|
bill413
Jun 24, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #26 of 33
(3917 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
steple wrote: angry wrote: steple wrote: hafilax wrote: steple wrote: I don't see any safety problems with using a quick link / maillon rapide. The suck for the next person on the climb especially the ones that aren't stainless steel and rust shut. I came across a few and I never had a problem. But maybe I was just lucky :) You're either not onsighting the route or you're ignorant of the forces that a quicklink between the rock and biner can cause. Unless the routes are dead easy, you aren't removing quicklink without hanging, even if it's not rusted shut. If you just place your biner below the ql?
PITA
Another thing to juggle
|
|
|
|
|
mikebarter387
Jul 3, 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #27 of 33
(3830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 237
|
I have to admit to leaving a few bail biners behind. When bailing from high up on a sport route and had to back clean the draws below me I was never real comfortable just being on a lone unlocking biner. Uncomfort level increased with each draw I removed. Course it would level out when I would hit the deck no matter what if for some reason that that biner opened or failed.
What I would do is take the identi-tape off of the biner and wrap it around the key stock portion of the making it more like a locker. Leaving a locker seemed a little expensive. This eased my mind a bit.
I realise that you are talking about sport climbing but I used to leave a biner in the alpine preplanned. I'll share this little trick that was a time saver. There were several places that I could use it but the most common place was on Mt Assiniboine. Coming down from the summit about three quarters of the way to the Red Band there was this short unavoidable wall. Running from mid day thunder storms was the norm up there so when I got to this place I would lower my client down quick as a bunny, then have the client stay tied in and stand where I could see him/her then quickly clip my rope into a leaver biner (taped at the gate) threw down the remaining coils and wrapped down on a single strand counter weighting off of the confused looking client.
We would be back and moving in less time then it would take me to set up a rap let alone get us both down. There were several places in the Rockies where I would do that. Since I made habit of stealing other peoples gear it was never a big loss.
I am the red headed step child of rockclimbing.com and the guys who beat me up on one of the other threads will find me here and of course point out the flaws of this procedure. Add it to your alpine quiver if you like, or not.
The Mike
(This post was edited by mikebarter387 on Jul 3, 2009, 1:22 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Jul 3, 2009, 1:45 AM
Post #28 of 33
(3807 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
mikebarter387 wrote: I have to admit to leaving a few bail biners behind. When bailing from high up on a sport route and had to back clean the draws below me I was never real comfortable just being on a lone unlocking biner. Uncomfort level increased with each draw I removed. Course it would level out when I would hit the deck no matter what if for some reason that that biner opened or failed.
To avoid this, I attach a cinch to the rope going back to the belayer, so that it locks when pulled away from the belayer. If the bail biner or bolt were to fail as I'm being lowered, I would just take a lead fall, and the cinch would catch me at the next bolt below me. Essentially all it is doing is isolating that huge loop of slack you are creating above you, by keeping you "attached" to the rope going directly to the belayer. A lot of devices could be used for this, but I would stay away from anything with teeth, and a grigri would be tough because you can't load it on a weighted rope.
|
|
|
|
|
mikebarter387
Jul 3, 2009, 1:50 AM
Post #29 of 33
(3805 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 237
|
That's pretty smart
|
|
|
|
|
yankinoz
Jul 3, 2009, 3:21 AM
Post #30 of 33
(3779 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2007
Posts: 35
|
a prussic might work for the same trick. interesting.
oh - I picked up one bail quick link off a route and have since discarded it after it started rusting on my harness. I keep my shoes on an old oval and when i climb the oval is on my harness as potential bail gear. Haven't had to use it. yet.
(This post was edited by yankinoz on Jul 3, 2009, 3:23 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
mikebarter387
Jul 3, 2009, 12:07 PM
Post #31 of 33
(3740 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 237
|
I was thinking a sewn runner wrapped in a Kliemhiest. Like I said that is a pretty nifty trick. Think I will make a video of that and take credit for inventing it.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Jul 4, 2009, 12:08 AM
Post #32 of 33
(3708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
mikebarter387 wrote: Running from mid day thunder storms was the norm up there so when I got to this place I would lower my client down quick as a bunny, then have the client stay tied in and stand where I could see him/her then quickly clip my rope into a leaver biner (taped at the gate) threw down the remaining coils and wrapped down on a single strand counter weighting off of the confused looking client.
Well, if I were your client and that was done to me with no prior explanation, you would not be rehired. With explanation, it's a counter-weight rappel. Without, it's abuse of your client's trust.
In reply to: Since I made habit of stealing other peoples gear it was never a big loss.
Parking lot break-ins now explained.
(This post was edited by bill413 on Jul 4, 2009, 12:08 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Jul 4, 2009, 1:04 AM
Post #33 of 33
(3689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
mikebarter387 wrote: I was thinking a sewn runner wrapped in a Kliemhiest. Like I said that is a pretty nifty trick. Think I will make a video of that and take credit for inventing it. Since I made habit of stealing other peoples gear it was never a big loss.
Woah, we got a kleptomaniac on our hands here!
|
|
|
|
|
|
