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malcolm777b
Dec 15, 2009, 9:02 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jun 9, 2009
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currupt4130 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: I guess I misunderstood you and thought you had tied into two pieces with the rope end to retrieve them. Didn't see how that would work. I wasn't there so...... If you had a horn that was large enough to have trouble getting a sling off of it 60ft away, couldn't you have just put the middle of your rope over it and rapped? The horn was big enough on the edges to take a dynema sling around it, and I was scared rapping off it as it was. I don't think a rope would have held around the edges of this particular horn.
If the horn was bomber to rap off, you could have done a horn version of the Texas Rope Trick. You could wrap the sling such that there are two open ends at the bottom of the sling, then thread the rap to the 1/3 point as in the Texas Rope trick. Then take the other end (the one you're not rapping on) and tie it to one of the open ends of the sling. Rap, pull the rope through, then pull on the tied off end, and with luck (that the sling doesn't hang up on the horn), you get your sling back.
I don't see any reason you would do this though. Any trad climber that goes up a route without knowledge of an established rap station, reasonable walkoff, or other way down and doesn't have bail webbing or equivalent is making a big error IMO.
Edit: I guess you COULD use it as a bold statement of the Leave No Trace ethic....
(This post was edited by malcolm777b on Dec 15, 2009, 9:04 PM)
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Rudmin
Dec 15, 2009, 11:31 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Mar 29, 2009
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justroberto wrote: j_ung wrote: Boo-yah! The TTRT works! I might've used the unpatented j_ung-two-piece variation, though. Just sayin'.  [image]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9447/ttrtzy5.jpg[/image] Now, that's wacky. You could even tie one rope end to the master point and the other end to the triggers, allowing you to rap 1/2 the length of the rope instead of 1/3. Of course, you're going to lose a shitload of gear if it doesn't release, and down-aiding would likely be less of a shady clusterfuck, but hey! it'll be thrilling nonetheless.
Why not make it a full rope length fifi hook rappel?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ute5c2BVk
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 11:45 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
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malcolm777b wrote: I don't see any reason you would do this though. Any trad climber that goes up a route without knowledge of an established rap station, reasonable walkoff, or other way down and doesn't have bail webbing or equivalent is making a big error IMO.
The crag we were climbing at is a well traveled sport area. The section we were at is only climbable when the water in the lake is down at least 40 feet and is a bit away from the rest of the crag. There are established routes in the area and they are in the guide book as such. With the area being so popular we just figured there would be anchors and didn't bother to take webbing. I actually took my webbing out of my pack because I figured "Hey, it's summersville, everything is bolted here. Why wouldn't there be anchors?"
Well the section we were at had no anchors.
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Dec 15, 2009, 11:48 PM)
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currupt4130
Dec 15, 2009, 11:47 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
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justroberto wrote: j_ung wrote: Boo-yah! The TTRT works! I might've used the unpatented j_ung-two-piece variation, though. Just sayin'. [image]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9447/ttrtzy5.jpg[/image] Now, that's wacky. You could even tie one rope end to the master point and the other end to the triggers, allowing you to rap 1/2 the length of the rope instead of 1/3. Of course, you're going to lose a shitload of gear if it doesn't release, and down-aiding would likely be less of a shady clusterfuck, but hey! it'll be thrilling nonetheless.
Shit, you don't even need to use that setup to do a double rope come to think of it. Just tie one end to the cam and the other to the triggers. Of course, two cams is better than one.
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