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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:01 AM
Post #33976 of 45342
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing?
As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point.
I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it.
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:03 AM
Post #33977 of 45342
(3482 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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Subbed gym today. It was pretty fun. I played lots of basketball with women's reg balls on eight and half foot nets. I can dunk on those with ease. I played one vs three against kindergarteners, and they beat me. They also had a 7 foot net on top of a 4 foot net, so they got double points if the ball went through both. They also didn't quite get the concept of dribbling. Still pretty fun though.
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:04 AM
Post #33978 of 45342
(3481 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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*scroll scroll scroll*
This pack talk is getting out of hand
*scroll scroll scroll*
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:07 AM
Post #33979 of 45342
(3479 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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I start a new job tomorrow. For a month straight I will be grading eight grade standardized test essays from dawn till dusk. I will miss the kids dearly, but the pay is way better.
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:10 AM
Post #33980 of 45342
(3478 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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notapplicable wrote: *scroll scroll scroll* This pack talk is getting out of hand *scroll scroll scroll*
Agree 100%. I live in GA, what do I care?
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:12 AM
Post #33982 of 45342
(3475 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing? As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point. I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it.
It was my understanding Lama freed the new route. I think the old route was much harder than 8a.
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:12 AM
Post #33983 of 45342
(3474 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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Do Canadians get Dragon Ball Z references?
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:15 AM
Post #33984 of 45342
(3470 views)
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notapplicable wrote: Do Canadians get Dragon Ball Z references?
I certainly do? So much of my childhood wasted/extremely well spent.
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:15 AM
Post #33985 of 45342
(3469 views)
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: *scroll scroll scroll* This pack talk is getting out of hand *scroll scroll scroll* Agree 100%. I live in GA, what do I care?
Is true.
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:18 AM
Post #33986 of 45342
(3466 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing? As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point. I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it. It was my understanding Lama freed the new route. I think the old route was much harder than 8a.
Thanks. I skimmed an article before heading to work this morning and didn't pick up on that. I'm gonna go do a bit of reading.
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:20 AM
Post #33987 of 45342
(3463 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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johnwesely wrote: I start a new job tomorrow. For a month straight I will be grading eight grade standardized test essays from dawn till dusk. I will miss the kids dearly, but the pay is way better.
Shouldn't you be out climbing? You can get a job once you move.
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erisspirit
Jan 24, 2012, 12:21 AM
Post #33988 of 45342
(3460 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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notapplicable wrote: *scroll scroll scroll* This pack talk is getting out of hand *scroll scroll scroll*
woo! gear!
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:25 AM
Post #33989 of 45342
(3459 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: I start a new job tomorrow. For a month straight I will be grading eight grade standardized test essays from dawn till dusk. I will miss the kids dearly, but the pay is way better. Shouldn't you be out climbing? You can get a job once you move.
I gotta pay the bills!!
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Kartessa
Jan 24, 2012, 12:35 AM
Post #33990 of 45342
(3454 views)
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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johnwesely wrote: You know how I know I love my dog. She just decided to poop a lime green turd the consistency of snot on my cams, and I didn't even get mad. The parents can relate I hope.
No, my son had a bad case of diarrhea on Saturday, he pretty much exploded poop in his underwear. It was all over his pants, socks, shirt... I threw a fit, then tossed all his clothes in the trash.
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:36 AM
Post #33991 of 45342
(3451 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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Kartessa wrote: johnwesely wrote: You know how I know I love my dog. She just decided to poop a lime green turd the consistency of snot on my cams, and I didn't even get mad. The parents can relate I hope. No, my son had a bad case of diarrhea on Saturday, he pretty much exploded poop in his underwear. It was all over his pants, socks, shirt... I threw a fit, then tossed all his clothes in the trash.
You should have hosed him down.
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Kartessa
Jan 24, 2012, 12:39 AM
Post #33992 of 45342
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: *scroll scroll scroll* This pack talk is getting out of hand *scroll scroll scroll* Agree 100%. I live in GA, what do I care?
I'm in a cold, rainy and flat wasteland. My one and only 50L pack is all I'll ever want or need
Fuck you, Californians!
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Kartessa
Jan 24, 2012, 12:40 AM
Post #33993 of 45342
(3445 views)
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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notapplicable wrote: Do Canadians get Dragon Ball Z references?
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Kartessa
Jan 24, 2012, 12:41 AM
Post #33994 of 45342
(3443 views)
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
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johnwesely wrote: Kartessa wrote: johnwesely wrote: You know how I know I love my dog. She just decided to poop a lime green turd the consistency of snot on my cams, and I didn't even get mad. The parents can relate I hope. No, my son had a bad case of diarrhea on Saturday, he pretty much exploded poop in his underwear. It was all over his pants, socks, shirt... I threw a fit, then tossed all his clothes in the trash. You should have hosed him down.
I did... After I burned his clothes
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Lazlo
Jan 24, 2012, 12:44 AM
Post #33995 of 45342
(3440 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
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notapplicable wrote: Do Canadians get Dragon Ball Z references?
Lol. Awesome!
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:48 AM
Post #33996 of 45342
(3435 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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Kartessa wrote: notapplicable wrote: Do Canadians get Dragon Ball Z references? I've watched nearly every episode, but in French, so I'm confused.
Notapplicable, what does the scouter say about his power level?
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notapplicable
Jan 24, 2012, 12:49 AM
Post #33997 of 45342
(3434 views)
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing? As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point. I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it. It was my understanding Lama freed the new route. I think the old route was much harder than 8a.
Just found this on the Taco.
David Lama via Facebook wrote: I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true! My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm. We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi. Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col. To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better! |
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erisspirit
Jan 24, 2012, 12:50 AM
Post #33998 of 45342
(3432 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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johnwesely wrote: You know how I know I love my dog. She just decided to poop a lime green turd the consistency of snot on my cams, and I didn't even get mad. The parents can relate I hope.
The last time my cat pooped everywhere I cried...
it was on the floor, chairs, end tables, couch, the cat...
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johnwesely
Jan 24, 2012, 12:53 AM
Post #33999 of 45342
(3404 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing? As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point. I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it. It was my understanding Lama freed the new route. I think the old route was much harder than 8a. Just found this on the Taco. David Lama via Facebook wrote: I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true! My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm. We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi. Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col. To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better!
Cool. I just read the blurb on Ukclimbing this morning. This is much more detailed.
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Lazlo
Jan 24, 2012, 1:25 AM
Post #34000 of 45342
(3396 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
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notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: notapplicable wrote: donald949 wrote: notapplicable wrote: sungam wrote: notapplicable wrote: Compressor Route got the chop!! It's been a long time coming but I'm still a little surprised someone had the balls to actually do it. Crazy stuff. Yerp. I am happy Cerro Torre is kinda back to a more grand state, but it kinda killed any dream I had of sending it. hehehe It's only 5.11 A2. Get on that Shit! ReallY. I thought it was mostly a A0 bolt ladder. Not suprised some goes at A2. And then there is the ice summit, which the compressor didn't summit. Speaking of which did they bring down the compressor? And to what degree did the route get the chop? All the bolts? Most of them, leaving 5.11 A2 climbing? As I understand it, they climbed the SE Ridge and skipped large portions of the route dedicated to the bolt ladder. David Lama apparently just freed the Compressor Route proper but details on what pro he used is pretty vague at this point. I would assume the compressor is still there. I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now if they had trundled it. It was my understanding Lama freed the new route. I think the old route was much harder than 8a. Just found this on the Taco. David Lama via Facebook wrote: I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true! My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January 19th from El Chalten and hiked in to Nipo Nino, our first camp. The next morning we climbed up to the Col de la Paciencia, rested there for a few hours and then started our attempt at around 1pm. We climbed to the start of the Bolt Traverse, but instead of turning right, we went straight up on the technically difficult arete, a few meters left of the Salvaterra crack. I took a couple of falls, until I figured out the right sequence and then was able to send the pitch on my second try from the belay. A few pitches higher we reached the Iced Towers, where we picked a small ledge into an icefield to bivi. Early the next morning we climbed to the start of the headwall. The fact that Hayden and Jason had chopped Maestri’s bolts a couple of days ago made my endeavour even more challenging, especially mentally as the protection was poor and I had to do long run outs. Climbing on hollow and loose flakes we followed the original Compressor route for three pitches. About 20 meters below the compressor we traversed to the right and then reached a system of cracks and corners that lead us to the summit. Climbing the route in alpine style took us 24 hours from the Col. To me this first free ascent of the south east ridge of Cerro Torre is the end to the probably greatest adventure I experienced in my life so far. I’m especially proud having it done without adding any bolts. I learned a lot during the past years and climbing in this amazing mountain range has simply been great. Realizing dreams – it couldn’t be any better!
I'm a step ahead of you. I read it on facebook.
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