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Urban_Cowboy
Nov 22, 2009, 4:50 AM
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Bowline on a bight can work to equalize at the anchor. Also been taught as an improvised emergency harness when rescuing a "gecko", one leg in each loop.
Here's a picture of the three that have been discussed thus far:
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angry
Nov 22, 2009, 12:09 PM
Post #27 of 177
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The best part of this thread is that no matter how long it goes, noone is learning anything.
It's knotsurbation.
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Urban_Cowboy
Nov 22, 2009, 1:30 PM
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angry wrote: The best part of this thread is that no matter how long it goes, noone is learning anything. It's knotsurbation. 
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acorneau
Nov 22, 2009, 2:15 PM
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Urban_Cowboy wrote: Interesting come-back...I've never seen anyone tie in with a bowline ON a bight, which makes me think you might be lying...besides the fact that you can't tie in to the "hard points" without doing it as a retrace/follow-through, which makes it a serious PITA.
Retraced or not, it's still a bowline on a bight. If you want to give it another name then just let me know.
But no, it's not a PITA at all, takes just as long as a Fig-8 follow-through.
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mikebarter387
Nov 22, 2009, 4:49 PM
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That could have been me except I was kicked out of boy scouts. Got caught eating a Brownie.
Having said that, I wouldn't want to meet this guy in a dark alley!!
I am sure that the local law enforcement would like to have a look at his hard drive.
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moose_droppings
Nov 22, 2009, 5:31 PM
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acorneau wrote: altelis wrote: I've heard of people using the bowline on a bight as a way to equalize two pieces when creating an anchor with the rope....any body know about this? Absolutely. In John Long's books they call it the "atomic clip" when used on two bolts. I used it as a trad anchor last September in the Wichita's. (Sorry, no picture.) Edit: found someone's RC.com pic: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...lay_setup_38320.html [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/162391-largest_38320.jpg[/image]
I've used bunny ears (double figure 8 loop) to equalize 2 points.
Bunny Ears.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Nov 22, 2009, 5:34 PM)
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sbaclimber
Nov 22, 2009, 7:41 PM
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As always, an entertaining video! 
That being said, and all other points already mentioned aside, I ask you....why do you make this statement, more than once....!!??
"I do not wanna see you using any ..... modified ... sort of bowline to tie into your harness"
I use a figure-8, for all the obvious reasons, but a lot of people I climb with (in Germany) use a double bowline to tie in.
Why, in your opinion, is this knot not valid as a tie-in??
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 22, 2009, 7:43 PM)
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Urban_Cowboy
Nov 22, 2009, 9:49 PM
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acorneau wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: Interesting come-back...I've never seen anyone tie in with a bowline ON a bight, which makes me think you might be lying...besides the fact that you can't tie in to the "hard points" without doing it as a retrace/follow-through, which makes it a serious PITA. Retraced or not, it's still a bowline on a bight. If you want to give it another name then just let me know. But no, it's not a PITA at all, takes just as long as a Fig-8 follow-through.
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ski.ninja
Nov 22, 2009, 10:09 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: As always, an entertaining video! That being said, and all other points already mentioned aside, I ask you....why do you make this statement, more than once....!!?? "I do not wanna see you using any ..... modified ... sort of bowline to tie into your harness" I use a figure-8, for all the obvious reasons, but a lot of people I climb with (in Germany) use a double bowline to tie in. Why, in your opinion, is this knot not valid as a tie-in??
If I were to tie in with a bowline, that's probably how I'd do it. However, bowlines are tricky to check to see if they're tied properly. For example, that double bowline with the tail running up through the bight again is virtually identical to a single bowline with a Yosemite finish. I've been tying bowlines long enough that I could probably get away with it, but the figure 8 retrace is a lot easier to tie when I'm tired. The benefits might be a knot that's easier to get loose after a big fall, but the complications involved don't make it attractive to me.
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johnwesely
Nov 22, 2009, 10:35 PM
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ski.ninja wrote: sbaclimber wrote: As always, an entertaining video! That being said, and all other points already mentioned aside, I ask you....why do you make this statement, more than once....!!?? "I do not wanna see you using any ..... modified ... sort of bowline to tie into your harness" I use a figure-8, for all the obvious reasons, but a lot of people I climb with (in Germany) use a double bowline to tie in. Why, in your opinion, is this knot not valid as a tie-in?? If I were to tie in with a bowline, that's probably how I'd do it. However, bowlines are tricky to check to see if they're tied properly. For example, that double bowline with the tail running up through the bight again is virtually identical to a single bowline with a Yosemite finish. I've been tying bowlines long enough that I could probably get away with it, but the figure 8 retrace is a lot easier to tie when I'm tired. The benefits might be a knot that's easier to get loose after a big fall, but the complications involved don't make it attractive to me.
If you tie it right, it looks like the Rolling Stones tongue. Problem solved.
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sungam
Nov 22, 2009, 10:40 PM
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johnwesely wrote: ski.ninja wrote: sbaclimber wrote: As always, an entertaining video! That being said, and all other points already mentioned aside, I ask you....why do you make this statement, more than once....!!?? "I do not wanna see you using any ..... modified ... sort of bowline to tie into your harness" I use a figure-8, for all the obvious reasons, but a lot of people I climb with (in Germany) use a double bowline to tie in. Why, in your opinion, is this knot not valid as a tie-in?? If I were to tie in with a bowline, that's probably how I'd do it. However, bowlines are tricky to check to see if they're tied properly. For example, that double bowline with the tail running up through the bight again is virtually identical to a single bowline with a Yosemite finish. I've been tying bowlines long enough that I could probably get away with it, but the figure 8 retrace is a lot easier to tie when I'm tired. The benefits might be a knot that's easier to get loose after a big fall, but the complications involved don't make it attractive to me. If you tie it right, it looks like the Rolling Stones tongue. Problem solved.  I love you, man.
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johnwesely
Nov 22, 2009, 10:50 PM
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sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: ski.ninja wrote: sbaclimber wrote: As always, an entertaining video! That being said, and all other points already mentioned aside, I ask you....why do you make this statement, more than once....!!?? "I do not wanna see you using any ..... modified ... sort of bowline to tie into your harness" I use a figure-8, for all the obvious reasons, but a lot of people I climb with (in Germany) use a double bowline to tie in. Why, in your opinion, is this knot not valid as a tie-in?? If I were to tie in with a bowline, that's probably how I'd do it. However, bowlines are tricky to check to see if they're tied properly. For example, that double bowline with the tail running up through the bight again is virtually identical to a single bowline with a Yosemite finish. I've been tying bowlines long enough that I could probably get away with it, but the figure 8 retrace is a lot easier to tie when I'm tired. The benefits might be a knot that's easier to get loose after a big fall, but the complications involved don't make it attractive to me. If you tie it right, it looks like the Rolling Stones tongue. Problem solved. I love you, man.
I never was very good with math, so it is easier for me to check the bowline than the eight.
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jaablink
Nov 22, 2009, 11:30 PM
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Second that.
The 8 is, easy to tie , easy to check, and stronger.
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altelis
Nov 23, 2009, 2:02 AM
Post #43 of 177
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Urban_Cowboy wrote: acorneau wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: Interesting come-back...I've never seen anyone tie in with a bowline ON a bight, which makes me think you might be lying...besides the fact that you can't tie in to the "hard points" without doing it as a retrace/follow-through, which makes it a serious PITA. Retraced or not, it's still a bowline on a bight. If you want to give it another name then just let me know. But no, it's not a PITA at all, takes just as long as a Fig-8 follow-through. Never said it wasn't still the same knot. I'd like to see someone tie it just as quickly as a fig-8 follow through... I'd be willing to bet the majority of climbers don't know how to tie it normal, let alone as a retrace/follow through. I'm sure anyone could do it, given enough practice...I doubt anyone reading this thread can do it right now, including you.
seriously? you are willing to bet that its SLOWER to tie one knot rather than two? 
(This post was edited by altelis on Nov 23, 2009, 2:03 AM)
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Urban_Cowboy
Nov 23, 2009, 3:06 AM
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acorneau wrote: Urban_Cowboy wrote: I'd like to see someone tie it just as quickly as a fig-8 follow through...I doubt anyone reading this thread can do it right now, including you. Sorry, but for me climbing is not about "who can tie in the fastest". I tie the bowline on a bight because it's easy to tie (for me, at least) it's safe, and easy to untie after a whipper.
altelis wrote: seriously? you are willing to bet that its SLOWER to tie one knot rather than two?
Next...?
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jt512
Nov 23, 2009, 3:09 AM
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altelis wrote: I've heard of people using the bowline on a bight as a way to equalize two pieces when creating an anchor with the rope....any body know about this?
Lot's of people know about it.
Jay
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CrazyPetie
Nov 23, 2009, 4:03 AM
Post #48 of 177
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hahaha that is for some reason very funny to me... And he uses his other hand, wtf?
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sungam
Nov 23, 2009, 4:10 AM
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CrazyPetie wrote: hahaha that is for some reason very funny to me... And he uses his other hand, wtf?
Someone throws you a rope. You grab it with you left hand and use it to support your weight/stop you being washed downstream. You then use your other hand to tie a bowline so you can rest in it and be hauled in.
A handy trick if you're into doing dumbass shit, as the boyscouts tend to be.
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sungam
Nov 23, 2009, 4:15 AM
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Huh, upon watching it to the end I see his left arm becomes magically unweighted at the end and joins in the fun.
Amazingly our dear friends over at "expertvillage" have an even worse tutorial.
http://www.youtube.com/...R=1&feature=fvwp
These guys should just be banzed from the internetz already.
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