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yanqui
Nov 30, 2009, 2:54 PM
Post #101 of 794
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dingus wrote: Well I'm not just talking about the situations we find ourselves in on lead. I've soloed 5.8 'approaches' in approach shoes, for example. Or down climbed 'its not that bad' 50' inside 5.8 corner system, in fading light. Of 'let's just climb till one of us needs the rope' 3 pitches up a wilderness climb. And the things we do on 3rd and 4th class terrain, merde! There is something about showing off in front of a camera. And yet... just how DID we see those images of Honold or Croft or any of the other 'do it for yourself' soloists? Hmmmm. DMT
Yeah ... I've had some pretty gnarly descents in 3rd and 4th class terrain. One in your home area: the first (and only) time I climbed in Yosemite (spring 1981 - can you believe it?) I went to do Quarter Domes with a couple other guys. The idea was to do the approach (a hike followed by some gnarly 3rd/4th class friction slabs) and then bivouac at the base, The next day we were going to try and complete the route in one push. Well it rained buckets that night and the descent of the approach slabs the next morning was pretty epic. It's all a blur now, but I think it was some pretty hairy stuff. Part of the game, no?
(This post was edited by yanqui on Nov 30, 2009, 2:57 PM)
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cantbuymefriends
Nov 30, 2009, 3:05 PM
Post #102 of 794
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dingus wrote: There is something about showing off in front of a camera. And yet... just how DID we see those images of Honold or Croft or any of the other 'do it for yourself' soloists? Hmmmm. DMT
How did we, indeed?
 
coastal_climber wrote: You have to solo for yourself, by yourself. When you have to have to have the camera on you to do it, your doing it for the wrong reasons. USnavy wrote: What a tool. Anyone who free solos for spectators or a camera is not ready to be soloing. |
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marc801
Nov 30, 2009, 3:09 PM
Post #103 of 794
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yanqui wrote: For sure ... if you do enough long routes, alpine routes, that kind of thing, at some point you will find yourself in a situation where you have to keep climbing even though falling is not an option. While this, strictly speaking may not be "soloing" it does mean being able to push through difficulties even though a fall could mean death for both you and your partner. Some people have the stomach for this kind of climbing and some people don't. But it's part of the game for the alpinist.
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dlintz
Nov 30, 2009, 3:15 PM
Post #104 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: zakadamsgt wrote: agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds gUmBy He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.
He falls harder than me...just saying.
d.
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cracklover
Nov 30, 2009, 5:52 PM
Post #105 of 794
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First of all - CP - excellent video. You definitely have skillz there!
Second:
curt wrote: Are you and all of your friends assholes, or just idiots? I suppose I should not assume malice where simple stupidity will suffice. Curt
Well you've met one of his friends - the guy in the vid. As for whether CraziePetie is an asshole or just stupid, maybe this series of posts in which he introduced himself to me will help:
Start here and work your way down: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=2209283;#2209283
I find it interesting that the gist of CP's argument was that if you're a "real climber" you always just keep pushing forward because nothing really bad can happen.
So yeah, he and his friend seem to have similar attitudes.
GO
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cracklover
Nov 30, 2009, 6:01 PM
Post #106 of 794
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Based on this exchange we had back then:
cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile. GO I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless. Reckless? Maybe. Ignorant? Definitely. There are lots of times in trad climbing where falling is about as good an idea as falling while soloing. Good luck! GO
I guess his friend figured that when soloing "If I fall, I fall, and hopefully grabbing the rope will slow me down."
GO
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majid_sabet
Nov 30, 2009, 6:14 PM
Post #107 of 794
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This is a great video so if I was insurance company and wanted to know how stupid climbers are, all I had to do just watch this thing and cancel their policies the next day.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Nov 30, 2009, 6:14 PM)
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dingus
Nov 30, 2009, 6:28 PM
Post #108 of 794
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Well the rope very clearly saved his life so he wasn't free solo.
I really can't get over the foot-slappin though... the fall is bad enough but the Big Foot is really too much.
What's he got PLANKS nailed to his soles? WHAT?
DMT
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sungam
Nov 30, 2009, 6:44 PM
Post #109 of 794
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dingus wrote: Well the rope very clearly saved his life so he wasn't free solo. I really can't get over the foot-slappin though... the fall is bad enough but the Big Foot is really too much. What's he got PLANKS nailed to his soles? WHAT? DMT
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kriso9tails
Nov 30, 2009, 6:58 PM
Post #110 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: zakadamsgt wrote: agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds gUmBy He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.
He doesn't climb harder than I do though, so...
agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds
gUmBy
(does it feel more digestible now?)
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jakedatc
Nov 30, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #111 of 794
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Kid should return his shoes and take up needle point
socks.. inside oversized downturned shoes.. on vert jugs. 
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evanwish
Nov 30, 2009, 7:32 PM
Post #112 of 794
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coastal_climber wrote: You have to solo for yourself, by yourself. When you have to have to have the camera on you to do it, your doing it for the wrong reasons.
that reminds me of the michael reardon quote.. what was it?
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pylonhead
Nov 30, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #113 of 794
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bandycoot
Nov 30, 2009, 8:40 PM
Post #114 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: zakadamsgt wrote: agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds gUmBy He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying.
You don't know how to make a valid argument.... Just saying.
Edit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Nov 30, 2009, 8:56 PM)
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dingus
Nov 30, 2009, 9:05 PM
Post #115 of 794
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bandycoot wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: zakadamsgt wrote: agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds gUmBy He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying. You don't know how to make a valid argument.... Just saying. Edit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem
So you're saying the homo fell, right?
DMT
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dagibbs
Nov 30, 2009, 9:08 PM
Post #116 of 794
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dingus wrote: Well I'm not just talking about the situations we find ourselves in on lead. I've soloed 5.8 'approaches' in approach shoes, for example. Or down climbed 'its not that bad' 50' inside 5.8 corner system, in fading light. Of 'let's just climb till one of us needs the rope' 3 pitches up a wilderness climb. And the things we do on 3rd and 4th class terrain, merde! DMT
I was thinking the same thing. Ok, for me it isn't a 5.8 approach or down-climb, it would be a 5.0 or 5.1, but it has the same issues, the same thoughts.
I spent a couple weeks climbing in the Alps this summer. I found the approaches, and the down-climbs, far scarier than most of the actual climbing -- lead or follow -- because you didn't bother to rope up for it, you just did it.
But, it also happens other places -- down climbs at Bon Echo in Ontario can be nasty. I was there with on one of them that somebody had hospitalized themselves on the previous week -- and she was a more experienced climber than me.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Nov 30, 2009, 9:12 PM
Post #117 of 794
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I can't tell what is worse. This guy who abandons his protection when he starts to fall or your guy that decided he needed protection once he started to fall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RncnnVST-0
Both climbers lived because they had some sort of protection.
I don’t consider the OP’s post to be free soloing. He had a rope for protection. He was just using it improperly.
(This post was edited by JasonsDrivingForce on Nov 30, 2009, 9:13 PM)
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dudemanbu
Nov 30, 2009, 9:15 PM
Post #118 of 794
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dlintz wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: zakadamsgt wrote: agreed - watch his footwork....he is stomping all over the holds gUmBy He climbs harder then you buddy.. Just saying. He falls harder than me...just saying. d.
Hahahaha. I loled.
Ps. He doesn't climb that hard.. obviously. If he did, he wouldn't have fallen.
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imnotclever
Nov 30, 2009, 9:40 PM
Post #119 of 794
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: I can't tell what is worse. This guy who abandons his protection when he starts to fall or your guy that decided he needed protection once he started to fall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RncnnVST-0 Both climbers lived because they had some sort of protection. I don’t consider the OP’s post to be free soloing. He had a rope for protection. He was just using it improperly.
what the hell happened there? Looks like he may have a knot in the end of his rap. The one strand slips through the atc? Looks like he's falling slower than that?
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synrock
Nov 30, 2009, 9:48 PM
Post #120 of 794
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LineoFire wrote: wearing socks...
And what is the problem with socks? I've been free soloing wearing socks since the early 70's.
Socks rule! Better friction and a place to wipe your shoes.
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camhead
Nov 30, 2009, 10:01 PM
Post #121 of 794
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synrock wrote: LineoFire wrote: wearing socks... And what is the problem with socks? I've been free soloing wearing socks since the early 70's. Socks rule! Better friction and a place to wipe your shoes.
please try to keep up. you are probably an oldschool badass, so you can wear socks. we've been over this already, but since you're old, I'll let it pass.
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j_ung
Nov 30, 2009, 10:25 PM
Post #122 of 794
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Damn! Glad that guy's okay.
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hafilax
Nov 30, 2009, 11:00 PM
Post #123 of 794
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camhead wrote: I have long stated that people who wear socks with climbing shoes are either complete oldskool badasses, or complete gumbies. There is no middle ground in this. And the guy in the video was NOT an oldschool badass. bondageoffwidths.
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kriso9tails
Nov 30, 2009, 11:17 PM
Post #124 of 794
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Toque, socks in climbing shoes, manpris, cheap purple Mad Rocks (with holes in teh toes), eighteen spotters while two feet off the deck, wearing red, bouldering (gasp)...
... KAPOW! I could kill you all in a heartbeat with my flamboyant gumbiness.
edit: and I f'd up teh image link to boot!
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Nov 30, 2009, 11:18 PM)
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bill413
Nov 30, 2009, 11:41 PM
Post #125 of 794
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kriso9tails wrote: [img]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/149/340054466_1d8e2cd286_o.jpg[/img] Toque, socks in climbing shoes, manpris, cheap purple Mad Rocks (with holes in teh toes), eighteen spotters while two feet off the deck, wearing red, bouldering (gasp)... ... KAPOW! I could kill you all in a heartbeat with my flamboyant gumbiness. edit: and I f'd up teh image link to boot!
Ah - but that's bouldering 
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