|
waveknave
Jun 1, 2010, 8:09 PM
Post #1 of 46
(11388 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2010
Posts: 23
|
Hello climbers, Ever have endless restless nights dreaming about your nut tool borrowing a home in your leg or gut? I do too. Being new to trad, I was given the Wild Country Pro Key. http://www.supertopo.com/...Wild-Country-Pro-Key What is a safe way to carry these eight inch daggers while climbing? My tool has a mind of it's own and I think that one day I'll wake up wondering if I should just push it through or pull it out fast.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jun 1, 2010, 8:13 PM
Post #2 of 46
(11379 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
waveknave wrote: Hello climbers, Ever have endless restless nights dreaming about your nut tool borrowing a home in your leg or gut? I do too. Being new to trad, I was given the Wild Country Pro Key. http://www.supertopo.com/...Wild-Country-Pro-Key What is a safe way to carry these eight inch daggers while climbing? My tool has a mind of it's own and I think that one day I'll wake up wondering if I should just push it through or pull it out fast. Giggity.
|
|
|
|
|
desertwanderer81
Jun 1, 2010, 8:21 PM
Post #3 of 46
(11362 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
|
No kidding! I'm ready to go now!
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 1, 2010, 8:47 PM
Post #4 of 46
(11326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
A sling and a carabiner aren't enough now? Nut tools will always get in the way, no matter how they're attached. Get used to it.
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Jun 1, 2010, 8:53 PM
Post #5 of 46
(11313 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
whats that coil attachment rated to? can I use my nut tool for pro with that thing, or should I stick to a hunk of 6mm chord?
|
|
|
|
|
chadnsc
Jun 1, 2010, 8:58 PM
Post #6 of 46
(11303 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
|
The coil is body weight only.
|
|
|
|
|
waveknave
Jun 1, 2010, 8:58 PM
Post #7 of 46
(11303 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2010
Posts: 23
|
Heh. Okay, I'll bite. 0.05kN or 5 kg.
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
Jun 1, 2010, 9:14 PM
Post #8 of 46
(11284 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
Carry it in the crack of your ass. Seriously, if you're that worried about it either string it from a short tether so it can rotate or better yet leave it with your partner when you lead.
|
|
|
|
|
clews
Jun 1, 2010, 9:59 PM
Post #10 of 46
(11236 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 190
|
just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Jun 1, 2010, 10:04 PM
Post #11 of 46
(11227 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
patmay81 wrote: ...or should I stick to a hunk of 6mm chord? Chord? How about Gm7?
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jun 1, 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #12 of 46
(11200 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it.
|
|
|
|
|
clews
Jun 1, 2010, 10:31 PM
Post #13 of 46
(11176 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 190
|
camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. How is that any different than the rest of your gear catching on edges and throwing you off ballance? I don't know about where you climb but in my area that happens more than my nut tool catching
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Jun 1, 2010, 10:38 PM
Post #14 of 46
(11162 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
marc801 wrote: patmay81 wrote: ...or should I stick to a hunk of 6mm chord? Chord? How about Gm7? yeah,its an illiterate/typo fest for me today... so yeah, 6mm chord!
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
Jun 1, 2010, 10:39 PM
Post #15 of 46
(11159 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you The OP wasn't worried about the tip. He was concerned about being impaled. A nut tool could in theory turn into a dull knife in a fall if things lined up just right.
camhead wrote: gumbies carry nut tools on lead Sometimes they're quite useful on lead: cleaning dirt out of a crack; bootying a stuck piece before the second gets to it; or if I'm going to lead and then rap-clean I might need one. I often carry one just so that I don't have to remember to trade it back and forth.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 1, 2010, 10:44 PM
Post #16 of 46
(11140 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
camhead wrote: I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. Only time I carry one on lead is if I expect to screw up a nut placement. So, aid climbing, which brings us right back to where we started from.
|
|
|
|
|
desertwanderer81
Jun 2, 2010, 12:05 AM
Post #17 of 46
(11085 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
|
clews wrote: camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. How is that any different than the rest of your gear catching on edges and throwing you off ballance? I don't know about where you climb but in my area that happens more than my nut tool catching There are few things more unnerving than being caught by a cam when you're going all out for a move ;)
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 2, 2010, 12:20 AM
Post #18 of 46
(11071 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. I've hooked mine on one of the pull loops of my shoe. Took some real contortions to undo.
|
|
|
|
|
milesenoell
Jun 2, 2010, 12:45 AM
Post #19 of 46
(11054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
|
hafilax wrote: camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. I've hooked mine on one of the pull loops of my shoe. Took some real contortions to undo. That sounds like it could have been entertaining.
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 2, 2010, 12:51 AM
Post #20 of 46
(11046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
milesenoell wrote: hafilax wrote: camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. I've hooked mine on one of the pull loops of my shoe. Took some real contortions to undo. That sounds like it could have been entertaining. Based on the giggles from my belayer, it was.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 2, 2010, 3:07 AM
Post #21 of 46
(10995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
hafilax wrote: milesenoell wrote: That sounds like it could have been entertaining. Based on the giggles from my belayer, it was. I had the same thing happen, except it was half-way through the exit mantel in ground-fall territory. Turned that elegant mantel into an awkward beaching procedure. Not really the best way to end 40 feet of runout granite slab.
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jun 2, 2010, 5:22 AM
Post #22 of 46
(10921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
I have my nut tool on lead with me, my partner carries one too. On more than one occasion, I've used it while leading. Cleaning cleaning dirt from cracks or removing a badly set nut. I carry mine on the back of my rear gear loop and it stays out of the way there. I've clipped ti to my chalk bag binner before too, but it's not convenient if you want to use it.
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Jun 2, 2010, 11:58 AM
Post #23 of 46
(10826 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
I use one of those. On an older wild country nut tool. They are like $1 at the dollar store. And I carry it on lead.. One less thing to worry about having to grab from your partner when following. And I also use it from time to time to clean out cracks. Edited for grammar... blarg..
(This post was edited by kobaz on Jun 2, 2010, 11:59 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jun 2, 2010, 1:21 PM
Post #24 of 46
(10777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
Go to an army supplus store and get a knife sleave. One the you can strap to your leg then load your nut tool. Sounds like the perfert way!!
(This post was edited by ken21il on Jun 2, 2010, 1:23 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Jun 2, 2010, 1:22 PM
Post #25 of 46
(10773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
guangzhou wrote: I have my nut tool on lead with me, my partner carries one too. On more than one occasion, I've used it while leading. Cleaning cleaning dirt from cracks or removing a badly set nut. I carry mine on the back of my rear gear loop and it stays out of the way there. I've clipped ti to my chalk bag binner before too, but it's not convenient if you want to use it. +1 It also has the added benefit of being there when you forget to exchange it when switching leads.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jun 2, 2010, 1:29 PM
Post #26 of 46
(3358 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
waveknave wrote: Hello climbers, Ever have endless restless nights dreaming about your nut tool borrowing a home in your leg or gut? No, my nut tool can't get financing, so no worries there. DMT
|
|
|
|
|
mikebee
Jun 2, 2010, 2:16 PM
Post #27 of 46
(3343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 190
|
I'm another believer in the leader carrying their own nut too as well as the second. I find that having the nut tool handy as a leader is good for the reasons already mentioned, but also for pushing and pulling a sling through a thin, narrow thread.
|
|
|
|
|
mtselman
Jun 2, 2010, 2:33 PM
Post #28 of 46
(3338 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2002
Posts: 134
|
waveknave wrote: Hello climbers, Ever have endless restless nights dreaming about your nut tool borrowing a home in your leg or gut? I do too. Being new to trad, I was given the Wild Country Pro Key. http://www.supertopo.com/...Wild-Country-Pro-Key What is a safe way to carry these eight inch daggers while climbing? My tool has a mind of it's own and I think that one day I'll wake up wondering if I should just push it through or pull it out fast. Try ice climbing. After a season or so you will think that a nut tool is completely harmless.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jun 2, 2010, 2:39 PM
Post #29 of 46
(3336 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. I dunno about gumbies only (maybe it's more of a preference thing?), but I don't normally carry one when leading. It seems to me that on the rare occasions I needed one while leading, I didn't have juice to hang around screwing with it anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jun 2, 2010, 2:48 PM
Post #30 of 46
(3320 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
j_ung wrote: camhead wrote: clews wrote: just clip it to your harness gate out that keeps the tip facing away from your leg and it won't jab you Yeah, then the hook just catches on edges and throws you off balance in the middle of a crux. I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. I dunno about gumbies only (maybe it's more of a preference thing?), but I don't normally carry one when leading. It seems to me that on the rare occasions I needed one while leading, I didn't have juice to hang around screwing with it anyway. Yeah, I usually figure that if it's stuck, it's pro. Climb higher for a better placement, and above all, FTS!
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 2, 2010, 2:57 PM
Post #31 of 46
(3312 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
I've certainly used mine on lead as a garden hoe on the vertical dirt river known as the Chief.
|
|
|
|
|
summerprophet
Jun 2, 2010, 3:05 PM
Post #32 of 46
(3304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764
|
I dunno if I just climb differently than you guys, but my nut tool has rarely left my harness in the last 15 or so years. It has never shanked me, nor caught on anything more problematic than the bottom hem of my shorts. I have a pair of the old BD tools and clip them opposed, perhaps that helps. Why two? Any booty gear pirate will know why. I have bootied enough gear to provide my little brother with a pretty good starter rack.
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jun 3, 2010, 12:42 AM
Post #33 of 46
(3246 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
summerprophet wrote: I dunno if I just climb differently than you guys, but my nut tool has rarely left my harness in the last 15 or so years. It has never shanked me, nor caught on anything more problematic than the bottom hem of my shorts. I have a pair of the old BD tools and clip them opposed, perhaps that helps. Why two? Any booty gear pirate will know why. I have bootied enough gear to provide my little brother with a pretty good starter rack. Mine mostly gets used for gardening on first ascents. Even when cleaning nuts, I rarely have to sue mine.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jun 3, 2010, 1:00 AM
Post #34 of 46
(3239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
guangzhou wrote: Mine mostly gets used for gardening on first ascents. Even when cleaning nuts, I rarely have to sue mine. I've never sued a nut tool before, or even any kind of tool. What kind of lawyer do you have to retain for something like that?
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Jun 3, 2010, 1:26 AM
Post #35 of 46
(3231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
acorneau wrote: guangzhou wrote: Mine mostly gets used for gardening on first ascents. Even when cleaning nuts, I rarely have to sue mine. I've never sued a nut tool before, or even any kind of tool. What kind of lawyer do you have to retain for something like that? A tool of a lawyer.
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Jun 3, 2010, 1:33 AM
Post #36 of 46
(3227 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
acorneau wrote: guangzhou wrote: Mine mostly gets used for gardening on first ascents. Even when cleaning nuts, I rarely have to sue mine. I've never sued a nut tool before, or even any kind of tool. What kind of lawyer do you have to retain for something like that? One who is not afraid to get his hands dirty.
|
|
|
|
|
MS1
Jun 3, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #37 of 46
(3202 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 560
|
guangzhou wrote: acorneau wrote: guangzhou wrote: Mine mostly gets used for gardening on first ascents. Even when cleaning nuts, I rarely have to sue mine. I've never sued a nut tool before, or even any kind of tool. What kind of lawyer do you have to retain for something like that? One who is not afraid to get his hands dirty. Call the Hammer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFZigCwRhI8 He is up for it.
|
|
|
|
|
tedman
Jun 3, 2010, 7:37 PM
Post #38 of 46
(3159 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 237
|
got mine attached to one of those spring loaded zip lines for keys. No more fumbling with biners, just pull it out, when yer done just guide it back to the harness and let go. It will occasionally get snagged on something and the line will come taught at about foot level. easy enough to free it with a toe. The line is probly rated to all of 20lbs, but its been enough for me so far.
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 3, 2010, 10:31 PM
Post #39 of 46
(3121 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
tedman wrote: got mine attached to one of those spring loaded zip lines for keys. No more fumbling with biners, just pull it out, when yer done just guide it back to the harness and let go. It will occasionally get snagged on something and the line will come taught at about foot level. easy enough to free it with a toe. The line is probly rated to all of 20lbs, but its been enough for me so far. My partner has gone through a couple of those things. It's not convenient when they decide to explode.
|
|
|
|
|
chadnsc
Jun 4, 2010, 12:20 AM
Post #40 of 46
(3102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
|
hafilax wrote: tedman wrote: got mine attached to one of those spring loaded zip lines for keys. No more fumbling with biners, just pull it out, when yer done just guide it back to the harness and let go. It will occasionally get snagged on something and the line will come taught at about foot level. easy enough to free it with a toe. The line is probly rated to all of 20lbs, but its been enough for me so far. My partner has gone through a couple of those things. It's not convenient when they decide to explode. Is it a small boom or a big boom? Do you have to check your biners for micro-fractures after it blow'd up?
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Jun 4, 2010, 12:25 AM
Post #41 of 46
(3098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
chadnsc wrote: hafilax wrote: tedman wrote: got mine attached to one of those spring loaded zip lines for keys. No more fumbling with biners, just pull it out, when yer done just guide it back to the harness and let go. It will occasionally get snagged on something and the line will come taught at about foot level. easy enough to free it with a toe. The line is probly rated to all of 20lbs, but its been enough for me so far. My partner has gone through a couple of those things. It's not convenient when they decide to explode. Is it a small boom or a big boom? Do you have to check your biners for micro-fractures after it blow'd up? More like a sproing.
|
|
|
|
|
evanwish
Jun 6, 2010, 4:53 AM
Post #42 of 46
(3044 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
|
petsfed wrote: camhead wrote: I repeat: gumbies carry nut tools on lead. Have your second carry it. Only time I carry one on lead is if I expect to screw up a nut placement. So, aid climbing, which brings us right back to where we started from. Not to mention with some aid climbing you have a huge rack of hooks that catch EVERYTHING and pitons... Kind of puts the "problems" of a nut tool in perspective! Ha
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Jun 6, 2010, 4:20 PM
Post #43 of 46
(3004 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
If I can nearly strangle from my helmet straps, I suppose that you could certainly find a way to become impaled via nut tool. This thread gives me a great idea, though. Next time someone makes me upset at the crag, I am going to challenge them to a nut tool duel!
|
|
|
|
|
cush
Jun 6, 2010, 4:29 PM
Post #44 of 46
(3000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2008
Posts: 320
|
i've also seen a technique i really like. they put the nut tool on about 8 inches of elastic cord around their wrist. that way, with a flick of the wrist you can pop it back into your hand, and if you drop it you don't need to worry. you just need to make sure it's on a long enough cord that it doesn't become a hindrance when you're climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
rgold
Jun 7, 2010, 12:06 AM
Post #45 of 46
(2970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
|
As a new trad leader there are about a bazillion things you need to worry about a whole lot more than this.
|
|
|
|
|
qwert
Jun 10, 2010, 5:47 PM
Post #46 of 46
(2908 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
|
I kinda asked something similar, since DMM adviced against directly clipping a nuttool: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread I still carry my nut tool directly in a biner, and so far i am still alive. Also i am a gumby, since i carry it always ( i even leave it on the harness for sport climing ...) Also Also it indeed seems all harmless compared to iceclimbing. qwert
|
|
|
|
|
|