouth just because you assume things. Let me spell it out one more time for you as you didn't understand the first time obviously:
One anchor point, thin non-solid tree, is a pretty stupid thing to do.
(This post was edited by rockie on Nov 30, 2008, 11:28 PM)
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Goo
Nov 29, 2008, 6:47 AM
Post #45 of 228
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i was rapping down from a pair of back up anchors at the top of a cliff about 30 feet down to another pair of anchors to set up a tr on this overhang... well, i rapped about 5-10 feet past the chains, and i didnt want to go all the way down and have to hike up again, so i decided to take my hand off the rope and climb back up that 10 feet (wearing my chacos, mind you)... and one of the holds above the anchors right at the top was really mossy and was just soil... good times. would have been about a 50 foot fall. but there were huge jugs for holds.
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:49 AM
Post #46 of 228
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And zeke if you still don't understand, maybe take a year out to think it over, by then you may realise what I am saying, I'd rather you think about it than my have to tell you why though.
It is good to use brain cells, a lot.
Using them even often makes you sharper, seriously.
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notapplicable
Nov 29, 2008, 6:52 AM
Post #47 of 228
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zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Just one anchor point is a very stupid mistake, especially when it's a tree (edited to add that last point). Well, that means you can't ever use a tree as an anchor - or even part of your anchor. If you don't trust them at all, then you certainly shouldn't anchor to a piece that, if it failed, would pull you and your other piece(s) right off the mountain.
Don't listen to him Rockie, he's never even had professional instruction in these matters.
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 6:53 AM
Post #48 of 228
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notapplicable
Nov 29, 2008, 6:59 AM
Post #49 of 228
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rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Just one anchor point is a very stupid mistake, especially when it's a tree (edited to add that last point). Well, that means you can't ever use a tree as an anchor - or even part of your anchor. If you don't trust them at all, then you certainly shouldn't anchor to a piece that, if it failed, would pull you and your other piece(s) right off the mountain. Where in there does it state I never use a tree as an anchor point? Kindly don't put words in my mouth just because you assume things. Let me spell it out one more time for you as you didn't understand the first time obviously: One anchor point, namely a tree, is a pretty stupid thing to do.
What about this guy, would you belay off that?
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rockie
Nov 29, 2008, 7:04 AM
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notapplicable wrote: rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: zeke_sf wrote: rockie wrote: climbed outdoors on trad with someone who hadn't done a lead course, who anchored to a tree, and nothing else. 1 x anchor. Not very clever. Trees are some of the best anchors out there if they are solid. They're considered to be as solid as, well, a friggin' tree! Just one anchor point is a very stupid mistake, especially when it's a tree (edited to add that last point). Well, that means you can't ever use a tree as an anchor - or even part of your anchor. If you don't trust them at all, then you certainly shouldn't anchor to a piece that, if it failed, would pull you and your other piece(s) right off the mountain. Where in there does it state I never use a tree as an anchor point? Kindly don't put words in my mouth just because you assume things. Let me spell it out one more time for you as you didn't understand the first time obviously: One anchor point, namely a tree, is a pretty stupid thing to do. What about this guy, would you belay off that?
Well it doesn't look like it is dying, or rotten. But I'd have to see it for real to know for sure 
It looks solid from where I am sitting, so that's a good sign.
It isn't too thin either, and it doesn't look loose at the roots, but again, I'd have to see it for real to be sure.
Still, I'd like to use 1-2 other anchor points besides this one, but if that was all I had.. and as long as it is assessed perfectly bomber, by me of course, then just maybe I would.
There is a tree at Squamish someone anchored us to, I got up to it and it was loose, seriously that one is going to come out at some point, and if people are not aware of it or aware to use other anchor points and just want to rely on that one, zeke! then they are going to likely die.
(This post was edited by rockie on Nov 30, 2008, 11:21 PM)
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