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sungam
Aug 20, 2009, 1:47 AM
Post #26 of 64
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EvilMonkey wrote: sungam wrote: ryanb wrote: I don't climb ice very often (not since i made the switch to foam come to think of it) and tend towards steeper and cleaner rock routes. These also tend to have harder free moves and as such i feel flipping in a fall is a bigger worry then getting hit with anything. Well, that's fair enough then. I guess whenever I think of alpine climbing I also think of ice climbing as part of that. I guess on stuff like hard routes in the Bugaboos a foam helmet would be best, but when I think of alpine, I always think of Ben Nevis ice rain and Caingorm death blocks. of course, if you do get smoked by a rock/ice or bangy your mellon in a fall, i bet you'd rather have a helmet that doesn't need to be replaced mid-route. +99 for carrying an extra foam helmet on your harness incase the other gets cracked. -10 if helmet has cool stickers that are all scratched to shit.
Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour:
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Guran
Aug 20, 2009, 8:14 AM
Post #27 of 64
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sungam wrote: Fine additions omfgwtf@ me forgetting to put something in about tools and poons, but "stunned by the view"... First time to, say, the Bugaboos always stuns. It's just so freaking awesome.
Nuff said.
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sungam
Aug 20, 2009, 5:13 PM
Post #28 of 64
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Guran wrote: sungam wrote: Fine additions omfgwtf@ me forgetting to put something in about tools and poons, but "stunned by the view"... First time to, say, the Bugaboos always stuns. It's just so freaking awesome. Nuff said.
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EvilMonkey
Aug 20, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #29 of 64
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In reply to: I prefer sticker free helmets. If I'm going to have a bunch of stupid advertisement stickers on my helmet, I better be getting fucking paid to. Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour:
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sungam
Aug 20, 2009, 7:06 PM
Post #30 of 64
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EvilMonkey wrote: In reply to: I prefer sticker free helmets. If I'm going to have a bunch of stupid advertisement stickers on my helmet, I better be getting fucking paid to. Anyways, I don't wanna cover up the sexy pink colour: you make a good arguement. if my helmet was pink, i wouldn't cover it in stickers either. why waste good stickers on a helmet i'd never wear in public? +10 for spelling color with a "u".
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gmggg
Aug 20, 2009, 7:16 PM
Post #31 of 64
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sungam wrote: -5 for lamented cut out.
What if you're not sorry that you cut it out?
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sungam
Aug 20, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #32 of 64
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gmggg wrote: sungam wrote: -5 for lamented cut out. What if you're not sorry that you cut it out?
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adnix
Aug 21, 2009, 3:04 PM
Post #33 of 64
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sungam wrote: You know the drill. Risk Factor 2: Footwear Trendy approach shoes +15 points Risk factor 4: Belay devices Any autolocker +25 points risk factor 5: rack +10 points for each cam below camalot .5, unless specially needed Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness no "oh shit" beaner +25 Risk factor 7: topo +10 for full book Risk factor 8: clothing +50 for each piece of cotton clothing (unless it's a T in the backpack for a summit shot) Risk factor 10: pack +15 if there's no removable backplate. >100 = cutz the rope and run >75 = newb >50 = sketch >25 = iffy >0 sounds good 0 or less - good partner. <-50 fuck yeah.
I failed your n00b test at 160 points.
Approach shoes to save weight (on most routes). Does ATC Guide count for autolocking? Camalots 0.3 and 0.4 are very handy on rock pitches. I used them both on the first pitch of Fitzroy for crack jumaring and they are very light weight. Oh shit biner is extra weight - I can afford to leave my ultra-lights. I always carry a full book in case I get off route. I love my old school army cotton shirt although I know it takes ages to dry. Why would I need a removable backplate?
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glahhg
Aug 21, 2009, 5:30 PM
Post #34 of 64
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Okay I'll try this.
sungam wrote: You know the drill. Risk factor 1: Helmet Foam only helmet +25 points Non-climbing helmet +100 points
In reply to: Risk Factor 2: Footwear Trendy approach shoes +15 points Plastics +5 points Has to remove climbing shoes during route from fit, +25 points cotton socks +25 points
In reply to: Risk factor 3: Harness Less then 4 gear loops +n points, where n= 4-number of loops
In reply to: Risk factor 4: Belay devices Any autolocker +25 points
In reply to: risk factor 5: rack Uneccasary cams - +10 points for each cam above camalot 3 or below camalot .5, unless specially needed Hexes, as replacment for 2nd set of cams -25 points, uneeded, +25 points Nuts -5 points for having WC ultralights in the smaller sizes. +10 points for each sport draw. +5points if they double up their double shoulder length slings and put them over their should instead of clipping them to themselves around the shoulder for easy removal. +50 points for any gear they haven't already used twice (not the exact piece, but that type).
And fuck hexes. If you're sending hard down in the lowlands without them (and if you're sending hard, you're not using them) then why would take them up to send hard in the alpine? I'll trade some weight for the speed and efficiency of cams. Guess I get +25 for that.
-5 for WC ultralight nuts.
+40
In reply to: Risk factor 6: uneccasary shit on harness Nalgene +5 pertex windcheater (a la montane) clipped to the back -5 no "oh shit" beaner +25 chalkbag attached with anything but full-strength cord or bootlace +15 Daisy chains wrapped around +10
In reply to: Risk factor 7: topo +10 for full book +5 for torn out page -5 for lamented cut out. -another 5 points if they already read over it several times and barely have to glance at it.
In reply to: Risk factor 8: clothing +50 for each piece of cotton clothing (unless it's a T in the backpack for a summit shot) +15 if they start the approach with all their clothes on. +10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag +5 for cheapo walking poles
In reply to: risk factor 9: facial hair full beard to protect them from the elements -15 skinny mustache +5 Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too) sideburns +5 -5 if it's grey.
In reply to: Risk factor 10: pack -25 if it's cold cold world or gilogear +10 if it has side pockets +5 for each thing hanging off the side. +10 if it's not made by a reputable brand +15 if there's no removable backplate.
In reply to: >100 = cutz the rope and run >75 = newb >50 = sketch >25 = iffy >0 sounds good 0 or less - good partner. <-50 fuck yeah.
Looks like I get 38.
I think you need to focus more on stuff like wearing your helmet, boots, and carrying ice axe around town, wearing matching softshells, and spraying a lot.
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 5:42 PM
Post #35 of 64
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adnix wrote: I failed your n00b test at 160 points. Approach shoes to save weight (on most routes). Does ATC Guide count for autolocking? Camalots 0.3 and 0.4 are very handy on rock pitches. I used them both on the first pitch of Fitzroy for crack jumaring and they are very light weight. Oh shit biner is extra weight - I can afford to leave my ultra-lights. I always carry a full book in case I get off route. I love my old school army cotton shirt although I know it takes ages to dry. Why would I need a removable backplate?
Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes. and yes (when I'm in good shape) I probably can keep up with you in my boots.
ATC guide is not autolocking, by that I meant grigri or cinch or eddy etc.
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 5:57 PM
Post #36 of 64
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Another note - I wasn't actually serious when I wrote this I just wanted to write about the facial hair, which I thought was hilarious.
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welle
Aug 21, 2009, 6:07 PM
Post #37 of 64
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glahhg wrote: Okay I'll try this. sungam wrote: risk factor 9: facial hair full beard to protect them from the elements -15 skinny mustache +5 Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too) sideburns +5 -5 if it's grey. +0
Kain style skinny mustache with sideburns?
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 6:10 PM
Post #38 of 64
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welle wrote: glahhg wrote: Okay I'll try this. sungam wrote: risk factor 9: facial hair full beard to protect them from the elements -15 skinny mustache +5 Kain style mustache -10 (-another 10 if they rock the pipe Kain style, too) sideburns +5 -5 if it's grey. +0 Kain style skinny mustache with sideburns?
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welle
Aug 21, 2009, 6:17 PM
Post #39 of 64
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I know what Kain looks like. I was just having fun with numbers...
skinny mustache +5
Kain style mustache -10
sideburns +5
equals zero :)
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 6:28 PM
Post #40 of 64
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welle wrote: I know what Kain looks like. I was just having fun with numbers... skinny mustache +5 Kain style mustache -10 sideburns +5 equals zero :)
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nattfodd
Aug 21, 2009, 6:59 PM
Post #41 of 64
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sungam wrote: +10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag
Just being curious, why the hate towards down jackets? I tend to get cold easily at altitude, and sure loved having one for walking around camp or even during breaks in the day.
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 11:10 PM
Post #42 of 64
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nattfodd wrote: sungam wrote: +10 for anything down filled other then sleepingbag Just being curious, why the hate towards down jackets? I tend to get cold easily at altitude, and sure loved having one for walking around camp or even during breaks in the day.
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dreday3000
Aug 21, 2009, 11:21 PM
Post #43 of 64
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EvilMonkey wrote: -10 if helmet has cool stickers that are all scratched to shit.
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adnix
Aug 22, 2009, 6:07 AM
Post #44 of 64
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sungam wrote: Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes.
This summer I also saw a guy glissading 30-40 degree snow couloir wearing Guide Tennies. He definitely was no beginner.
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sungam
Aug 22, 2009, 6:21 AM
Post #45 of 64
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adnix wrote: sungam wrote: Again, with the approach shoes - if it's rock with an easy approach then those are fine, but if there are glaciers or ice involved, then I don't wanna sit around while you switch to yore approach shoes. This summer I also saw a guy glissading 30-40 degree snow couloir wearing Guide Tennies. He definitely was no beginner.
Not even the very best climber with the most experiance can climb steep ice or neve quickly and efficiently in approach shoes.
Now, I should specify - if it's rock only, then I want to see a good pair of approach shoes. no boots please.
Especially if we're sharing a 2nd's pack with all our crap in it. My walshes weigh fuck all and take up no space - I don't wanna have to carry your heavy fucking giant boots around just because you can't walk right.
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kheegster
Aug 22, 2009, 10:21 AM
Post #46 of 64
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Registered: May 14, 2009
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Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts
No friends died climbing? 100 pts
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nattfodd
Aug 22, 2009, 2:48 PM
Post #47 of 64
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kheegster wrote: Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts No friends died climbing? 100 pts
Great, at last some easy way to lower my score!
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sungam
Aug 24, 2009, 12:19 AM
Post #48 of 64
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kheegster wrote: Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts No friends died climbing? 100 pts
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uni_jim
Aug 24, 2009, 1:12 AM
Post #49 of 64
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nattfodd wrote: kheegster wrote: Number of friends who died climbing: N x -50 pts No friends died climbing? 100 pts Great, at last some easy way to lower my score!
you are both assholes.
edited to include both of you.
(This post was edited by uni_jim on Aug 24, 2009, 1:38 AM)
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nattfodd
Aug 24, 2009, 9:29 AM
Post #50 of 64
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You can laugh about anything, but not with everyone. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Desproges)
Chill. It's of bad taste, sure, but it's also just a joke.
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